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Link Posted: 2/28/2015 9:33:47 AM EDT
[#1]
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Quoted:
Any interest in a titanium barrel nut assembly for these?

Wes
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What's the weight savings
Link Posted: 2/28/2015 10:25:30 AM EDT
[#2]
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Quoted:


What's the weight savings
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Any interest in a titanium barrel nut assembly for these?

Wes


What's the weight savings

Not sure yet, but the existing two piece steel design feels excessively heavy.

Wes
Link Posted: 2/28/2015 11:06:14 AM EDT
[#3]
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Quoted:

Please share the part number!

Wes
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I recently installed a UTG grip for a bud of mine and had read this thread about the crappy screws. I had sourced some grade 8 from McMaster Carr and used thos.

Vince

Please share the part number!

Wes

I have the keymod version, and yes sheared off a screw, too. The screws are CRAP!

For the Keymod rail I ordered these: McMaster Carr Keymod rail screws

Get these for the regular (non-keymod rail). I believe an earlier post said use 8mm length instead of 6mm. : McMaster Carr Slimline rail screws

As you can see, the Keymod uses a modified button head screw with a flange and the regular slimline uses a counter-sunk design screw. At least that is my understanding.
Link Posted: 2/28/2015 11:11:58 AM EDT
[#4]
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Quoted:

I have the keymod version, and yes sheared off a screw, too. The screws are CRAP!

For the Keymod rail I ordered these: McMaster Carr Keymod rail screws
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I recently installed a UTG grip for a bud of mine and had read this thread about the crappy screws. I had sourced some grade 8 from McMaster Carr and used thos.

Vince

Please share the part number!

Wes

I have the keymod version, and yes sheared off a screw, too. The screws are CRAP!

For the Keymod rail I ordered these: McMaster Carr Keymod rail screws


How do they fit in the recess?
Link Posted: 2/28/2015 11:13:29 AM EDT
[#5]
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Quoted:


How do they fit in the recess?
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I recently installed a UTG grip for a bud of mine and had read this thread about the crappy screws. I had sourced some grade 8 from McMaster Carr and used thos.

Vince

Please share the part number!

Wes

I have the keymod version, and yes sheared off a screw, too. The screws are CRAP!

For the Keymod rail I ordered these: McMaster Carr Keymod rail screws


How do they fit in the recess?

They don't, read my post above. I was still editing to explain.
Link Posted: 2/28/2015 11:15:11 AM EDT
[#6]
Trying to get the link back. Hold on.
Link Posted: 2/28/2015 11:22:37 AM EDT
[#7]
Link to non keymod rail screw: Screw for slimline non-keymod rail

You get 25 screws, but that was fine by me as I have these rails on 4 AR's. There are 6 screws per rail. 25 screws cost about $10, but the killer was the $10 shipping. Oh well, until the supplied screws are improved, get these. PS, I did not go gorilla on mine, they are super soft and crappy screws.
Link Posted: 2/28/2015 11:25:14 AM EDT
[#8]
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Quoted:

They don't, read my post above. I was still editing to explain.
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Quoted:
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I recently installed a UTG grip for a bud of mine and had read this thread about the crappy screws. I had sourced some grade 8 from McMaster Carr and used thos.

Vince

Please share the part number!

Wes

I have the keymod version, and yes sheared off a screw, too. The screws are CRAP!

For the Keymod rail I ordered these: McMaster Carr Keymod rail screws


How do they fit in the recess?

They don't, read my post above. I was still editing to explain.

OK I reread your post. I'll order some of the ones you wrote about in your edited post. That was me who said to use 8mm length because I've been researching this as well.
Link Posted: 2/28/2015 11:30:43 AM EDT
[#9]
My local ace hardware had the countersunk screws for sbout 50 cents each. But the keymod type requires a bigger button-head than what they sell. They would work, but I am picky and wanted the same head diameter ( which is 9.4 mm) - on the Keymod version.
The keymod screws I needed were about $10 per pack of 25.
However, the counter-sunk ones are available for $4.59 per 100.

