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 Woodys556
Woody's Best Friend
Team Member
Joined: Apr 2011  KY, USA
 Posts: 114 Feedback: 0% (0) Link To This Post |
Posted: 5/18/2011 9:29:32 AM
[Last Edit: 5/18/2011 9:31:11 AM by Woodys556]
Vader,
I am about to try this. I have a couple of questions for you. 1.How do you measure the current using a volt/amp meter? 2.What amp level are you using for your lowers? How does that change for doing a A3 Upper, if any? 3. I am seeing in other posts and internet that RIT dye is a good choice. Have you used RIT? 4.How do you do the flames? are you using a vinyl stencil to mask off the anodizing and dying process? 5. Are you agitating the acid bath with an air pump? 6.Have you ever De-Anodised a factory upper to re-anodise it to match one of your lowers? I am trying to pull together a concensus of information from about 6 internet sourses. I have an OLD A1 upper I am thinking of trying the with. I am going to get some Un Anodized Uppers for my build once I get this process going. I saw a video on YouTube and it looks very doable. Thanks for any help you can give. |
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Posted: 5/18/2011 2:51:37 PM
Woodys556, if you find unanodized uppers let us know where you got them!!!!
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Minuteman
Member
Team Member
Joined: Nov 2000 WA, USA
Posts: 206 Feedback: 100% (3) Link To This Post |
Posted: 5/18/2011 4:12:36 PM
I pre-ordered a couple from here.
rangetool.com The should ship early june. I'll post pics when received. |
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Woodys556
Woody's Best Friend
Team Member
Joined: Apr 2011 KY, USA
Posts: 115 Feedback: 0% (0) Link To This Post |
Posted: 5/18/2011 4:31:25 PM
Originally Posted By Minuteman:
I pre-ordered a couple from here. rangetool.com The should ship early june. I'll post pics when received. This |
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Posted: 5/18/2011 4:54:54 PM
Why thank you both. Just what the doctor ordered....
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Posted: 5/18/2011 5:01:09 PM
[Last Edit: 5/18/2011 5:01:54 PM by pipewelder74]
New to the site..Love it! I just finished my 80% lower and wanted to throw my two cents out there...
First, I am proud to say that my machining turned out perfectly...  . I flip-flopped on whether or not to buy the jig and decided against..Found that there is no real need for it, as RAY-VIN's tutorial is the bible of the lower build. Chapters 3 and 10 give you all the measurements you need to complete the 80%. I also made the jig as outlined in his drawings. (just google ray-vin if you havn't come across it yet).
Secondly, I want to share a blunder I made in my anodizing attempt. My total ignorance about electricity and chemistry should have deterred me from even attempting it..but alas...Anyway FYI - Battery acid is only around 30% sulfuric, making a 1:1 anodizing bath about 15% acid. SO––If you have access to straight (95%) sulfuric acid...UHHH..DON"T use it at 1:1 ratio...nuff said 
Even after I got the solution correct, I struggled with the proper current...blah blah..It just didn't happen, so I settled with a nice coat of rattle-can Olive drab. Looks really good and will certainly be good enough for my uses.. Good luck to all on your builds!! |
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Woodys556
Woody's Best Friend
Team Member
Joined: Apr 2011 KY, USA
Posts: 120 Feedback: 0% (0) Link To This Post |
Posted: 5/19/2011 8:04:49 PM
Originally Posted By Doernuth:
Why thank you both. Just what the doctor ordered.... I get mine first!!!!! |
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Posted: 5/20/2011 8:40:18 AM
You're a mad scientist. That is fucking sweet!!!
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Posted: 5/26/2011 9:02:49 PM
I tried to send you a message vader but your inbox was full. Ill try again later.
Jake |
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Woodys556
Woody's Best Friend
Team Member
Joined: Apr 2011 KY, USA
Posts: 140 Feedback: 0% (0) Link To This Post |
Posted: 5/27/2011 8:16:26 AM
Originally Posted By jlang95:
I tried to send you a message vader but your inbox was full. Ill try again later. Jake I too have tried to contact him with no luck. If anybody has a way to get ahold of him and have him check his email and this topic he started please do so. I (We) have some questions for him. |
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Posted: 5/28/2011 1:50:32 PM
I’ve been busy selling things off so I can get a CNC mill
. I live back in the hills and I’m on dialup I’ve needed to keep the phone lines open, so I’ve had little or no computer time.
I’ve seen a couple of the questions and most if not all of the answers are somewhere in the thread. I know they can get lost with all the post, but they are there. I’ll see about clearing my inbox, I didn’t know it was full. |
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Woodys556
Woody's Best Friend
Team Member
Joined: Apr 2011 KY, USA
Posts: 157 Feedback: 0% (0) Link To This Post |
Posted: 6/2/2011 12:47:45 PM
[Last Edit: 6/2/2011 1:41:47 PM by Woodys556]
FYI for all,
Ron Newman at Moolight Telescopes (where Vader got his anodizing stuff) is a REAL JERK to deal with. If ya order from him hope and pray you don't have to talk to him on the phone. Not sure about the quality of his products, yet, because I can't get it delivered and when questioned, he went nuts on me. Shitty customer service. and attitude. |
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Posted: 6/3/2011 10:27:35 AM
I have heard that before in other forums. The advice on those forums was to just order through his website, and that he always shipped ASAP. I found that to be true, but the ONE time I tried to get a custom order (I asked for extra wire instead of a plate) he just shipped the plate.
