Any body got neet trick,s installing parts building Ar,s Post them with a pic if possible

I wash and mop the shop floor before a build   and turn the radio down.  

I got the clevis pin trick from right here. Has saved me some headaches.

http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_4/362116_How_to_install_the_front_Pivot_Pin_using_a__1_clevis_pin___56K_death.html

Tapping the rear pin detent spring hole and installing a set screw that way you don't have to worry about it flying out if the rear plate is removed.

Nice.  So much easier than sittins in the corner of a room when installing the pivot pin detent

I like to use my bench vice to install the roll pins three builds and haven't messed anything up. Just go slowly and make sure you have the pin in straight.

I just use the solid end of a drill bit of the correct size instead of the drilled clevis, but same idea.

I have extra detents in my parts drawer so I can shoot a few into the stratosphere and still be able to finish my build.

I know I am not the only one who does this, but I use duct tape when installing the forward assist. I depress it against the spring pressure, capture it from the other side with a 3/32" punch, and wrap with duct tape to hold it depressed. This way the roll pin goes in without having to fight sideways spring pressure. This is all done with the upper in a clamshell block. Make one complete wrap starting at front of the block, depress the FA and continue wrapping until you reach the front of the vise block. Now your hands are free to drive the roll pin in with the roll pin holder and punch. I like to drive from the underside, just in case of a rare accidental slip of the punch, it won't be so obvious.

The Gressele triggers come with a slave pin to hold the disconnector to the trigger during install. Save that pin and you can reuse it for any trigger install. Makes lining up the trigger and disconnector a snap when you install the actual  pin through them.

no so much a build trick but when I was in the military, my buddies and I would clean our BCGs in the shower using a tooth brush and soapy water, preferable dawn.

Just scrub it down..  Gets 100% clean and in all the tight spots.  Dry it off well and light lube, BCG will be spick and span.

Its a ton quciker then some of the crazier tools youll see available for cleaning a BCG.  Break it down and scrub it down like your brushing your teeth.  Easy as Cake.

The only improvement on this I've seen is to do the assembly inside a gallon ziploc bag.  That way, when you launch the detent, it'll be contained.

I got lucky when I launched mine.  It was on my computer desk, and the detent got caught in the pile of crap under the monitor.

I do my own cerakote. So far I have done approximately 30 AR's. What I found early on was to clean up the pivot and takedown pin holes with a 1/4" drill bit (carefully). Also the safety selector hole with a 3/8" drill bit. While it is desirable to have a tight lockup, the cerakote in those holes is enough to keep the pins from being removed easily. I leave the trigger group holes alone, because I want those pins tight.

Another tip is to use a laser bore-sighter. I find it gives a pretty good "rough" alignment of back-up sights, scopes and red-dots. Best to do outside at night with about a 25 yard hold. I just have to be discreet and not alarm my neighbors - LOL

Dawn is a great degreaser, and it helps get parts cleaner than almost anything - plus it won't peel your skin, give you cancer, or make you throw up.  All plusses to me!

I use a lower vise block to hold the lower while I'm installing parts. Having that "extra hand" makes it much easier to get things done without much cussing.

I have never launched a detent, but I've used the clevis pin tool for almost every pivot pin install I've done.  Use a 1/4" clevis pin at least 1 1/2" long, the kind with multiple holes.  It's cheap, easy to use, and almost fool proof.

This isn't a "trick," but it's very helpful.  Use quality roll pin starters and roll pin punches to install those bad boys.  They aren't expensive, and they will save you lots of time and aggravation.  Mine are Lyman punches, and they came from Brownells.  The Brownells bolt catch pin punch is a VERY good tool to have, but it doesn't do it all for you.  I still tape over the side of the lower when I install the bolt catch pin, even when using that specific tool, "just in case."

The most important things to remember are to TAKE YOUR TIME, and KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING BEFORE YOU DO IT.  Have the TM or other quality written procedure open to the step you're doing BEFORE you do it, and read over the procedure TWICE before you start.  If you run into a "gotcha" while doing a procedure, STOP and reread the steps.  You either picked up the wrong pin, skipped over a step, or didn't quite "get" the whole thing the first time, and rereading will usually help you solve the problem without resorting to taking the whole thing apart and starting over.  While some parts do need to be tapped in with a little bit of force, they shouldn't need to be "forced" into place.  Knowing what is supposed to happen before you start will make it easier to do the whole thing.  I can't specifically state how many lowers I've built/rebuilt/upgraded, but I always use written directions while I do it.

