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1/14/2017 8:11:35 PM
Posted: 7/23/2012 12:05:57 PM EST
I was about to install a sling adapter plate onto an older Colt lower when I ran into this castle nut. Not sure how to remove it other than dremel tool and replace with a new nut. What tool do I use as my wrench won't fit the three holes in it. Any ideas?

Is this what's called a Staked Castle nut?

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f240/drail14me/2012-07-23154824.jpg
Link Posted: 7/23/2012 12:16:36 PM EST
You'll need the correct spanner wrench and something to support the lower (you can put the lower in a chair and sit on it to secure it). Then simply loosen with the spanner wrench. It does take some force to break the staking, but that is how it's done.
Link Posted: 7/23/2012 12:17:49 PM EST
That actually looks like the end plate is staked from my PC but maybe it's just me. If it is, I think the sling plate replaces it and the castle nut should still be good.
Link Posted: 7/23/2012 12:23:14 PM EST
Originally Posted By 220:
You'll need the correct spanner wrench and something to support the lower (you can put the lower in a chair and sit on it to secure it). Then simply loosen with the spanner wrench. It does take some force to break the staking, but that is how it's done.


this, you could also get a small screwdriver or scratch awl and try to remove some of the metal. I've used that method on one of the more stubborn colt castle nuts i've removed.
Link Posted: 7/23/2012 1:19:29 PM EST
A DPMS or similar style armorers tool should work on that style castle nut. If you are buying a new nut you could also try using a punch to hit it in the correct direction to loosen it.
Link Posted: 7/23/2012 1:48:45 PM EST
Thanks guys. I've got a TAPCO Armorers tool. I was thinking that the spanner wrench opposite the castle wrench slot on the TAPCO would fit but the single pin won't fit in any of the holes on the castle nut. Maybe I can dremel out the hole a bit.

Since I'm replacing the end plate, I figured I'd dremel out the staking and also replace the castle nut while I'm at it. I guess if the armorers tool won't work then maybe the suggestion of using a punch and hammer to loosen it will work.

Link Posted: 7/23/2012 4:26:51 PM EST
Before you try to break the staking with brute force, remember it's cheaper to replace the castle nut than to buy a new armorer's tool.
Link Posted: 7/23/2012 4:30:51 PM EST
Hell, it's cheaper to buy a castle nut AND a latch plate than a new armorer's tool!
Link Posted: 7/23/2012 5:21:13 PM EST
Looks like in the end you will get rid of the endplate (reason for project) and the castle nut.
That's the old school nut with the little holes....the newer style with notches is easier to deal with.
Link Posted: 7/24/2012 4:32:50 PM EST
[Last Edit: 7/24/2012 4:41:12 PM EST by hk45shooter]
Just get a correct spanner wrench & twist the locking ring (castle nut) in the correct direction. There is not enough metal staked into the lock ring to hurt anything & it will loosen right up with a little effort.

Whatever you do do not cut that lock ring with a dremel if you plan on replacing it with a new castle nut, those are hard to find & in demand from the Retro crowd! You could recoup some of your costs with the sale of that lock ring.

ETA: There should not be three holes in the lock ring if it is original Colt, & seeing the touch up paint it looks original. The spanner wrench will go in the round hole as seen in the middle of the band in your picture. I only specified that cause of your "What tool do I use as my wrench won't fit the three holes in it." comment.

This is what you want to remove that lock ring, or castle nut as you call it: http://www.amazon.com/Military-Steel-Armorers-Spanner-Wrench/dp/B004Q6RVY2
Link Posted: 7/24/2012 8:52:32 PM EST
[Last Edit: 7/24/2012 8:52:43 PM EST by dangerdan]
If you plan on building in the future, its best to have both the square and round toothed spanner wrench. Your castle nuts looks like the one the came with my KAC QD sling end plate.

I have a square toothed spanner wrench, and and armorer tool for general assembly/disassemble that has a round toothed spanner
Link Posted: 7/25/2012 9:13:12 AM EST
Originally Posted By Radar363:
That actually looks like the end plate is staked from my PC but maybe it's just me. If it is, I think the sling plate replaces it and the castle nut should still be good.


The endplate is supposed to be staked into the castlenut.
Link Posted: 7/25/2012 9:22:42 AM EST
Some barrel wrench/combo tools have the spanner for that nut. Take a punch/screwdriver and light hammer and swage the metal out of the notch. It won't take much. No need to replace those parts.
Link Posted: 7/25/2012 2:26:57 PM EST
I know- I misunderstood the OP and couldn't get a good look at the picture at the time. I thought he needed to replace the castle nut because IT was staked. I didn't realize it was an older Colt setup.
Link Posted: 7/28/2012 12:46:57 PM EST
I broke 2 wrenches on my damn DMPS trying to get the castle nut off,dont have a dremil so its still on there haha
Link Posted: 7/28/2012 2:41:03 PM EST
Yikes!
DON'T BREAK THAT STAKING!!!


Unless you intend to keep that Colt lower for the rest of your life, breaking the staking on that lockring will have a monetary effect on the value of that lower/rifle.

There aren't many old Colt lowers out there with their original staking and factory paint on the lockring.



You should rethink that decision... there are other options out there that allow sling mounts while keeping the endplate and lockring (castle nut) intact.
Link Posted: 7/30/2012 9:06:58 AM EST
Oops!!! Broke them loose about an hour ago. I guess I should have checked back here first.

I don't plan on ever selling this lower but I guess I could have built a new one and left this one staked and stored or used for something else.

Either way, it's done now. I dremeled the staking then used a punch to tap the nut loose.

Thanks for the info everyone!
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