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Posted: 3/10/2015 10:55:45 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryWhat's the distance between center of the mounting holes? |
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Posted: 3/10/2015 11:18:47 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What's the distance between center of the mounting holes? Quote HistoryQuoted:
What's the distance between center of the mounting holes? A frogs hair over 3 inches. |
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Posted: 3/16/2015 5:37:30 PM EDT
[#3]
Got my iron sites to finish the build. I had to loosen the handguard to line up the sites then tighten it back down. Anyone else have to do this?
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Posted: 3/17/2015 1:37:39 AM EDT
[#4]
what kind of rail covers are those?
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Posted: 3/17/2015 6:58:03 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
what kind of rail covers are those? Midwest Industries. I stippled and painted them. |
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Posted: 3/17/2015 7:34:46 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Got my iron sites to finish the build. I had to loosen the handguard to line up the sites then tighten it back down. Anyone else have to do this? http://oi57.tinypic.com/o01pxu.jpg What I did to line up the rail was took my red dot and stuck it on the gun so it held both the upper receiver and handguard in alignment. Looks good. |
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Posted: 3/17/2015 8:34:21 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What I did to line up the rail was took my red dot and stuck it on the gun so it held both the upper receiver and handguard in alignment. Looks good. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Got my iron sites to finish the build. I had to loosen the handguard to line up the sites then tighten it back down. Anyone else have to do this? http://oi57.tinypic.com/o01pxu.jpg What I did to line up the rail was took my red dot and stuck it on the gun so it held both the upper receiver and handguard in alignment. Looks good. I used a carry handle to line the rail up. When I put the irons on and tried to use the red dot to zero them I ended up with the rear site aperture almost all the way to the left. I centered the site aperture and loosened the rail mounting screws and twisted the rail over until the front site post lined up with the red dot rear site and tightened the screws back. |
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Posted: 3/18/2015 8:17:58 AM EDT
[#8]
I posted my findings and problems with TRinity Force Ultra Slim rails.
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Posted: 3/18/2015 2:53:07 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Midwest Industries. I stippled and painted them. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
what kind of rail covers are those? Midwest Industries. I stippled and painted them. Thanks I think I can easily convert them to MLOK. I kind of want a set for my Foliage Build. |
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Posted: 3/20/2015 8:32:02 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I posted my findings and problems with TRinity Force Ultra Slim rails. A link or something would've been nice. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_12/669532_Trinity_Force_Ultra_Slim_forend.html&page=1#i6806344 |
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Posted: 3/23/2015 8:08:49 PM EDT
[#11]
I've scanned through and cant find the answer, Will the UTG PRO 4/13 seen here fit on a rifle length gas system with a fixed front sight base like this:
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Posted: 3/23/2015 10:43:33 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I've scanned through and cant find the answer, Will the UTG PRO 4/13 seen here fit on a rifle length gas system with a fixed front sight base like this: http://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/5205/15735.JPG It's 12.5 inches from the front of the upper receiver to the end in the tube. |
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Posted: 3/26/2015 8:48:30 PM EDT
[#13]
Has anyone attempted to put one of the MicroMOA Govnah adjustable gas blocks under the standard non keymod super slim?
I have a 9" on a 10.5" barrel and would like to run one of their blocks if possible. |
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Posted: 3/28/2015 7:18:40 PM EDT
[#14]
This is what I plan to get if I go this route. About $150 shipped at Primary Arms
UTG 4/13 super slim rail Yankee Hill gas block YHM-9383 |
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Posted: 3/29/2015 3:54:32 PM EDT
[#15]
For those of us with pinned uppers, will this rail fit over the flash hider during install?