PS: If you find that the 8mm length is too long, you can always dremel or grind them back to 6mm. Or just order 6mm and 8mm to be sure.

It is a hassle to have to reverse engineer this product. If resources were not limited I would just go BCM KMR and forget this rail! But, at less than half the price of the BCM KMR, it is not that bad.
Link Posted: 2/28/2015 12:23:18 PM EDT
[#10]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
My local ace hardware had the countersunk screws for sbout 50 cents each. But the keymod type requires a bigger button-head than what they sell. They would work, but I am picky and wanted the same head diameter ( which is 9.4 mm) - on the Keymod version.
The keymod screws I needed were about $10 per pack of 25.
However, the counter-sunk ones are available for $4.59 per 100.

PS: If you find that the 8mm length is too long, you can always dremel or grind them back to 6mm. Or just order 6mm and 8mm to be sure.

It is a hassle to have to reverse engineer this product. If resources were not limited I would just go BCM KMR and forget this rail! But, at less than half the price of the BCM KMR, it is not that bad.
View Quote


6mm is definitely too short. 8mm is a little long but should be doable. I don't know of anyone who makes a 7mm length screw.
Link Posted: 2/28/2015 1:19:31 PM EDT
[#11]
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Quoted:


6mm is definitely too short. 8mm is a little long but should be doable. I don't know of anyone who makes a 7mm length screw.
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Quoted:
Quoted:
My local ace hardware had the countersunk screws for sbout 50 cents each. But the keymod type requires a bigger button-head than what they sell. They would work, but I am picky and wanted the same head diameter ( which is 9.4 mm) - on the Keymod version.
The keymod screws I needed were about $10 per pack of 25.
However, the counter-sunk ones are available for $4.59 per 100.

PS: If you find that the 8mm length is too long, you can always dremel or grind them back to 6mm. Or just order 6mm and 8mm to be sure.

It is a hassle to have to reverse engineer this product. If resources were not limited I would just go BCM KMR and forget this rail! But, at less than half the price of the BCM KMR, it is not that bad.


6mm is definitely too short. 8mm is a little long but should be doable. I don't know of anyone who makes a 7mm length screw.



Hey Tallest, I don't want to sound like too much of a cheap ass but if you are close enough to me are you interested in splitting a box/bag of 100 8mm screws. I have a non-keymod rail sitting here waiting on a barrel.

Link Posted: 2/28/2015 5:57:23 PM EDT
[#12]
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Quoted:



Hey Tallest, I don't want to sound like too much of a cheap ass but if you are close enough to me are you interested in splitting a box/bag of 100 8mm screws. I have a non-keymod rail sitting here waiting on a barrel.

View Quote View All Quotes
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
My local ace hardware had the countersunk screws for sbout 50 cents each. But the keymod type requires a bigger button-head than what they sell. They would work, but I am picky and wanted the same head diameter ( which is 9.4 mm) - on the Keymod version.
The keymod screws I needed were about $10 per pack of 25.
However, the counter-sunk ones are available for $4.59 per 100.

PS: If you find that the 8mm length is too long, you can always dremel or grind them back to 6mm. Or just order 6mm and 8mm to be sure.

It is a hassle to have to reverse engineer this product. If resources were not limited I would just go BCM KMR and forget this rail! But, at less than half the price of the BCM KMR, it is not that bad.


6mm is definitely too short. 8mm is a little long but should be doable. I don't know of anyone who makes a 7mm length screw.



Hey Tallest, I don't want to sound like too much of a cheap ass but if you are close enough to me are you interested in splitting a box/bag of 100 8mm screws. I have a non-keymod rail sitting here waiting on a barrel.



Yeah, I'll split a bag/box. Lemme know how you want to do this.
Link Posted: 2/28/2015 6:52:53 PM EDT
[#13]
The length on the keymod model bolts must be exactly as long as UTG sent.  Any shorter and you don't have enough thread engagement.  Any longer and the bilts will be tightened into your barrel.  I fact, the final tightening of bolts that are just a hair to long may be resulting in the existing bolts bottoming out and the remaining torque as people snug up is then concentrated where the fastener head and shaft come together, ending with the head shearing off the bolt.

