So far this is what I've got:
Aero Precision FDE cerakote stripped upper/lower combo (forged)
TR Enabling Obsidian BCG
TR Enabling LPK
Magpul FDE CTR stock
Magpul FDE MIAD grip
Magpul FDE trigger guard
Troy 13" FDE Alpha rail
Troy FDE flip up battle sights
Magpul B.A.D. lever
Mil Spec forward assist assembly
Mil Spec barrel nut
Mil Spec carbine buffer
Yankee Hill Machine Phantom 5C Comp/Flash Hider

This is my list of things I'm planning to get:
Spikes cold hammer forged 16" mid length barrel. (the one they call there "Optimum profile")
SLR Rifleworks Sentry 7 Clamp On Premium Adjustable Gas Block-Melonite (I'm not clear if the clamp on version will fit under the Alpha rail? I may have to get the set screw version.) Anybody know?
Primary Weapon Systems enhanced buffer tube
Tubbs flat coil buffer spring
Battle Arms Development Ambi Safety
KNS Anti Rotational Pins
Spikes black mid length gas tube
Rainier Raptor charging handle
Strike Industries FDE dust cover
Wilson Combat Tactical Trigger Unit 4 lb Single Stage
Noveske TRX QD sling mount (for the alpha rail)
TangoDown Quick-Detach Stubby Vertical Forend Grip FDE

I'm looking for feed back, suggestions, ideas. This is my first build from scratch.  Two things I'm not sure of are; will the clamp on gas block fit under the Alpha rail and should I go with something other than a standard carbine buffer? I plan to run both a red dot and a scope with QD mounts. I'm leaning towards a Aimpoint CompM4S and I haven't decided on a scope yet but it will be mounted in a LaRue SPR LT104. I will be doing a series on my Youtube channel about this build once I get all the parts. I will also share pictures on this thread as I go. Thanks! Bryant

Sounds like you will end up with a nice stick.

Start with a better caliber than 5.56x45
Swap a Geissele SSA-E (or SD3G if you must have a single-stage) for the Wilson CTT.  I have both, and the Geissele is superior.





 

For a build that much, I would want a nicer rail... Like a geiselle.

I'm definitely going with 5.56/223 for this build. I do want a single stage trigger but I don't like Geissele's flat trigger face. Also, I want a little heavier trigger than 3 pounds. This is mainly a battle/fighting rifle but I would like it to also flex as a precision long range rifle also. My buddy has the Wilson trigger and I really liked it.

I'm definitely going with 5.56/223 for this build. I do want a single stage trigger but I don't like Geissele's flat trigger face. Also, I want a little heavier trigger than 3 pounds. This is mainly a battle/fighting rifle but I would like it to also flex as a precision long range rifle also. My buddy has the Wilson trigger and I really liked it.

That's why I like a 2-stage.  In a combat situation you just pull the trigger - you'll never know the difference between a single-stage or a 2-stage.  Shooting long-range for precision a 2-stage is a far better choice.  If you want a little heavier pull, go with the SSA.



 

BCM KMR. Get one.

I'm not sold yet on key mod. Still too early and Magpul is coming out with M lock so it may take over. The Alpha rail was one of the first things I bought and key mod wasn't around when I bought it. I really like the Alpha rail but I'm keeping an eye on the new stuff coming out.

I could be wrong on this but I always thought a single stage was optimal for precision and also better for high rate of fire?

I think you can get it done for well under 2 G’s w optic if you shop around

I just finished my “dream” long range style AR for right at 1700 …. I may upgrade later to a more powerful scope but the used one I just got is great for now

Exactly.

What the original poster is describing - the SSA fits his needs perfectly.

2 stage triggers are for precision. U prep the trigger so u have a very light and crisp break on the second stage. Perfect for long range work.

I with the Geissele SSA it will run just like a single stage for a fast rate of fire. U can't tell it's a two stage when rapid firing.

I used to be in your shoes. Wanted a single stage and thought that was the way to go until I understood everything better.  

Watch this. Long but informative

The purpose of a two stage is to meet total trigger pull weight requirements for competition, whilst allowing the final let off to be as low as possible.



A 4 lb. single-stage requires 4 lbs. of pull.  A 4 lb. 2-stage requires (for example) 2.5 lbs. to 'engage' the trigger, and 1.5 lbs. to 'release' it.



The less pressure required to 'release' the trigger (actually, the sear engagement) the less pressure you have to apply to the gun, and the easier it is to maintain a good sight picture.



