User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 9/18/2014 3:04:55 PM EDT
[#1]
Oh no...
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/18/2014 3:07:36 PM EDT
[#2]
Nope.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/18/2014 3:08:38 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Oh no... Haha. Just heard you should oil it. Regular gun oil? |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/18/2014 3:35:06 PM EDT
[#4]
Anti seize compound
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/18/2014 3:44:06 PM EDT
[#5]
You don't want to lube or use thread locker on a barrel nut.
You want to use an anti size compound like aeroshell 33ms. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/18/2014 4:48:33 PM EDT
[#6]
NO to using oil.
Aeroshell 33MS meets the current mil-spec. It is not an anti-seize. Most anti-seize compounds contain graphite. Graphite is known to be incompatible with alum. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/18/2014 4:57:58 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
NO to using oil. Aeroshell 33MS meets the current mil-spec. It is not an anti-seize. Most anti-seize compounds contain graphite. Graphite is known to be incompatible with alum. This. Aeroshell 33ms is an EP Moly grease and is the spec but I use Valvoline Synthetic EP Moly grease for like $6. Just about any EP Moly will work. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/18/2014 5:48:59 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Anti seize compound |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/18/2014 6:25:27 PM EDT
[#9]
I've been using Mobil 1 Synthetic Wheel Bearing Grease on barrel nuts and muzzle threads for many years.
It comes in a 16oz tub at auto parts stores for around $8, and will last you forever. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/18/2014 7:51:01 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I've been using Mobil 1 Synthetic Wheel Bearing Grease on barrel nuts and muzzle threads for many years. It comes in a 16oz tub at auto parts stores for around $8, and will last you forever. Same here this stuff is good to go. To apply it to the threads on the upper receiver, I just dip in the tub and a quick smear on the threads. It gets a good bit on the inside between the barrel and the receiver. When the barrel nut is torqued down, I just wipe off the excess. Never an issue and have been doing this around 4 years now. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/18/2014 7:51:32 PM EDT
[#11]
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/18/2014 7:56:48 PM EDT
[#12]
If that's all you've got, yes its OK.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/18/2014 8:04:09 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Anti seize compound This |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/18/2014 9:07:27 PM EDT
[#14]
Negatory, good buddy...
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/18/2014 9:30:41 PM EDT
[#15]
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/18/2014 9:36:45 PM EDT
[#16]
I use a finger dab from a big can of Lubriplate. I've also used Birchwood Casey's RIG. Locally, (white) lithium grease from the automotive isle is a good choice. The above guys are right about the mil-spec-edness, but really all that matters is that your chosen goop doesn't cause corrosion when squeezed between aluminum and steel.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/18/2014 9:53:10 PM EDT
[#17]
OP please do not pay $4.40 for 10ml of grease. Go to your auto parts store and buy a tub of synthetic EP moly grease for $7 and be done.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/18/2014 10:14:36 PM EDT
[#18]
I have always used white lithium grease.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/18/2014 11:00:54 PM EDT
[#19]
To those saying "no", IIRC, Bushmaster (Windham, ME) mentioned you could use synthetic motor oil such as 10W-30 for receiver extension threads in their "how to build an AR" video.
I have used motor oil before in a build. Took the barrel off after 5 years of it being in to replace the shot-out barrel. The threads were fine and nothing was harmed. I came across a tube of AeroShell ms33 grease for free. I use that now and have enough to last me a lifetime. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/18/2014 11:16:16 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
OP please do not pay $4.40 for 10ml of grease. Go to your auto parts store and buy a tub of synthetic EP moly grease for $7 and be done. I didn't need that much grease. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/18/2014 11:32:31 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I didn't need that much grease. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
OP please do not pay $4.40 for 10ml of grease. Go to your auto parts store and buy a tub of synthetic EP moly grease for $7 and be done. I didn't need that much grease. No but I work on a lot of different equipment so a good moly grease is nice to have around. If you want to pay too much for it go ahead. A whole 14oz tube only costs $15 and I use it on tractor pivot pins and such also. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/18/2014 11:53:54 PM EDT
[#22]
I've used oil on a dozen builds with zero issues.