It's blasphemy, but I use small xcelite channel locks to install my pins. After years of screwing with pin punches, slipping and scratching I put a small piece of silicon tape on the grab side and gently press them in. Flame if needed

A small ball peen hammer (8oz) works better than a BFH

+1 for this

Also, the clear bag works great when installing the tiny E-clip on the ejection port door rod.

Clear fingernail polish from your woman's stash works great as a locktite substitute

Clamping your upper in a vise to install a barrel, remove a muzzle devise or whatever.

Sacrifice a Delrin cutting board to make two strips.  One for the bottom of the upper between the takedown lugs, and another to cover the top rail.

Slap those derlin strips on and put the upper in the vise sideways.  

Works for any upper, even larger than normal billet or thick walled parts that might not fit in the normal plastic clamshell vise block.

This is good stuff will help a lot of builders.Anybody got a Trick share it

Similar question was asked not long ago here Custom AR building Tools

The Clevis pin trick works well.  I haven't built a lower without using the modded auto punch since I, well modded it.  The right sized nails would work for slave pins. But the tapered drill rods are perfect.  Before long I will make a custom trigger guard roll pin pusher, but one for the bolt catch pin will take some work.  Pliers and vise grips work, but they aren't easy for beginners.  I like making tools anyone can pick up and use with confidence.

You can use a modded clevis pin to install an A2 upper sight elevation spring.  There are special tools for this, but I just cut a 3 kerf wide slot from the end to the first hole in the clevis pin.  This makes a slot that the roll pin can go through while holding the spring clear of the roll pin.  

It was tricky, but I cut the first slot right down the middle, then cut another kerf width on each side.  Worked perfectly and can still be used for installing your pivot pin detent.

Far from a trick, but turn your lower upside down in your viceblock (why would you not use a viceblock) when you install the safety detent and grip. Gravity holds everything in and you can see where to line up the grip and detent much better. Put some thick grease in the bolt head or tape on the screwdriver to hold the screw on, this makes lining everything up easier.

Also do the bolt catch. you will need to find a long tap, but worth it.
I do the trigger guard like this too.
no snapped ears, use 2 set screws, one from each side. they then seat into each other. never backed out the last 10 years.

The spray tube/straw that comes on a lot of aerosol spray cans works really well to hold the bolt release in place while you start driving the roll pin in.

I sat in the tub with the shower curtain closed. Im glad I did cause it shot out a couple times.

This.

I use these Knipex pliers to squeeze the bolt catch pin into place.

Knipex pliers wrench

I saw a video on youtube showing someone doing it with needle nose pliers.. these work much better and do not run the risk of scratching the coating and or paint... I have used this on over 50 builds works wonders.

I frigging hated doing it the old fashioned way..

That's a good one!

I use a c clamp for trigger guard roll pins.

Thanks for the lead on these!  I've got a couple of pairs of smaller parallel jaw pliers, but these are perfect for another project I've got.

I use round "cocktail" toothpicks for this and other "dummy pin" applications.  Sometimes the pin messes up the toothpick, but it's cheap so it's not a problem.  The toothpick is also useful for applying lube to tiny little spots, and who knows what else.

When pinning on a gas block/FSB.
Tap the bottom hole in the gas block/FSB for a set screw.
Use a gas block dimpling tool to dimple the barrel under the gas port.
Install the gas block and use the set screw to hold the block and align it properly with the gas port.
When you drill for pins, the block won't rotate due to the setscrew.

Works with both low profile blocks and standard FSBs.  
Front sight is aligned properly because the gas port is aligned properly.

Nice one ^^^

It saddens me to hear of all these "pliers methods" though.
Blasphemy.
Learn to use a fuggin hammer.

I have my wife watch. One of her specialties is finding small metal parts. As she puts it "compared to finding jewelry this is easy."

Did this last night. Worked perfect.
Thanks for the tip!

Exact-ically this.

I figure I should have all those pins on hand anyway.

Lows sells a set of slide pliers with rubber guards over the jaws works like a charm
Item #: 404860 Model #: 87137