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I recently installed a UTG grip for a bud of mine and had read this thread about the crappy screws. I had sourced some grade 8 from McMaster Carr and used thos. Vince Please share the part number! Wes I have the keymod version, and yes sheared off a screw, too. The screws are CRAP! For the Keymod rail I ordered these: McMaster Carr Keymod rail screws Get these for the regular (non-keymod rail). I believe an earlier post said use 8mm length instead of 6mm. : McMaster Carr Slimline rail screws As you can see, the Keymod uses a modified button head screw with a flange and the regular slimline uses a counter-sunk design screw. At least that is my understanding. |
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I have the keymod version, and yes sheared off a screw, too. The screws are CRAP! For the Keymod rail I ordered these: McMaster Carr Keymod rail screws View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I recently installed a UTG grip for a bud of mine and had read this thread about the crappy screws. I had sourced some grade 8 from McMaster Carr and used thos. Vince Please share the part number! Wes I have the keymod version, and yes sheared off a screw, too. The screws are CRAP! For the Keymod rail I ordered these: McMaster Carr Keymod rail screws How do they fit in the recess? |
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I recently installed a UTG grip for a bud of mine and had read this thread about the crappy screws. I had sourced some grade 8 from McMaster Carr and used thos. Vince Please share the part number! Wes I have the keymod version, and yes sheared off a screw, too. The screws are CRAP! For the Keymod rail I ordered these: McMaster Carr Keymod rail screws How do they fit in the recess? They don't, read my post above. I was still editing to explain. |
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Link to non keymod rail screw: Screw for slimline non-keymod rail
You get 25 screws, but that was fine by me as I have these rails on 4 AR's. There are 6 screws per rail. 25 screws cost about $10, but the killer was the $10 shipping. Oh well, until the supplied screws are improved, get these. PS, I did not go gorilla on mine, they are super soft and crappy screws. |
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They don't, read my post above. I was still editing to explain. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I recently installed a UTG grip for a bud of mine and had read this thread about the crappy screws. I had sourced some grade 8 from McMaster Carr and used thos. Vince Please share the part number! Wes I have the keymod version, and yes sheared off a screw, too. The screws are CRAP! For the Keymod rail I ordered these: McMaster Carr Keymod rail screws How do they fit in the recess? They don't, read my post above. I was still editing to explain. OK I reread your post. I'll order some of the ones you wrote about in your edited post. That was me who said to use 8mm length because I've been researching this as well. |
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My local ace hardware had the countersunk screws for sbout 50 cents each. But the keymod type requires a bigger button-head than what they sell. They would work, but I am picky and wanted the same head diameter ( which is 9.4 mm) - on the Keymod version.
The keymod screws I needed were about $10 per pack of 25. However, the counter-sunk ones are available for $4.59 per 100. PS: If you find that the 8mm length is too long, you can always dremel or grind them back to 6mm. Or just order 6mm and 8mm to be sure. It is a hassle to have to reverse engineer this product. If resources were not limited I would just go BCM KMR and forget this rail! But, at less than half the price of the BCM KMR, it is not that bad. |
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My local ace hardware had the countersunk screws for sbout 50 cents each. But the keymod type requires a bigger button-head than what they sell. They would work, but I am picky and wanted the same head diameter ( which is 9.4 mm) - on the Keymod version. The keymod screws I needed were about $10 per pack of 25. However, the counter-sunk ones are available for $4.59 per 100. PS: If you find that the 8mm length is too long, you can always dremel or grind them back to 6mm. Or just order 6mm and 8mm to be sure. It is a hassle to have to reverse engineer this product. If resources were not limited I would just go BCM KMR and forget this rail! But, at less than half the price of the BCM KMR, it is not that bad. View Quote 6mm is definitely too short. 8mm is a little long but should be doable. I don't know of anyone who makes a 7mm length screw. |
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6mm is definitely too short. 8mm is a little long but should be doable. I don't know of anyone who makes a 7mm length screw. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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My local ace hardware had the countersunk screws for sbout 50 cents each. But the keymod type requires a bigger button-head than what they sell. They would work, but I am picky and wanted the same head diameter ( which is 9.4 mm) - on the Keymod version. The keymod screws I needed were about $10 per pack of 25. However, the counter-sunk ones are available for $4.59 per 100. PS: If you find that the 8mm length is too long, you can always dremel or grind them back to 6mm. Or just order 6mm and 8mm to be sure. It is a hassle to have to reverse engineer this product. If resources were not limited I would just go BCM KMR and forget this rail! But, at less than half the price of the BCM KMR, it is not that bad. 6mm is definitely too short. 8mm is a little long but should be doable. I don't know of anyone who makes a 7mm length screw. Hey Tallest, I don't want to sound like too much of a cheap ass but if you are close enough to me are you interested in splitting a box/bag of 100 8mm screws. I have a non-keymod rail sitting here waiting on a barrel. |
