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Posted: 8/27/2014 12:13:08 PM EDT
[#1]
unscrew the old muzzle device with an armorers or crescent wrench. Install new muzzle device by screwing the new one on in the opposite direction.
 20-30 ft lbs is enough.
You may need a new crush washer if the old was installed with one. If your new muzzle device is intended as a suppressor host, use a peel washer or shim kit (shims are easier) to time it. I simply clamp the upper in a standard AR vice to hold it still. As long as you're not REALLY cranking on it, you won't risk damaging your barrel or receiver. You don't want to put a ton (i.e more than 20-30 ft lbs) on the new muzzle device as that can/will stretch the barrel at the muzzle end. Barrel/Receiver alignment is a non-issue. |
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Posted: 8/27/2014 12:47:11 PM EDT
[#2]
Use barrel blocks or wood to brace at the front sight base and clamp the barrel up there, as close to where you're going to be wrenching on it as possible.
Absolutely no reason to put any strain on the upper receiver in a vise fixture in order to change a muzzle device. |
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Posted: 8/27/2014 1:22:41 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Use barrel blocks or wood to brace at the front sight base and clamp the barrel up there, as close to where you're going to be wrenching on it as possible. Absolutely no reason to put any strain on the upper receiver in a vise fixture in order to change a muzzle device. |
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Posted: 8/27/2014 2:30:30 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
^ reaction rod for muzzle device work... Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Use barrel blocks or wood to brace at the front sight base and clamp the barrel up there, as close to where you're going to be wrenching on it as possible. Absolutely no reason to put any strain on the upper receiver in a vise fixture in order to change a muzzle device. reaction rod for muzzle device work... Think I'd opt out of that thing for muzzle work they way broken barrel pins have been popping up about once a week. |
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Posted: 8/27/2014 2:33:08 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Think I'd opt out of that thing for muzzle work they way broken barrel pins have been popping up about once a week. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Use barrel blocks or wood to brace at the front sight base and clamp the barrel up there, as close to where you're going to be wrenching on it as possible. Absolutely no reason to put any strain on the upper receiver in a vise fixture in order to change a muzzle device. reaction rod for muzzle device work... Think I'd opt out of that thing for muzzle work they way broken barrel pins have been popping up about once a week. |
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Posted: 8/27/2014 2:47:33 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You're not going to pop a barrel pin using a reaction rod for muzzle device work, but I agree that I would not use one for barrel installation... Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Use barrel blocks or wood to brace at the front sight base and clamp the barrel up there, as close to where you're going to be wrenching on it as possible. Absolutely no reason to put any strain on the upper receiver in a vise fixture in order to change a muzzle device. reaction rod for muzzle device work... Think I'd opt out of that thing for muzzle work they way broken barrel pins have been popping up about once a week. I've always read that you should clamp onto the barrel as close as possible to the muzzle device that is being torqued. With the reaction rod aren't you doing the opposite? Or is "clamp onto the barrel as close as possible to the muzzle device" just not sound? |
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Posted: 8/27/2014 3:11:22 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I've always read that you should clamp onto the barrel as close as possible to the muzzle device that is being torqued. With the reaction rod aren't you doing the opposite? Or is "clamp onto the barrel as close as possible to the muzzle device" just not sound? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Use barrel blocks or wood to brace at the front sight base and clamp the barrel up there, as close to where you're going to be wrenching on it as possible. Absolutely no reason to put any strain on the upper receiver in a vise fixture in order to change a muzzle device. reaction rod for muzzle device work... Think I'd opt out of that thing for muzzle work they way broken barrel pins have been popping up about once a week. I've always read that you should clamp onto the barrel as close as possible to the muzzle device that is being torqued. With the reaction rod aren't you doing the opposite? Or is "clamp onto the barrel as close as possible to the muzzle device" just not sound? |
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Posted: 8/27/2014 4:07:53 PM EDT
[#8]
Thanks for the info so far... but what if there is no front sight? just a gasblock. Does the barrel clamp need to go around it as well or can there be enough grip on the barrel alone?
8 |
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Posted: 8/27/2014 4:41:03 PM EDT
[#9]
Like this.
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Posted: 8/27/2014 5:23:23 PM EDT
[#10]
As others have said, clamp the barrel as close as possible to where you're applying pressure. Use wood blocks, aluminum barrel vise jaws, whatever it takes to hold the barrel.
While the Reaction Rod may work fine for this kind of thing, it still allows you to put torque through the entire barrel, which is not necessary. The whole point of the Reaction Rod (and similar tools) is to assist with barrel nuts, and since these tools hold the barrel at the barrel extension (awfully close to the flange of the extension) they hold it very, very close to where the torque is being applied. If you start torquing on the muzzle end of the barrel, you're turning the barrel into a long, stiff torsion bar with unknown side effects just waiting to mess up your upper. |
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Posted: 8/28/2014 6:28:00 AM EDT
[#11]
GREAT! thank for the clarification.
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Posted: 8/28/2014 8:17:14 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryExactly. I have a set of V blocks, delrin and aluminum being made up by a machinist friend of mine. However, a chunk of Oak with a couple V groves in it, and a chunk of rubber will clamp a barrel tight enough 95% of the time |
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Posted: 8/28/2014 9:12:17 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryI need to buy a new set of those with the end grain facing the cylinder 
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Posted: 8/28/2014 1:41:37 PM EDT
[#14]
the wood blocks work nice if you choose a soft wood. The wood will mold to the barrel. For a pricier solution you can use the Geissele reaction rod which slips into the breech of the barrel. I think Midawy sells a variation on the theme
je |
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Posted: 8/28/2014 1:59:06 PM EDT
[#15]
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Posted: 8/29/2014 10:57:26 PM EDT
[#16]
man I could have used that reaction rod last week, build a billet upper for the first time and couldn't use my upper receiver block due to different profile...
what a PITA trying to do everything with barrel blocks. |
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