 rdb241 
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Joined: Jan 2012  WA, USA
 Posts: 3 Feedback: 0% (0) |
Posted: 8/18/2012 12:24:38 PM
[Last Edit: 8/18/2012 12:44:40 PM by rdb241]
THE IMAGE ABOVE IS A PAID ADVERTISEMENT 
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Posted: 8/18/2012 4:07:14 PM
Looks good. But please tell me your not in charge of drilling at the aircraft factory.
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Lon_Moer
I've seen the future - I can't afford it.
Team Member
Joined: Jan 2004 CA, USA
Posts: 24735 Feedback: 100% (15) Link To This Post |
Posted: 8/18/2012 4:21:30 PM
That's excellent! The standard repair on 80% projects is JBWeld, so yours is much better.
That earns a WECSOG diploma.  |
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Posted: 8/18/2012 6:53:28 PM
I don't think it will stay. The freeze plug needs to bee a complete circle then drilled. By having the crescents you have a pretty good chance they will vibrate loose. Especially the one on the right side. It is just sliver. Guns flex and vibrate a lot at every shot, even the selector will get pretty banged around.
BTW, I am a retired fighter wrench, 20+ years crew chiefing F16s, never saw one fixed quite like that and I would have not signed the forms for it. I have done stop drills for cracks, and epoxy repaired carbon fiber on them. I only knew of your fix from school and I don't think it is authorized on all airframes. |
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Posted: 8/18/2012 10:01:48 PM
[Last Edit: 8/18/2012 10:09:08 PM by hotdog250j]
Maybe it won't but whats to lose? well, except for the engraving and anodizing.
I'd ride that horse till she dropped. oh, and OP, that lower looks like a billet and might be 6061 (probably T-6 treated) and is more TIG friendly. Keep that in mind. |
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Posted: 8/19/2012 10:22:57 AM
Originally Posted By ErikS:
I don't think it will stay. The freeze plug needs to bee a complete circle then drilled. By having the crescents you have a pretty good chance they will vibrate loose. Especially the one on the right side. It is just sliver. Guns flex and vibrate a lot at every shot, even the selector will get pretty banged around. BTW, I am a retired fighter wrench, 20+ years crew chiefing F16s, never saw one fixed quite like that and I would have not signed the forms for it. I have done stop drills for cracks, and epoxy repaired carbon fiber on them. I only knew of your fix from school and I don't think it is authorized on all airframes. I'm agreeing with this. What "I" would have done was re-drill the hole slightly oversize, then put the plug in, and re-drilled. At least you'd have a complete circle and a better chance of it staying in place. Good idea though....now where did I put that tank of liquid nitrogen in the garage........ 
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Posted: 8/19/2012 12:28:16 PM
[Last Edit: 8/19/2012 12:32:10 PM by rcurrier44]
Originally Posted By hotdog250j:
Maybe it won't but whats to lose? Really nothing... he can always redrill again later if it comes loose and starts binding the pin. The fact that he was able to get it drilled out without the piece coming loose gives me hope. Good job OP! What he did would work just fine for a static connection where your pin/bolt is not moving. EDIT: Oh and when I assemble an interference fit I usually just put one in the freezer and the other on the BBQ grill for a bit  |
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Posted: 8/19/2012 5:46:40 PM
Thats cool, I'll have to remember that one, if it didnt come out when you re-drilled it it probably aint gonna come out
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Posted: 8/21/2012 2:28:36 AM
Originally Posted By wagonwheel1:
Looks good. But please tell me your not in charge of drilling at the aircraft factory. No, I am a painter. I get to paint the fancy designs on the Disney jet...lol
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Posted: 8/21/2012 2:34:13 AM
Originally Posted By ErikS:
I don't think it will stay. The freeze plug needs to bee a complete circle then drilled. By having the crescents you have a pretty good chance they will vibrate loose. Especially the one on the right side. It is just sliver. Guns flex and vibrate a lot at every shot, even the selector will get pretty banged around. BTW, I am a retired fighter wrench, 20+ years crew chiefing F16s, never saw one fixed quite like that and I would have not signed the forms for it. I have done stop drills for cracks, and epoxy repaired carbon fiber on them. I only knew of your fix from school and I don't think it is authorized on all airframes. I don't see any reason why it would not stay in place. There is no stress on the hole itself. It's only a safety selector hole. It really does not have anything to do with recoil. A fighter jet may have alot more stress and G's to worry about when fixing bad holes. All I can say is that is how they fix bad holes all the time on the 737 program. It is very common and FAA has no problem with the fix. It does not comprpomise airframe integerity. |
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Posted: 8/21/2012 2:37:46 AM
Originally Posted By Lon_Moer:
That's excellent! The standard repair on 80% projects is JBWeld, so yours is much better.
