User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 12/16/2014 1:40:37 AM EDT
[#1]
Channel lock pliers?
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/16/2014 1:43:08 AM EDT
[#2]
I've assembled countless lowers, and not once have I had issues with a bolt catch roll pin. I use a roll pin starter and then switch over to a roll pin punch designed for this application. Only thing special about it is that it is cut so it can be closer to the receiver when tapping with a small hammer.
What is your go to LPK? What is your go to lower? |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/16/2014 1:44:28 AM EDT
[#3]
Coiled roll pins.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/16/2014 1:54:10 AM EDT
[#4]
And lube.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/16/2014 2:26:35 AM EDT
[#5]
these and lube are your best friend
After starting the pin with the punch above and a drop of oil, I finish with a brass roll pin punch. Badda bing, no issues. ETA: are you using a "slave pin" to keep everything lined up while tapping the pin in? |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/16/2014 6:34:22 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
And lube. This. Lube is your friend. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/16/2014 11:56:07 AM EDT
[#7]
Channel lock pliers Yup. I tried my first one with a punch, very quickly switched to my 10" Knipex Gators, been doing it that way ever since. Really doesn't take that much pressure to squeeze them in. A little tape on the off side so that you don't mar the finish with the pliers is a good idea, though. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/16/2014 12:08:15 PM EDT
[#8]
Taped up vice grips. It's even in the stickies here as the suggested way to do it.
Roll pin punches are great for an experienced assembler or mechanic, but they can be a disaster for the new guy who has no mechanical experience. Vice grips are the easy solution. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/16/2014 2:40:15 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Yup. I tried my first one with a punch, very quickly switched to my 10" Knipex Gators, been doing it that way ever since. Really doesn't take that much pressure to squeeze them in. A little tape on the off side so that you don't mar the finish with the pliers is a good idea, though. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Channel lock pliers Yup. I tried my first one with a punch, very quickly switched to my 10" Knipex Gators, been doing it that way ever since. Really doesn't take that much pressure to squeeze them in. A little tape on the off side so that you don't mar the finish with the pliers is a good idea, though. Smooth jaws and taped.... |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/16/2014 11:58:33 PM EDT
[#10]
Thanks everyone.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/17/2014 12:53:14 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Coiled roll pins. That's what I use. Once you do it hundred times you'll be fine. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/17/2014 1:21:11 AM EDT
[#12]
Vice grips with jaws wrapped with electrical tape. Use them to drive the pin in 99% then set it just below flush with a ball peen hammer and roll pin punch.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/17/2014 11:15:20 AM EDT
[#13]
+1 on the vice grips, although once you have built a few either tool will work. Just be patient and all will be ok...
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/17/2014 12:20:09 PM EDT
[#14]
I slightly pinch the start end. On real hard cases, I've sand a small bevel around the start end and a good lube helps.
Roll-pin punch to start, then regular punch once it is settled. I tried the vice-grip before and it worked, but it was awkward and not as quick as using the proper tools. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/17/2014 12:57:40 PM EDT
[#15]
No need for vice grips. Plain ol pliers will do it easily.
a little tape on the jaws, open to large setting and pinch. I pinch the end of the pin a little bit. Start with needle nose and brass hammer, finish with pliers. Roll pin punches are great too but I've built dozens as described with no issues. YMMV. EDIT: I normally assemble them at my computer desk but sometimes I do it on the couch while watching tv. 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/17/2014 3:17:42 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I tried the vice-grip before and it worked, but it was awkward and not as quick as using the proper tools. Same here. Using the starter punches that actually hold the pin for you is so easy. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/17/2014 3:56:22 PM EDT
[#17]
I prefer to use pliers with the jaws taped, as mentioned above. A set of needle-nose pliers can be used to hold the pin straight, so you can get it started in the hole. Same method works for the bolt assist pin, and trigger guard pin.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/17/2014 9:11:48 PM EDT
[#18]
a dab of grease on the end of the starter punch will hold the pin on the punch
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/18/2014 1:26:55 AM EDT
[#19]
No matter which method you use ( I prefer to just tap them in as opposed to the plier-squeeze method), make sure you put some tape on the side of your lower. Duct tape, 100 MPH tape, electrical tape, I don't care if you use scotch tape...but just put some tape down to protect your finish.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/18/2014 10:42:26 AM EDT
[#20]
Pliers of any sort is just too WECSOG for me. Lube, a roll pin starter and a roll pin punch works fine.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/18/2014 10:46:53 AM EDT
[#21]
Roll pin starter and long roll pin punch, barrel assembly grease on roll pin.
