 TrooperKbC 
Member
Joined: May 2012  TX, USA
 Posts: 38 Feedback: 100% (1) |
Posted: 8/17/2012 6:39:38 PM
[Last Edit: 8/17/2012 6:40:22 PM by TrooperKbC]
THE IMAGE ABOVE IS A PAID ADVERTISEMENT |
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Posted: 8/17/2012 7:00:47 PM
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Posted: 8/17/2012 7:13:12 PM
[Last Edit: 8/17/2012 7:18:45 PM by Mad-Machinist]
Just to rethread....that is a bit excessive in my opinion...it is a 15 minute job tops.......did one for a GA HTF member Thursday.......
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Posted: 8/18/2012 6:36:30 AM
yeah way too much money for that job. its the same around where I live, these gunsmiths are nuts and I tell them so,, then send my stuff to adco....
the last job I checked on with a local smith was to recontour a SS bull barrel and flute it. $450, almost double what adco is.. |
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Posted: 8/18/2012 2:01:20 PM
thats an insane price for that work. ive done my own a few times a lathe in no longer than 20 minutes and most of that was looking for the die in my buddies cluttered up shop. find a machine shop to to do the brake, no more than a 10 minute job but youll prolly have to supply the tap or die depending on which way you go as these treads arent normal sizes in most shops that dont deal with guns.
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Posted: 8/18/2012 2:06:01 PM
Shoot me a PM or an email....... qualitymachine@bellsouth.net ......I'll be happy to turn down the muzzle and rethread for you, and it won't be done with a die...it'll be lathe turned and single point cut in the lathe and I'll guarantee concentricity with the muzzle under .001
Rudy |
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Posted: 8/19/2012 2:31:22 AM
[Last Edit: 8/19/2012 2:37:43 AM by TrooperKbC]
The barrel is melonited. Would it likely rust if not refinished? Is there a way to refinish the muzzle after machining without effecting the bore or crown?
I just measured the brake and I doubt there is enough extra metal to open the hole another 1/8". I think I'd be left with only 1/16" all around. Besides, who uses 5/8" on a .223?  |
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Posted: 8/19/2012 10:19:26 AM
Treat it with a little industrial black oxide.......but I don't think rust would be a huge issue.....the only untreated metal will be covered by the brake....
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Posted: 9/22/2012 12:56:36 AM
[Last Edit: 9/22/2012 1:54:51 AM by TrooperKbC]
I had the thing threaded. I installed the brake with a crush washer and a few layers of a peel washer to make indexing with the right torque easier. The first time I shot, I had the end of the muzzle brake get blown off.
I wasn't sure if the problem was caused by my amateur installation, the brake, the threading, or the ammo, so I ordered a replacement. I installed the new one today, using only a peel washer, and got a 2 guage drill rod to test the concentricity of the brake. 
It appears to slightly favor an upward direction with the top gap around twice the width of the bottom, but it looks like there will be plenty of space all around for a bullet to pass without breaking off the end. I'm not sure if the upward tilt is due to the brake, threads, or my installation job, but I don't want to mess with it. PWS told me the hole is 0.268", so I should have 0.044" clearance, which is probably about 0.015" on the bottom and 0.030" on the top. I think even 0.015" all around would be enough, but any expert opinions? Is this going to effect its accuracy or give potential for another blowout? |
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Posted: 9/22/2012 10:04:08 AM
Originally Posted By TrooperKbC:
The barrel is melonited. Would it likely rust if not refinished? Is there a way to refinish the muzzle after machining without effecting the bore or crown? I just measured the brake and I doubt there is enough extra metal to open the hole another 1/8". I think I'd be left with only 1/16" all around. Besides, who uses 5/8" on a .223? Someone that knows relieving too mush metal around the bore allows the bore to expand and the bullets to wobble as they exit. Most barrels that have a 1/2" thread will allow a .219 inspection pin to go into the bore 3/4" and stop that means the crown where the bullet exits is larger than the rest of the bore. The land to land dim should be .218 in a .224/5.56 not .219. So guess what the bore looks like in all of those skinny pencil barrels. Tight at the chamber, loose where it get down to 1/2, tight again at the gas block area and loose again when it gets back down to 1/2" dia. |
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Posted: 9/22/2012 10:51:24 AM
