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Posted: 3/31/2015 4:25:35 PM EDT
[#1]
If you dont want to go through the hassle of sending it back to PSA I would buy a 1/4-28 tap and chase the threads. I do this on all my lowers to avoid your very problem as well as to run the threads all the way into the fire control pocket. This allows me to install a short grub screw to adjust the trigger forward travel.
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Posted: 3/31/2015 4:30:51 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If you dont want to go through the hassle of sending it back to PSA I would buy a 1/4-28 tap and chase the threads. I do this on all my lowers to avoid your very problem as well as to run the threads all the way into the fire control pocket. This allows me to install a short grub screw to adjust the trigger forward travel. This is the correct way.... I just torqued down on a grade 8 screw. 
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Posted: 3/31/2015 5:02:38 PM EDT
[#3]
alrighty then, bought them on amazon, will give it a shot once it comes in. and on my next build, you're suggesting i run the tap through prior to even attempting to tighten down correct? thanks a bunch
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Posted: 3/31/2015 5:07:54 PM EDT
[#4]
Don't forget to lube that tap.
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Posted: 3/31/2015 6:15:02 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Don't forget to lube that tap. And to go slow and work it back and forth when resistance is felt. Last thing you want to do is snap that tap in the hole. |
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Posted: 3/31/2015 6:30:15 PM EDT
[#6]
A good "lube" for taps on aluminum is Crisco type lard cooking grease. Fill the gaps of the tap and the pieces that come off while making threads will stay in the lard instead of galling everything up.
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Posted: 3/31/2015 6:37:23 PM EDT
[#7]
As the other posters said, lube and back and forth a bunch. If you break it all is not lost, it just becomes a major pain. It involves small carbide endmills and a mill though. There's also the option of using a helicoil if the threads are stripped too bad to save.
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Posted: 3/31/2015 10:00:30 PM EDT
[#8]
If all fails you could just go AK on it and drill out the threads, countersink it a little from the top, and use a nut to keep the screw in.
*I have never done this, but it could work if things go really bad* |
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Posted: 4/1/2015 12:19:29 AM EDT
[#9]
I had the exact same issue with a psa blem lower last year...a cheap tap some wd40 and a few minutes and it was good to go
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Posted: 4/1/2015 5:06:49 AM EDT
[#10]
I just assembled two PSA Blen Lowers with no issues, tapping the hole is the best way to go. I modified my lowers to use these : http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006O72M4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for the take down detent hole in the rear of the receiver. Did all three of my lowers(2 new one already prebuilt) I now have three screws left for the next builds!
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Posted: 4/1/2015 8:27:02 AM EDT
[#11]
Some lowers don't have the screw hole tapped all the way. A 1/4-28 tap and a shot of WD-40 will fix that.
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Posted: 4/1/2015 10:03:09 AM EDT
[#12]
If all fails you could just go AK on it and drill out the threads, countersink it a little from the top, and use a nut to keep the screw in. That would be more work than simply tapping to a slightly larger size, like M7-1.0 |
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Posted: 4/1/2015 6:53:07 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That would be more work than simply tapping to a slightly larger size, like M7-1.0 Quote HistoryQuoted:
If all fails you could just go AK on it and drill out the threads, countersink it a little from the top, and use a nut to keep the screw in. That would be more work than simply tapping to a slightly larger size, like M7-1.0 Suggesting a bastard size metric thread on an American gun, how could you? OP, there are many many ways to go about fixing it, even if you screw something up. |
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Posted: 4/7/2015 2:31:42 PM EDT
[#14]
got the tap in yesterday night, spent my lunch re-tapping the hole. fits perfectly now. I went ahead and did my 2nd build's receiver before even trying to screw, and i'm glad i did, was able to bring out a lot of shavings.