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Hey Tallest, I don't want to sound like too much of a cheap ass but if you are close enough to me are you interested in splitting a box/bag of 100 8mm screws. I have a non-keymod rail sitting here waiting on a barrel. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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My local ace hardware had the countersunk screws for sbout 50 cents each. But the keymod type requires a bigger button-head than what they sell. They would work, but I am picky and wanted the same head diameter ( which is 9.4 mm) - on the Keymod version. The keymod screws I needed were about $10 per pack of 25. However, the counter-sunk ones are available for $4.59 per 100. PS: If you find that the 8mm length is too long, you can always dremel or grind them back to 6mm. Or just order 6mm and 8mm to be sure. It is a hassle to have to reverse engineer this product. If resources were not limited I would just go BCM KMR and forget this rail! But, at less than half the price of the BCM KMR, it is not that bad. 6mm is definitely too short. 8mm is a little long but should be doable. I don't know of anyone who makes a 7mm length screw. Hey Tallest, I don't want to sound like too much of a cheap ass but if you are close enough to me are you interested in splitting a box/bag of 100 8mm screws. I have a non-keymod rail sitting here waiting on a barrel. Yeah, I'll split a bag/box. Lemme know how you want to do this. |
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The length on the keymod model bolts must be exactly as long as UTG sent. Any shorter and you don't have enough thread engagement. Any longer and the bilts will be tightened into your barrel. I fact, the final tightening of bolts that are just a hair to long may be resulting in the existing bolts bottoming out and the remaining torque as people snug up is then concentrated where the fastener head and shaft come together, ending with the head shearing off the bolt.
Wes |
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Just ordered a 15" will post pics and reviews on my build when it arrives
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The length on the keymod model bolts must be exactly as long as UTG sent. Any shorter and you don't have enough thread engagement. Any longer and the bilts will be tightened into your barrel. I fact, the final tightening of bolts that are just a hair to long may be resulting in the existing bolts bottoming out and the remaining torque as people snug up is then concentrated where the fastener head and shaft come together, ending with the head shearing off the bolt. Wes View Quote |
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Well they need to figure out a way to extract the broken screws out of the mounting collar. I have 2 stuck and tried extracting but got nothing. I'm gonna have to end up milling out the screws.
They just pulled apart. Shitty screw casting. IMO they should be using some grade8 premium stuff like magpul uses. View Quote I know I'm late, but what you need is something like this: http://smile.amazon.com/Ultra-Tool-Combined-Countersink-Uncoated/dp/B007KAX8SO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1425170546&sr=8-5&keywords=carbide+drill+point+countersink+1%2F8 Yes, I know what they are for, but you need something that won't walk, and these are too rigid to bend on you. You don't need one large enough to completely cut away the screw shank, just to start a divot for a stub drill bit to start cutting. I used a torque wrench set to whatever the instructions said, which I think was 25 inch-pounds, which isn't much of anything, really. http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-inch-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-2696.html You'll also need a metric hex bit and adapter. http://www.harborfreight.com/100-piece-security-bit-set-68457.html |
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I know I'm late, but what you need is something like this: http://smile.amazon.com/Ultra-Tool-Combined-Countersink-Uncoated/dp/B007KAX8SO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1425170546&sr=8-5&keywords=carbide+drill+point+countersink+1%2F8 Yes, I know what they are for, but you need something that won't walk, and these are too rigid to bend on you. You don't need one large enough to completely cut away the screw, just to start a divot for a drill bit to start cutting. I used a torque wrench set to whatever the instructions said, which I think was 12 inch-pounds, which isn't much of anything, really. http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-inch-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-2696.html View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Well they need to figure out a way to extract the broken screws out of the mounting collar. I have 2 stuck and tried extracting but got nothing. I'm gonna have to end up milling out the screws.
