So, I have a Daniel Defense lower receiver that had an RRA LPK installed (back when DD sold stripped lowers) and a commercial buffer tube/stock.

I wanted to switch it to mil-spec so all my AR's had were mil spec for ease of swapping parts etc.

I uninstalled the commercial buffer tube no problem.

Then I tried to install a new mil-spec tube along with an ASAP plate (which was previously on there). No matter how many times I tried, the buffer tube came out crooked once I torqued to 32 ft/lbs

So I tried a SLAP plate and a new buffer tube instead, same problem. Then I tried a third buffer tube, same problem.

I've installed LPK's and buffer tube assemblies in several lower receivers and never had this problem. But no matter what, I can spend hours trying and it turns out crooked no matter what I do.

I have a proper bench vise, lower receiver vise block, torque wrench and castle nut wrench and then a little hand castle nut wrench. So I'm not using crappy tools or some poor improvised setup. I looked at the threads in the DD receiver and don't see anything stripped out or any apparent damage.

What gives. This is driving me crazy

Put a DROP of BLUE toc tite on the buffer tube threads, install, and allow it to cure before torquing the nut.  Perfectly straight stocks every time.

ETA is it side to side crooked or rotationally crooked?

Do you have the right ASAP key in?

Loctite on the RE? Ugghhh....... Leave that shit in the toolbox for that job.

My advice when this happens is to install the stock on the RE and have a friend hold it in place when tightening the castle nut. Once properly torqued, stake the end plate.

I'm not even trying the ASAP anymore. And I have installed them in the past without problems, and yes I was using the correct piece to hold it.

To be clear the proper torque is 32 ft/lbs right? I've always done 32-35 in the past.

I can tighten the castlenut and keep the tube in place for most of the install. I can use a hand wrench to tighten as much as I can and it'll stay in place. But the second I use my torque wrench to put the finishing touches on, it turns the entire thing. And I've just noticed that it seems to be pushing the 'tooth'on the end plate into the threads on one side. Looks the same on all 3 tubes.

Just snug the damn thing up good and straight, and stake the damn endplate! DONE! It will not move!

I will stick to the proper procedure for assembling a rifle thank you. And I have built a lot of them now.

Good for you, so have I.  More than one way to skin a cat and the OP asked, so I replied.

Are you using a receiver extension end plate like this ?

The round/oval protrusion should fit into the recess in the receiver and prevent the tube from rotating....... just a thought.

^^^^^^this

Nevermind. Deleted.

Yes, my end plate has the protrusion. I took the earlier advice and used some blue loctite, then hand tightened it correctly in place. Waited, then tightened some more, waited until next morning and did one last time and just staked it. What a PIA. But thanks everyone for the help, it was driving me crazy

ive never had that much issues with buffer tube, the only thing i could think of was the end plate on backwards allowing it to spin when torquing...but hey, whatever works.  care to take pictures of the end result?

That's what I was thinking too, can't figure out how it would spin otherwise.

Even done properly an extension tube can be a bit misaligned.  A tiny bit off can look like a mile to a perfectionist.

the end plate protrusion that slides in the groove of the buffer tube has some play in it? The tolerances are a little loose? I ran into this recently...

Are u sure it is 32ft/lb and not 40in/lb ? This what the forum threads have been reporting.

I've run into this before. Somewhere a government manual said 40 in/lb, but then contradicted itself elsewhere.