Thanks again to everyone for all the replies in my first thread.

As I said previously, I have never owned or even shot an AR 15 but am looking to build one. I have decided to go with the popular opinion of everyone that replied to my first thread as far as caliber goes, I will be staying with the 5.56 cartridge.

That being said, I am looking to build a high quality, high accuracy rifle. Primarily for recreation, 100 yards and under, but would like to be able to shoot somewhat accurately up to 200-300 yards if possible. From what I've read its best to start by choosing an upper, then get a matching lower receiver to go with it. Can anyone give me a list of recommendations of some of the top 5 or 10 brands for high quality and accuracy? That being said, I know that a good barrel and bolt carrier group will have to accompany the upper and lower in order to keep the quality and accuracy I'm looking for so recommendations as to upper, lower, barrel and bolt carrier group combinations are more than welcome.

Just looking for a place to start with my build. Thanks again for all the advice.

http://www.aimsurplus.com/product.aspx?item=F1ANRSET&name=Anderson+Manufacturing+AM15+Multi.+Cal.+Receiver+Set&groupid=577   Heres a great start for a great price. So by high quality, does that mean high budget?
http://www.aimsurplus.com/product.aspx?item=F1CMTUHP15ASET&name=CMT+UHP15A+AMBI+Billet+Multi.+Cal.+AR+Receiver+Set&groupid=1348&fprdct=1
http://www.aimsurplus.com/product.aspx?item=F1BAD556LWSET&name=Battle+Arms+Development+Lightweight+Billet+Receiver+Set&groupid=577





http://www.aimsurplus.com/product.aspx?item=F1RA107MOD3&name=Rainier+Arms+UltraMatch+Billet+Upper+%26+Ambi+Lower+Combo+Set+-+MOD+3&groupid=577
IF you have a budget, what is it $800, $1,000, $1,200? This will better help people trying to help you.
 

Thanks. As far as budget goes, I don't want to be frivolous but I don't necessarily have a budget either. In a nutshell, I don't mind spending the money if its justified in performance and quality.

Me personally, I would go with this http://www.aimsurplus.com/product.aspx?item=F1ANRSET&name=Anderson+Manufacturing+AM15+Multi.+Cal.+Receiver+Set&groupid=577 And then get yourself a great trigger & barrel.



 

^I agree with this suggestion. a matched upper and lower makes for a solid base with the least amount of slop between the upper and lower. they are made to fit together with tight tolerances.
And I have this drop in single stage 3 lb trigger in my rifle and LOVE it. highly recommend it. http://www.shop.doasales.net/OUTBREAK-ORDNANCE-3LB-DROP-IN-TRIGGER-ASSEMBLY-OBO-3-DEALER.htm

also, for better accuracy, get a free float barrel/hand guard. tons of options to choose from, just pick one you like the style of

You can buy an Aero Gen 2 lower with tension screw (takes slop out when tightened) and a assembled Aero upper from Schuyler for $120 plus shipping and transfer fee.  Aero is what I consider a top tier manufacture for uppers and lowers.  Buy a decent BCG (there are quite a few good ones for $95-$160, get a good trigger ($125-$250) and a good barrel ($150-$300).  Buy everything else (buffer tube kit, LPK minus trigger, buttstock and grip - $150-$200 for everything listed here).  Buy your favorite looking rail, $100-$250. Spend the rest on sights, an RDS or scope, $70-$3000.  You have mentioned accuracy numerous times, that is the reason I listed the upper end cost for scopes.  I see no reason to buy a $500 barrel if you're going to toss a $200 scope on it.

This. My aeros are excellent fit and finish. And I was able to get them for the price of the Andersons. Just watch for sales. Think I got mine from Brownells.

Before I make a recommendation I should ask what is accurate to you. It's not hard to build a rifle capable of sub M.O.A. (1 MOA = 1" @ 100yards) with match ammo but are you capable? No offense you might be the best marksman in your state..... I don't know but keep in mind that a gun is only as accurate as the primate pulling the trigger.  That said if you want a great matched set I would go mega arms all day.  They are km now for their precision and quality. Especially in their sets.

Next are you doing a fixed rifle stock or collapsible stock? Only ask because you said RIFLE before and to many of us that indicates rifle gas and receiver extension.  

Then comes barrel selection.  Barrel length your interested in using?  Do you plan on using this firearm for anything other than punching paper? SHTF zombie land? Hunting? Ect. This is important to know as it will help make barrel length suggestions.  2700fps is the magic # for yaw and fragmentation of 5.56. Do you need that? Paper no tissue yes.

Are you going to handload or buy? What weight bullet do you plan on shooting? (helps suggest twist rate).

Before I overwhelm you I will let you answer and then give a few suggestions.

Thanks to everyone for your replies.

CaptainOverkill, thanks for the info, I have been looking at Mega Arms from the beginning, along with Spikes Tactical.

