User Panel
Posted: 12/13/2014 8:39:29 PM EDT
I’m about to start my 2nd build and realized the barrel I bought doesn’t have dimples for the gas block. I figured I would just buy a cheap 6 dollar gas block off ebay and make my own. I started researching the project and realized to make a reliable jig it’s beyond my skill level with what I have to work with so I’m thinking I’ll just buy one………nope, 60 bux at brownells and Rainer Arms has one for 45 bux but it’s out of stock. I defiantly want this right so I’m wondering if anyone has a dimple tool I could use or rent? I would pay shipping both ways unless you live in N. Central Alabama at which case I would just meet you. If this is a far-fetched request just let me know and I’ll just wait and buy a jig when they’re back in stock. Thanks.
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[#1]
figure out where you want it. make a mark on the barrel with a sharpie through the holes. use a centerpunch and make a dent. then take a drill bit and drill a dimple. You don't need a jig.
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[#2]
Quoted:
figure out where you want it. make a mark on the barrel with a sharpie through the holes. use a centerpunch and make a dent. then take a drill bit and drill a dimple. You don't need a jig. View Quote Yeah, I've read all that from several websites but I have a knack for drilling holes off center. I did this mod and drilled the first hole perfect but when I drilled the front hole it was off center, so I don't want to risk a 260 dollar barrel. |
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[#3]
Quoted: Yeah, I've read all that from several websites but I have a knack for drilling holes off center. I did this mod and drilled the first hole perfect but when I drilled the front hole it was off center, so I don't want to risk a 260 dollar barrel. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: figure out where you want it. make a mark on the barrel with a sharpie through the holes. use a centerpunch and make a dent. then take a drill bit and drill a dimple. You don't need a jig. Yeah, I've read all that from several websites but I have a knack for drilling holes off center. I did this mod and drilled the first hole perfect but when I drilled the front hole it was off center, so I don't want to risk a 260 dollar barrel. |
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[#4]
no, probably not. I just can't spend anymore money right now on tools until maybe next month. I just spent 1300 bux on this build.
NorthTech Defense Upper/Lower Receiver NT152-MS Burnt Bronze Odin Works 18" 223 Wylde 3-Gun Barrel w/Gas Tube & Gas Block AIM v2 BLACK NITRIDE Bolt Carrier CMMG Lower Parts Kit POF AR15 4.5lb Trigger w/ KNS Anti Rotation Pins Black Hawk Butt Stock Black Hawk Ergonomic Pistol Grip YHM Annihilator Flash Hider Rainier Arms Force Free Float - Keymod Rail Battle Arms Development Enhanced Pins Set Titanium Raptor Charging Handle |
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[#5]
http://www.brdengineering.com
Here's your "Rainier" jig. I agree, this way over priced for a big hunk of steel. I'm gonna order this after Christmas, if you still need it I'll let you use it. |
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[#6]
I like that companies low-pro gas block drilling jig. Good stuff. As others have mentioned, it isn't that hard to use a punch to start a drill bit. Just take your time and you'll be fine.
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[#7]
Is dimpling absolutely necessary? I installed a gas block lastnight on my first build and used some blue lock-tite but did not dimple the barrel for the set screws.
