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Posted: 12/7/2010 11:55:53 AM
Originally Posted By sgt_mike:
Spade, outstanding post especially with the etching. I wish I had seen this post when I was doing my 80% Yellow logic lower (for a 6.5 Grendel Build). Which I had a local Trophy Shop do my lettering. They did not get quite deep enough so when I duracoat the Lower a Lot of the detail went away I would have preferred your method as the etching look quite a bit deeper. Like you have mentioned this route is not cheaper by a long shot personally for me was to control the tolerance and the pride of doing it myself. With this being said can't wait to do another. with that being said could you assist with doing a couple sets from your cutter nothing fancy just text. Thanks and again Kudos for your post.  PM sent |
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Posted: 12/8/2010 5:32:42 PM
There is an alternative for vinyl stencil for etching.
You can use method that is used for making printed circuit boards (PCBs) All you need is laser printer and glossy paper. More details here and pictures are here: http://www.riccibitti.com/pcb/pcb.htm Idea of the method is that regular laser printers actually prints with some kind of plastic but not ink. Print "stencil" on glossy paper, then transfer the it to the receiver. Heat receiver to 350-380F, then press paper with image into it. Cool down, put in water, carefully rub away paper, you'll get "stencil" melted onto receiver. I didn't try it on lower itself, but I tried it on other aluminum part and it worked. |
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Posted: 12/13/2010 10:03:48 PM
I have a question or two someone can hopefully answer:
(1) I see that TM and others are now selling pre-anodized 80% lowers. So if one was to mill out one of these, do they need to be re-coated/protected somehow on the newly milled portion or are they GTG once the milling is done? (2) What is the best way to mark as your own a pre-anodized 80% lower? |
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Posted: 12/14/2010 6:06:31 AM
Originally Posted By futuremodal:
I have a question or two someone can hopefully answer: (1) I see that TM and others are now selling pre-anodized 80% lowers. So if one was to mill out one of these, do they need to be re-coated/protected somehow on the newly milled portion or are they GTG once the milling is done? (2) What is the best way to mark as your own a pre-anodized 80% lower? What would be the point of a pre-anodized 80% lower? It just would put more wear on the cutting tools, and you might want to re-anodize it later anyway. |
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Posted: 12/14/2010 8:35:10 PM
Originally Posted By Tomtbo: Originally Posted By futuremodal: I have a question or two someone can hopefully answer: (1) I see that TM and others are now selling pre-anodized 80% lowers. So if one was to mill out one of these, do they need to be re-coated/protected somehow on the newly milled portion or are they GTG once the milling is done? (2) What is the best way to mark as your own a pre-anodized 80% lower? What would be the point of a pre-anodized 80% lower? It just would put more wear on the cutting tools, and you might want to re-anodize it later anyway. Not sure, that's why I asked. There must be a reason - TM is currently out of stock of their pre-anodized 80%'ers. |
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Posted: 12/15/2010 9:49:59 AM
Originally Posted By Tomtbo:
Originally Posted By futuremodal:
I have a question or two someone can hopefully answer: (1) I see that TM and others are now selling pre-anodized 80% lowers. So if one was to mill out one of these, do they need to be re-coated/protected somehow on the newly milled portion or are they GTG once the milling is done? (2) What is the best way to mark as your own a pre-anodized 80% lower? What would be the point of a pre-anodized 80% lower? It just would put more wear on the cutting tools, and you might want to re-anodize it later anyway. machining through anodize puts very very little extra wear on the tooling. its negligible infact. I just recently finished one of the pre anodized lowers. it turned out great., one of these days I'll set up and re anodize it, probably not until I have to engrave it for the SBR paperwork. it looks great without it. since it is 7075 it will corrode, so I'll keep the inside well protected. |
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Posted: 12/18/2010 12:29:19 PM
A quick review of the different 80% lowers I've finished.