They just pulled apart. Shitty screw casting. IMO they should be using some grade8 premium stuff like magpul uses. http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/i439/Jhart1545/IMG_0751_zpsflwwylfl.jpg I know I'm late, but what you need is something like this: http://smile.amazon.com/Ultra-Tool-Combined-Countersink-Uncoated/dp/B007KAX8SO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1425170546&sr=8-5&keywords=carbide+drill+point+countersink+1%2F8 Yes, I know what they are for, but you need something that won't walk, and these are too rigid to bend on you. You don't need one large enough to completely cut away the screw, just to start a divot for a drill bit to start cutting. I used a torque wrench set to whatever the instructions said, which I think was 12 inch-pounds, which isn't much of anything, really. http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-inch-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-2696.html This was already posted and he said he was breaking them , junk soft screws and your breaking these carbide spotting countersink bits , dosen't make since Yes the screws aren't the best but there isn't any reason to crank them down hard enough to shear them |
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This was already posted and he said he was breaking them , junk soft screws and your breaking these carbide spotting countersink bits , dosen't make since Yes the screws aren't the best but there isn't any reason to crank them down hard enough to shear them View Quote I didn't click the link in your post on page 21. My bad. |
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Didn't know if you guys had seen this... I've read that there are some junk versions of these rails out there, anyone have a suggestion for good supplier of the real USA made Pro version? Thanks View Quote Found the Hitler vid earlier today. There are knock-offs of the Keymod version. Word is that the barrel nut isn't as good. The UTG Pro Slim handguards that you screw rails onto, are available pretty cheap on Amazon and eBay. The Keymod versions are harder to find on the cheap, particularly if you want anything other than the 15" version. I have seen the 13" Keymod for around $125, but they have either gone out of stock, or the prices got jacked up. I'm guessing you probably don't want to buy from Lower Than Dirt. |
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Found the Hitler vid earlier today. There are knock-offs of the Keymod version. Word is that the barrel nut isn't as good. The UTG Pro Slim handguards that you screw rails onto, are available pretty cheap on Amazon and eBay. The Keymod versions are harder to find on the cheap, particularly if you want anything other than the 15" version. I have seen the 13" Keymod for around $125, but they have either gone out of stock, or the prices got jacked up. I'm guessing you probably don't want to buy from Lower Than Dirt. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Didn't know if you guys had seen this... I've read that there are some junk versions of these rails out there, anyone have a suggestion for good supplier of the real USA made Pro version? Thanks Found the Hitler vid earlier today. There are knock-offs of the Keymod version. Word is that the barrel nut isn't as good. The UTG Pro Slim handguards that you screw rails onto, are available pretty cheap on Amazon and eBay. The Keymod versions are harder to find on the cheap, particularly if you want anything other than the 15" version. I have seen the 13" Keymod for around $125, but they have either gone out of stock, or the prices got jacked up. I'm guessing you probably don't want to buy from Lower Than Dirt. That's what I was finding goggling around, thought maybe someone had the scoop. Not unless it was life or death, even the it'd be questionable lol, they already jumped on the current "crisis", with regards to the M855 ban and ensuing ammo shortage. I guess I'll forgo the keypad and order the older version. Thanks for the reply |
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snip Didn't know if you guys had seen this... Apparently caused quite a stir over on carolinashootersclub.com lol. I've read that there are some junk versions of these rails out there, anyone have a suggestion for good supplier of the real USA made Pro version? Thanks View Quote Mike Trinity Force does a knock off, the float tube is actually a little nicer but the barrel nut set up isn't as nice |
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Mike Trinity Force does a knock off, the float tube is actually a little nicer but the barrel nut set up isn't as nice View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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snip Didn't know if you guys had seen this... Apparently caused quite a stir over on carolinashootersclub.com lol. I've read that there are some junk versions of these rails out there, anyone have a suggestion for good supplier of the real USA made Pro version? Thanks Mike Trinity Force does a knock off, the float tube is actually a little nicer but the barrel nut set up isn't as nice I assume it's branded as trinity force or not branded at all? There are a few products on Amazon that look like the UTG Pro products but on close examination you'll find a slight variations in the name and product description, along with no mention of the UTG Pro sku numbers. They are sold by various third party sellers, some who will reply and tell you it's not a UTG Pro product, but most will never respond, hoping you'll buy and be happy even if it's not exactly what you hoped for. Wes |
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This was already posted and he said he was breaking them , junk soft screws and your breaking these carbide spotting countersink bits , dosen't make since Yes the screws aren't the best but there isn't any reason to crank them down hard enough to shear them View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Well they need to figure out a way to extract the broken screws out of the mounting collar. I have 2 stuck and tried extracting but got nothing. I'm gonna have to end up milling out the screws.
