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Posted: 6/17/2015 10:57:07 PM EDT
Fruity Ghost
I get it that not everyone wants to get half-naked, sweaty and forge steel with your bare callous hands in some dark basement. That's ok and I want you to know that your inner gentle artiste can still make and shoot something very close to a real rifle. Odin. Start with an actual AR 100% receiver. It can be aluminum (#likealawnchair) or printed plastic. You may want to add your special touches like cover up the fire selector markings with clay (use non-sulfur clay) I would also highly suggest to put the trigger guard in place. You need a box, something that can hold its dimensions and could be taken apart. I usually use aluminum (#likeabeercan) box. But any enclosure can work, even one made from capitalist lego. Its benefit, once mold is created it may be assembled anywhere in the world. Dva. With your box assembled, put receiver in the box and pour silicone mold rubber. Depending on how well box fits around your receiver, it may take around 1.5-2 lbs of rubber that can set you back $20-$30. You want to get something that cures to ShoreA 30-40 hardness. I wrapped the mold box in grocery bag and tape to prevent accidental leakage. The rubber typically cures over night. Now we take mold from mold box. Somewhere inside, there is a receiver trapped in rubber. Pull rubber and touch it with sharp blade. There is no pressure required to cut. Now top is removed. and a side and another side … leaving the middle piece Now the magic begins as we put rubber pieces back one ... at time And the top piece get ripped another one … or actually the only one Now, the piece is like it was never cut. But aluminum (#likebeercan) receiver is not inside. What is inside? … Fruity Ghost! The box is rebuilt back again. It adds stiffabilty and prevent leakage. Tree. You now take two part urethane plastic and White House Pink pigment to match your range dress. Mix and pour and go eat celery flavored tofu for 10 min. I tried different plastics. The plastic will set you back anywhere $2-$3 (is tiny receiver!) Wait for plastic to cure. The receiver can be extradited in 5-15 min for most plastics, longer for others. Some plastics will take another week to hardened completely. When plastic hardens, take apart mold. You may see flashing. Is no trouble, it's very thin. Extract your receiver. Is complete. If mold was made good, all the threads will be perfect with 0 clean up. Pop that FCG in and go shooting bullets, almost like scale copy of the real rifle of most glorious Mosin. You may say “Dies ist nicht eine waffe des krieges!” … no, actually I'd say that, you would say something more like “tre bon! Magnifique! Garçon m'a apporter un autre bagguette et plus de fromage! If you think that plastic receivers are waste of time consider that worm hearts organizing gun buy backs pay $50-$200 for any firearm. Since we got a fully bonified receiver (regulated by ATF and everything) you could be making a grand / hour easy. Starving artists will starve no more! In fact, using just one mold, you can easily crank out 5 receivers/hour without breaking sweat or fingernail. That's over 100 receivers in 24h. Having a couple of molds help. The toughest choice are the colors and shades to use. Is this receiver is the strongerest of all, will it stand up to torture tests? Who cares, f-it, just pull another one out the bucket. Aluminum (#likealawnchair) is stronger and steel stronger still, but all part of gun will wear off some time. Here is the rifle that shot 300 rounds of 556. This is just plain, cheap plastic, no reinforcement of any kind. I use drop-in FCG module. The receiver failed on 308th round by Michael The AR Slayer shooting it with one hand (#tacticalsniper) The softer receivers do have a problem of hole egging. Hammer and trigger holes will drift apart and after 100-150 rounds your rifle may fire more than a round … if you get my drift. To keep the holes together, you can reinforce them with steel or just get a drop-in trigger that comes with it's own little steel box … or just junk the receiver and make a dozen more. One big advantage of cast over printed receivers is that mold can easily be used to include any type of reinforcement of any type. Steel or kevlar or gold sparkles (#notworkingwell) IANAL but those who are ANAL reviewed BATFE 2015-1 ruling saying that people who manufacture drill bits that can used in guns-smithing are technically making guns. This mold, how BATFE would feel about it? Idk, I'm not good with feels. This mold is not a firearm, but if you can mix whatever AR shooters drink drink, you can make your own receiver in 10min in every shade of your shoes. How this shit compares to 3D printing?
Of course some of you will tempt me to bitch slap them, saying: "yeah, but I like metal so much more" ... my fruity comrades, you can use this mold to cast your AR receiver in any metal from Aluminum (#likelawnchair) to staineless steel. How? ... that's a topic for another post, meanwhile all this vodka is not going to drink itself. |
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Nice. A guy I know (owner of Metrix:Create Space) made molds and cast a shitload of the plastic parts for 3D printers. He sold tons of them. People don't realize how much cheaper and faster casting is than printing.
It has plenty of other advantages, as your rainbow of win shows. Very well done. |
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Wow thats badass actually. And just watch, this thread will be the reason why 0bama shuts down the Internet citing ITAR.
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I'm not good with feels either, but this bread makes me feel happy.
Keep being awesome, OP. |
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I could create the skittles rainbow... next step trying to reload with plastic cast bullets ...awesome post Boris!!
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Quoted: Is there a way you can pour some type of metal in it? View Quote |
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Is there a way you can pour some type of metal in it? why do that? use Wood's metal |
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Great post.