Milled punch to remove the pin. Can’t say I have ever had a problem. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/18/2014 9:22:39 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
No matter which method you use ( I prefer to just tap them in as opposed to the plier-squeeze method), make sure you put some tape on the side of your lower. Duct tape, 100 MPH tape, electrical tape, I don't care if you use scotch tape...but just put some tape down to protect your finish. Just like this guy says, use the proper tools and methods you will be successful! A roll pin starter punch, a standard punch (Brownell's sells one cut down on one side just for this situation, 080-261-012WB) , some lube and a small hammer. It doesn't hurt to use a one size smaller punch for alignment and some tape to protect the surface from hammer dings. Anyone that is using the plier-squeeze method has never been educated in proper assembly. This just doesn't apply to building ARs. I have been a maintenance mechanic for years and I have never seen anyone install a roll pin by squeezing it in with a pair of pliers of any kind. Roll pins are designed to be tapped in to place with a hammer and should be installed that way! |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/19/2014 1:11:54 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Anyone that is using the plier-squeeze method has never been educated in proper assembly. This just doesn't apply to building ARs. I have been a maintenance mechanic for years and I have never seen anyone install a roll pin by squeezing it in with a pair of pliers of any kind. Roll pins are designed to be tapped in to place with a hammer and should be installed that way! Well thank you for using your second post to discredit a method that has been linked in a thread on this site for almost 10 years. While I do have and use punches for many parts of assembly I (and many others ) find that instead of tapping it in a quick squeeze with a pair pliers gets the job done. I also finish it with a punch to counter sink it. This pin in particular lends itself quite well to this method, other pins not so much. YMMV means Your Method May Vary. I was responding to the OP whom was asking for a better method than he was using so as to not destroy the roll pin. We have a saying in the tinning industry, "Everything is a hammer"  , again YMMV.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/19/2014 2:00:33 AM EDT
[#24]
I remember when the vise grips/pliers method first came out and I still think that it's just as retarded now as it was then.
I'ts usually the trademark sign of a beginner, along with KNS pins, Harbor Freight Tools, Dremels, questions about grease and the ButtVICE.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/19/2014 2:56:26 AM EDT
[#25]
It's a bolt catch roll pin, not freaking brain surgery. I don't know why it would be looked at with so much disdain, because using pliers seems to work just fine. Technically
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/19/2014 11:39:41 AM EDT
[#26]
If I were going to use pliers I would use Knipex Pliers because the jaws stay parallel to each other through the movement range.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/19/2014 8:11:17 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I remember when the vise grips/pliers method first came out and I still think that it's just as retarded now as it was then.
I'ts usually the trademark sign of a beginner,along with KNS pins, Harbor Freight Tools, Dremels, questions about grease and the ButtVICE. I have to disagree here. I've actually had the issue of my hammer/trigger pin holes going oblong on my 9mm rig after several thousand rds. I replaced the lower and installed KNS pins. They ABSOLUTELY did exactly what they're advertised to do. Many thousands of rds later, the holes are still as round as they were the day I bought it. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/19/2014 10:28:25 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I have to disagree here. I've actually had the issue of my hammer/trigger pin holes going oblong on my 9mm rig after several thousand rds. I replaced the lower and installed KNS pins. They ABSOLUTELY did exactly what they're advertised to do. Many thousands of rds later, the holes are still as round as they were the day I bought it. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I remember when the vise grips/pliers method first came out and I still think that it's just as retarded now as it was then.
I'ts usually the trademark sign of a beginner, along with KNS pins, Harbor Freight Tools, Dremels, questions about grease and the ButtVICE. I have to disagree here. I've actually had the issue of my hammer/trigger pin holes going oblong on my 9mm rig after several thousand rds. I replaced the lower and installed KNS pins. They ABSOLUTELY did exactly what they're advertised to do. Many thousands of rds later, the holes are still as round as they were the day I bought it. Well, there is sure to be some legitimate uses of them. It's just that the KNS pins are used so often by noobs either because they think that they look cool or they are trying to put a band-aid fix on a pin walking problem that would be better addressed by finding and dealing with the source of the actual problem. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/20/2014 8:48:24 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I remember when the vise grips/pliers method first came out and I still think that it's just as retarded now as it was then.
I'ts usually the trademark sign of a beginner, along with KNS pins, Harbor Freight Tools, Dremels, questions about grease and the ButtVICE. You're certainly entitled to your opinion. But so is everyone else (even those who don't agree with yours). Have a nice day!
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/24/2014 10:30:39 AM EDT
[#30]
couple things...
