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MattyCR
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Posted: 9/8/2012 8:17:47 PM EST
I am getting ready to mill out a lower with the Baxter jig and have a question on the shape of the FCG pocket that it makes. The prints and the examples I have dont have anywhere near the shape. The right side (non selector) side is the same as the others but the left side has the cut made straight up to the rear shelf without the jog in it like the opposite has. More or less the Baxter jig is an elongated L where all the others I have to compare are and elongated T.

Note the T shape
http://www.cncguns.com/images/AR15%20Jig%2080%25%20milling%20adapters.jpg


Note the L shape
https://www.vbd.com//noc/images/products/239162059.jpg

Im wondering if this is an issue or is it a feature I am unaware of? Just wanted to know before starting on my first DIY rifle.

Sc0tt
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Posted: 9/9/2012 2:54:22 AM EST
MattyCR
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Posted: 9/9/2012 10:16:26 AM EST
I know this is my first post and all but not only did I google, I searched this, cncguns, and a few other sites. Im also looking at a set of prints and my Spikes lower. Those pictures do not show a FC pocket that is shaped like the top of the jig I got.

Now is there any reason why its cut like that when all other DIY jigs match up with my prints and my lower and all the pics on Google Images you were very kind to provide?
sergtjim
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Posted: 9/9/2012 12:53:29 PM EST
I've never used the Baxter jig you have, but there is room for variability in the fire control pocket. These are of one I finished with a Dremel and a Colfax Tactical jig as a guide. Note how the end of the pocket near the tower is constricted at the safety selector to provide a place for the detent, then opens up again closer to the buffer tower.

The Baxter jig seems to not have that wide place next to the tower. I believe that space is for an autosear. If you don't plan to go FA, then you can ignore that feature, and just go straight back from the selector detent area.






MattyCR
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Posted: 9/9/2012 1:48:20 PM EST
[Last Edit: 9/9/2012 2:00:58 PM EST by MattyCR]
If its for milling a FA capable lower I guess that would make sense. It just worried me that if you cut back like that, the selector side wouldnt have more than 3/32" of meat to support the selector. My examples are more or less symmetrical as the FCG pocket necks down towards the buffer tower/rear take down pocket. If it works all the same then I will mill it out and go on my merry way.

Thanks for a helpful reply, Ive never dealt with any FA weapons and dont plan to so all I know is what Ive already seen.

wanted to add this pic as this is how the jig will mill the pocket compared to the pic you showed

The red out line is how the baxter jig will mill compared to the "normal" lowers that are like yours

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e270/mattnsac/public%20album/arlower.png

CFCNC
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Posted: 9/9/2012 6:50:37 PM EST
[Last Edit: 9/9/2012 6:51:19 PM EST by CFCNC]
The jig should also be cutting out the section in blue, otherwise there isn't a place for your rear takedown lug on the upper receiver to nest into.

ETA: In case you weren't aware of that already.

MattyCR
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Posted: 9/10/2012 12:36:29 PM EST
the rear take down pocket is already machined. If it is looks ok Im gonna get going on this. Ill post up some pics after Im done. I have 4 to build
Dan877
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Posted: 9/10/2012 12:58:07 PM EST
Looks like the Baxter jig is made to be used for either full-auto or semi-auto, mill half the pocket then flip the jig over and mill the other half, depending on which you want to make.

For reference to help you envision it, here's a photo showing the difference between a F/A and a "typical" S/A lower:

MattyCR
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Posted: 9/10/2012 1:28:55 PM EST
that makes total sense now. Wouldve been nice to see that in the instructions for it. At least I have the option if the end of the world happens (and the NFA is repealed) that I can build a FA AR
CFCNC
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Posted: 9/10/2012 6:00:03 PM EST
Originally Posted By MattyCR:
that makes total sense now. Wouldve been nice to see that in the instructions for it. At least I have the option if the end of the world happens (and the NFA is repealed) that I can build a FA AR


Just to be clear, having the fire control group from an M16, and having an AR lower can get you into big trouble with the ATF. It doesn't matter if the AR lower could not accept the select fire FCG.
MattyCR
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Posted: 9/10/2012 6:58:11 PM EST
I meant that I could machine it out and build it that way. I have a few standard Spikes lower parts kits so dont worry that Im building NFA weapons, that wasnt how I meant that to come off. Like I said, Ive never had my hands on a AW or the parts to build one. The best Ive seen is pictures of them on here, google and quarterbore. If the SHTF or the NFA is repealed then Im all set to build a FA AR. Until then its semi auto civilian action for me, or when I have a down payment on a houses worth of cash to buy a AW and I move out of Kali.

I just want to build a few lowers that I can say I built myself. Also gives you a much better understanding of the weapon you are using. Kinda like building a car and driving one. Some people are more than happy to jump in and drive while some others get off on building the car in which they drive.


CFCNC
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Posted: 9/10/2012 7:14:40 PM EST
Originally Posted By MattyCR:
I meant that I could machine it out and build it that way. I have a few standard Spikes lower parts kits so dont worry that Im building NFA weapons, that wasnt how I meant that to come off. Like I said, Ive never had my hands on a AW or the parts to build one. The best Ive seen is pictures of them on here, google and quarterbore. If the SHTF or the NFA is repealed then Im all set to build a FA AR. Until then its semi auto civilian action for me, or when I have a down payment on a houses worth of cash to buy a AW and I move out of Kali.

I just want to build a few lowers that I can say I built myself. Also gives you a much better understanding of the weapon you are using. Kinda like building a car and driving one. Some people are more than happy to jump in and drive while some others get off on building the car in which they drive.




Ah ic, sorry for coming off like you didn't know what you were doing. I just assumed with low post count and new join date that you haven't been into AR's much.

Don't forget to post some pictures of your completed lower. I've always wanted to try and build one, but have yet to acquire a milling machine.
MattyCR
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Posted: 9/10/2012 7:20:11 PM EST
thank you for being proactive and educating someone that may not have known better.

Truth be told if it wasnt for questions regarding this particular issue I would have remained a lurker and nothing else. Id rather keep my head low and stay invisible IYKWIM
Dan877
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Posted: 9/11/2012 9:16:11 AM EST
You should also note that for semi-auto you DO NOT drill the two smaller holes at the ver rear of the jig, only the one in the center.