Wes
Link Posted: 2/28/2015 6:57:49 PM EDT
[#14]
Just ordered a 15" will post pics and reviews on my build when it arrives
Link Posted: 2/28/2015 7:50:31 PM EDT
[#15]
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Quoted:
Just ordered a 15" will post pics and reviews on my build when it arrives
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Just don't over tighten the bolts and things will be great
Link Posted: 2/28/2015 7:54:15 PM EDT
[#16]
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Quoted:
The length on the keymod model bolts must be exactly as long as UTG sent.  Any shorter and you don't have enough thread engagement.  Any longer and the bilts will be tightened into your barrel.  I fact, the final tightening of bolts that are just a hair to long may be resulting in the existing bolts bottoming out and the remaining torque as people snug up is then concentrated where the fastener head and shaft come together, ending with the head shearing off the bolt.

Wes
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Yes, all that is true, except it is the FACTORY screws that are crap and twist off way before any barrel contact - just to clarify. And, they do it with a lot less effort than anyone would think. I have assembled approximately 50 AR's in the last couple of years, and these are the worst screws ever.
Link Posted: 2/28/2015 8:38:15 PM EDT
[#17]
Anybody got the specs for the screws?
Link Posted: 2/28/2015 8:50:21 PM EDT
[#18]
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Well they need to figure out a way to extract the broken screws out of the mounting collar. I have 2 stuck and tried extracting but got nothing. I'm gonna have to end up milling out the screws.

They just pulled apart. Shitty screw casting.

IMO they should be using some grade8 premium stuff like magpul uses.


View Quote


I know I'm late, but what you need is something like this:
http://smile.amazon.com/Ultra-Tool-Combined-Countersink-Uncoated/dp/B007KAX8SO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1425170546&sr=8-5&keywords=carbide+drill+point+countersink+1%2F8

Yes, I know what they are for, but you need something that won't walk, and these are too rigid to bend on you.  You don't need one large enough to completely cut away the screw shank, just to start a divot for a stub drill bit to start cutting.

I used a torque wrench set to whatever the instructions said, which I think was 25 inch-pounds, which isn't much of anything, really.
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-inch-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-2696.html
You'll also need a metric hex bit and adapter.
http://www.harborfreight.com/100-piece-security-bit-set-68457.html
Link Posted: 2/28/2015 9:08:03 PM EDT
[#19]
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Quoted:
Anybody got the specs for the screws?
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Third post from the top on this page has a link for them and if you go back several pages I had the sizes of the screws if you wanted to source them yourself.
Link Posted: 2/28/2015 9:11:00 PM EDT
[#20]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


I know I'm late, but what you need is something like this:
http://smile.amazon.com/Ultra-Tool-Combined-Countersink-Uncoated/dp/B007KAX8SO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1425170546&sr=8-5&keywords=carbide+drill+point+countersink+1%2F8

Yes, I know what they are for, but you need something that won't walk, and these are too rigid to bend on you.  You don't need one large enough to completely cut away the screw, just to start a divot for a drill bit to start cutting.

I used a torque wrench set to whatever the instructions said, which I think was 12 inch-pounds, which isn't much of anything, really.
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-inch-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-2696.html
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Quoted:
Well they need to figure out a way to extract the broken screws out of the mounting collar. I have 2 stuck and tried extracting but got nothing. I'm gonna have to end up milling out the screws.

They just pulled apart. Shitty screw casting.

IMO they should be using some grade8 premium stuff like magpul uses.

http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/i439/Jhart1545/IMG_0751_zpsflwwylfl.jpg


I know I'm late, but what you need is something like this:
http://smile.amazon.com/Ultra-Tool-Combined-Countersink-Uncoated/dp/B007KAX8SO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1425170546&sr=8-5&keywords=carbide+drill+point+countersink+1%2F8

Yes, I know what they are for, but you need something that won't walk, and these are too rigid to bend on you.  You don't need one large enough to completely cut away the screw, just to start a divot for a drill bit to start cutting.

