8620 so there is not much carbon in the steel I'm not sure what the best way would be to go about it.

anyone have issues with lightening the hammer after installing jp 3.5 spring kit? dont wanna lighten mine and then not have the rifle work this weekend.

Yeah, it's a hell of a lot cheaper and takes 30 minutes.

installed the jp spring kit and the set screw. man what a world of difference! cant wait to shoot it this weekend!

Range report:

Got my yellow springs in this weekend. After trigger testing at the house with yellow springs, cut hammer the hammer did release after a couple butt strikes to the ground. Trigger pull is very shallow and crisp. I had several "light strikes" at the range. Enough to upset me. I will be going with minimum of red hammer spring or stock spring. The take-up did not cause hammer release until after the yellow spring.

Not sure if the hammer is not heavy enough or the spring is not strong enough to engage primer. All primers had indentions although did not fire on rounds I checked after the fact. If this were a zombie strike I would have been dead if I didn't abandon this weapon.

I will be readjusting my trigger situation. I do not blame this thread rather than more myself and the newness to gunsmithing and AR triggers. But one thing is for sure: I will be fixing this to be dependable, solid, accurate and SAFE.

Other than that when it did go bang I was nailing targets in a 40 mph crosswind at 50 and 100 yards like no ones business. Both with a Leapers 4x32 CQB scope and an EOTech 512 with and without the 3x magnifier. This gun is strikeable in all setup.

There is a special place for my AR.

I also noticed a problem with not cycling properly but I will be looking into gas system as I just installed a 2 piece YHM specter gas block with no probs until about 100 rounds into it.

Polished sear and hammer. Installed set screw(Tactical Innovations didn't need tapped, DPMS did) left hammer and springs alone. Much better!! No creep. Still somewhat heavy,but I'm happy.

I recently put together a lower and the stock trigger was awful. It had a nasty "snag" about 2/3 of the way through the travel. Calling it gritty just doesn't properly describe what it felt like.

I just did part of this trigger job. Polished the sear face slightly to get rid of the machine marks and put some Tetra grease on the mating surfaces. Just this minor work not only took the "snag" out of my trigger, but it's nice and smooth and crisp. I am using the stock springs for now.

The lower is an AGP and it has a separate threaded hole and came with a set screw to take up the pretravel. For now I decided to leave this alone because this is a HD gun and I like having the safety margin the full travel camming action provides.

I did this today to my Spikes Battle Trigger. Used a band saw and wide mouth sheet metal pillars to get a straight cut on the hammer. Added the JP yellow springs and set screw as well. Trigger pull is close to my kimber 1911 (4 lbs) and out of 200 shots, not a single light strike, passed all drop tests.. Looking at the primers and comparing to my pre trigger job, the hammer is hitting just as hard with the lights as with the stock using M885 Lake City 5.56. Should have done this a long time ago.

there should be a sticky so we don't have to read through all the mumbo. I finished honing and polishing (to a mirror shine) the trigger of my sig516, feels crisp as hell. second trigger job, first was a tapco 2 in my wasr 10/63.

Can I bend and/or cut the stock springs to reduce the pull?

Will this screw modification and jp spring setup have a substantial effect on a Daniel Defense LPK?

I wasn't sure if a company like DD would make a lpk that wouldn't benefit from this modification, but I just finished putting my rifle back together. For tapping the grip screw I used a 1/4-28 NF tap and used a 1/4" set screw and all I can say is WOW! I didn't realize how much of a change this would make. I was afraid I'd mess up the tapping process and ruin my lower, but once it caught the threads it was easy, just used royal purple to oil the threads as i threaded it in.

Very snappy, not too heavy trigger that breaks instantly and has very little post travel

Considering the speed hammer and jp springs but we'll see how this turns out

I've been doing AR triggers the same way for quite a few years now. Bend the right leg of the hammer spring 30 degrees back (don't cut it) and let it slip under the trigger pin, bend both legs of the trigger spring up a bit (the angle varies gun to gun), barely stone the contact surfaces, and grease everything with Magnalube, I haven't been as concerned with the shortest possible trigger on most of them, but the 2nd AR I built (varmint gun) had a set screw. Now I'm building a new precision AR so I need to fetch another set screw since this lower (Para) doesn't have one in it.



Legal, yes. Intelligent, not in the slightest. With the trigger that light there's a very real chance that the gun will runaway if you drop it.