 

**UPDATE**
I now have:
Rainier Raptor
Strike Industries FDE dust cover
Tubbs flat coil buffer spring
KNS Anti Rotational Pins
Noveske TRX QD sling mount (for the alpha rail)
Spikes black mid length gas tube
Battle Arms Development Ambi Safety

I still need to get:
Spikes cold hammer forged 16" mid length barrel. (the one they call there "Optimum profile")
SLR Rifleworks Sentry 7 Clamp On Premium Adjustable Gas Block-Melonite (I'm not clear if the clamp on version will fit under the Alpha rail? I may have to get the set screw version.) Anybody know?
Primary Weapon Systems enhanced buffer tube
TangoDown Quick-Detach Stubby Vertical Forend Grip FDE
And I'm still trying to decide between the Wilson Combat Tactical Trigger Unit 4 lb Single Stage and the Geissele SSA.
Thanks for all the input so far! Bryant

The set screw version of the GB will fit, I am not sure if the clamp style will or not with that Troy.

Nothing wrong with a set screw block, if done properly

Yeah, I was just hoping to go with the simpler clamp version if it fit. If I can't find out for sure I'll go with the set screw version. Thanks!

You have done your homework well and this is going to be a great rifle. Are their any local shops where you can compare the triggers? I went with the ALG ACT trigger on mine - $65 bux and nice and crisp. It's worth consideration. BTW, if you go with Giselle, they don't recommend the KNS anti-rolls. Not sure why, though.

Yeah I ordered the KNS anti rotation pins yesterday and realized today that both Wilson and Geissele recommend not using them lol! Oh well, I guess I'll save em for a later build. I've got the TR Enabling Obsidian coated trigger that came with the lower parts kit and I'm definitely going to try that out but I will probably end up putting a premium trigger in eventually. I've gone back and forth but I'm kinda leaning toward the Geissele SSA now. Unfortunately, I don't have any way to try them both before buying. I thought my buddy had the same Wilson trigger I was considering but found out today that his is a different model. Thanks! Bryant  

Just out of curiosity, what is the intent of your "dream rifle"?  Precision rifle, all purpose rifle, SHTF rifle, casual plinker, etc.?

All of the above lol! I guess if I was to prioritize the roles I intend for this rifle to fill it would first be a fast light weight close range defensive rifle. Second, I hope it will be accurate enough to flex into a mid range 200-400 yard precision rifle. Third, it will be a fun gun to shoot, own, and tinker with. I plan to have a QD red dot and scope. Also, I plan to have a QD light, vertical forgrip, and bipod. Fast, light weight, and versatile.

If lightweight is in your criteria, you may want to consider a lightweight barrel.  There are plenty of good all purpose CHF lightweight options out there (BCM or DD just to name a few).  That would definitely shave some ounces off your build.  If you want to keep the weight down even with a bipod attached, I'd throw in a recommendation for the Larue BRM-S/LT706 bipod/mount combo.

I'm opinionated and this post is meant is to helpful (*my disclaimer) , but generally myself (and most everyone that has access to a SBR lower) would tell you a 11.5" or 12.5" is ideal.  With a $2000 budget for dream AR build you can get one, premium parts everywhere a 11.5 or 12.5" that includes the $200 tax stamp, and even a suppressor and the $200 stamp for it also.  What I see proposed in this thread is only margionally better than a $700-800 midlength ar you can buy anywhere.  

I recently build a SBR (Upper had a 12.5" Compass Lake barrel with a compass lake CLE 223 match chamber and they choped, pinned, and reparked a fsb for me, POF rail, WMD NiB BCG, Gunfighter CH) and (Lower had a ALG ACT Trigger, BCM Mod3 grip, Vltor stock) and it was cerakoted Tungsten and my parts were $713 and my tax stamp was $200 for a total of $914.  I'm waiting on a Liberty Freedom Titianium 308 Suppressor that was $681 (suppressor, tax, +$200 tax stamp) than can be used on this and my 308s.

You are right. With the same money I could get into a suppressed SBR and maybe one day I will but I don't want that for my primary rifle mainly because it gives up too much velocity and range. Also, if I were to build a suppressed SBR I would probably do it in 300 Blackout. Thanks! Bryant

For $2000 I would go with a factory suppressed SBR.

$800 can get you a nice BCM complete lightweight upper with the KMR rail with either a CHF or enhanced fluted lightweight barrel
http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/BCM-Upper-Receiver-Groups-with-KeyMod-KMR-s/174.htm

Add a complete PSA MOE lower for less than $200
http://palmettostatearmory.com/index.php/catalog/product/view/id/2416/category/4284/

A geissle SSA E trigger will set you back another $200

That leaves you $400 (-$400 for the stamps) for a suppressor. You should be able to get a nice thread on 5.56 can for somewhere in that price range

The advantages here are you are getting quality, factory parts from one of the better companies out there with one of the best and lightest rails on the market. A factory lower with MOE furniture and the best trigger. And an 11.5 upper with a small can on that upper will be a comparable weight and length of an m4 profile 16"

i have both the TTU and SSA trigger. I wouldnt worry too much about which to get, theyre different but youre not going to go wrong either way.

also, i think you have a pretty good grasp of what you want, just keep going forward with it.