You have just violated zeros new anti firearm speech act. And itar. Pepper your angus. No, not really. Great post. Txl |
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Honestly surprised that no one has accomplished something like this until now. Wait until the libs get a load of this thread |
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Boris, you are awesome, your website is awesome, your posts on NES are awesome, it is awesome to see you posting on ARF.
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I wouldn't want to shoot one, but if the People's Republic of Omaha ever decides to do gun buybacks in their quest to become more like the bastard lovechild of Chicago and New York City, I'd definitely give this a try to make some scary "assault rifle" receivers I can sell for make benefit glorious wealth of my wallet.
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How does the "inside" part of the mold stay in place when the receiver is removed? It seems like it would move around, making the inside of the new molded receiver not line up correctly? Looks like it is working for you, but it's hard to see how it all goes back together without "rattling aound" a bit. I guess I'll have to try it out to see...
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Yes, at first glance it does look like the new ITAR regs would make posts like this a warrant for terrorism. Really.
It does very much go to how much easier it is to make a lower by traditional fabrication than 3D. The bolt together plate metal lowers are way cheaper to make or even buy compared to 3D. Now I can say I remember reading it on the internet before freedom of speech required the approval of a .Gov firearms censor. We don't want those Afghan gunsmiths to learn anything that would improve their skill level making AK's or Lee Enfields from scratch. |
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The buyback plan is quite interesting. I wonder what they'd do if you showed up with a sack full of these...
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Seems like it would be easy to reinforce the buffer tube area -- just build up the actual lower with more clay before making the mold. Maybe make an integrated stock, something without a pistol grip for the ban states.
I guess you could also make a wax lower and then do investment casting. |
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Do you have to unscrew the mold from the buffer tube area or does it just pull out without damaging the mold (male) threads?
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“tre bon! Magnifique! Garçon m'a apporter un autre bagguette et plus de fromage! View Quote |
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THIS IS THE BEST POST I'VE SEEN SINCE MOLON LEFT!
I tried this years ago with a sand mold and cast aluminum. Worked out but my forge skills are weak. This is fantastic. I want to try this with a Cav lower for the integrated stock. |
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Quoted: THIS IS THE BEST POST I'VE SEEN SINCE MOLON LEFT!
I tried this years ago with a sand mold and cast aluminum. Worked out but my forge skills are weak. This is fantastic. I want to try this with a Cav lower for the integrated stock. View Quote Might have to clean out the buffer tube a bit. |
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Is there a way you can pour some type of metal in it? I've been waiting for someone to do that in order to make a badass steampunk rifle. |
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Nice. A guy I know (owner of Metrix:Create Space) made molds and cast a shitload of the plastic parts for 3D printers. He sold tons of them. People don't realize how much cheaper and faster casting is than printing. It has plenty of other advantages, as your rainbow of win shows. Very well done. View Quote I still say the best use of a 3D printer in gun making is producing casting patterns. A soda can aluminum casting may not be Tier 1, but it will lasst a lot longer than the plastic ones shown. Nor am I disparaging his fine work. |
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The buyback plan is quite interesting. I wonder what they'd do if you showed up with a sack full of these... View Quote "I bought a bunch of these when I was a crazy prepper type, but with the help of therapy and meds I now self identify as a vegan progressive lesbian. I need to trade these in to fund my upcoming sex change operation." |
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"I bought a bunch of these when I was a crazy prepper type, but with the help of therapy and meds I now self identify as a vegan progressive lesbian. I need to trade these in to fund my upcoming sex change operation." View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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The buyback plan is quite interesting. I wonder what they'd do if you showed up with a sack full of these... "I bought a bunch of these when I was a crazy prepper type, but with the help of therapy and meds I now self identify as a vegan progressive lesbian. I need to trade these in to fund my upcoming sex change operation." |
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Quoted: "I bought a bunch of these when I was a crazy prepper type, but with the help of therapy and meds I now self identify as a vegan progressive lesbian. I need to trade these in to fund my upcoming sex change operation." View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: The buyback plan is quite interesting. I wonder what they'd do if you showed up with a sack full of these... "I bought a bunch of these when I was a crazy prepper type, but with the help of therapy and meds I now self identify as a vegan progressive lesbian. I need to trade these in to fund my upcoming sex change operation." Some of the buybacks I've gone to have had a limit as to how much you can get total regardless of how many guns you turn in. You usually can walk away with at least $200. My best trip I made about $5000. The next buyback though they put a $500 limit @ $50 per gun instead of $100 per gun with no limit. I saw it as a win-win. I get paid more than scrap value for broken/un-repairable guns and take money away from their anti-gun campaign, and they get their warm fuzzy that they're furthering their agenda. |
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Ooops. Meant to be an IM.
Congratulations to Boris. I will say that the 3-D printing folks have already pretty much solved the buffer tube boss cracking problem by making the boss a square block. It's limited in height by the charging handle, but has enough meat to prevent their lowers from cracking. You can modify the mold by cutting out the block directly, you can pad the lower with casting clay before making the mold, or you could print a lower and cast that. Inshallah Boris will show us how to cast a Glock frame next. |
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I will say that the 3-D printing folks have already pretty much solved the buffer tube boss cracking problem by making the boss a square block. It's limited in height by the charging handle, but has enough meat to prevent their lowers from cracking. View Quote Pictures? I'm having a hard time visualizing this. |
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