I used a torque wrench set to whatever the instructions said, which I think was 12 inch-pounds, which isn't much of anything, really.
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-inch-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-2696.html


This was already posted and he said he was breaking them , junk soft screws and your breaking these carbide spotting countersink bits , dosen't make since  Yes the screws aren't the best but there isn't any reason to crank them down hard enough to shear them
Link Posted: 2/28/2015 9:24:58 PM EDT
[#21]
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Quoted:
This was already posted and he said he was breaking them , junk soft screws and your breaking these carbide spotting countersink bits , dosen't make since  Yes the screws aren't the best but there isn't any reason to crank them down hard enough to shear them
View Quote


I didn't click the link in your post on page 21.  My bad.
Link Posted: 2/28/2015 11:36:30 PM EDT
[#22]




























Didn't know if you guys had seen this...  

Apparently caused quite a stir over on carolinashootersclub.com lol.

I've read that there are some junk versions of these rails out there, anyone have a suggestion for good supplier of the real USA made Pro version?

Thanks
Link Posted: 3/1/2015 1:00:22 AM EDT
[#23]
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Quoted:
Didn't know if you guys had seen this...  

I've read that there are some junk versions of these rails out there, anyone have a suggestion for good supplier of the real USA made Pro version?

Thanks
View Quote


Found the Hitler vid earlier today.

There are knock-offs of the Keymod version.  Word is that the barrel nut isn't as good.

The UTG Pro Slim handguards that you screw rails onto, are available pretty cheap on Amazon and eBay.  

The Keymod versions are harder to find on the cheap, particularly if you want anything other than the 15" version.  I have seen the 13" Keymod for around $125, but they have either gone out of stock, or the prices got jacked up.  I'm guessing you probably don't want to buy from Lower Than Dirt.
Link Posted: 3/1/2015 1:42:44 AM EDT
[#24]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Found the Hitler vid earlier today.

There are knock-offs of the Keymod version.  Word is that the barrel nut isn't as good.

The UTG Pro Slim handguards that you screw rails onto, are available pretty cheap on Amazon and eBay.  

The Keymod versions are harder to find on the cheap, particularly if you want anything other than the 15" version.  I have seen the 13" Keymod for around $125, but they have either gone out of stock, or the prices got jacked up.  I'm guessing you probably don't want to buy from Lower Than Dirt.
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Didn't know if you guys had seen this...  

I've read that there are some junk versions of these rails out there, anyone have a suggestion for good supplier of the real USA made Pro version?

Thanks


Found the Hitler vid earlier today.

There are knock-offs of the Keymod version.  Word is that the barrel nut isn't as good.

The UTG Pro Slim handguards that you screw rails onto, are available pretty cheap on Amazon and eBay.  

The Keymod versions are harder to find on the cheap, particularly if you want anything other than the 15" version.  I have seen the 13" Keymod for around $125, but they have either gone out of stock, or the prices got jacked up.  I'm guessing you probably don't want to buy from Lower Than Dirt.


That's what I was finding goggling around, thought maybe someone had the scoop.

Not unless it was life or death, even the it'd be questionable lol, they already jumped on the current "crisis", with regards to the M855 ban and ensuing ammo shortage.

I guess I'll forgo the keypad and order the older version.

Thanks for the reply
Link Posted: 3/1/2015 6:31:04 AM EDT
[#25]
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Quoted:

snip

Didn't know if you guys had seen this...  

Apparently caused quite a stir over on carolinashootersclub.com lol.

I've read that there are some junk versions of these rails out there, anyone have a suggestion for good supplier of the real USA made Pro version?

Thanks
View Quote


Mike Trinity Force does a knock off, the float tube is actually a little nicer but the barrel nut set up isn't as nice
Link Posted: 3/1/2015 6:54:42 AM EDT
[#26]
UTG= Leapers.