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Posted: 3/29/2015 9:05:43 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
For those of us with pinned uppers, will this rail fit over the flash hider during install? |
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Posted: 3/29/2015 9:33:58 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It will, but the problem is getting the gas block off, which requires flash hider removal, Why?, because it comes with a proprietary barrel nut that requires gas block (and flash hider) removal. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
For those of us with pinned uppers, will this rail fit over the flash hider during install? I planned on chopping the a2 down. So in other words it wont work 
Reason enough to start a new build then I guess. |
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Posted: 3/30/2015 5:31:00 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I planned on chopping the a2 down. So in other words it wont work
Reason enough to start a new build then I guess. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
For those of us with pinned uppers, will this rail fit over the flash hider during install? I planned on chopping the a2 down. So in other words it wont work
Reason enough to start a new build then I guess. |
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Posted: 3/30/2015 10:33:16 AM EDT
[#19]
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Posted: 3/30/2015 10:01:57 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
An update on the screw hunt...I have 100 titanium screws/bolts made to grade 5 spec in the production chain right now. I expect delivery in 30 days. I can ship packs of 6 out for at costs so I break even on the project if anyone wants a set. The cost will be a lot less than titanium grade 5 screws you can find on the market currently...thinking about $10.00 a set unless something comes up. I've also got an email in to leaders requesting permission and technical data to replicate their barrel nut and locking ring using titanium. If I get approval from leaders I'll get some quotes to do a run of 10 barell nuts and 10 locking rings if there's any intrest here. Quote HistoryQuoted:
An update on the screw hunt...I have 100 titanium screws/bolts made to grade 5 spec in the production chain right now. I expect delivery in 30 days. I can ship packs of 6 out for at costs so I break even on the project if anyone wants a set. The cost will be a lot less than titanium grade 5 screws you can find on the market currently...thinking about $10.00 a set unless something comes up. I've also got an email in to leaders requesting permission and technical data to replicate their barrel nut and locking ring using titanium. If I get approval from leaders I'll get some quotes to do a run of 10 barell nuts and 10 locking rings if there's any intrest here. Look what arrived today: 
I need to do some quality inspection. The allen key opening seems a little on the large side compared to the 2.5mm opening I speced out but it's not large enough for 7/64 or 2.8mm. So far all of the units I tried tightend down fine with a quality 2.5mm allen wrench but I'd hate to send one out that won't. I may reach out to the fab shop to see if they can do another batch for me with better attention to the allen key opening. Otherwise, the titainum bolts that arrived meet the specs outlined by the McMaster Carr website for the Keymod models: Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I recently installed a UTG grip for a bud of mine and had read this thread about the crappy screws. I had sourced some grade 8 from McMaster Carr and used thos. Vince Please share the part number! Wes I have the keymod version, and yes sheared off a screw, too. The screws are CRAP! For the Keymod rail I ordered these: McMaster Carr Keymod rail screws Get these for the regular (non-keymod rail). I believe an earlier post said use 8mm length instead of 6mm. : McMaster Carr Slimline rail screws As you can see, the Keymod uses a modified button head screw with a flange and the regular slimline uses a counter-sunk design screw. At least that is my understanding. Wes |
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Posted: 3/30/2015 11:59:25 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Look what arrived today: http://i59.tinypic.com/25u1cuf.jpg I need to do some quality inspection. The allen key opening seems a little on the large side compared to the 2.5mm opening I speced out but it's not large enough for 7/64 or 2.8mm. So far all of the units I tried tightend down fine with a quality 2.5mm allen wrench but I'd hate to send one out that won't. I may reach out to the fab shop to see if they can do another batch for me with better attention to the allen key opening. Otherwise, the titainum bolts that arrived meet the specs outlined by the McMaster Carr website for the Keymod models: Wes Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