I recently switched to lithium grease. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/18/2014 11:56:05 PM EDT
[#23]
White Lithium is probably the cheapest and easiest to find, the $4 tube I bought at Home Depot will probably last me a lifetime of builds. Also use it on my Garands.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/18/2014 11:56:19 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
To those saying "no", IIRC, Bushmaster (Windham, ME) mentioned you could use synthetic motor oil such as 10W-30 for receiver extension threads in their "how to build an AR" video. I have used motor oil before in a build. Took the barrel off after 5 years of it being in to replace the shot-out barrel. The threads were fine and nothing was harmed. I came across a tube of AeroShell ms33 grease for free. I use that now and have enough to last me a lifetime. I own said video from BM...they do indeed use motor oil for the barrel nut install. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/19/2014 1:31:43 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Most anti-seize compounds contain graphite. Graphite is known to be incompatible with alum. Mechanics and auto makers put it on steel spark plugs that thread in to aluminum cylinder heads. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/19/2014 2:06:55 AM EDT
[#26]
Have not had one of these in awhile.........
Here is a thread I made on the effects of galvanic corrosion with various lubricants Galvanic corrosion test |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/19/2014 8:15:19 AM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Mechanics and auto makers put it on steel spark plugs that thread in to aluminum cylinder heads. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Most anti-seize compounds contain graphite. Graphite is known to be incompatible with alum. Mechanics and auto makers put it on steel spark plugs that thread in to aluminum cylinder heads. Apples and oranges. There is a ton of info on this subject on the internet. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/19/2014 8:42:24 AM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
White Lithium is probably the cheapest and easiest to find, the $4 tube I bought at Home Depot will probably last me a lifetime of builds. Also use it on my Garands. Yessir |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/19/2014 12:58:14 PM EDT
[#29]
up here in Wisconsin i found it helps to put antisieze on fasteners on my cars. i use a product similar to this on my cars, and have found it works well in assembly of ARs http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Permatex-8-oz-226-8-g-anti-seize-lubricant/_/N-25qx?itemIdentifier=178722&_requestid=4307356 any auto parts store (orielly, autozone, checker, advance auto, etc) should carry a similar product  |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/19/2014 1:01:42 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
To those saying "no", IIRC, Bushmaster (Windham, ME) mentioned you could use synthetic motor oil such as 10W-30 for receiver extension threads in their "how to build an AR" video. I have used motor oil before in a build. Took the barrel off after 5 years of it being in to replace the shot-out barrel. The threads were fine and nothing was harmed. I came across a tube of AeroShell ms33 grease for free. I use that now and have enough to last me a lifetime. Receiver Extension is Aluminum on aluminum and a lower torque value. Buy a tube of moly-fortified wheel bearing grease at your local auto store. Avoid using anti-seize. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/19/2014 1:08:27 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
No but I work on a lot of different equipment so a good moly grease is nice to have around. If you want to pay too much for it go ahead. A whole 14oz tube only costs $15 and I use it on tractor pivot pins and such also. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
OP please do not pay $4.40 for 10ml of grease. Go to your auto parts store and buy a tub of synthetic EP moly grease for $7 and be done. I didn't need that much grease. No but I work on a lot of different equipment so a good moly grease is nice to have around. If you want to pay too much for it go ahead. A whole 14oz tube only costs $15 and I use it on tractor pivot pins and such also. I don't have a need for it because I don't have a tractor or anything like that I would need to grease. If I paid 4 dollars for an ample amount of grease I don't see it as paying too much because I'm not going to waste it, if I pay 15 dollars for a 14 oz and only use less than a half an oz I have 13 and a half ozs sitting around for nothing so now I've paid 15 bux for a half an oz of grease. A person has to figure their own needs and opportunity cost when acquiring goods and services, if I was a bit younger and had equipment to maintain like you I would probably have a different plan. I know 15 bux for a 14 oz tube would be a "better" buy for most, but for me it's just a waste of grease. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/19/2014 2:37:02 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I don't have a need for it because I don't have a tractor or anything like that I would need to grease. If I paid 4 dollars for an ample amount of grease I don't see it as paying too much because I'm not going to waste it, if I pay 15 dollars for a 14 oz and only use less than a half an oz I have 13 and a half ozs sitting around for nothing so now I've paid 15 bux for a half an oz of grease. A person has to figure their own needs and opportunity cost when acquiring goods and services, if I was a bit younger and had equipment to maintain like you I would probably have a different plan. I know 15 bux for a 14 oz tube would be a "better" buy for most, but for me it's just a waste of grease. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