Pot metal junk.

Txl
Link Posted: 3/1/2015 10:50:34 AM EDT
[#27]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Mike Trinity Force does a knock off, the float tube is actually a little nicer but the barrel nut set up isn't as nice
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Quoted:
Quoted:

snip

Didn't know if you guys had seen this...  

Apparently caused quite a stir over on carolinashootersclub.com lol.

I've read that there are some junk versions of these rails out there, anyone have a suggestion for good supplier of the real USA made Pro version?

Thanks


Mike Trinity Force does a knock off, the float tube is actually a little nicer but the barrel nut set up isn't as nice


I assume it's branded as trinity force or not branded at all?

There are a few products on Amazon that look like the UTG Pro products but on close examination you'll find a slight variations in the name and product description, along with no mention of the UTG Pro sku numbers.  They are sold by various third party sellers, some who will reply and tell you it's not a UTG Pro product, but most will never respond, hoping you'll buy and be happy even if it's not exactly what you hoped for.

Wes
Link Posted: 3/1/2015 11:51:40 AM EDT
[#28]
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Quoted:
UTG= Leapers.

Pot metal junk.

Txl
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Thanks for the contribution, now go back to GD
Link Posted: 3/1/2015 2:13:19 PM EDT
[#29]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


This was already posted and he said he was breaking them , junk soft screws and your breaking these carbide spotting countersink bits , dosen't make since  Yes the screws aren't the best but there isn't any reason to crank them down hard enough to shear them
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Well they need to figure out a way to extract the broken screws out of the mounting collar. I have 2 stuck and tried extracting but got nothing. I'm gonna have to end up milling out the screws.

They just pulled apart. Shitty screw casting.

IMO they should be using some grade8 premium stuff like magpul uses.

http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/i439/Jhart1545/IMG_0751_zpsflwwylfl.jpg


I know I'm late, but what you need is something like this:
http://smile.amazon.com/Ultra-Tool-Combined-Countersink-Uncoated/dp/B007KAX8SO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1425170546&sr=8-5&keywords=carbide+drill+point+countersink+1%2F8

Yes, I know what they are for, but you need something that won't walk, and these are too rigid to bend on you.  You don't need one large enough to completely cut away the screw, just to start a divot for a drill bit to start cutting.

I used a torque wrench set to whatever the instructions said, which I think was 12 inch-pounds, which isn't much of anything, really.
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-inch-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-2696.html


This was already posted and he said he was breaking them , junk soft screws and your breaking these carbide spotting countersink bits , dosen't make since  Yes the screws aren't the best but there isn't any reason to crank them down hard enough to shear them



I ended up having to use a dremel cut off wheel to cut a slot into what was left of the screw shank. That worked, yes i had to get into the rail a little bit but it was minimal.

I ended up finding some screws that had teh same thread pitch but like other was nowhere near wide enough to provide positive engagement. so i just got a few longer ones and used flat washers, it was janky and ghetto but it worked.

I had a conversation with Paul at UTG/Leapers and from what i was told they are a custom screw. So i can see where there would be a learning curve and issues with engineering.

I am a Fluid Power Technician by trade so i am extremely competent and experiences with putting delicate shit together. These were not over tightened, just really shitty screws.

I have a new rail on the way so I am a happy camper. I dont mind being a test foundation for others it it results in a better product in the long run.
Link Posted: 3/1/2015 7:45:03 PM EDT
[#30]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:



I ended up having to use a dremel cut off wheel to cut a slot into what was left of the screw shank. That worked, yes i had to get into the rail a little bit but it was minimal.

I ended up finding some screws that had teh same thread pitch but like other was nowhere near wide enough to provide positive engagement. so i just got a few longer ones and used flat washers, it was janky and ghetto but it worked.

I had a conversation with Paul at UTG/Leapers and from what i was told they are a custom screw. So i can see where there would be a learning curve and issues with engineering.

I am a Fluid Power Technician by trade so i am extremely competent and experiences with putting delicate shit together. These were not over tightened, just really shitty screws.

