Been a long time since I have been in the tech forums

I wanna do a 80% lower but I hear bad things about drill press chucks flying off while cutting.

What's everyone using to finish a lower?

If by drill press/mill you mean something like an X2 clone you can easily pop out the chuck arbor and replace it with proper collets and a draw-bar for holding end mills.

I am thinking standard drill press that you would find in any random shop. Do they make a drill press that will take a side load like that? I always thought that was a nono

They are no longer made...The best you will find right now is something like this (below)...Nearly all are currently Imported from China...

http://www.zoro.com/dayton-milldrill-14-in-34hp-110v-115-2600-sp-2lkp8/i/G1545512/?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google_Shopping_Feed&gclid=CO_q-5T328UCFdURHwod3JsAVQ&gclsrc=aw.ds

You can find smaller/cheaper bench top versions as well, but you will sacrifice some accuracy and quality most of the time...

Good luck.

X2 clones are common and about 1/3 the cost of that. You'll need to ditch the chuck for collets, and buy a machinist vice and hold-down set.
This is about the smallest and cheapest machine I'd use for the job.

http://t.harborfreight.com/two-speed-variable-bench-mill-drill-machine-44991.html

You can do it with a regular drill press. If you can get the chuck off, loctite it back on and give it a day to dry. Side load means keep the spindle as unextended as possible, go very slow and take light cuts. Best to plunge mill/drill out as much as possible before you do finish cuts. You need a good vise, not HF. It helps if you have experience on a mill so you know hat to expect and what happens when you climb mill.

The least expensive way to get those 80% lowers done would likely be to use a drill press for hogging out the FCP and drilling the pin holes and
selector hole...Then, use something like a 80% arms easy jig with a router for the final finish cuts...Good luck.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SiHdV5slQps

http://www.homedepot.com/p/WEN-8-in-5-Speed-Drill-Press-4208/204853910

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Delta-4-in-Quick-Release-Drill-Press-Vise-20-622/205112067

My jig doesn't come with drill bits. Any advice on what I should be looking for when I go to Lowes? It's a Daytona Tactical jig if it makes a difference. Looks like I need 5/32, 5/8, 3/8 drill bits plus end mills.

What do the collets do that a Jacobs chuck won't?

I have a Dayton floor drill press.  Tried to do a little milling and my chuck keeps coming loose from the spindle.  Chuck is held on by press fit taper.  Seems the collet holder would be held on the same way, and that seems to be the weak link for me (not the bit coming loose from the chuck).

Found These on Grainger, is that what is needed for milling on a press?

I do have a milling table (similar to this) but mostly use it to more accurately line up my press for regular drilling.  Any sideways force (with milling bits) seems to knock the chuck loose

I'd love to be able to do some milling.

Just try to buy the best quality bits and end mills you can afford (e.g., avoid made in China versions) It makes a difference
when you what accurate sized holes for your FCG (fire control group) and safety selector, etc. Buy American when possible...


Drill Bits:

5/32" for your trigger and hammer holes.

5/16" for your trigger slot or 1/4" bit if you plan to
clean up/finish the the trigger slot with a 2 or 3 flute
5/16" end mill.

3/8" for your safety selector hole.


End Mills: (2 or 3 flute is fine/recommended for cutting aluminium, and you
will be able to make light plunge cuts).

1/2" end mill for your rear lug pocket.

3/8" or 7/16" end mill for your fire control pocket (FCP) with a 1.250" LOC (length of cut)
or longer (typically up to 1.500" is fine).

5/16" for your trigger slot.


Again, this may vary somewhat depending on your drill jig manufacturer, It is always a good Idea to contact the
jig manufacturer if your unsure or go by their recommendations for their jig...

Some 80% lowers already have the rear lug pocket milled out and will save you much time and hassle when completing
your lower especially when doing most of your work on a drill press...

Good luck.

I used 80%arms easy jig.
Tools were a hand drill and $100 1/4" laminate router.
The finish product was acceptable in quality and functioned just fine.

The difference is that collets are held in place by a threaded draw bar. there is a taper present, but it is only used to close the collet tight to the cutter.

I've done one on a drill press with an x-y vice.  It works.  The inside isn't very pretty but functions just fine.

mill - about 450 dollars, tooling, mill upgrades,  measuring devices, vices, clamps, and other misc tools, about 1500.00 dollars...

A drill press is just simply not designed to cut latterly. Not just the chuck, but the spindle/quill as well. No amount of loctite or any other type of  "mechanic in a can"  is going to change that. You may succeed in gluing the chuck in, but it will do nothing to reduce the chattering and resulting poor finish.
If you do not have access to a mill, your best alternative is a router based jig like the modulus. There is a lengthy review on it here in this BIY section

If you want to finish an 80% on a drill press, you don't have to spend a lot of money.

Yes, drill presses aren't meant for a side load to be applied but just get a $60+/- drill press from Harbor Freight or Craigslist.

And you will get some chatter (possibly a lot at times) in the machining however you can get a dremel and a carbide bit set off ebay to clean it up a bit.

Then once you finish it with duracoat, ceracoat, alumahyde, gunkote, etc. it'll hardly be noticeable.

If you have a nice router though, I'd suggest going with the 80% arms easy jig.  It'll save you a ton of time dicking around trying to hog out the fire control pocket.

I just finished one using an 8" drill press from harbor freight. Definitely had to go slow because the but wanted to keep walking, but I got it done. I would recommend a different one, maybe the 10" or the Ryobi from Home Depot seemed pretty solid.