They just pulled apart. Shitty screw casting. IMO they should be using some grade8 premium stuff like magpul uses. http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/i439/Jhart1545/IMG_0751_zpsflwwylfl.jpg I know I'm late, but what you need is something like this: http://smile.amazon.com/Ultra-Tool-Combined-Countersink-Uncoated/dp/B007KAX8SO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1425170546&sr=8-5&keywords=carbide+drill+point+countersink+1%2F8 Yes, I know what they are for, but you need something that won't walk, and these are too rigid to bend on you. You don't need one large enough to completely cut away the screw, just to start a divot for a drill bit to start cutting. I used a torque wrench set to whatever the instructions said, which I think was 12 inch-pounds, which isn't much of anything, really. http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-inch-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-2696.html This was already posted and he said he was breaking them , junk soft screws and your breaking these carbide spotting countersink bits , dosen't make since Yes the screws aren't the best but there isn't any reason to crank them down hard enough to shear them I ended up having to use a dremel cut off wheel to cut a slot into what was left of the screw shank. That worked, yes i had to get into the rail a little bit but it was minimal. I ended up finding some screws that had teh same thread pitch but like other was nowhere near wide enough to provide positive engagement. so i just got a few longer ones and used flat washers, it was janky and ghetto but it worked. I had a conversation with Paul at UTG/Leapers and from what i was told they are a custom screw. So i can see where there would be a learning curve and issues with engineering. I am a Fluid Power Technician by trade so i am extremely competent and experiences with putting delicate shit together. These were not over tightened, just really shitty screws. I have a new rail on the way so I am a happy camper. I dont mind being a test foundation for others it it results in a better product in the long run. |
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I ended up having to use a dremel cut off wheel to cut a slot into what was left of the screw shank. That worked, yes i had to get into the rail a little bit but it was minimal. I ended up finding some screws that had teh same thread pitch but like other was nowhere near wide enough to provide positive engagement. so i just got a few longer ones and used flat washers, it was janky and ghetto but it worked. I had a conversation with Paul at UTG/Leapers and from what i was told they are a custom screw. So i can see where there would be a learning curve and issues with engineering. I am a Fluid Power Technician by trade so i am extremely competent and experiences with putting delicate shit together. These were not over tightened, just really shitty screws. I have a new rail on the way so I am a happy camper. I dont mind being a test foundation for others it it results in a better product in the long run. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Well they need to figure out a way to extract the broken screws out of the mounting collar. I have 2 stuck and tried extracting but got nothing. I'm gonna have to end up milling out the screws.
They just pulled apart. Shitty screw casting. IMO they should be using some grade8 premium stuff like magpul uses. http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/i439/Jhart1545/IMG_0751_zpsflwwylfl.jpg I know I'm late, but what you need is something like this: http://smile.amazon.com/Ultra-Tool-Combined-Countersink-Uncoated/dp/B007KAX8SO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1425170546&sr=8-5&keywords=carbide+drill+point+countersink+1%2F8 Yes, I know what they are for, but you need something that won't walk, and these are too rigid to bend on you. You don't need one large enough to completely cut away the screw, just to start a divot for a drill bit to start cutting. I used a torque wrench set to whatever the instructions said, which I think was 12 inch-pounds, which isn't much of anything, really. http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-inch-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-2696.html This was already posted and he said he was breaking them , junk soft screws and your breaking these carbide spotting countersink bits , dosen't make since Yes the screws aren't the best but there isn't any reason to crank them down hard enough to shear them I ended up having to use a dremel cut off wheel to cut a slot into what was left of the screw shank. That worked, yes i had to get into the rail a little bit but it was minimal. I ended up finding some screws that had teh same thread pitch but like other was nowhere near wide enough to provide positive engagement. so i just got a few longer ones and used flat washers, it was janky and ghetto but it worked. I had a conversation with Paul at UTG/Leapers and from what i was told they are a custom screw. So i can see where there would be a learning curve and issues with engineering. I am a Fluid Power Technician by trade so i am extremely competent and experiences with putting delicate shit together. These were not over tightened, just really shitty screws. I have a new rail on the way so I am a happy camper. I dont mind being a test foundation for others it it results in a better product in the long run. Thank you! So, it IS the screw quality and not some newbie over-tightening the screws. Let's finally lay that assertion to rest. |
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Do magpul xtm rail covers fit on the short rails it comes with?