I have a new rail on the way so I am a happy camper. I dont mind being a test foundation for others it it results in a better product in the long run.
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Well they need to figure out a way to extract the broken screws out of the mounting collar. I have 2 stuck and tried extracting but got nothing. I'm gonna have to end up milling out the screws.

They just pulled apart. Shitty screw casting.

IMO they should be using some grade8 premium stuff like magpul uses.

http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/i439/Jhart1545/IMG_0751_zpsflwwylfl.jpg


I know I'm late, but what you need is something like this:
http://smile.amazon.com/Ultra-Tool-Combined-Countersink-Uncoated/dp/B007KAX8SO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1425170546&sr=8-5&keywords=carbide+drill+point+countersink+1%2F8

Yes, I know what they are for, but you need something that won't walk, and these are too rigid to bend on you.  You don't need one large enough to completely cut away the screw, just to start a divot for a drill bit to start cutting.

I used a torque wrench set to whatever the instructions said, which I think was 12 inch-pounds, which isn't much of anything, really.
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-inch-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-2696.html


This was already posted and he said he was breaking them , junk soft screws and your breaking these carbide spotting countersink bits , dosen't make since  Yes the screws aren't the best but there isn't any reason to crank them down hard enough to shear them



I ended up having to use a dremel cut off wheel to cut a slot into what was left of the screw shank. That worked, yes i had to get into the rail a little bit but it was minimal.

I ended up finding some screws that had teh same thread pitch but like other was nowhere near wide enough to provide positive engagement. so i just got a few longer ones and used flat washers, it was janky and ghetto but it worked.

I had a conversation with Paul at UTG/Leapers and from what i was told they are a custom screw. So i can see where there would be a learning curve and issues with engineering.

I am a Fluid Power Technician by trade so i am extremely competent and experiences with putting delicate shit together. These were not over tightened, just really shitty screws.

I have a new rail on the way so I am a happy camper. I dont mind being a test foundation for others it it results in a better product in the long run.

Thank you! So, it IS the screw quality and not some newbie over-tightening the screws. Let's finally lay that assertion to rest.
Link Posted: 3/4/2015 1:21:34 PM EDT
[#31]
Do magpul xtm rail covers fit on the short rails it comes with?
Link Posted: 3/4/2015 8:57:52 PM EDT
[#32]
An update on the screw hunt...I have 100 titanium screws/bolts made to grade 5 spec in the production chain right now.  I expect delivery in 30 days.  I can ship packs of 6 out for at costs so I break even on the project if anyone wants a set.  The cost will be a lot less than titanium grade 5 screws you can find on the market currently...thinking about $10.00 a set unless something comes up.

I've also got an email in to leaders requesting permission and technical data to replicate their barrel nut and locking ring using titanium.  If I get approval from leaders I'll get some quotes to do a run of 10 barell nuts and 10 locking rings if there's any intrest here.
Link Posted: 3/4/2015 9:13:02 PM EDT
[#33]
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Quoted:
An update on the screw hunt...I have 100 titanium screws/bolts made to grade 5 spec in the production chain right now.  I expect delivery in 30 days.  I can ship packs of 6 out for at costs so I break even on the project if anyone wants a set.  The cost will be a lot less than titanium grade 5 screws you can find on the market currently...thinking about $10.00 a set unless something comes up.

I've also got an email in to leaders requesting permission and technical data to replicate their barrel nut and locking ring using titanium.  If I get approval from leaders I'll get some quotes to do a run of 10 barell nuts and 10 locking rings if there's any intrest here.
View Quote



I've been having phone conversations with their engineer over the screw matter. We are pretty much on the agreement that its hydrogen imbrittlement from the manufacturing process. I think they might be outsourcing something different.

As far as the titanium screws I'm down for some as long as they are identical. Titanium barrel nut i would need to see a price on.
Link Posted: 3/4/2015 9:47:49 PM EDT
[#34]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Titanium barrel nut i would need to see a price on.
View Quote


Me too!