OP please do not pay $4.40 for 10ml of grease. Go to your auto parts store and buy a tub of synthetic EP moly grease for $7 and be done. I didn't need that much grease. No but I work on a lot of different equipment so a good moly grease is nice to have around. If you want to pay too much for it go ahead. A whole 14oz tube only costs $15 and I use it on tractor pivot pins and such also. I don't have a need for it because I don't have a tractor or anything like that I would need to grease. If I paid 4 dollars for an ample amount of grease I don't see it as paying too much because I'm not going to waste it, if I pay 15 dollars for a 14 oz and only use less than a half an oz I have 13 and a half ozs sitting around for nothing so now I've paid 15 bux for a half an oz of grease. A person has to figure their own needs and opportunity cost when acquiring goods and services, if I was a bit younger and had equipment to maintain like you I would probably have a different plan. I know 15 bux for a 14 oz tube would be a "better" buy for most, but for me it's just a waste of grease. Ok 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/19/2014 2:37:44 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Receiver Extension is Aluminum on aluminum and a lower torque value. Buy a tube of moly-fortified wheel bearing grease at your local auto store. Avoid using anti-seize. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
To those saying "no", IIRC, Bushmaster (Windham, ME) mentioned you could use synthetic motor oil such as 10W-30 for receiver extension threads in their "how to build an AR" video. I have used motor oil before in a build. Took the barrel off after 5 years of it being in to replace the shot-out barrel. The threads were fine and nothing was harmed. I came across a tube of AeroShell ms33 grease for free. I use that now and have enough to last me a lifetime. Receiver Extension is Aluminum on aluminum and a lower torque value. Buy a tube of moly-fortified wheel bearing grease at your local auto store. Avoid using anti-seize. Not sure why you quoted me. ms33 grease is used widely in building ARs and I said nothing about anti-seize |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/19/2014 3:09:35 PM EDT
[#34]
The reason most of these items mentioned will work is because the receiver threads are anodized and there is probably little to no bare aluminum to steel contact. As long as the anodizing stays intact it should last for years to come. Antiseize works in cars with steel to aluminum(without the use of the technical terms at my disposal) is because of the anondizing and the fact in the car you a much greater amount of material to sacrifice to the galvanic reaction and a ground. The amount of material in the AR is incredibly small in comparison and if you had bare metal would probably happen much faster with some anti seize compounds.
Now then with all these other substances in account, you have torque values that are set and designed using the milspec grease. Is that such a big deal given the wide torque values 35-80lbs? I don't know? I generally work with all mine til I get 50-55lbs. This last week I had one I quit at 60lbs because it was not playing well. Then you have all the OEM barrel nuts with different manufacturers, what are their individual OEM specs and the spectrum they allow. And then there are a couple of manufacturers that spec clean with degreaser or brake cleaner and put barrel nut on dry. There is a lot of variables. To say hard and fast Aeroshell 33ms is the only way to go?? I dont know about that. To say generically it is the right way to go per regular milspec, I 100% agree. I myself still have an original tube of Pro Honda Moly 60 that I have used on every build. MSDS is similar expect chemically it is 60% molydenum disulfide instead of 5%. This could make a difference in a bad way if the surfaces articulate. As it has been proven that steel and aluminum articulating surfaces that use moly grease tend to massively degrade the aluminum. However, moly on aluminum to steel compression surfaces is superior. Some things to think about in this whole greasy situation. Use your best judgement. And anybody that says there is ONLY 1 way it can happen and you will go to hell if you don't do it that way, is probably full of it and wound up very tightly. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/19/2014 5:28:32 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I've been using Mobil 1 Synthetic Wheel Bearing Grease on barrel nuts and muzzle threads for many years. It comes in a 16oz tub at auto parts stores for around $8, and will last you forever. I run pistons and this is what I use for everything in my sticks, assembly included. I use a grease gun as a dispenser, when I need it I just pump the handle slightly and I'm gtg. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/22/2014 1:57:15 PM EDT
[#36]
Permatex 80078 contains graphite.
Works great for lubing threads. In this application however it exposes the user to unintended consequences. I would not use anything with graphite in it, but each to his own. |
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
