 VaderSpade
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Joined: Mar 2009  CA, USA
 Posts: 100 Feedback: 0% (0) Link To This Post |
Posted: 2/9/2011 7:04:18 PM
My friends coyote rifle, we’ll try to anodize it coyote brown.
This one is a Colfax Tactical lower, good people. 
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Posted: 2/13/2011 2:35:07 AM
Originally Posted By VaderSpade:
This one is a Colfax Tactical lower, good people. and right up the hill from me.  |
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Posted: 2/13/2011 2:07:01 PM
So I made the plunge. Lower and Jig will be here on Wednesday!!! Wish me luck.
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Posted: 2/19/2011 11:59:36 PM
PS Colfax tactical is about to have .308's
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Posted: 2/23/2011 12:20:54 PM
That... is the coolest thing I've seen on ARFCOM.
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Posted: 3/3/2011 12:27:13 PM
What an awesome and inspiring post. I just ordered my first 80% and jig. Now I just need a mill on craigslist. Do you have any info or BATF letters regarding 80% and finishing them. Do you need to pay a $200 tax stamp fee and register it? Any info would be greatly appreciated...
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Posted: 3/3/2011 12:37:56 PM
What an awesome and inspiring post. I just ordered my first 80% and jig. Now I just need a mill on craigslist. Do you have any info or BATF letters regarding 80% and finishing them. Do you need to pay a $200 tax stamp fee and register it? Any info would be greatly appreciated...
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Ryo
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Joined: Aug 2007 USA
Posts: 4244 Feedback: 100% (84) Link To This Post |
Posted: 3/4/2011 2:30:58 AM
Originally Posted By viperjody:
What an awesome and inspiring post. I just ordered my first 80% and jig. Now I just need a mill on craigslist. Do you have any info or BATF letters regarding 80% and finishing them. Do you need to pay a $200 tax stamp fee and register it? Any info would be greatly appreciated... No you don't pay anything to ATF. You don't even have to report it.. hence the appeal of the 80% to a lot of people. $200 tax stamps are for other things like suppressors or other NFA items. |
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Posted: 3/7/2011 8:23:19 AM
Tactical machining has their determination letters on their web site. Check out the BATFE site FAQ's for more information, your covered unless your state prohibits it.
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Posted: 3/10/2011 8:07:07 PM
[Last Edit: 3/10/2011 8:07:30 PM by zulthor]
Very nice
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VaderSpade
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Joined: Mar 2009 CA, USA
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Posted: 3/20/2011 11:00:42 PM
Anodized a couple more, now for a little paint.
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futuremodal
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Joined: May 2010 WA, USA
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Posted: 3/20/2011 11:29:43 PM
Originally Posted By VaderSpade: Anodized a couple more, now for a little paint. http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx174/VaderSpade/Dscn8759.jpg http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx174/VaderSpade/Dscn8790.jpg Dang it! You stole my "Mudflap Girl" idea!  |
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Posted: 3/21/2011 8:40:42 AM
[Last Edit: 3/21/2011 9:34:50 AM by Doernuth]
I haven't gotten to annodizing yet. Still working on the etching and lettering.
Hope mine turn out half as well as yours. BTW what font/lettersize do you use on your cutter for the lettering? Found the answer on page Four. I have the same cutter but am having trouble keeping the centers of A's and O's in place when doing the transfer. The tape wants to pull them off when I remove it. I am thinking that I need to adjust the force of the cut to make it shallower. If you are using the signblazer software can you email a template of your lettering file? |
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Ryo
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Joined: Aug 2007 USA
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Posted: 3/22/2011 12:20:00 PM
Originally Posted By Doernuth:
I haven't gotten to annodizing yet. Still working on the etching and lettering. Hope mine turn out half as well as yours. BTW what font/lettersize do you use on your cutter for the lettering? Found the answer on page Four. I have the same cutter but am having trouble keeping the centers of A's and O's in place when doing the transfer. The tape wants to pull them off when I remove it. I am thinking that I need to adjust the force of the cut to make it shallower. If you are using the signblazer software can you email a template of your lettering file? Haven't tried this yet, but possible you could have the A & O centers still attached to the main body and after placing the vinyl, cut out the attaching centers. Since your etching, the cuts (assuming not deep) should go away. Just a thought.. |
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VaderSpade
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Joined: Mar 2009 CA, USA
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Posted: 3/24/2011 12:47:08 PM
My fill work needs a tune up but I’m happy with the way the bee turned out. I’m not sure just how my next one will turn out, but it’s fun to challenge myself. My buddy Scott is doing most of the art work on the flame and skull lower.
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dogbutter99
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Joined: Jul 2010 TX, USA
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Posted: 4/17/2011 7:13:54 AM
wow
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Posted: 4/24/2011 11:00:05 PM
That green one on P.4 makes me a little excited in the pants..... HA!
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Posted: 4/27/2011 10:05:46 PM
Very Awesome builds! Thank you for the anodizing, and etching info!
Another source for 80% Lowers : http://www.ar15plus.com/aboutus.asp Will post a pic of mine soon |
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Posted: 5/2/2011 12:43:17 AM
Mr. Spade-
I finally got around to doing some test anodizing runs and have a few questions for you. 1. After anodizing, I dunked my part in the Caswells Black HBL dye heated to about 120 F (per package instructions) for about 10 mins, then sealed it in boiling distilled water for 30 mins. Is it normal after pulling the part out, for a decent amount of dye to rub off with a paper towel? 2. The black HBL dye is a lot darker (and bluer) than the type III anodizing on my upper and forearm. How do you better match your lowers to your preanodized uppers? I figured I could dunk the part in the dye for less time, but I think it would just be a lighter version of a blue/black rather than the gray/black that you get with type III ano. Any ideas? Thanks, -Tom |
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Posted: 5/2/2011 10:32:05 AM
It is normal for some dye to rub off, and yes type II is darker than type III. Unless you anodize both parts at the same time it’s hard to get a perfect match.
Here are some more of mine. 
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Posted: 5/2/2011 10:56:21 AM
Thanks for the reply....I wish 'some' of mine equated to '11'!!!
Have you ever tried mixing a black and gray dye to get something closer to a type III ano? On another note, I noticed that my power supply isn't constant current, but rather constant voltage. It seems to anodize, but the small test piece I did ran for two hours, and the current hadn't start dropping at that point (was about 1.7 Amps). Unfortunately, I was time constrained, so I had to pull the part out. It was starting to look golden, but wasn't to the extent of your pics, so I'm not sure that the process is working correctly. Do you think I need to get a different power supply? Thanks, -Tom |
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Posted: 5/2/2011 3:26:02 PM
It’s hard to say whether your power supply is doing a good job without seeing it in person. BUT one good test is how well the part takes the dye. An un-anodized or weakly anodized part will not take dye. I have lost my contact on parts and the dye barely penetrated the part.
It sounds like you got decent penetration. I have not tried mixing dyes to lighten my lowers. |
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Posted: 5/6/2011 1:38:18 PM
VaderSpade-
Do you remember what font you used for the text on the receivers you show on page 1 of this thread. I know someone posed the question earlier in the thread, but the font you replied with looks nothing like the one I want to find on page 1. Thanks, -2t0ner |
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Posted: 5/8/2011 1:45:33 PM
I have changed fonts since page 1.
As stated I now use GungsuhChe, I think I was using Gungsuh (without the Che) on page 1 but it is hard to see a difference so it may have been a font that is lost to my memory? |
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mlr052869
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Joined: Jan 2009 TX, USA
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Posted: 5/18/2011 8:24:26 AM
Great info here.... You are a true man's man...
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