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An update on the screw hunt...I have 100 titanium screws/bolts made to grade 5 spec in the production chain right now. I expect delivery in 30 days. I can ship packs of 6 out for at costs so I break even on the project if anyone wants a set. The cost will be a lot less than titanium grade 5 screws you can find on the market currently...thinking about $10.00 a set unless something comes up.
I've also got an email in to leaders requesting permission and technical data to replicate their barrel nut and locking ring using titanium. If I get approval from leaders I'll get some quotes to do a run of 10 barell nuts and 10 locking rings if there's any intrest here. |
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An update on the screw hunt...I have 100 titanium screws/bolts made to grade 5 spec in the production chain right now. I expect delivery in 30 days. I can ship packs of 6 out for at costs so I break even on the project if anyone wants a set. The cost will be a lot less than titanium grade 5 screws you can find on the market currently...thinking about $10.00 a set unless something comes up. I've also got an email in to leaders requesting permission and technical data to replicate their barrel nut and locking ring using titanium. If I get approval from leaders I'll get some quotes to do a run of 10 barell nuts and 10 locking rings if there's any intrest here. View Quote I've been having phone conversations with their engineer over the screw matter. We are pretty much on the agreement that its hydrogen imbrittlement from the manufacturing process. I think they might be outsourcing something different. As far as the titanium screws I'm down for some as long as they are identical. Titanium barrel nut i would need to see a price on. |
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Titanium barrel nut i would need to see a price on. View Quote Me too! As to the titainium screws/bolts, I want to make sure I get them in hand and verify they fit and inspect for quality before I start taking any funds. I'll post a photo or two as well so you'll know whats coming to you if you are interested. Again, not looking to make money, just break even and help out. If I end up sitting on the entire batch it won't break me. Thanks Wes |
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Received my screws from McMaster Carr and they are good to go!!!!!
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I bought some screws from lowes but I'm not sure if they will work
Edit: they work 4M .70 screws straight from the bin. Now to proceed with my dastardly project he he he |
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Me too! As to the titainium screws/bolts, I want to make sure I get them in hand and verify they fit and inspect for quality before I start taking any funds. I'll post a photo or two as well so you'll know whats coming to you if you are interested. Again, not looking to make money, just break even and help out. If I end up sitting on the entire batch it won't break me. Thanks Wes View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Titanium barrel nut i would need to see a price on. Me too! As to the titainium screws/bolts, I want to make sure I get them in hand and verify they fit and inspect for quality before I start taking any funds. I'll post a photo or two as well so you'll know whats coming to you if you are interested. Again, not looking to make money, just break even and help out. If I end up sitting on the entire batch it won't break me. Thanks Wes How much weight are Ti screws going to save? |
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An update on the screw hunt...I have 100 titanium screws/bolts made to grade 5 spec in the production chain right now. I expect delivery in 30 days. I can ship packs of 6 out for at costs so I break even on the project if anyone wants a set. The cost will be a lot less than titanium grade 5 screws you can find on the market currently...thinking about $10.00 a set unless something comes up. I've also got an email in to leaders requesting permission and technical data to replicate their barrel nut and locking ring using titanium. If I get approval from leaders I'll get some quotes to do a run of 10 barell nuts and 10 locking rings if there's any intrest here. View Quote I would be interested in the price of the nut and and locking rings. |
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How much weight are Ti screws going to save? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Titanium barrel nut i would need to see a price on. Me too! As to the titainium screws/bolts, I want to make sure I get them in hand and verify they fit and inspect for quality before I start taking any funds. I'll post a photo or two as well so you'll know whats coming to you if you are interested. Again, not looking to make money, just break even and help out. If I end up sitting on the entire batch it won't break me. Thanks Wes How much weight are Ti screws going to save? Honestly, probably not a huge amount but I have a scale and can share that info one they are in hand. I went with titanium because I would like to do the barrel nut and locking ring as well...AND...more importantly, I could specify Ti6Al4V material of grade 5 quality vs hoping for the best from a supply house inventory of a generic screw. Titanium will hang in there through the heat cycles, which I really don't think the UTG pro screws were up to due to there metallurgy and size. Wes |
