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Posted: 1/22/2013 9:22:09 AM EDT
I have always built my own lowers but would buy complete uppers. Now do to this BS scare it's hard to find a complete upper at a decent price so how hard is it to build your own upper?
Here's my lower I just built
http://i852.photobucket.com/albums/ab89/Glock40guy/002-22_zps9265c854.jpg
Link Posted: 1/22/2013 9:36:05 AM EDT
[#1]
I have the same question and if anyone has a part and tool list it'd help me out a lot thanks and sorry for sort of thread jacking
Link Posted: 1/22/2013 9:39:06 AM EDT
[#2]
Seems like it wouldn't be to hard. I've been watching quite a few videos on youtube lately, and everything seems straight forward as to what you do.
Link Posted: 1/22/2013 9:48:08 AM EDT
[#3]
I just put together my first upper (a DPMS  in .308).  Not that hard.  Hardest part is finding the right tools--you DEFINITELY need some kind of upper receiver block (though for a flat-top receiver, I've just used a couple of strips of Delrin cutting board on the top and between the lugs), and something to tighten the barrel nut.  For my .308, I bought a dedicated barrel nut wrench, but I've also used a Kobalt strap wrench to do exactly the same thing. Granted, unless your elbow goes "click" at the proper foot-pounds of torque it's not going to be in spec, but I'm not necessarily sure that's all that big of a deal.
Link Posted: 1/22/2013 10:07:33 AM EDT
[#4]
I am in the same boat as you guys.  

I've got a lower built, and have finally ordered all the parts to build my upper (I think), except the BCG and flash hider.

From my understanding, the tools that are needed to put together an upper are:

    - upper receiver armorers/vice block + vice to hold upper when attaching barrel and rail
    - armorer's tool for barrel nut (and castle nut for lower?)
    - torque wrench (attach to armorer's tool for proper torque)
    - roll pin punches (I put my lower together with a normal punch and it definitely marred the pins up a bit)

Please let me know if I'm missing anything or if I have any of this wrong.  I'm still a newb here.
Link Posted: 1/22/2013 10:26:52 AM EDT
[#5]
Quoted:
I am in the same boat as you guys.  

I've got a lower built, and have finally ordered all the parts to build my upper (I think), except the BCG and flash hider.

From my understanding, the tools that are needed to put together an upper are:

    - upper receiver armorers/vice block + vice to hold upper when attaching barrel and rail  I'd use the Bushmaster, that clamps around the upper-
    armorer's tool for barrel nut (and castle nut for lower?) yes, also works for flash tider too.
    - torque wrench (attach to armorer's tool for proper torque)   Yes
    - roll pin punches (I put my lower together with a normal punch and it definitely marred the pins up a bit)Good idea to have, but only 1 roll pin in the upper. Forward assist pin.

Please let me know if I'm missing anything or if I have any of this wrong.  I'm still a newb here.


Link Posted: 1/22/2013 10:33:08 AM EDT
[#6]
Quoted:
I have always built my own lowers but would buy complete uppers. Now do to this BS scare it's hard to find a complete upper at a decent price so how hard is it to build your own upper?
Here's my lower I just built
http://i852.photobucket.com/albums/ab89/Glock40guy/002-22_zps9265c854.jpg


If you can build a lower, then an upper should be no problem, it's actually even easier.

A vise would be the first requirement. Just no way else to hold it firm while tightening the barrel nut down.
Barrel clamps and an upper receiver block can easily be made from wood inexpensively.
A pin punch can be fabricated from steel rod for the two small roll pins. (gas tube & fwd assist)

If you're half way proficient mechanically you could even get by without a torque wrench.  Lining up a recess on the barrel nut is first and foremost so the gas tube will be able
to properly enter the upper receiver.