Originally Posted By TrooperKbC:
I had the thing threaded. I installed the brake with a crush washer and a few layers of a peel washer to make indexing with the right torque easier. The first time I shot, I had the end of the muzzle brake get blown off. http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd203/4r00p3r/Untitled_zps060c98ef.jpg I wasn't sure if the problem was caused by my amateur installation, the brake, the threading, or the ammo, so I ordered a replacement. I installed the new one today, using only a peel washer, and got a 2 guage drill rod to test the concentricity of the brake. http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd203/4r00p3r/brake2_zps66bf5903.jpg It appears to slightly favor an upward direction with the top gap around twice the width of the bottom, but it looks like there will be plenty of space all around for a bullet to pass without breaking off the end. I'm not sure if the upward tilt is due to the brake, threads, or my installation job, but I don't want to mess with it. PWS told me the hole is 0.268", so I should have 0.044" clearance, which is probably about 0.015" on the bottom and 0.030" on the top. I think even 0.015" all around would be enough, but any expert opinions? Is this going to effect its accuracy or give potential for another blowout? Did you notice that big 1/2" diameter hole all the way through the brake you chose? It is only closer to bullet dia at the end so how efficient is it? What are you trying to do with the brake? Do you just want one that looks cool or one that does something? The larger the port area on the side of the brake the louder it is. Brakes that have a big chamber inside let turbulent gases that are faster than a bullet go around the bullet. The most efficient brakes have a bore apx .040 larger than the bullet dia with partitions throughout the brake no further apart than the bullet is so the high pressure gases are always behind the bullet. In the past the SJC Titan and Hill Rolling thunder have always been known to be the best (most efficient) brakes. There are several other companies that specialize in high performance products that make efficient brakes now. |
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Posted: 9/22/2012 6:53:49 PM
[Last Edit: 9/22/2012 6:57:43 PM by TrooperKbC]
Originally Posted By Tim_W:
Originally Posted By TrooperKbC:
The barrel is melonited. Would it likely rust if not refinished? Is there a way to refinish the muzzle after machining without effecting the bore or crown? I just measured the brake and I doubt there is enough extra metal to open the hole another 1/8". I think I'd be left with only 1/16" all around. Besides, who uses 5/8" on a .223? Someone that knows relieving too mush metal around the bore allows the bore to expand and the bullets to wobble as they exit. <–– I'm not sure what that means. Most barrels that have a 1/2" thread will allow a .219 inspection pin to go into the bore 3/4" and stop that means the crown where the bullet exits is larger than the rest of the bore. The land to land dim should be .218 in a .224/5.56 not .219. So guess what the bore looks like in all of those skinny pencil barrels. Tight at the chamber, loose where it get down to 1/2, tight again at the gas block area and loose again when it gets back down to 1/2" dia. 5.56 mm = 0.218898 in. I'm not sure why you're rounding down to .218 when it's much closer to .219". A 7/32" rod is 0.21875" in diameter and shouldn't be binding or "loose" anywhere in the bore. I guess it just depends on the precision of the tools you're using to rifle the bore and inspect it, or the numbers reported by the manufacturers. I took the rifle out today and had no contacts on the brake. It's still intact. I don't have a sled, so I can't tell you exactly how accurate it is, but I hit a silhouette from prone at 310 yds in only a few shots with iron sights (and I'm an amateur), so that seems pretty good to me. This isn't a national match gun; it's more for 3-gun out to 500 yards on silhouettes or 16" plates. Thanks for the precision setup advice. I'm mostly concerned with substantial effects in this case (like >1MOA), and I'm not sure how much difference the items you mentioned will make. Any further details are appreciated. |
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Posted: 9/22/2012 9:35:45 PM
[Last Edit: 9/22/2012 9:40:23 PM by Mad-Machinist]
If you'd like to send it back.......I'll be happy to set it up in the lathe and bore the front of the break to be perfectly concentric with the bore of the rifle......with the offset you have I'm pretty sure it will effect point of impact.............of course if it is consistent.....it shouldn't make that much of a difference accuracy wise.
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