|Originally Posted By GHPorter:
Originally Posted By JameyF:
So that looks like you actually torque the nut LESS than what your torque wrench is set.
The spec is not for the actual torque applied to the nit, but for the torque indicated on the wrench
when used according to the instructions.
For some reason, people seem to either WAY over
think this (trying to calculate actual torque when that number is irrelevant to the procedure), or WAY under
think it and completely ignore that the nut needs to be torqued to some specific value (regardless of whether it has anything to do with the numbers in the TM). The barrel nut wrench adds a small amount to the length of the torque arm, but the torque is applied at a point that is that same distance away from the axis of the nut, which makes the actual torque applied to the nut a very complex thing to calculate. But that is completely unnecessary, since following the procedure gives the appropriate torque. Following well-illustrated, very clearly written procedures should not be hard. I don't know why it seems to be so hard for so many people.
I'm not intentionally trying to overthink it. I simply want to learn EXACTLY what is happening. I get that this isn't brain surgery or rocket science where a 5-10% off would really make a difference. BUT, I'm the kind of person who wants to know when I'm 5-10% off even when it doesn't matter. I can live with being less than exact, but I hate not knowing it. The previous explanations say 1 1/2" for the wrench is factored in to the process. So, assuming that is the case with the wrench being used, I can live with that.