AR-15 plus (Vida Rica) the ones I finished were the old style (open pocket) and not that great, I’m not sure what they are selling now but I paid WAY too much at the time. I just checked and I see they still want too much money. Yellow Logic, Great lowers but you pay for the quality, milled from 7075 billet, I’m not sure if they are still making lowers? If money is no object check these out. Quentin Defense very good quality milled from 6061, a little more money but worth it for a special build. Kevin’s lowers, these lowers were way out of spec, when I called Kevin on it he said I was an idiot and would only screw them up anyway. In the end he replaced them, but to this day these lowers have upper fit problems. I just dedicated uppers to them and ground the pins to fit. I would avoid at all cost. Tactical Machining, I have watched their quality improve as they worked out any bugs they had. Probably the best lower for the money, great people with great customer support. Colfax Tactical, These lowers are very nice, a little more money that Tactical Machining, BUT you are supporting a small family business from California. I like that the takedown pocket is done this is the toughest area to get to. They also have a nice hand finish, a little warmer look. Also great people with great customer support. After all the lowers I have built I will continue to support both Tactical Machining, and Colfax Tactical. I think they are the best out there. |
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Posted: 12/18/2010 1:09:43 PM
Originally Posted By VaderSpade: A quick review of the different 80% lowers I've finished. AR-15 plus (Vida Rica) the ones I finished were the old style (open pocket) and not that great, I’m not sure what they are selling now but I paid WAY too much at the time. I just checked and I see they still want too much money. Yellow Logic, Great lowers but you pay for the quality, milled from 7075 billet, I’m not sure if they are still making lowers? If money is no object check these out. Quentin Defense very good quality milled from 6061, a little more money but worth it for a special build. Kevin’s lowers, these lowers were way out of spec, when I called Kevin on it he said I was an idiot and would only screw them up anyway. In the end he replaced them, but to this day these lowers have upper fit problems. I just dedicated uppers to them and ground the pins to fit. I would avoid at all cost. Tactical Machining, I have watched their quality improve as they worked out any bugs they had. Probably the best lower for the money, great people with great customer support. Colfax Tactical, These lowers are very nice, a little more money that Tactical Machining, BUT you are supporting a small family business from California. I like that the takedown pocket is done this is the toughest area to get to. They also have a nice hand finish, a little warmer look. Also great people with great customer support. After all the lowers I have built I will continue to support both Tactical Machining, and Colfax Tactical. I think they are the best out there. Thanks. Looks like I made the right choice going with Colfax and TM. |
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Ryo
Lifetime Shooter
Life Member
Joined: Aug 2007  USA
 Posts: 4144 Feedback: 100% (84) Link To This Post |
Posted: 12/18/2010 11:21:37 PM
Originally Posted By VaderSpade:
A quick review of the different 80% lowers I've finished. AR-15 plus (Vida Rica) the ones I finished were the old style (open pocket) and not that great, I’m not sure what they are selling now but I paid WAY too much at the time. I just checked and I see they still want too much money. Yellow Logic, Great lowers but you pay for the quality, milled from 7075 billet, I’m not sure if they are still making lowers? If money is no object check these out. Quentin Defense very good quality milled from 6061, a little more money but worth it for a special build. Kevin’s lowers, these lowers were way out of spec, when I called Kevin on it he said I was an idiot and would only screw them up anyway. In the end he replaced them, but to this day these lowers have upper fit problems. I just dedicated uppers to them and ground the pins to fit. I would avoid at all cost. Tactical Machining, I have watched their quality improve as they worked out any bugs they had. Probably the best lower for the money, great people with great customer support. Colfax Tactical, These lowers are very nice, a little more money that Tactical Machining, BUT you are supporting a small family business from California. I like that the takedown pocket is done this is the toughest area to get to. They also have a nice hand finish, a little warmer look. Also great people with great customer support. After all the lowers I have built I will continue to support both Tactical Machining, and Colfax Tactical. I think they are the best out there. Yellow Logic is a beautiful lower, but it's really expensive. |
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Posted: 12/27/2010 10:47:37 AM
Vader-
I'm getting close to being able to try my luck an some anodizing. However, I've got a couple questions about the anodizing process: What voltage is the power supply/batt charger you're using for this? Also, what kind of current draw do you have when anodizing an AR-15 lower? What about an AR-10 lower? Finally, about how thick of an oxidation layer are you going for? Thanks -2t0ner |
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Posted: 12/27/2010 2:16:21 PM
We just had a small build party last week (8 lowers), when it was time to anodize we set up three buckets each with its own battery charger. They all seemed to work just fine. We set them on the 12 V 10 amp settings. The two that had gauges showed a draw of about 7 amps to start. I watch my gauge climb from about 7 amps to about 10 amps. Shortly after it reaches 10 or 11 amps it starts to drop a little. This takes an hour to an hour and a half.