As to the titainium screws/bolts, I want to make sure I get them in hand and verify they fit and inspect for quality before I start taking any funds.

I'll post a photo or two as well so you'll know whats coming to you if you are interested.

Again, not looking to make money, just break even and help out.  If I end up sitting on the entire batch it won't break me.

Thanks
Wes
Link Posted: 3/4/2015 9:57:28 PM EDT
[#35]
Received my screws from McMaster Carr and they are good to go!!!!!
Link Posted: 3/4/2015 10:27:25 PM EDT
[#36]
I bought some screws from lowes but I'm not sure if they will work

Edit: they work

4M .70 screws straight from the bin. Now to proceed with my dastardly project he he he
Link Posted: 3/4/2015 10:54:34 PM EDT
[#37]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Me too!

As to the titainium screws/bolts, I want to make sure I get them in hand and verify they fit and inspect for quality before I start taking any funds.

I'll post a photo or two as well so you'll know whats coming to you if you are interested.

Again, not looking to make money, just break even and help out.  If I end up sitting on the entire batch it won't break me.

Thanks
Wes
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Titanium barrel nut i would need to see a price on.


Me too!

As to the titainium screws/bolts, I want to make sure I get them in hand and verify they fit and inspect for quality before I start taking any funds.

I'll post a photo or two as well so you'll know whats coming to you if you are interested.

Again, not looking to make money, just break even and help out.  If I end up sitting on the entire batch it won't break me.

Thanks
Wes

How much weight are Ti screws going to save?
Link Posted: 3/4/2015 11:07:02 PM EDT
[#38]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
An update on the screw hunt...I have 100 titanium screws/bolts made to grade 5 spec in the production chain right now.  I expect delivery in 30 days.  I can ship packs of 6 out for at costs so I break even on the project if anyone wants a set.  The cost will be a lot less than titanium grade 5 screws you can find on the market currently...thinking about $10.00 a set unless something comes up.

I've also got an email in to leaders requesting permission and technical data to replicate their barrel nut and locking ring using titanium.  If I get approval from leaders I'll get some quotes to do a run of 10 barell nuts and 10 locking rings if there's any intrest here.
View Quote


I would be interested in the price of the nut and and locking rings.
Link Posted: 3/4/2015 11:37:06 PM EDT
[#39]
C
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:



How much weight are Ti screws going to save?
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Titanium barrel nut i would need to see a price on.


Me too!

As to the titainium screws/bolts, I want to make sure I get them in hand and verify they fit and inspect for quality before I start taking any funds.

I'll post a photo or two as well so you'll know whats coming to you if you are interested.

Again, not looking to make money, just break even and help out.  If I end up sitting on the entire batch it won't break me.

Thanks
Wes



How much weight are Ti screws going to save?

Honestly, probably not a huge amount but I have a scale and can share that info one they are in hand.

I went with titanium because I would like to do the barrel nut and locking ring as well...AND...more importantly, I could specify Ti6Al4V material of grade 5 quality vs hoping for the best from a supply house inventory of a generic screw.  Titanium will hang in there through the heat cycles, which I really don't think the UTG pro screws were up to due to there metallurgy and size.

Wes
Link Posted: 3/4/2015 11:40:04 PM EDT
[#40]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I bought some screws from lowes but I'm not sure if they will work

Edit: they work

4M .70 screws straight from the bin. Now to proceed with my dastardly project he he he
View Quote

Are you using keymod or the standard model?

The specs for keymod are supposed to be different from the standard Super Slim.

The patent is pretty interesting to flip through by the way.  Google patents has it listed under leapers.

Wes
Link Posted: 3/5/2015 12:05:13 AM EDT
[#41]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

Are you using keymod or the standard model?

The specs for keymod are supposed to be different from the standard Super Slim.

The patent is pretty interesting to flip through by the way.  Google patents has it listed under leapers.