Of course this is all based on your own mechanical ability. If a screw driver and a hammer look foreign to you, you might be better off buying AR specific tools.
Link Posted: 1/22/2013 10:34:04 AM EDT
[#7]
Quoted:
I have the same question and if anyone has a part and tool list it'd help me out a lot thanks and sorry for sort of thread jacking


My original plan was to build my upper myself.  Being this was my first build, I was a little warry having the correct torque presure.  Plus purchasing all the tools wasn't worth it since its only coing me around 60 bucks to get it built by my local gun smith.  I think Rainier charges 100.

But heres what I used for my upper build:

Upper Receiver
Rail Guard
Rail Grip
Gas Block
Gas Tube
Gas Tube Pin
Iron Sights Front
Iron Sights Rear
Barrel
Compensator
Barrel Nut (you may need delta rings, or specific barrel nuts for certain rails.  If this is the case, they should come with the rails)
Bolt Carrier Group
Upper Parts Kit (forward assit & ejection door parts)
Charging Handle
Link Posted: 1/22/2013 10:53:18 AM EDT
[#8]
Damn, forgot about the gas block.
Link Posted: 1/22/2013 11:40:32 AM EDT
[#9]
easy peasy. broke my cherry on my first on my kitchen table.  much easier with a "claw" though
Link Posted: 1/22/2013 11:43:36 AM EDT
[#10]
As I said, if you're doing a flattop, just use a cutting board.  I went to walmart, bought a $6 Delrin cutting board. Cut one chunk about 2" wide to put on the top, another just long enough to fit between the locking lugs on the bottom. Lock it into your vice and go to town. Looks like this:



Cheap, easy, and effective.

If you're doing an A2 upper, you need a vice block.

Though one other thing––when you're cutting the board, especially with power tools, do it outside. It'll create a BUNCH of cotton candy-looking debris and smell like burning hobo feet.
Link Posted: 1/22/2013 12:13:38 PM EDT
[#11]
It's easier to assemble an upper than a lower, IMO.  

The caveat to that is installing fixed A2 FSBs.  

I assembled my last upper with a set of punches, a hammer, some allen wrenches, receiver block, crescent wrench, barrel vise jaws, vise, and an armorer's wrench.  YMMV.


ETA - I would not start an upper build right now unless you have a BCG for it.  I've seen pretty much every other part around, but BCGs are extremely rare and go fast if they're listed at pre-panic prices.  If you're willing to pay panic prices, everything you want is out there.  Just, pony up.
Link Posted: 1/22/2013 12:42:45 PM EDT
[#12]
Check out Brownells, they have some good video and they have the tools
Link Posted: 1/22/2013 1:00:40 PM EDT
[#13]
Building them is easy.  Keeping your wallet in your pocket once you realize how easy it is.....that's a whole other problem.

Seriously you will be the on the EE and start picking up screaming deals on stripped uppers and barrels...or website will have blow out sales on barrels and uppers.....and before you know it you need stripped lowers to go with your new uppers......it's maddening.
Link Posted: 1/22/2013 1:39:22 PM EDT
[#14]
I have(helped/supervised) built/assembled more than a few AR's in the past few weeks. I have the tools and none of my buddies(or their friends) do, LOL  so they have all come over wanting to learn lately. Every single one of them are amazed at how quickly and easily they can be assembled from a box full of bits and pieces into an operating firearm and it doesnt take esoteric vodoo magical gunsmith skills.......

Find someone local to you who would like to pass along the knowledge and help ya build your rifle.
Link Posted: 1/22/2013 1:45:09 PM EDT
[#15]
Quoted:
As I said, if you're doing a flattop, just use a cutting board.  I went to walmart, bought a $6 Delrin cutting board. Cut one chunk about 2" wide to put on the top, another just long enough to fit between the locking lugs on the bottom. Lock it into your vice and go to town. Looks like this:

http://kevinholman.com/byor/ar10noveske/upperclamped.jpg

Cheap, easy, and effective.

If you're doing an A2 upper, you need a vice block.

Though one other thing––when you're cutting the board, especially with power tools, do it outside. It'll create a BUNCH of cotton candy-looking debris and smell like burning hobo feet.



To add to this, I place a couple of deep well sockets with the correct o.d. into the upper. Makes it crush proof.
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