An update on the screw hunt...I have 100 titanium screws/bolts made to grade 5 spec in the production chain right now. I expect delivery in 30 days. I can ship packs of 6 out for at costs so I break even on the project if anyone wants a set. The cost will be a lot less than titanium grade 5 screws you can find on the market currently...thinking about $10.00 a set unless something comes up. I've also got an email in to leaders requesting permission and technical data to replicate their barrel nut and locking ring using titanium. If I get approval from leaders I'll get some quotes to do a run of 10 barell nuts and 10 locking rings if there's any intrest here. Look what arrived today: http://i59.tinypic.com/25u1cuf.jpg I need to do some quality inspection. The allen key opening seems a little on the large side compared to the 2.5mm opening I speced out but it's not large enough for 7/64 or 2.8mm. So far all of the units I tried tightend down fine with a quality 2.5mm allen wrench but I'd hate to send one out that won't. I may reach out to the fab shop to see if they can do another batch for me with better attention to the allen key opening. Otherwise, the titainum bolts that arrived meet the specs outlined by the McMaster Carr website for the Keymod models: Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I recently installed a UTG grip for a bud of mine and had read this thread about the crappy screws. I had sourced some grade 8 from McMaster Carr and used thos. Vince Please share the part number! Wes I have the keymod version, and yes sheared off a screw, too. The screws are CRAP! For the Keymod rail I ordered these: McMaster Carr Keymod rail screws Get these for the regular (non-keymod rail). I believe an earlier post said use 8mm length instead of 6mm. : McMaster Carr Slimline rail screws As you can see, the Keymod uses a modified button head screw with a flange and the regular slimline uses a counter-sunk design screw. At least that is my understanding. Wes how well do those screws fit into the recessed screw holes on the handguard? |
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Posted: 3/31/2015 8:13:05 AM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
how well do those screws fit into the recessed screw holes on the handguard? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
An update on the screw hunt...I have 100 titanium screws/bolts made to grade 5 spec in the production chain right now. I expect delivery in 30 days. I can ship packs of 6 out for at costs so I break even on the project if anyone wants a set. The cost will be a lot less than titanium grade 5 screws you can find on the market currently...thinking about $10.00 a set unless something comes up. I've also got an email in to leaders requesting permission and technical data to replicate their barrel nut and locking ring using titanium. If I get approval from leaders I'll get some quotes to do a run of 10 barell nuts and 10 locking rings if there's any intrest here. Look what arrived today: http://i59.tinypic.com/25u1cuf.jpg I need to do some quality inspection. The allen key opening seems a little on the large side compared to the 2.5mm opening I speced out but it's not large enough for 7/64 or 2.8mm. So far all of the units I tried tightend down fine with a quality 2.5mm allen wrench but I'd hate to send one out that won't. I may reach out to the fab shop to see if they can do another batch for me with better attention to the allen key opening. Otherwise, the titainum bolts that arrived meet the specs outlined by the McMaster Carr website for the Keymod models: Quoted:
I have the keymod version, and yes sheared off a screw, too. The screws are CRAP! For the Keymod rail I ordered these: McMaster Carr Keymod rail screws Get these for the regular (non-keymod rail). I believe an earlier post said use 8mm length instead of 6mm. : McMaster Carr Slimline rail screws As you can see, the Keymod uses a modified button head screw with a flange and the regular slimline uses a counter-sunk design screw. At least that is my understanding. Wes how well do those screws fit into the recessed screw holes on the handguard? Are you referring to how they fit on the free float tube or how they fit in the barrel nut assembly. The free float tube is flat on the keymod version and the screws are a different spec on the keymod version. There is no recessed area for the screw hole. You would need the other spec screws listed in that second quote I posted. If there's enough intrest in the other standard key mod slim model screws I can get a batch of those made as well. I can also request a black anodized finish but I am not sure how the price would be impacted. Again, not trying to make money, just trying to help out fellow members. Wes |
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Posted: 4/2/2015 12:04:38 PM EDT
[#23]
I have installed 6 or 7 of these now. I personally have the Super Slim on two SBR's, my 3-gun rifle, my daughter's AR, and the "house spare." (All non-keymod, BTW). I've never had a problem with the screws either stripping or jammed threads or anything, but I do look at the screws as "one time use." If I have to remove the rail for any reason, I replace the screws with new ones from my stash. The give you a shitload, and since I don't use the add-on rails, and since I bought 5 of the things, I have a lot of screws left over.