*KNS pins - i agree, they're a gimmick.. I've never had any of my pins walk but if I did, installing an add on to stop them from walking would not be the way I would take care of it. *Lube on a lower - I like that he at least asked.. *Harbor freight - why pay 3X-5X more for a tool you'll use once a year? (if you're building 10 lowers a month, that's a different situation) *Pliers/Vice Grips/Channel-Locs - I've seen many a "gunsmith" mar up a lower receiver with a brass hammer trying to put that pin in. If you can do it quickly and without damaging the lower with a pair of pliers then you should do it with the pliers. a "smith" using the traditional method to installing a pin who consequently damages a part of the rifle needs to find another "non traditional" way to install the pins.. (or stop calling himself a gunsmith). I pay a gunsmith to make modifications to a firearm in a professional method. I can mar up the finish and damage the lower, myself in the garage... |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/24/2014 11:40:55 AM EDT
[#31]
+1 for this
Quote HistoryQuoted:
couple things... *KNS pins - i agree, they're a gimmick.. I've never had any of my pins walk but if I did, installing an add on to stop them from walking would not be the way I would take care of it. *Lube on a lower - I like that he at least asked.. *Harbor freight - why pay 3X-5X more for a tool you'll use once a year? (if you're building 10 lowers a month, that's a different situation) *Pliers/Vice Grips/Channel-Locs - I've seen many a "gunsmith" mar up a lower receiver with a brass hammer trying to put that pin in. If you can do it quickly and without damaging the lower with a pair of pliers then you should do it with the pliers. a "smith" using the traditional method to installing a pin who consequently damages a part of the rifle needs to find another "non traditional" way to install the pins.. (or stop calling himself a gunsmith). I pay a gunsmith to make modifications to a firearm in a professional method. I can mar up the finish and damage the lower, myself in the garage... |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/24/2014 11:44:33 AM EDT
[#32]
Tape the side of the receiver with 3M Blue Painters tape, purchase the CORRECT punch from Brownells, use a quality coil pin, slightly bevel one end of the pin by rubbing it on sandpaper and lube the hole.
It ain't rocket science
KNS Pins...there is no doubt they are stronger than standard pins, just ask the 9mm AR shooters. They are also CHEAP insurance, I run them on every AR. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/24/2014 12:56:26 PM EDT
[#33]
When you guys are talking about the Brownells bolt catch roll pin punch It seems like you are using it to install the roll pin but it is clearly only designed to be used to remove the the roll pin.
You can use it to help hold everything together while installing the roll pin though. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/24/2014 4:08:22 PM EDT
[#34]
I used a small C-clamp. It has rubber feet on the clamping surface.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/24/2014 5:18:33 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
When you guys are talking about the Brownells bolt catch roll pin punch It seems like you are using it to install the roll pin but it is clearly only designed to be used to remove the the roll pin. You can use it to help hold everything together while installing the roll pin though. I hope they're not doing that! I use pin starters from the rear and finish with a pin punch, and I use the Brownell's punch only to remove the pin from the front. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/24/2014 7:27:43 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I hope they're not doing that! I use pin starters from the rear and finish with a pin punch, and I use the Brownell's punch only to remove the pin from the front. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
When you guys are talking about the Brownells bolt catch roll pin punch It seems like you are using it to install the roll pin but it is clearly only designed to be used to remove the the roll pin. You can use it to help hold everything together while installing the roll pin though. I hope they're not doing that! I use pin starters from the rear and finish with a pin punch, and I use the Brownell's punch only to remove the pin from the front. You're correct, that's how it's done. I sometimes wonder if people are reading the instructions or not. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/27/2014 8:16:03 PM EDT
[#37]
Not trying to contradict any experts but I have never seen a manufacturer use a punch and hammer to install roll pins. They press them. I have been in equipment repair for over 40 years and have removed and installed hundreds of roll pins. Almost all with a punch and hammer because that is the method I have at hand but every parts maufacturer I have dealt with uses a jig and presses roll pins to install them. On my AR builds I press the bolt catch and trigger guard pins. Hope I don't get laughed off the range. Maybe using a punch OR pressing the pins will work? Has anyone checked with Colt to see what they do? (Yes, that last one was sarcasm)
Just saying |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/27/2014 10:58:57 PM EDT
[#38]
There's a word of difference between using a press and fixture for manufacturing and using a pair of viseloks!
