Hey all


Finally Completed!




* All of the parts with an * at the end of them were purchased through eBay. All parts were new, were cheaper or if they were not cheaper, came with free shipping that justified the cost difference*

--Parts List:
-Upper:
- BCM Blemished Upper Receiver kit - $75
- BCM Mod A44 Ambidextrous Charging Handle* - $67
- BCM 13" KMR *- $267
- Rainier Arms 14.5" Mid length wylde match series barrel & match gas block
- Rainier Arms XTC Compensator (this will be mailed to R.A. when barrel order is made to be pinned)* $56
- Rainier Arms Nib BCG -$202
- MagPul MBUS* - $89

Lower:
- Aero stripped lower
- PSA LPK w/o FCG* - $54
- ALG Combat Trigger* - $80
- VLTOR 7pos A5 Buffer tube/spring* - $69
- Magpul ACS-L Mil Spec Stock* - $99
- Magpul B.A.D. Lever* - $29
- Magpul MIAD Pistol Grip* - $35
- Magpul MS4 Sling* - $59

Misc:
- BCM Keymod QD Sling attachment* - $18
- Odin Works Keymod 1" light attachment* - $44
- Surefire G2X Pro* - $52
- 2 Sets of Noveske NSR Keymod Rail Covers* - $36

Smithing Tools:
- DPMS Upper Block - $48


Finally Assembled!


Getting it's first rounds through it! (Friend threw his cheap QD scope on it for kicks and giggles before we sighted it in on the iron sights!

 

OK here's my answers to some of your questions

1. I use Royal Purple grease on upper threads, also on rails of BCG. I do not run my rifles soaking wet. I also use the same grease for buffer spring. It makes the spring twang almost non existent. That's just me..

2. On my builds I have never needed an accuwedge or anything. My build are very tight. I use PSA blem uppers. I have mated to 80% lowers ZAK armory lowers and the like. Maybe I'm just lucky.

Ft-lbs and inch-pounds are VERY different scales of torque values

I have never used any VLTOR products. I use Magpul MOE or CTR butt stocks with great success.

I am also a cheapskate! I build great reliable rifles that work every time. I figure start with basics and u can always upgrade down the line.

My .02 cents YMMV

Tony

^^ Thanks guys! Just want confirmation that I'm not doing anything impractical or stupid. I plan on taking the gun to a friend who works for manufacturer and have him take a look over everything once it's all assembled.

Bump for new pictures! Keep in mind, I will be removing the KMR before barrel installation, parts are mocked up because I got excited to have something that resembles a real rifle. I need to send my barrel nut off to Rainier Arms to have them do a pin & weld on their 14.5 for me next week!

Haha never mind I was just going to ask if the barrel was either missing or shorter then the handguard. . Anyway looking good

I like slip ewl it works great on all my rifles

It's looking nice! I too am a new builder and new member of the site. It's been advised to me that the 14.5 barrel with the pin and welded FH may be troublesome in the future if you decided to change your build up. That KMR from BCM is what I'm going with as well. How do you like it?

it is VERY light. I've only had experience with Magpul carbine length handguards, so I can't really compare it to other ar parts. But, its unbelievably light. I figured a heavy/medium profile barrel with this handguard should keep for a really nicely (6-7lb) weighted gun since I'm not going for a lightweight build.

Good to know. I should be ordering mine shortly. I might even wait for the 15" option. I contacted BCM about it a few weeks ago and they have no ETA.

Yeah, I hear that, I almost thought about waiting for it too since a 16" Barrel is much easier to work with if I want to change out the hand guard, etc. But, I made sure I thought long and hard about it and picked a Rainier Arms 14.5" with their pinned XTC Compensator. In a few years, if I buy a suppressor, then I'll pay to switch up the muzzle device.

Very nice

Nice stick. my only concern would be getting something fake from eBay.

i agree with the concern for getting fake crap off ebay, but if you look at seller feedback and everything checks out, you CAN find some great deals on ebay. I have heard of people buying fake crap from gun shows too. Just do your research first and dont just jump on anything you find becuase you see it for half the price. Nice looking rifle BTW.

Looking good! Keep it up! Keep us informed.

I totally agree because, i fell for the trap. Once and only once. Some random guy's eBay description was "Daniel Defense 'Style' front rear sight combo" and well what do ya know, fake. Thank goodness he accepted the return. They still had play once I tightened them onto my BCM KMR. After that, I only bought through eBay stores. Tons of LE or 'tactical' stores that are very reputable, very fast and free shipping and are very close to or cheaper than direct from manufacturers.

ft-lbs and in-lbs.

1 foot pound is a measurement of torque that is equivalent to a 1 lb weight being applied on a lever (torque wrench, breaker bar, chunk of old pipe slipped over your rachet) 1 foot away from the center of rotation. (your barrel nut).

30 to 80 ft lbs required for a barrel nut can be acheived by putting 30 to 80 lbs of force on the end of a 1 foot long rachet or by putting 1 lb of force on the end of a 30-80 foot long rachet (assuming a weightless rachet)

1 inch pound is exactly the same except it would be one pound of force applied to a 1 inch long breaker bar.    So as an earlier poster stated, 1 inch pound is 1/12 of 1 foot pound or inversely 1 foot lb is equal to 12 inch lbs.

Inch pounds are typically used on smaller fasteners because the increments are finer.  The window between over torqued and under torqued is much smaller on a smaller fastener.    

So when tighening a barrel nut, you are looking for 30 to 80 foot lbs, 360 to 960 inch lbs, or for the non 'mericans among us, 40.7 to 108.5 Nm.

HOLY COW. Thank you for the in depth answer to that. I never know so much about torque! This is why I join forums. You learn a little more every day.

Also, idk if this has been mentioned, but when using an extention on a torque wrench you must use a certain formula to achieve the actual torque. Adding length to the wrench gives you a longer lever, which in turn gives you more torque.

use this formula to figure what setting to set your torque wrench at:

[Torque on nut] TIMES [Length of wrench] DIVIDED BY [Length of wrench] PLUS [Effective length of adapter]

So lets say you wanted to torque something 100 in/lbs using a 12" torque wrench and a 6" adapter.
(100*12) / (12+6) = 66.6in/lbs you would set the torque wrench to.

1. Why not use the Aeroshell? You can get it in little tubs from Umbrella Corp. One is MORE than enough and they're like $3. I bought two because I didn't believe all the people who told me one was enough.

5. I have a Vltor A5 system coming for a 16" carbine gas build I'm working on right now. I've never used it before so I have no first hand knowledge, but I read a lot of great reviews. On the other hand, I hate to be the possible bearer of bad news, but when researching the system it seemed like the only people who had problems with the A5 were running it with a 14.5" barrel and midlength gas system. You may want to look into this a bit.

Huh. Any posts you've read about this? I've read some mixed reviews. But, I'm hoping that because I stick with quality stuff, I get a good turn out. Guess we'll see

Bump for new photos! Check out that spent case! pew pew pew!

bump again for finished build photo.

Just waiting for the $$ for a Vortex Viper PST 1-4