For accuracy, I just want to build it as accurate as I can, if I can accomplish 1 MOA without having a very long and heavy gun I would like to do so. As for my capability in shooting and hand loading, I would rate myself as a 6 out of 10. I have done a lot of loading for rifle calibers in 220 Swift, 30-06 and .270 while playing with benchrest shooting using my Ruger M77 220 Swift at and under 500 yards. I'm certainly not competition ready but would like to build a rifle that exceeds my ability and grow into it.

I think I want a collapsible stock. My overall goal is to have a fairly small and lightweight gun built with as high an accuracy capability as possible. Not looking to go super short or anything, just don't want to have a 30" long sniper rifle.

As for use, I will mainly be punching paper, but will also be taking some tactical training classes with this gun at some point (this brings up a small concern with using billet upper and lowers as I have read that they don't hold up to being banged around as well). It will also be kept handy for home defense or if/when the SHTF. That said, I definitely want to be carrying sufficient velocities for the purposes stated above.

For ammo, I will be hand loading, probably buying some here and there, but primarily hand loading. Do you have a recommendation for bullitt weight based on the info I've given? I want it to be effective for self defense or SHTF purposes out to at least 100 yards, but would like it to be good for high accuracy target shooting as well if possible.

Hope that is enough info to get you started, thanks again for to everyone for taking the time to read and reply to my posts. As I'm sure you can tell, I'm far from educated on this type of weapon but am trying to get involved and learn as much as i can. Thanks!

I just finished my 1st ar build and have never owned one before either. I went with a complete Black Rain Billet lower with a Crosshill Technologies XSR-15 side charging billet upper ( with Nib BCG & bolt)
after that and months of reading I got a 18" Black Hole Weaponry Barrel, and this polygonal rifling is amazing!, I shot it for the 1st time yesterday and easily shot sub moa 3 shot groups that could be covered with a quarter. and this is my 1st. rifle (always been a pistol guy). this accurate shooting was definitely the Barrel and not my skills
I think I had the easiest 1st. build ever, Got a complete Black Rain Lower ( nothing to build)
side charging upper ( again no parts to install, as there is no forward assist or charging handle)
All I really did was attached the barrel, installed roll pin in gas block / tube assembly and attached it to barrel and then mounted free float hand guard.
All those AR tools I got before starting didn't get any use until the very end
There is a wealth of good info on here to read, and the guys on the Black Hole Weaponry forum can answer any barrel questions (or anything else) you might have.
It took me 7 months to complete with my limited budget, But I got what I wanted to get and resisted the temptation of cheaper parts to finish build sooner, and now glad I did
I'd post some pics, if I could figure out how?
Keep us posted with your progress, can't wait to see it

Thanks BuhBang, I will definitely get some pictures uploaded once I'm finished, hopefully within the next couple months.

I am strongly considering starting with a pre-assembled upper and lower from Mega Arms, I assume I can pick my upper and lower and have them assemble and send to me? Does anyone know?

Anyone have an opinion as to which Mega upper would be the best choice for maximum precision? Also, if this gun will be beat and banged around a little, do I need to stick with forged or will billet be ok? Thanks.

Mega Ambi upper/Lower Set

As for barrel 16" 1:7 twist will give you adequate velocity out to about 150yds with 55gr and can comfortably handle weights up to 62gr.  18" will stretch that a bit further.  Keep in mind that Barrel Length = Velocity not accuracy.  I would suggest a 16" midlength or 18" rifle length gas system.  Look at Palmetto State CHF Barrels, WMD Guns Barrels, Daniel Defense CHF Barrels and BCM CHF Barrels and Mega Barrels.  All of these are very well made for their respective price points and will provide 1moa accuracy or better without breaking the bank.

I will post more later. Just had to go to work.

OP,
Great thread....I am coming from a similar background with guns (primarily hunting and precision rifles) with very similar goals for my first AR build.  The only difference is I started shooting suppressed years ago and this build will be no different.  I've been wondering the same thing as you about billets. I am looking forward to seeing your final build and how it performs.

Billet vs Forged has little to do with Accuracy or Durability but mostly fit/finish.  With that said some manufacturers have a reputation for quality and precision of their receivers such as MEGA.  Things like how square the threads and axis of bore are down the length of the upper, fit of upper to lower ect.  Sometimes having a billet can have unforeseen issues like the Spikes Hellbreaker Lower not accepting Milspec Bolt Release (The mag follower does not contact the finger of the bolt release to give hold open on last shot).  How do I know?  I have one.....

Having a MEGA or other high reputation SET will give you then best chance for great fit and finish and accuracy.  The barrel will fit tighter and straighter there will be less to no rattle or wobble between upper and lower, ect.

