I am completely new to ARs and building.
I built my 1st though and was happily putting my lower together following this pictogram
http://www.thenewrifleman.com/how-to-build-a-lower-receiver/
There was pictures for every action, it was great. Except they left out the picture for the plunger in the bolt catch. Guess what I left out of my build.

My question is. How the heck do I get the roll pin out of the lower?

Aside from the roll pin being really freaking tight in the hole and being HOLLOW! You can also see that one side of the lower has a depression in it making it even more difficult.
Words of wisdom that will help me here?





Also, having never even fired one. I'm assuming that the plunger absolutely needs to be there for the gun to function?

Correct size roll pin removal punch.

This billet lower didn't  make use of a set screw for the bolt catch?

For the bolt catch roll pin, you'll need a 3/32 Roll Pin Punch like this one Grace USA makes. A "roll pin punch" has a tip on the end of the punch to keep the hollow portion of the roll pin from deforming as it is tapped in/out (a "pin punch" does not have this feature).

Use masking tape to cover up the portion of the lower receiver, that is next to the bolt catch ear the roll pin goes through, that is on the pistol grip side of the lower receiver. If you are not steady enough not to mark or gouge up your lower while tapping out the roll pin. Use a small brass hammer such as a jeweler's hammer to tap the punch, and as you tap push the punch into the roll pin (as if you are trying to push the roll pin through) to minimize the roll pin acting like an air-chisel when the hammer makes contact with the punch.

When re-installing the roll pin, tap it back in from the side that was taped up. Use whatever gun oil you use to lubricate the roll pin (makes installing roll pins easier), and the holes in each ear the roll pin goes through. While at it, lubricate the bolt catch plunger and plunger spring as well. While tapping the roll pin through, push the punch into the pin as before. Also, using another punch to line up the bolt catch with the ears helps. As the roll pin goes into place it will gradually push the punch acting as a guide pin out.

I just googled roll pin removal punch and came up with 0 on the 1st page. So I guessed that maybe you meant roll pin punch? If so, it is straight and would drive the roll pin right into that hard angle that I have pictured. I dont think I can get at it from both sides?

Here is a video of installing parts on a standard lower.. Bolt catch starts about 7:34. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e1omm6jY7Gg
 

I ordered the roll pin punch set from grace.
I will be able to get the roll pin pushed into that hard angle and get the catch out. Hopefully I will be able to get it back in.

Thanks.

Thanks for that. I wish I had watched more then one before building.
The lower is a james madison tactical poly

Looks like you'll have to drive it on through as far forward as it will go before contacting other metal, then dremel it off with a cut-off wheel and drive the rest of it out.  Brownells, I think, makes a flat roll-pin punch specifically for that job (the bolt catch pin).  Like others said though tape it all up first, then drive it on through from back to front.  Stop, cut it off, then drive the rest out.  Roll pins are a dime, so make it sacrificial.

It happens. Wouldn`t be an issue if it was a standard lower. I wanted to add, if you can`t get it pushed back out enough to grab it with pliers and get it out. You could drive it on the way it went in until it hits that angle, then cut it with a dremel or something, then drive whats left of it on out. Or grab it with pliers or something to pry it up, and bend it up out of the way of that angle and drive it the rest of the way out. Of course you will need a new pin for sure after either of these procedures.  


 

Yeah that's a tricky situation.

The punch you need is THIS

Here is a possibility.  Drive it out a little, then cut it off with a dermal, then drive it a bit more, then dermal cut.

That looks to be the only solution I can see.

ETA:  Damn, beat by 2 minutes  

It's $8 to get a roll pin shipped from brownells.
Any ideas? I don't think I've seen them at home depot, maybe tractor supply?

Don't forget the tape.

Try EE

Post a "Want to Buy" add

I'm sure someone will sell you one

The Citizens Armory will ship small packages USPS First Class Mail.

My local true value hardware store carries all sizes of roll pins. Also if u have a local gun store go in and ask if they have them. I needed a gas tube roll pin and my LGS guy gave me one.

Just an idea.

Tony

Where in CT are you? I have all the tools and spare parts, I'll fix it for you for free and supply the pin.

You won't find roll /spring pins at Home Depot or Lowe's. You need to find old fashioned hardware store or fastener store.

Stores like Grainger will stock them but Grainger will only sell in bulk.

Some gun shops/stores might have parts stocked as well.

Tractor supply might have it.

As was pointed out the correct punch is the Brownell's punch. The side of it being ground flat allows you to punch straight at the pin and not at an angle.

I've used mine so many times it's getting to where I need to replace it.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/bolt-tools/dissassembly-tools/bolt-catch-pin-punch-prod26484.aspx

I am sorry the guide has caused this grief.

I have found the missing photograph and I am currently re-installing it into the server.

Some things broke when I re-launched last year and some photos that had been re-named without the .jpg extension evaporated. I thought I caught them all. I am currently re-installing it.

Fixed:



Let this never happen to another one again.

Jane, Any questions on the ar lower build is probably in NSZ85's video on you tube. Here is the link.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e1omm6jY7Gg

He is a member here and is the video I used for my first build. There is also a webpage provided by AR15.com that is at the bottom of this sites homepage. Here is a link:

http://www.ar15.com/content/guides/assembly/lower/

Two good references.

JBL

Roll pins are supposed to be hollow.

You are going to be real lucky if when all is said and done you do not crack one of those ears if that is a poly lower.

 

I made the offer to the OP to come over and fix it free of charge but never even got a response, I could have been in and  out in 10 minutes and that's taking my time to explain how to do what I would do to fix the bolt catch.


ETA: I was even gonna supply the replacement rollpin

That's nice of you HipShot. Maybe he knows more than all of us now. If I needed help and someone wanted to teach me something I would say Yes Please and Thank You!

I felt it was rather rude on the OP's part to ignore my resonse for help, granted if he would have said.."Thanks, I appreciate the offer but I'm going to try to do it myself to learn on my own." Or something like that, it would have been a decent reponse.....

Its unfortunate but these forums of all types are full of people with a complete disregard for what once was common good manners …. Its possibly breading it somehow

That is the ONLY thing that will work and is an excellent suggestion.

Vince

He's new so maybe he missed your help post. Some of us are strong headed and don't want help in some situations, we get our self there and will get our self out.
I wouldn't worry much about it.  

I've made the same mistake.  Drive out the opposite way, but just enough that the catch comes out.  That means the pin can still be in one of the ears, and won't be as hard to put back in.  Lining it up is about as much of a PITA as the front take down pin detent.