From what I have read when the amps start to drop you have reached maximum thickness and are starting to eat away aluminum, but it can be very hard to notice. Others have done the math as to amp hours and it works out to about the same amount of time. I have read that an AR-15 lower has about .58 surface feet of aluminum. I don’t have the exact formula as to amp hours per foot, but I’m getting good results. If you don’t get thick anodizing you won’t get good results when dyeing. I lost my connection once and experienced this first hand. In the end I’m just making an educated guess, but it’s been working well. |
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shrikefan
Member
Team Member
Joined: Jan 2007 USA
Posts: 8956 Feedback: 100% (119) Link To This Post |
Posted: 1/16/2011 3:14:49 AM
Outstanding writeup!!
Thanks. |
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Posted: 1/24/2011 11:45:57 AM
More 80% etching, or Why I build my own guns.
I had a build party recently and it got me going on a couple more builds. One of the guys (Scott) really wanted to go all out with his artwork, this lead to learning more about my vinyl cutter and how to get the artwork turned into stencils. That lead to even more artwork, at some point we will be covering every square inch with something. Anyway my buddy Scott put elk on one side of his .308 and mule deer on the other and anodized it bronze. I swore I took a picture but I can’t find it. At some point I’ll get it up, in the meantime here’s a couple I’ve done. 
When I was growing up the family business was raising honeybees, so I put the old business name and trademark along with our brand # on the AR-15. I plan to anodize it honeybee yellow. 
I plan to build a target rifle from this .308 lower and anodize it candy apple red. The feather will of course be white. 
I’m getting quite a collection! 
A little fill work. 
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Ryo
Lifetime Shooter
Life Member
Joined: Aug 2007 USA
Posts: 4175 Feedback: 100% (84) Link To This Post |
Posted: 1/24/2011 12:40:24 PM
Wow.. nice!
Wish I could go to one of your parties. |
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Posted: 1/26/2011 10:14:30 PM
thats an awesome talent you have there spade.. great post.
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Posted: 1/28/2011 10:36:50 AM
Vader what font are you using and what size font are u using on the ar15 lower if ya don't mind me asking? and also what are u using to color them in because it looks like you wiped the excess white off the side of the one or is that just the way the picture turned out. Really great job one this write up I wish I was as skilled
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Posted: 1/28/2011 2:31:25 PM
Font is GungsuhChe, the size of the letters is between 1/8 and 1/4 depending where I want it to fit. 1/8 inch is about as small as you can go.
I used white testers model paint, and I do get lazy when wiping it off and cleaning it up. It will clean up better than that. |
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Posted: 1/29/2011 12:29:48 PM
ok thanks alot man
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Posted: 1/29/2011 6:25:10 PM
Hi All,
Randy AWESOME!!! You are my Hero! I thank you so much for all the explaining that you have done!! In my book, there isn't anything better you can do in this life time that beats offering your knowledge to help others! First thing Monday I am going to place my order with Tactical Machining so I will be ready to start on it as soon as the weather warms up! Have a nice weekend. Ace |
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Posted: 2/3/2011 8:22:04 AM
Ok im inspired and want to try this for myself. I do have one question though...
How do you do the contrast coloring on the letters and symbols after anealing? Are they just filled in with paint? If so what kind? Those guns look great and I want to build my own soon. Need to get the money together to order the jigs and 80% lowers. |
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Posted: 2/3/2011 11:27:00 AM
I used testers model paint on the lettering. Fill the letters, let it dry, wipe off the excess with thinner.
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Posted: 2/3/2011 11:59:14 AM
Originally Posted By VaderSpade:
I used testers model paint on the lettering. Fill the letters, let it dry, wipe off the excess with thinner. Is the paint resistant to common gun lubes and cleaners? |
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Posted: 2/3/2011 1:29:51 PM
Not totally, I did soak a lower in WD when I wiped it down the paint came off. Normal oiling should not be a problem I wipe mine down all the time.
In the end it’s easy to take off and about as easy to put back, so when it gets looking a little weathered I just clean it off and redo it. |
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Posted: 2/3/2011 9:11:02 PM
Thanks sounds like a good plan. Do you wipe with acetone before applying the paint?
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Posted: 2/3/2011 9:26:54 PM
Yes, wipe it down with, acetone, paint thinner, lacquer thinner, alcohol, anything that will clean all the oil off.
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