Since reading the last few entries in this thread, I ordered some of the McMaster-Carr ones (really, $4.59/1K?), and if I ever remove any of the screws in the future, I'll use the new screws. BTW, the Hitler video is hilarious. That meme never gets old. |
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Posted: 4/8/2015 8:54:47 PM EDT
[#24]
My MicroMOA Govnah showed up and I installed it this afternoon. It just barely fits under the rail, but the regulator plate was hitting when in the two outside positions.
I ended up cutting out one of the support pieces between the upper rail openings. If you have access to a mill it would be cleaner to just extend the forward opening rather than removing the whole section. 
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Posted: 4/20/2015 3:19:51 PM EDT
[#25]
Here are the MI panels on a 9" super slim. The Govnah was pushing gas onto my hand so these should help block some of it.
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Posted: 4/21/2015 7:19:29 AM EDT
[#26]
This may be a thread reroute but I tried the Guntec handguards and they seem to work fine. I have two rifles with the UTG Pro handguards and they are also fine. I got the Guntec handguards first in 12" which was too short for a rifle length gas system -- left a fair gap between the gas block and the handguard. I then got the 15" handguard that covered the low profile gas block just fine. The difference between the UTG and the Guntec is the Guntec barrel nut must be adjusted ever so slightly to get the handguard screw holes in the right position. The UTG is much easier but I got the two Guntec handguards from Midsouth Shooters for less than $80 each. These are test rifles so I was not wanting to spend a lot for FF handguards.
One test rifle with the Guntec 15" handguard. 
It's good and solid and any low profile block will fit under it. |
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Posted: 4/21/2015 8:28:16 AM EDT
[#27]
so are the screws threading into the barrel nut or jamming against it ?
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Posted: 4/21/2015 11:31:17 AM EDT
[#28]
Are you asking about the MI panels screws or those for the Guntec rail mentioned above?
If the panel screws, the rear set have to be shortened just a very small amount to keep from contacting the barrel nut. They will tighten and hold the panel without shortening but I thought it best to not push on the barrel nut. |
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Posted: 4/21/2015 11:54:38 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Are you asking about the MI panels screws or those for the Guntec rail mentioned above? If the panel screws, the rear set have to be shortened just a very small amount to keep from contacting the barrel nut. They will tighten and hold the panel without shortening but I thought it best to not push on the barrel nut. my bad , the Guntec |
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Posted: 4/27/2015 9:42:01 AM EDT
[#30]
are those guntec rails made in the USA?
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Posted: 4/27/2015 10:45:09 AM EDT
[#31]
Here the 7" version on my last assembly. I really like it, very light.
Best price I found was on eBay, 84.99 shipped. I've found the lowest price around was on eBay for quite a few parts lately... 
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Posted: 4/27/2015 11:19:19 AM EDT
[#32]
^Wow, they really look good on AR pistol builds. very clean looking. Nice
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Posted: 4/27/2015 8:24:13 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Here the 7" version on my last assembly. I really like it, very light. Best price I found was on eBay, 84.99 shipped. I've found the lowest price around was on eBay for quite a few parts lately... <a href="http://s37.photobucket.com/user/bikedamon/media/arfcom/image.jpg1_zpsqswcifrk.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e59/bikedamon/arfcom/image.jpg1_zpsqswcifrk.jpg</a> Looks good Here is a similar SBR in 300 blackout I finished up a while back. 
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Posted: 4/28/2015 12:12:14 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Looks good Here is a similar SBR in 300 blackout I finished up a while back. http://i.imgur.com/mtnsXCl.jpg?1 Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Here the 7" version on my last assembly. I really like it, very light. Best price I found was on eBay, 84.99 shipped. I've found the lowest price around was on eBay for quite a few parts lately... <a href="http://s37.photobucket.com/user/bikedamon/media/arfcom/image.jpg1_zpsqswcifrk.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e59/bikedamon/arfcom/image.jpg1_zpsqswcifrk.jpg</a> Looks good Here is a similar SBR in 300 blackout I finished up a while back. http://i.imgur.com/mtnsXCl.jpg?1 Those Daniel Defense fixed sites are nice, eh? |
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Posted: 4/28/2015 4:00:27 PM EDT
[#35]
I really like them and have used them on a few uppers now. I think they are some of the lightest weight available.