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[#9]
Quoted:
I like that companies low-pro gas block drilling jig. Good stuff. As others have mentioned, it isn't that hard to use a punch to start a drill bit. Just take your time and you'll be fine. View Quote I think it really depends on what you're guns application is. If you're going to put it together and then let it collect dust then no. If you plan to go to war, or even think you might, or want to get years of unfailing, problem free use out of it then yes...absolutely. Though I use Loctite too, it's in conjunction with pinning/dimpling. IMHO |
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[#10]
Quoted:
I like that companies low-pro gas block drilling jig. Good stuff. As others have mentioned, it isn't that hard to use a punch to start a drill bit. Just take your time and you'll be fine. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
I like that companies low-pro gas block drilling jig. Good stuff. As others have mentioned, it isn't that hard to use a punch to start a drill bit. Just take your time and you'll be fine. Thank you for your vote of confidence Jmacken37 but as I said earlier " to make a reliable jig it’s beyond my skill level with what I have to work with", meaning I'm shy on the proper tools for "that" job. I guess I'll just breakdown and buy the dimple tool. Quoted:
http://www.brdengineering.com/ Here's your "Rainier" jig. I agree, this way over priced for a big hunk of steel. I'm gonna order this after Christmas, if you still need it I'll let you use it. Thank you for your offer Rockdoc173 Quoted:
Is dimpling absolutely necessary? I installed a gas block lastnight on my first build and used some blue lock-tite but did not dimple the barrel for the set screws. For me it is. The gas block doesn't really fit butt up to that ledge, it should actually be about .030 from it. The gas port diameter on this barrel is .080 so if I misalign it I'll reduce that port size and restrict gas flow. I just don't want any problems with something "I can screw up". Of course it only matters if you have this kind of block, if you have a clamp style it doesn't matter. |
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[#11]
Quoted:
What I've done is take a low profile gas block and with a number 30 drill in a drill press or mill, drill down through the set screw hole/gas hole and drill out the top of the gas block and tap the hole for an 8-32 thread. Then place the block on your barrel and using the hole in the top with a flashlight you can align the gas port perfectly, and lock it down with the front (muzzle end) set screw. Then turn it over and eyeball the center of the rear set screw hole with stubby drill bit and lightly spot the barrel, remove the gas block and using the appropriate size drill bit you can make the dimple. Install everything like normal then put an 8-32 set screw in the top hole that you made. I got the idea after using a Micro MOA gas block that uses a threaded hole like that to locate your gas port. http://micromoa.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/Govnah2-1024x768.jpg View Quote That's what I would like to do but I don't have a drill press or taps so I'm back to square 1. I don't see a way around it, I'll just have to buy one. |
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[#12]
Put the gas block on, then tighten the screws, that will leave a mark as to exactly where to drill the dimples. Then remove the gas block , put the barrel in a vise, protected of course. Start with a very small and sharp bit, then go to the correct size.
No need for a jig, don't over think the process, its super easy. |
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[#13]
Quoted:
What I've done is take a low profile gas block and with a number 30 drill in a drill press or mill, drill down through the set screw hole/gas hole and drill out the top of the gas block and tap the hole for an 8-32 thread. Then place the block on your barrel and using the hole in the top with a flashlight you can align the gas port perfectly, and lock it down with the front (muzzle end) set screw. Then turn it over and eyeball the center of the rear set screw hole with stubby drill bit and lightly spot the barrel, remove the gas block and using the appropriate size drill bit you can make the dimple. Install everything like normal then put an 8-32 set screw in the top hole that you made. I got the idea after using a Micro MOA gas block that uses a threaded hole like that to locate your gas port. http://micromoa.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/Govnah2-1024x768.jpg View Quote That's a fantastic tip. Thank you very much. |
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[#14]
ADCO will do this for $10.
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[#15]
View Quote Thanks for your input, but 10 bux plus shipping would cost me just as much as the tool would. I'm going to order the tool today. I hate trying to fix mistakes. If I had a little shop and proper tools I would try it Thanks everyone for your tips and Ideas. |
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[#16]
Bravo Company has it in stock although it has gone up to $55. I use the jig and recommend it highly. I paid the Brownells price when I got mine because they are the only ones who had it in stock. You can also get an insert from BRDE for.625 barrels.
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[#17]
View Quote Interestingly, ADCO states on their FAQ page that dimpling for set screws on a low-pro gas block only locates the gas port and does not secure the gas block. That's simply not true. Try to pull off or twist a gas block from a barrel that's been dimpled and had the set screws tightened down, maybe even loctited and/or staked. It will not be "unsecure". You will damage the barrel and/or gb/screws if you try to force it off, which will take much more force than your hand could possibly provide. FWIW- They go on to say pinning is the best if you want the utmost in security, and I agree. Pinning is undoubtedly the best. Period. |
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[#18]
On my recent build I used a DPMS lowpro block and noticed the set screws left round dimples in the barrel. They looked deep enough to hold the block securely.