on a slightly different note though, I was installing the forward breakdown pin w/ spring and detent; I did get them in, but not before launching them into the air and searching my living room for 5 minutes. Just for future reference is there a "good" way to complete this step? I put the spring in, put detent on top, held down with razor blade, then slid takedown pin on top. only took me 2 tries but hindsight would like to avoid scouring the floor for little springs and pins. thanks a bunch |
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Posted: 4/7/2015 9:42:39 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
got the tap in yesterday night, spent my lunch re-tapping the hole. fits perfectly now. I went ahead and did my 2nd build's receiver before even trying to screw, and i'm glad i did, was able to bring out a lot of shavings. on a slightly different note though, I was installing the forward breakdown pin w/ spring and detent; I did get them in, but not before launching them into the air and searching my living room for 5 minutes. Just for future reference is there a "good" way to complete this step? I put the spring in, put detent on top, held down with razor blade, then slid takedown pin on top. only took me 2 tries but hindsight would like to avoid scouring the floor for little springs and pins. thanks a bunch stick everything inside of a garbage bag and work on it from there so if the spring goes flying you dont have to look for it. |
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Posted: 4/7/2015 10:21:14 PM EDT
[#16]
simple, yet ingenious. will know for next time.
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Posted: 4/7/2015 11:14:15 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
got the tap in yesterday night, spent my lunch re-tapping the hole. fits perfectly now. I went ahead and did my 2nd build's receiver before even trying to screw, and i'm glad i did, was able to bring out a lot of shavings. on a slightly different note though, I was installing the forward breakdown pin w/ spring and detent; I did get them in, but not before launching them into the air and searching my living room for 5 minutes. Just for future reference is there a "good" way to complete this step? I put the spring in, put detent on top, held down with razor blade, then slid takedown pin on top. only took me 2 tries but hindsight would like to avoid scouring the floor for little springs and pins. thanks a bunch Try this tool for the pivot pin install. http://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Pivot-Roll-Install-156243/dp/B00FSVWHHU I have used one of these on my last two build and it makes it much easier. |
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Posted: 4/8/2015 10:13:53 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Some lowers don't have the screw hole tapped all the way. A 1/4-28 tap and a shot of WD-40 will fix that. You could either shorten the screw or complete the threading job. No harm done if the threads go all the way through to the other end of the hole. Some people like to place a set screw at the upper end of the hole to impinge on the trigger and remove some of the usual take up movement from a GI trigger. - CW |
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Posted: 4/10/2015 3:57:40 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
got the tap in yesterday night, spent my lunch re-tapping the hole. fits perfectly now. I went ahead and did my 2nd build's receiver before even trying to screw, and i'm glad i did, was able to bring out a lot of shavings. on a slightly different note though, I was installing the forward breakdown pin w/ spring and detent; I did get them in, but not before launching them into the air and searching my living room for 5 minutes. Just for future reference is there a "good" way to complete this step? I put the spring in, put detent on top, held down with razor blade, then slid takedown pin on top. only took me 2 tries but hindsight would like to avoid scouring the floor for little springs and pins. thanks a bunch Ha ha, I've been on my hands and knees looking for those too. There's still one floating around my garage somewhere. That one delayed a build until a new one arrived by mail. There are a variety of good solutions on Youtube for this. As someone else just said, I've used a garbage bag technique too. Now I just put the spring in and use the side of the pivot pin to push in the detent. |
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Posted: 4/10/2015 9:27:50 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Try this tool for the pivot pin install. http://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Pivot-Roll-Install-156243/dp/B00FSVWHHU I have used one of these on my last two build and it makes it much easier. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
got the tap in yesterday night, spent my lunch re-tapping the hole. fits perfectly now. I went ahead and did my 2nd build's receiver before even trying to screw, and i'm glad i did, was able to bring out a lot of shavings. on a slightly different note though, I was installing the forward breakdown pin w/ spring and detent; I did get them in, but not before launching them into the air and searching my living room for 5 minutes. Just for future reference is there a "good" way to complete this step? I put the spring in, put detent on top, held down with razor blade, then slid takedown pin on top. only took me 2 tries but hindsight would like to avoid scouring the floor for little springs and pins. thanks a bunch Try this tool for the pivot pin install. http://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Pivot-Roll-Install-156243/dp/B00FSVWHHU I have used one of these on my last two build and it makes it much easier. This is essentially the same as using either the "locally fabricated" tool in the TM, or the Wheeler tool, but costs less. |
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Posted: 4/10/2015 10:33:00 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Some lowers don't have the screw hole tapped all the way. A 1/4-28 tap and a shot of WD-40 will fix that. One like this? https://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/0326669 |
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Posted: 4/11/2015 3:04:20 AM EDT
[#22]
It sucks about your lower, but what did you think they meant by "stripped lower"??