As for Barrel:

Materials Recommended:  
If you want stainless - 416R.  This is different from regular 416, 416R is a proprietary steel produced by Crucible specifically designed for rifle barrels. The main difference between 416R and standard 416 stainless steels is the addition of Molybdenum and a lower sulfur content than 416 stainless steel.
4150 (Not the same as 4140)
4150CrMov My preferred in Cold Hammer Forged (CHF) for best durability assuming all other factors such as rate of fire, volume of round count and maintenance are equal.  This steel allows for an additional 100+ degrees of operating temperature before barrel perforation.  This is the barrel steel used in Mil-Spec MIL-B-1159E and will have the best high round count performance and life.

My Barrel Twist by Grain Weight Recommended Range - This comes down to a general range where it will stablilize the round with out over stabilization causing the round to possible break apart or loose accuracy.  Again these are MY general "recommendations" derived from first hand use and countless reading of artilcles over the past several years.
Twist rate   /   Bullet weight stabilization
1/7   /      55-85 grains
1/8   /      50-75 grains
1/9   /      45-65 grains

Gas Systems:
I generally recommend as long as you can get while still having reliability.  In cases like 300BLK (Especially Subs) a shorter system is needed due to the lack of back pressure.  Please keep in mind that the original DI system of the M-16 was a rifle length on a long barrel.  This allowed for chamber pressure to drop low enough for the bolt lugs to comfortably release and still allow enough dwell time for the cycle of operation to complete.  As we went to shorter barrels the "Carbine Gas" length was designed to make the weapon function with a trade off of this cycle being far more violent and under higher chamber pressure.  For this reason and the reason of you looking for Yaw/Fragmentation at 100+ yards I suggest a 16" mid-length or 18" rifle length gas system.

Receiver Extension:
First off I highly recommend what ever system you get to buy Chrome Silicon Buffer Spring from Sprinco.  They are a cheep investment to the log term durability and reliability of your AR.  THEY WILL PAY FOR THEMSELVES IN THE LIFE OF YOUR GUN and will very likely out last your AR.
My personal preference is the Vltor A5 system but is not required.  Just make sure to get a high quality mil spec receiver extension.  Please note that Mil-Spec Dimension and Mil-Spec are not the same thing.  Milspec is 7075T6 Aluminum Not the softer 6061.  To make it simple I would just choose from Bravo Company (BCM, V7 Weapon Systems or Vltor if you want a short list.  But again I really like the Vltor A5 as it softens recoil and aids in reliability by creating more forward pressure on a closed bold reducing the likelihood of "Bolt Bounce"

Well that should get you started.  Let me know if you need any other assistance.  I can tell you that I am a MAJOR OCD FREAK and research a ton before I do anything.  Always happy to pass on what I have learned.

CaptainOverkill,



   Great post, thanks for sharing!



 

My pleasure. Just glad I can help

I don't want to hijack the OPs thread so I will keep this short and simple....First, thank you for the lengthy reply.  You provided a ton of useful info in your response.  I have a tentative build list put together already, but I have to do a lot more research before I will be ready to pull the trigger (pun intended) on my build.  It's good to hear you are a fan of the Vltor A5.  That was on my list.  I have read the theory as to why they are superior, but it is nice to hear that system works well in there real world.  I do have one question and since it is on topic with the OP's thread, what are your (or anyone) thought's on SS 410?  I have read that SS 410 is supposed to reduce corrosion compared to SS 416, but I haven't found any info to confirm or deny that claim.  Again, thanks for the info.

Short answer is 410 can be a great steel if done correctly very similar to 416R. As for corrosion resistance I would ask if you live near the ocean. If not I would not worry about it. Just keep your gun clean and lubed.

No.

I really appreciate all the lengthy responses, glad to see I'm not the only one benefiting from them. The AR 15 world and attempting to build one when I'm just getting started in learning about them was getting more and more overwhelming, but these responses have greatly reduced my anxiety.

I'm feeling more and more confident that I will utilize MEGA for my upper and lower and possibly barrel as well, and am currently leaning toward the 18" barrel, would you recommend a 1:8 twist for this length or could I go with 1:7 twist and have the ability to shoot heaver bullits? Does anyone see why this will create too long a rifle to use in home defense and tactical gun fight training scenarios?

Also, I am located about 30 miles north of Bowling Green, KY and work in Bowling Green. Does anyone know of a good gun smith in this area that I could use to assist in assembly for this build? I would like to have someone in person to help assemble and get a list of all of the random parts that will be required that I won't think of. What does everyone else do in this situation, do you all assemble everything yourselves for the most part?

Thanks again to everyone that took time to respond, more opinions are welcome.

For shooting a .223 at ~100 yds a $100 scope will preform the same as a $500 or $1000 scope.  

My $80-100 Bushnell Banner Dusk & Dawn on my Remington 700 30-06 has seen upwards of 1000 rounds and has yet to loose zero and shoots about .5 MOA at 100yds and about 1MOA out to 300, though i suspect thats probably more shooter lacking than rifle or scope.  With each range session being 60+ rounds.

If you plan on doing competitions or long rang shooting you should probably look at more expensive scopes, but for 100yd paper punching and plinking there is no reason to spend that kind of money on a scope if you don't need to or have the spare cash around.