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Posted: 4/29/2015 1:36:47 PM EDT
[#36]
I just bought a 9" SUPER SLIM.
Is there any way to tell if the screws are good ? Should I buy new screws just to be sure ? . . |
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Posted: 4/29/2015 4:21:34 PM EDT
[#37]
I believe it is primarily the keymod version people have the screw issues with. I have never had an issue with the screws used on the normal super slim.
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Posted: 4/29/2015 10:08:43 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I believe it is primarily the keymod version people have the screw issues with. I have never had an issue with the screws used on the normal super slim. never had a screw issue either with the regular super slim |
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Posted: 4/29/2015 10:29:53 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This may be a thread reroute but I tried the Guntec handguards and they seem to work fine. I have two rifles with the UTG Pro handguards and they are also fine. I got the Guntec handguards first in 12" which was too short for a rifle length gas system -- left a fair gap between the gas block and the handguard. I then got the 15" handguard that covered the low profile gas block just fine. The difference between the UTG and the Guntec is the Guntec barrel nut must be adjusted ever so slightly to get the handguard screw holes in the right position. The UTG is much easier but I got the two Guntec handguards from Midsouth Shooters for less than $80 each. These are test rifles so I was not wanting to spend a lot for FF handguards. One test rifle with the Guntec 15" handguard. http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x205/22_boomer/100_7943_zpsgjj6ah8m.jpg It's good and solid and any low profile block will fit under it. The barrel nut adjustment is what I don't like about those handguards. It has to be dead center to work with iron sights. The UTG rail allows the barrel nut to be properly torqued and then has enough play to let you mechanically zero you sights. |
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Posted: 4/29/2015 10:35:30 PM EDT
[#40]
Has this handguard ever been drop tested to see if it will shift. Everything depends on the friction of the locking collar to the barrel nut. The anti rotation tabs will only keep it from unspinning the barrel nut.
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Posted: 4/29/2015 10:39:41 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
never had a screw issue either with the regular super slim Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I believe it is primarily the keymod version people have the screw issues with. I have never had an issue with the screws used on the normal super slim. never had a screw issue either with the regular super slim meh , I think it's the 2 ft pounds of torgue that people can't wrap their heads around.. |
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Posted: 4/29/2015 11:07:57 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Has this handguard ever been drop tested to see if it will shift. Everything depends on the friction of the locking collar to the barrel nut. The anti rotation tabs will only keep it from unspinning the barrel nut. Are you asking about the Super Slim? The anti-rotation tabs have nothing to do with the barrel but. They sit on the outside of the receiver, and effectively prevent the rail from spinning. |
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Posted: 4/29/2015 11:08:54 PM EDT
[#43]
Where is the best place to buy the Super Slim?
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Posted: 4/30/2015 10:35:22 AM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Where is the best place to buy the Super Slim? Best price I found was on eBay. |
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Posted: 4/30/2015 3:38:22 PM EDT
[#45]
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Posted: 4/30/2015 3:45:46 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Are you asking about the Super Slim? The anti-rotation tabs have nothing to do with the barrel but. They sit on the outside of the receiver, and effectively prevent the rail from spinning. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Has this handguard ever been drop tested to see if it will shift. Everything depends on the friction of the locking collar to the barrel nut. The anti rotation tabs will only keep it from unspinning the barrel nut. Are you asking about the Super Slim? The anti-rotation tabs have nothing to do with the barrel but. They sit on the outside of the receiver, and effectively prevent the rail from spinning. There is some rotational play in the tube before the screws are tightened down. The tabs keep the the tube from spinning the barrel nut off. The locking collar that sits inside the barrel nut keeps the tube from moving via friction. My question is has anyone experienced a POA/POI shift from dropping the rifle because the locking ring shifted slightly inside of the barrel nut? |
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Posted: 4/30/2015 8:50:36 PM EDT
[#47]
Working on my 6.8 build and I'd like to use another UTG Super Slim rail. Does anyone know if Leapers makes a non keymod rail in gunmetal gray or is it only the keymods that come in that color?