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I bought some screws from lowes but I'm not sure if they will work Edit: they work 4M .70 screws straight from the bin. Now to proceed with my dastardly project he he he View Quote Are you using keymod or the standard model? The specs for keymod are supposed to be different from the standard Super Slim. The patent is pretty interesting to flip through by the way. Google patents has it listed under leapers. Wes |
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Are you using keymod or the standard model? The specs for keymod are supposed to be different from the standard Super Slim. The patent is pretty interesting to flip through by the way. Google patents has it listed under leapers. Wes View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I bought some screws from lowes but I'm not sure if they will work Edit: they work 4M .70 screws straight from the bin. Now to proceed with my dastardly project he he he Are you using keymod or the standard model? The specs for keymod are supposed to be different from the standard Super Slim. The patent is pretty interesting to flip through by the way. Google patents has it listed under leapers. Wes Reading that is making my head spin! |
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Are you using keymod or the standard model? The specs for keymod are supposed to be different from the standard Super Slim. The patent is pretty interesting to flip through by the way. Google patents has it listed under leapers. Wes View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I bought some screws from lowes but I'm not sure if they will work Edit: they work 4M .70 screws straight from the bin. Now to proceed with my dastardly project he he he Are you using keymod or the standard model? The specs for keymod are supposed to be different from the standard Super Slim. The patent is pretty interesting to flip through by the way. Google patents has it listed under leapers. Wes Regular super slim. It uses the same screws for the rails and barrel nut. |
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See below...keymod is just a hair more thin. 6mm screws are as long as you can co on the keymod model.
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I have the keymod version, and yes sheared off a screw, too. The screws are CRAP! For the Keymod rail I ordered these: McMaster Carr Keymod rail screws Get these for the regular (non-keymod rail). I believe an earlier post said use 8mm length instead of 6mm. : McMaster Carr Slimline rail screws As you can see, the Keymod uses a modified button head screw with a flange and the regular slimline uses a counter-sunk design screw. At least that is my understanding. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I recently installed a UTG grip for a bud of mine and had read this thread about the crappy screws. I had sourced some grade 8 from McMaster Carr and used thos. Vince Please share the part number! Wes I have the keymod version, and yes sheared off a screw, too. The screws are CRAP! For the Keymod rail I ordered these: McMaster Carr Keymod rail screws Get these for the regular (non-keymod rail). I believe an earlier post said use 8mm length instead of 6mm. : McMaster Carr Slimline rail screws As you can see, the Keymod uses a modified button head screw with a flange and the regular slimline uses a counter-sunk design screw. At least that is my understanding. |
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The patent is pretty interesting to flip through by the way. Google patents has it listed under leapers. Wes View Quote Link to patent Wes |
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I just ordered a Midwest industries handstop kit. It looks like the distance between the mounting holes is only 1/16 difference so it should fit with a little work.
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Just installed my replacement screws for my keymod rail from McMaster Carr. Cranked the shit out of them - really strong quality screws!!! Good to go!!!
Now, if only Leapers/UTG had included these screws, then problem solved. |
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we just finished build #13 with the slim pros, build was done by buddies 12 year old son and once again no issues
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Quoted: Mike Trinity Force does a knock off, the float tube is actually a little nicer but the barrel nut set up isn't as nice View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: snip Didn't know if you guys had seen this... Apparently caused quite a stir over on carolinashootersclub.com lol. I've read that there are some junk versions of these rails out there, anyone have a suggestion for good supplier of the real USA made Pro version? Thanks Mike Trinity Force does a knock off, the float tube is actually a little nicer but the barrel nut set up isn't as nice Did a little digging on the Trinity rail, lots of complaints, don't think I'd be comfortable with them. I'll stick with the UTG Pro, for the money I think the it's gonna be hard to beat. |
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