Wes
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
I bought some screws from lowes but I'm not sure if they will work

Edit: they work

4M .70 screws straight from the bin. Now to proceed with my dastardly project he he he

Are you using keymod or the standard model?

The specs for keymod are supposed to be different from the standard Super Slim.

The patent is pretty interesting to flip through by the way.  Google patents has it listed under leapers.

Wes


Reading that is making my head spin!
Link Posted: 3/5/2015 1:03:50 AM EDT
[#42]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

Are you using keymod or the standard model?

The specs for keymod are supposed to be different from the standard Super Slim.

The patent is pretty interesting to flip through by the way.  Google patents has it listed under leapers.

Wes
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
I bought some screws from lowes but I'm not sure if they will work

Edit: they work

4M .70 screws straight from the bin. Now to proceed with my dastardly project he he he

Are you using keymod or the standard model?

The specs for keymod are supposed to be different from the standard Super Slim.

The patent is pretty interesting to flip through by the way.  Google patents has it listed under leapers.

Wes

Regular super slim. It uses the same screws for the rails and barrel nut.
Link Posted: 3/5/2015 7:58:43 AM EDT
[#43]
See below...keymod is just a hair more thin.  6mm screws are as long as you can co on the keymod model.

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

I have the keymod version, and yes sheared off a screw, too. The screws are CRAP!

For the Keymod rail I ordered these: McMaster Carr Keymod rail screws

Get these for the regular (non-keymod rail). I believe an earlier post said use 8mm length instead of 6mm. : McMaster Carr Slimline rail screws

As you can see, the Keymod uses a modified button head screw with a flange and the regular slimline uses a counter-sunk design screw. At least that is my understanding.
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I recently installed a UTG grip for a bud of mine and had read this thread about the crappy screws. I had sourced some grade 8 from McMaster Carr and used thos.

Vince

Please share the part number!

Wes

I have the keymod version, and yes sheared off a screw, too. The screws are CRAP!

For the Keymod rail I ordered these: McMaster Carr Keymod rail screws

Get these for the regular (non-keymod rail). I believe an earlier post said use 8mm length instead of 6mm. : McMaster Carr Slimline rail screws

As you can see, the Keymod uses a modified button head screw with a flange and the regular slimline uses a counter-sunk design screw. At least that is my understanding.

Link Posted: 3/5/2015 8:01:18 AM EDT
[#44]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

The patent is pretty interesting to flip through by the way.  Google patents has it listed under leapers.

Wes
View Quote

Link to patent

Wes
Link Posted: 3/6/2015 11:21:35 AM EDT
[#45]
I just ordered a Midwest industries handstop kit. It looks like the distance between the mounting holes is only 1/16 difference so it should fit with a little work.
Link Posted: 3/6/2015 10:10:57 PM EDT
[#46]
Just installed my replacement screws for my keymod rail from McMaster Carr. Cranked the shit out of them - really strong quality screws!!! Good to go!!!
Now, if only Leapers/UTG had included these screws, then problem solved.
Link Posted: 3/9/2015 1:11:09 PM EDT
[#47]
we just finished build #13 with the slim pros, build was done by buddies 12 year old son and once again no issues
Link Posted: 3/9/2015 1:57:40 PM EDT
[#48]

Link Posted: 3/9/2015 4:18:58 PM EDT
[#49]
Link Posted: 3/10/2015 10:11:00 PM EDT
[#50]

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Mike Trinity Force does a knock off, the float tube is actually a little nicer but the barrel nut set up isn't as nice
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:



Quoted:



snip



Didn't know if you guys had seen this...  



Apparently caused quite a stir over on carolinashootersclub.com lol.



I've read that there are some junk versions of these rails out there, anyone have a suggestion for good supplier of the real USA made Pro version?



Thanks





Mike Trinity Force does a knock off, the float tube is actually a little nicer but the barrel nut set up isn't as nice
Thanks, appreciate the info.



Did a little digging on the Trinity rail, lots of complaints, don't think I'd be comfortable with them.  




I'll stick with the UTG Pro, for the money I think the it's gonna be hard to beat.
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