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Posted: 5/6/2015 3:00:19 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
There is some rotational play in the tube before the screws are tightened down. The tabs keep the the tube from spinning the barrel nut off. The locking collar that sits inside the barrel nut keeps the tube from moving via friction. My question is has anyone experienced a POA/POI shift from dropping the rifle because the locking ring shifted slightly inside of the barrel nut? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Has this handguard ever been drop tested to see if it will shift. Everything depends on the friction of the locking collar to the barrel nut. The anti rotation tabs will only keep it from unspinning the barrel nut. Are you asking about the Super Slim? The anti-rotation tabs have nothing to do with the barrel but. They sit on the outside of the receiver, and effectively prevent the rail from spinning. There is some rotational play in the tube before the screws are tightened down. The tabs keep the the tube from spinning the barrel nut off. The locking collar that sits inside the barrel nut keeps the tube from moving via friction. My question is has anyone experienced a POA/POI shift from dropping the rifle because the locking ring shifted slightly inside of the barrel nut? I have one and after it falling and knocking against door frames a few times i noticed that I would lose cowitness. I zeroed everything together and squeezed with my fingers pulling the barrel and my palm on the rail From both sides and realized something was giving. I would lose cowitness to one side by about 5 clicks of the rear sight. I decided to take off the rail and re-snug the Screws and when I did I found one of my screws to be stripped. I got a new locking ring and screws on the way. Hopefully that will fix it. If not I'm going back to the d ring and pinned sight. |
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Posted: 5/6/2015 10:43:12 PM EDT
[#49]
When can we expect to get quick disconnect sling rail attachments for this?
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Posted: 5/7/2015 6:18:40 AM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I have one and after it falling and knocking against door frames a few times i noticed that I would lose cowitness. I zeroed everything together and squeezed with my fingers pulling the barrel and my palm on the rail From both sides and realized something was giving. I would lose cowitness to one side by about 5 clicks of the rear sight. I decided to take off the rail and re-snug the Screws and when I did I found one of my screws to be stripped. I got a new locking ring and screws on the way. Hopefully that will fix it. If not I'm going back to the d ring and pinned sight. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Has this handguard ever been drop tested to see if it will shift. Everything depends on the friction of the locking collar to the barrel nut. The anti rotation tabs will only keep it from unspinning the barrel nut. Are you asking about the Super Slim? The anti-rotation tabs have nothing to do with the barrel but. They sit on the outside of the receiver, and effectively prevent the rail from spinning. There is some rotational play in the tube before the screws are tightened down. The tabs keep the the tube from spinning the barrel nut off. The locking collar that sits inside the barrel nut keeps the tube from moving via friction. My question is has anyone experienced a POA/POI shift from dropping the rifle because the locking ring shifted slightly inside of the barrel nut? I have one and after it falling and knocking against door frames a few times i noticed that I would lose cowitness. I zeroed everything together and squeezed with my fingers pulling the barrel and my palm on the rail From both sides and realized something was giving. I would lose cowitness to one side by about 5 clicks of the rear sight. I decided to take off the rail and re-snug the Screws and when I did I found one of my screws to be stripped. I got a new locking ring and screws on the way. Hopefully that will fix it. If not I'm going back to the d ring and pinned sight. Wow. I pretty much beat the shit out of my SBRs with the rail, and they've never even flexed. Even my 3-gun AR with the 15" rail gets banged around a lot, and I've never had the zero on the 'scope shift. |
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