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[#19]
I recently tried to remove a set screw lo profile gas block that had been set with red Loctite.............after removing the setscrews.........I pounded on the block with a dead blow hammer and it wouldn't budge...........I was prepared to use heat but then said fuck it.............Goes to show how red Loctite with hold these things......
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[#20]
Quoted:
I recently tried to remove a set screw lo profile gas block that had been set with red Loctite.............after removing the setscrews.........I pounded on the block with a dead blow hammer and it wouldn't budge...........I was prepared to use heat but then said fuck it.............Goes to show how red Loctite with hold these things...... View Quote Good, I had red locktight oozing out on my build. |
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[#22]
Quoted:
Put the gas block on, then tighten the screws, that will leave a mark as to exactly where to drill the dimples. Then remove the gas block , put the barrel in a vise, protected of course. Start with a very small and sharp bit, then go to the correct size. No need for a jig, don't over think the process, its super easy. View Quote +1 for this method. When I did mine I had already attached the gas tube to the gas block. I lightly tightened one set screw and blew through the gas tube while holding my finger over the muzzle to block it off. I could hear and feel air coming out of the breach end of the barrel so I knew the gas holes were lined up. I tightened the set screw a little more to leave a mark and removed the gas block. There was a perfect circle on the barrel so I just lightly center punched it and dimpled the barrel. I reinstalled the gas block with that set screw and did the same with the second screw. Red locktite and all done. Like someone said earlier, no reason to over-complicate it. |
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[#23]
Quoted:
dimple and pin for the win http://i1096.photobucket.com/albums/g326/Covertness/pinnedgasblock.jpg View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Interestingly, ADCO states on their FAQ page that dimpling for set screws on a low-pro gas block only locates the gas port and does not secure the gas block. That's simply not true. Try to pull off or twist a gas block from a barrel that's been dimpled and had the set screws tightened down, maybe even loctited and/or staked. It will not be "unsecure". You will damage the barrel and/or gb/screws if you try to force it off, which will take much more force than your hand could possibly provide. FWIW- They go on to say pinning is the best if you want the utmost in security, and I agree. Pinning is undoubtedly the best. Period. dimple and pin for the win http://i1096.photobucket.com/albums/g326/Covertness/pinnedgasblock.jpg |
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[#24]
Bravo has jigs in stock for $55
I have them on order for Rainier but it's going to be after the new year. |
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[#25]
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[#26]
Quoted:
Good, I had red locktight oozing out on my build. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
I recently tried to remove a set screw lo profile gas block that had been set with red Loctite.............after removing the setscrews.........I pounded on the block with a dead blow hammer and it wouldn't budge...........I was prepared to use heat but then said fuck it.............Goes to show how red Loctite with hold these things...... Good, I had red locktight oozing out on my build. yea.......that's the way I do mine..........once I get the rifle functioning.......with reloads and factory ammo......I remove one screw at a time and give the screw hole a shot of Red Loctite.......after doing both screw holes you can see some oozing out .........then I set the rife in a horizontal upright position on a sandbag for a day or so to let things set...........holds like iron............ |
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[#27]
Quoted:
Bravo has jigs in stock for $55 I have them on order for Rainier but it's going to be after the new year. View Quote I ordered one from Bravo the other day, received it and dimpled my first barrel over the weekend. Works like a charm. For me it was the best way to dimple, I know my skills and my limits. By the way, the Odin Works gas block holes match up nicely with the jig, the YHM is a little off. |
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[#28]
Quoted:
I ordered one from Bravo the other day, received it and dimpled my first barrel over the weekend. Works like a charm. For me it was the best way to dimple, I know my skills and my limits. By the way, the Odin Works gas block holes match up nicely with the jig, the YHM is a little off. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Bravo has jigs in stock for $55 I have them on order for Rainier but it's going to be after the new year. I ordered one from Bravo the other day, received it and dimpled my first barrel over the weekend. Works like a charm. For me it was the best way to dimple, I know my skills and my limits. By the way, the Odin Works gas block holes match up nicely with the jig, the YHM is a little off. I only dimple the rear set screw when using YHM patterned blocks. Two is better than one, but one has been no issue yet. I have 8 Odin blocks that will be happy to hear that news though. |
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[#29]
The jig is 0.460" center to center on the holes. If it doesn't match, I've dimpled the gas port location using the jig then install the block on the dimple and use the block to locate the second.