Thanks! I can't wait to get it built! Should have everything in the next 4 to 6 weeks. I've been slowly buying parts for close to two years. I've had plenty of time to think about what I want lol!

According to what you posted earlier in the thread the primary use was close quarters self defense, and secondary use precision work at 200-400yds.  A quality 11.5-12.5" barrel gives up pretty much nothing to a 16" at that range, which is its secondary purpose.  At close quarters a sbr lengh is a huge advantage, a suppressor is also, most self defense situations don't involve putting on hearing protection, and even a 16" length with a brake indoors even if you get the bad guy  you may have hearing loss.  Ironically you could probably SBR a lower, and build a 556 upper and a 300blk upper and get a suppressor for under under budget.

Here is a link to pictures of the completed build. I named her Veronica which means "Bringer of victory".
http://instagram.com/p/tk_xeVvhGS/?modal=true
http://instagram.com/p/tk_xeVvhGS/?modal=true

https://www.facebook.com/CountryBoyPrepper/photos/a.516068325165510.1073741836.194416267330719/573701106068898/?type=1&theater

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KDXSrSHIMbg&list=UUD4sFrJGnt-Lsa7WWjz5LtQ

Dude, what you described looks a lot like mine! XD

All the way down to the Tubb Flat Wire silicone spring!

UPPER

WMD Guns NiB upper, OD Green Cerakote
Vortex Viper 1-4 MRAD, Bobro Mount
Strike Industries 13" Gen 2 Mega fins Keymod ( I used to have the Alpha 13, switched to this to save weight + Keymod + Low price)
AAC Muzzle Brake (sdn6 on the way)
SLR Sentry 7, clamp QPQ
Spikes Melonite Gas tube
TLR2S Laser/Light
16" Voodoo Innovations (Adams Arms) 416R Fluted Barrel, Melonited, 1:8
CMMG LPK (They're all the same)
Tory HK BUIS, Tritium front and rear

Adamas Arms Life Coat low mass BCG
Tubb CS Extractor and Ejector Spring

LOWER

Spikes Spider Lower
Spikes Milspec Buffer Tube
1oz Buffer
Magpul ACS-L OD Green (Switching to CTR to save some weight)
Magpul K2 OD (Like it more than the traditional angle, keep chicken wing down)
Tubb Flat Wire CS Buffer Spring
IWC Anti Rotate QD End plate
ALG ACT with my custom mod (yellow trigger spring, red hammer spring, spacer to prevent over travel, grip screw to take out creep)

Notes:

I hate paying $200+ on a trigger, so I went with the ACT with some mods.

If I could change a part, it would be the 13" rail to a 15", I hate the looks of a 15", but I love the real estate.

Switching the stock to save some oz. Yes, the weight adds up.

Got Tubb CS springs to make it less maintenance down the road.

Spare parts such as gas rings and such go in the grip.

I love the 1:8 twist. Every AR15 barrel should use this, srsly.

Yea, the tritium BUIS will probably never be used.. I should down grade haha.

Once the gas system is regulated with the Adj. Gas block, you can run a ligjht buffer since the bcg is coming back slow anyway. (less recoil and weight)

I used to have a BAD lever. it prevented bolt lock back for me. If you do go with one, get a light one. I had Tactical link.

I did the same, went with the alpha rail bc I thought Mlok was going to take over Keymod. As you have seen, it has not been the case and may take a little longer. Just get a keymod now, then upgrade to MLOK later.


I saw that you wanted a red dot and Scope.

I would stick with one. I suggest getting a 1-4 or 1-6.

ETA:

I thought your the OP was new. Looks like this thread is done hehe. Love your AR!

Nice video and nice build! Have you considered the AVG fore grip as opposed to the RVG since you have it mounted so far forward?

I have and I really don't like it.

Thanks! Yours looks great as well. I've never heard of a 1 oz. buffer? Where can I get one and do you know how many clicks from closed you run your adj. gas block? Thanks!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UCzGVBnUxT8&list=UUD4sFrJGnt-Lsa7WWjz5LtQ

mall ninja style with the VFG lol

should have gone with a phase 5 tactical EBR v2

I'm just going to give another vote for Keymod HG, I have a BCM KMR 13" and am going to use the Midwest Industries SSK-15" on my next. The KMR is insanely light

Someday a keymod will be in your future.

I'm fairly confident that M-lock won't be taking over the industry because so many big names are doing it.

If VLTOR, Noveske, BCM, Knight's Armament, MI, Quentin Defense, Parallax, Veriforce, Geissele, Daniel Defense, Primary Weapons Systems, Samson, and Troy quit making keymod, then there might be a shift toward MLock.

I think the keymod system will probably be around for quite a while because it works.

+1
I had the Troy Rail and got rid of it for a 15" MI SSK. I would go that route or the Noveske NSR.
That Troy is just OK, but there are much better options out there.