As far as I know he’s the only game in town, if anyone knows if there’s ANY alternative please post it here. |
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Posted: 6/3/2011 11:03:20 AM
Caswell Plating.
Here I haven't used their kit but it is similar to Moonlights. Might be worth a shot.... I did buy heaters from them for the tanks that worked well. |
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Posted: 6/29/2011 1:52:38 PM
Building has been real slow due to the fact it’s been hard to get entry level uppers. My last order from Del-Ton took over 9 weeks and even then they only shipped about half the order.
Here’s a couple we’ve done lately. 
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Posted: 7/27/2011 10:20:31 AM
Great work! It's great to see folks doing scratch work..
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Posted: 7/30/2011 1:09:17 PM
I found great alternative to vinyl for etching. I tried it works really well.
It will cost only $25 and all you need is laser printer Ideas is to use photoresist film as they do for making PCB. Buy photoresist film with film developer and remover for $12 on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/Photoresist-Film-Sheets-Photo-Etched-PE-PCB-/250863909437?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a68a77a3d Buy transparent film for laser printers $12 on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/Innovera-Laser-Printer-Transparency-Film-/130538696766?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e64b6703e Details of process are described in first ebay link. But general steps are: 1. Print what you need on transparent film (do 2 copies, and stack them on top of each other - result is much better) 2. Attach photoresist film to receiver (first remove vinyl coating from one side of photoresist and attach it on that side) 3. Put transparent film with whatever you printed on top of photoresist film and ultraviolet it for 5-10 minutes (press film with piece of glass so there are no shadows, etc) 4. Remove second layer of vinyl coating form photoresist and "develop" it - use developer - stuff that was not exposed to ultraviolet will be dissolved 5 Etch 6 Remove remaining photoresist - use photorest remover. More pictures of process here (they do PCB, but for receiver process is exactly the same) http://hackedgadgets.com/2006/06/24/photo-etch-circuit-board-process/ PS. you dont even need to buy photoresist kit with developer and remover. For removing you can use drain cleaner and for developing you can use baking soda. |
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Posted: 10/7/2011 7:23:51 PM
Originally Posted By VaderSpade:
http://www.randysrockshop.com/calguns/Dscn7253.jpg As I mover deeper I leave just a little more, kind of a step cut. This keeps shaving from being crushed against the side, and cleans up easily when we move to a full length end mill. Yes, exactly. I often do the same thing. But not on AR lowers. Yet. Another note about finish and the chips... I have found that when milling along an edge, I get a much better finish if I have the direction of the cut so that it is "pulling" the tool along the side surface. With respect to the above pic, that means on the FAR side of the picture, an endmill spinning clockwise (like almost everything does) would travel from right to left. Here, the tool's cutting path is counter clockwise around the fixture. This somewhat goes against what books teach or say to do. I've done almost 1000 hours of endmilling up against edges like that anytime I pay attention to direction, it looks better doing it this way. Books teach to have the tool cut into the direction of of travel (it looks to me like this is how the part pictured was cut). So on the far side: left to right; on the right side: far to near; etc etc. I have found that when cutting "properly" like this, I end up with a wavy finish similar to above. And when I get aggressive, I'll hear chattering and then chips will get smashed between the mill and the surface and stick there. I always have my spindle between 900 and 1000 rpm. Just my two more cents... if you try it, please let me know if it works for you or if it was a wasted effort. :) Chris |
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Posted: 10/19/2011 6:57:34 AM
Nice work!
Remember Builders Squad - Alpha! |
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Posted: 10/25/2011 6:42:16 PM
If you buy an 80% receiver that is already anodized such as the one offered Colfax tactical, will it matter if the trigger pocket is not anodized once you mill it out? I would like to use a trigger system like Timney's Trigger.
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Posted: 10/26/2011 9:12:05 AM
Originally Posted By Evil363:
If you buy an 80% receiver that is already anodized such as the one offered Colfax tactical, will it matter if the trigger pocket is not anodized once you mill it out? I would like to use a trigger system like Timney's Trigger. Lots of people are doing it and I haven’t heard of any problems. Hell Plum Crazy make plastic lowers. |
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Posted: 10/26/2011 9:18:52 AM
I just got my new toy up and running. Now I just need to learn how to use it.
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Gatorhunt
Honesty is the first chapter in the book of wisdom
Team Member
Joined: Nov 2008 FL, USA
Posts: 8235 Feedback: 100% (129) Link To This Post |
Posted: 10/26/2011 12:06:52 PM
Originally Posted By VaderSpade: I just got my new toy up and running. Now I just need to learn how to use it. http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx174/VaderSpade/Dscn9278.jpg I would give my left testicle for one of those   Don't you need to move to South Florida for some reason, I'm looking for a new neighbor?  There's some really cool videos on youtube of the 1100 in action.  |
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Ryo
Lifetime Shooter
Life Member
Joined: Aug 2007 USA
Posts: 4563 Feedback: 100% (84) Link To This Post |
Posted: 10/26/2011 2:05:36 PM
Nice.. now you can make your own stuff, as well as engrave. Nice.
You bought that to run a business or just for a hobby? |
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Posted: 10/26/2011 2:46:54 PM
Originally Posted By Ryo:
Nice.. now you can make your own stuff, as well as engrave. Nice. You bought that to run a business or just for a hobby? I hope to work it into a business, but I think that will be a ways down the road. I do plan on holding some U-CNC build parties. :) we'll be doing AR-15's, AR-10'S, 10/22's, and at some point 1011's. |
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