That earns a WECSOG diploma. http://i33.tinypic.com/259g9di.jpg Thanx for the Diploma. lol. I will put that next to my "Shade Tree Gunsmith" certficate. |
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Posted: 8/21/2012 10:00:09 AM
[Last Edit: 8/21/2012 10:01:08 AM by Moparjake]
There is actually a solder designed to be used with aluminum if you ever run into any issues down the road. http://durafix.com/
Ive used thier product extensively over the years in the Custom Paintball realm to fix stirpped threads, ect. Its actually pretty strong and reletively easy to use. Just a thought. -Jake |
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Posted: 8/21/2012 4:20:29 PM
So did you mill out the FCG pocket yet? Kinda looks like it's not in the pics. If welding wasn't an option, I would have put in a much larger plug then redrilled if the pocket hasn't been milled out yet.
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Posted: 8/23/2012 1:41:55 AM
[Last Edit: 8/27/2012 5:17:22 AM by rdb241]
No I have not milled out the FCG pocket yet. I need i get access to a milling machine.
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Posted: 8/23/2012 9:14:26 AM
I think the only way to fix correctly the problem is TIG welding the receiver hole. Make a smaller 7075T6 bushing, leave a small gap between the hole and the bushing, hold in the correct position and weld around the plug with TIG weld machine.
Finish the repair inside and outside of the receiver with a mill to smooth the weld spots. The anodizing probably wiil not match the same color on the welded areas due the heating around the area and different material of the weld. Go find a goog weld shop and fix your problem. |
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Posted: 8/23/2012 10:33:06 AM
[Last Edit: 8/23/2012 10:37:21 AM by marshs313]
Could have also used a metal filling gun to fill it back in but a tig would work equally as well.
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RDTCU
Member
Team Member
Joined: Oct 2008 SC, USA
Posts: 11924 Feedback: 100% (15) Link To This Post |
Posted: 8/23/2012 11:59:24 AM
[Last Edit: 8/23/2012 11:59:39 AM by RDTCU]
Originally Posted By marshs313:
metal filling gun You mean a MIG with a spool gun?  |
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Posted: 8/23/2012 12:24:09 PM
[Last Edit: 8/23/2012 12:29:18 PM by marshs313]
No not really for the life if me I can't remember what the name of the damn tool is. My dads friend showed it to me. I want to call it a sputter gun but that doesn't sound right. It basically used metal powder to fill in metal. You could use aluminum or any other powdered metal like steel. He was telling me it was used for say on a axel shaft that was damaged from friction and a lot of metal was worn off. You would spray the molten metal onto the surface and then work it back smooth like the axel was new. I almost want to say it was from the military aircraft industry a very specialized tool. I honestly can't remember the name of the tool or make. My dads friend makes bob vila look like a novice. I'm sure the name will come to me at some random point in the future. Perhaps a spray welder...
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RDTCU
Member
Team Member
Joined: Oct 2008 SC, USA
Posts: 11925 Feedback: 100% (15) Link To This Post |
Posted: 8/23/2012 12:41:03 PM
[Last Edit: 8/23/2012 12:41:59 PM by RDTCU]
Originally Posted By marshs313:
No not really for the life if me I can't remember what the name of the damn tool is. My dads friend showed it to me. I want to call it a sputter gun but that doesn't sound right. It basically used metal powder to fill in metal. You could use aluminum or any other powdered metal like steel. He was telling me it was used for say on a axel shaft that was damaged from friction and a lot of metal was worn off. You would spray the molten metal onto the surface and then work it back smooth like the axel was new. I almost want to say it was from the military aircraft industry a very specialized tool. I honestly can't remember the name of the tool or make. My dads friend makes bob vila look like a novice. I'm sure the name will come to me at some random point in the future. Perhaps a spray welder... Ohhh, I've heard those called metal spray guns, we've got something similar here for diecast tooling called a Rocklinizer, but that only deposits tungsten carbide, titanium carbide or similar coatings, and it actually impregnates the surface. For something deep in the pocket like that, I'd have to say TIG would be easier... |
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