When you have to deal with shipping, FFL fees, and paperwork; I don't mess around with the super budget stuff just to avoid this, especially for lowers. Spikes are cheaper these days, like $40 more than what you paid probably... PSA -SHOULD- pay for shipping both ways to make it right. I don't know if they will. It's part of their corner cutting. They'd probably say something awesome like "well why did you accept the transfer then?" LOL |
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Posted: 4/11/2015 7:56:37 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Some lowers don't have the screw hole tapped all the way. A 1/4-28 tap and a shot of WD-40 will fix that. One like this? https://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/0326669 Would this work? IF it will I need to add a couple to my tool box lol. |
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Posted: 4/11/2015 8:53:00 AM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
got the tap in yesterday night, spent my lunch re-tapping the hole. fits perfectly now. I went ahead and did my 2nd build's receiver before even trying to screw, and i'm glad i did, was able to bring out a lot of shavings. on a slightly different note though, I was installing the forward breakdown pin w/ spring and detent; I did get them in, but not before launching them into the air and searching my living room for 5 minutes. Just for future reference is there a "good" way to complete this step? I put the spring in, put detent on top, held down with razor blade, then slid takedown pin on top. only took me 2 tries but hindsight would like to avoid scouring the floor for little springs and pins. thanks a bunch As crazy as it sounds, one guys idea was not bad. He puts masking tape over the shower drain and closes the door behind him. Anyone that says they have never launched a detent is damn lucky. Its usually the first build and after that you take your time. |
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Posted: 4/11/2015 11:17:41 AM EDT
[#25]
easiest way to keep that spring in place is to just be careful and deliberate in every motion.
as far as tapping the grip screw hole, you can't ever go wrong with a tap/die set, they've saved my bones many times on builds. |
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Posted: 4/11/2015 11:26:47 AM EDT
[#26]
https://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/0326669 this would be the correct size to chase the pistol grip screw/bolt hole?
 |
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Posted: 4/11/2015 11:44:57 AM EDT
[#27]
Second the clevis pin suggestion, it works well but I still do it in a grocery sack as sometimes that detent gets away.
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Posted: 4/11/2015 2:57:41 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
https://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/0326669 this would be the correct size to chase the pistol grip screw/bolt hole? That should work fine. |
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Posted: 4/11/2015 3:35:19 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
As crazy as it sounds, one guys idea was not bad. He puts masking tape over the shower drain and closes the door behind him. Haha....awesome trick. I could see the look on my wife's face if she walked into the bathroom & saw me in the shower with rifle parts. (He's gone into the twilight zone....) |
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Posted: 4/11/2015 4:28:03 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted: That should work fine. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: https://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/0326669 this would be the correct size to chase the pistol grip screw/bolt hole? That should work fine. Awesome, thank you. |
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Posted: 4/16/2015 10:07:30 PM EDT
[#31]
When I put my lowers together, I did not have the proper size clevis pin in my stash of hardware. I made my own, substituting a short piece of 1/4 inch dowel rod that i had laying around. I drilled a cross hole in it and used it just like the clevis pin.
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Posted: 4/17/2015 11:34:39 AM EDT
[#32]
Quoted:
It sucks about your lower, but what did you think they meant by "stripped lower"??
When you have to deal with shipping, FFL fees, and paperwork; I don't mess around with the super budget stuff just to avoid this, especially for lowers. Spikes are cheaper these days, like $40 more than what you paid probably... PSA -SHOULD- pay for shipping both ways to make it right. I don't know if they will. It's part of their corner cutting. They'd probably say something awesome like "well why did you accept the transfer then?" LOL haha... touche sir! |
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Posted: 4/17/2015 9:56:55 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If all fails you could just go AK on it and drill out the threads, countersink it a little from the top, and use a nut to keep the screw in. *I have never done this, but it could work if things go really bad* The correct solution would be to use a helicoil. |
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