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/27/2014 11:31:25 PM EDT
[#39]
Quoted:
After assembling a half dozen lowers I'm still facing a struggle every time I install the bolt stop roll pin. It seems as if no matter how I approach this simple task I still seem to mash the first roll pin I try even when I use a roll pin starter and have the lower in a vice. Does anyone have any suggestions for a best method? Thanks. yeah, thread it and put a set screw in there. sweet. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/28/2014 12:07:20 AM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I hope they're not doing that! I use pin starters from the rear and finish with a pin punch, and I use the Brownell's punch only to remove the pin from the front. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
When you guys are talking about the Brownells bolt catch roll pin punch It seems like you are using it to install the roll pin but it is clearly only designed to be used to remove the the roll pin. You can use it to help hold everything together while installing the roll pin though. I hope they're not doing that! I use pin starters from the rear and finish with a pin punch, and I use the Brownell's punch only to remove the pin from the front. Why can't is be used to install the pin? |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/28/2014 12:32:23 AM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Why can't is be used to install the pin? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
When you guys are talking about the Brownells bolt catch roll pin punch It seems like you are using it to install the roll pin but it is clearly only designed to be used to remove the the roll pin. You can use it to help hold everything together while installing the roll pin though. I hope they're not doing that! I use pin starters from the rear and finish with a pin punch, and I use the Brownell's punch only to remove the pin from the front. Why can't is be used to install the pin? The tip doesn't have a tit, plus you're much more likely to bend it due to the flat. Plus, you're better off driving the pin rear to front. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/28/2014 8:16:40 AM EDT
[#42]
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/28/2014 2:27:42 PM EDT
[#43]
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/28/2014 11:57:19 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Taped up vice grips. It's even in the stickies here as the suggested way to do it. Roll pin punches are great for an experienced assembler or mechanic, but they can be a disaster for the new guy who has no mechanical experience. Vice grips are the easy solution. That's my go to. I even use that at work for roll pins.
Just take it easy and make sure it lines up. ETA: If it's stupid and it works, it ain't stupid. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/29/2014 1:42:29 AM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If I were going to use pliers I would use Knipex Pliers because the jaws stay parallel to each other through the movement range. Came to post this exact thing though I haven't used them to do it yet. Edited: It's funny, I youtubed 'installing bolt catch roll pin' and this was first video that popped up.Knipex |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/29/2014 3:23:55 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The tip doesn't have a tit, plus you're much more likely to bend it due to the flat. Plus, you're better off driving the pin rear to front. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
When you guys are talking about the Brownells bolt catch roll pin punch It seems like you are using it to install the roll pin but it is clearly only designed to be used to remove the the roll pin. You can use it to help hold everything together while installing the roll pin though. I hope they're not doing that! I use pin starters from the rear and finish with a pin punch, and I use the Brownell's punch only to remove the pin from the front. Why can't is be used to install the pin? The tip doesn't have a tit, plus you're much more likely to bend it due to the flat. Plus, you're better off driving the pin rear to front. It does have a tit. Not trying to be argumentative but I have installed at least 20 with it. No reason I can think of that installing from the back matters. Always looking to learn, and curious what I am missing. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/29/2014 3:53:13 PM EDT
[#47]
guys.
I understand if you want to buy a $15 specialty punch in case you ever need it... (i've got a TON of tools that I have only used a couple times in 30 years).. but. to install that pin, you dont need anything except a standard set of pliers with some blue tape on the jaws. I built up a lower this weekend in 30 minutes (setting that pin took all of 30 seconds) and I didn't use a punch for anything except holding the trigger and hammer in place while i installed the pins for each. it's quick and easy to use pliers. REMOVING that pin is a completely different story as others have illustrated and described above. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/29/2014 9:10:05 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It does have a tit. Not trying to be argumentative but I have installed at least 20 with it. No reason I can think of that installing from the back matters. Always looking to learn, and curious what I am missing. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
When you guys are talking about the Brownells bolt catch roll pin punch It seems like you are using it to install the roll pin but it is clearly only designed to be used to remove the the roll pin. You can use it to help hold everything together while installing the roll pin though. I hope they're not doing that! I use pin starters from the rear and finish with a pin punch, and I use the Brownell's punch only to remove the pin from the front. Why can't is be used to install the pin? The tip doesn't have a tit, plus you're much more likely to bend it due to the flat. Plus, you're better off driving the pin rear to front. It does have a tit. Not trying to be argumentative but I have installed at least 20 with it. No reason I can think of that installing from the back matters. Always looking to learn, and curious what I am missing. I just double checked mine, no tit. Mine's about six or seven years old, maybe they added the tit after that? With a tit, drive on - I'd still be careful that you don't bend it. From the back is how I learned thirty years ago, there was a reason given but I'll be damned if I can remember why. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/29/2014 9:54:08 PM EDT
[#49]
Mine is probably older, so maybe it is the other way around.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/30/2014 12:47:21 AM EDT
[#50]
it was mentioned earlier, but I use the linked brownells punch and a lyman brass tapper hammer to drive in the roll pin. I also wrap the bolt catch portion of the lower with electrical tape and put the roll pin in the freezer when I first start putting the parts kit together and do the bolt catch last. I dunno if it actually has enough time to get real cold and shrink a tiny bit, but I haven't made a scratch in any lower since I got that punch.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=26484 |
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