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[#30]
Quoted:
figure out where you want it. make a mark on the barrel with a sharpie through the holes. use a centerpunch and make a dent. then take a drill bit and drill a dimple. You don't need a jig. View Quote That's how I did it. Only I made the marks in the barrel with the set screws. They had little teeth on them. I cranked them both down so it made marks on the barrel. Then I slid the block off and used a center punch to make divots in the center of the marks and then I used an 1/8" drill bit to start the dimples and finished them off with an 11/32nd bit. You don't need to go deep; just make enough of a mark so the tip of the screw can sit in the hole. |
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[#31]
Quoted:
The jig is 0.460" center to center on the holes. If it doesn't match, I've dimpled the gas port location using the jig then install the block on the dimple and use the block to locate the second. View Quote That how I plan to do the YHM when I use it. Thanks again for making the jig available to those of us who need a little extra help. Now to decide if in the future I want to get the pinning jig and try my hand at pinning blocks.... |
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[#32]
Thanks everyone for all your help and tips. I ordered the tool from BCM.
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[#33]
Quoted:
That how I plan to do the YHM when I use it. Thanks again for making the jig available to those of us who need a little extra help. Now to decide if in the future I want to get the pinning jig and try my hand at pinning blocks.... View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
The jig is 0.460" center to center on the holes. If it doesn't match, I've dimpled the gas port location using the jig then install the block on the dimple and use the block to locate the second. That how I plan to do the YHM when I use it. Thanks again for making the jig available to those of us who need a little extra help. Now to decide if in the future I want to get the pinning jig and try my hand at pinning blocks.... The jig makes that too easy. I've down to using a hand drill and the jig now. |
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[#34]
Is it because the YHM 9383 block doesn't require that little gap? It's designed to be "bottomed out" on the barrel before tightening down.
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[#35]
Quoted:
Is it because the YHM 9383 block doesn't require that little gap? It's designed to be "bottomed out" on the barrel before tightening down. View Quote The one dimple is always located 180 from the gas port. It's the front dimple that varies. I don't think the lack of gap effects the hole spacing. |
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[#36]
Quoted:
The one dimple is always located 180 from the gas port. It's the front dimple that varies. I don't think the lack of gap effects the hole spacing. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Is it because the YHM 9383 block doesn't require that little gap? It's designed to be "bottomed out" on the barrel before tightening down. The one dimple is always located 180 from the gas port. It's the front dimple that varies. I don't think the lack of gap effects the hole spacing. No, I suppose it wouldn't. I was wondering if the tool is made to bottom out on the barrel or if you have to account for the little gap. |
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[#37]
Quoted:
No, I suppose it wouldn't. I was wondering if the tool is made to bottom out on the barrel or if you have to account for the little gap. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Is it because the YHM 9383 block doesn't require that little gap? It's designed to be "bottomed out" on the barrel before tightening down. The one dimple is always located 180 from the gas port. It's the front dimple that varies. I don't think the lack of gap effects the hole spacing. No, I suppose it wouldn't. I was wondering if the tool is made to bottom out on the barrel or if you have to account for the little gap. It has a gap, it matches Vltor/BCM/Rainier for size but could have a bigger gap and it wouldn't matter because the hole space would be the same. |
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