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Posted: 11/5/2009 8:19:02 AM EDT
[#1]
From the reports of tight holes and odd substances on the lowers, it sounds to me like the anodizer was a bit overzealous in his work. Nothing to be overly concerned about, things will wear in. I'm waiting to hear from my FFL about his sending paperwork to Centerfire so I can order an upper and lower and build me a patrol carbine... which we can't carry yet... but hopefully the Chief will fix that soon
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Posted: 11/5/2009 4:53:05 PM EDT
[#2]
Quoted:
From the reports of tight holes and odd substances on the lowers, it sounds to me like the anodizer was a bit overzealous in his work. Nothing to be overly concerned about, things will wear in. I'm waiting to hear from my FFL about his sending paperwork to Centerfire so I can order an upper and lower and build me a patrol carbine... which we can't carry yet... but hopefully the Chief will fix that soon Not to rain on your parade, but you MAY want to wait and see what the rules are with regard to what your dept. will allow. A lot of depts. are pretty particular about what is and is not allowed as a patrol rifle/carbine. |
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Posted: 11/5/2009 5:04:16 PM EDT
[#3]
Quoted: Quoted: From the reports of tight holes and odd substances on the lowers, it sounds to me like the anodizer was a bit overzealous in his work. Nothing to be overly concerned about, things will wear in. I'm waiting to hear from my FFL about his sending paperwork to Centerfire so I can order an upper and lower and build me a patrol carbine... which we can't carry yet... but hopefully the Chief will fix that soon Not to rain on your parade, but you MAY want to wait and see what the rules are with regard to what your dept. will allow. A lot of depts. are pretty particular about what is and is not allowed as a patrol rifle/carbine. Stop messing up my justification for a new gun!  If the Chief doesn't like whatever I build, I'll just build or buy one he does like. Which means another new gun |
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Posted: 11/5/2009 5:22:22 PM EDT
[#4]
From the reviews from owners and the quality issues, sounds like you get what you pay for with these. When a manufacturer doesn't even bother to check simple features like the hole diameters or depth of threads, it makes me wonder what else they may have missed.
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Posted: 11/5/2009 5:42:14 PM EDT
[#5]
Quoted:
From the reviews from owners and the quality issues, sounds like you get what you pay for with these. When a manufacturer doesn't even bother to check simple features like the hole diameters or depth of threads, it makes me wonder what else they may have missed. What else is there TO miss? A lower is a chunk of aluminum with a bunch of holes drilled in very particular places. I agree that their QC probably needs a bit of work, but I don't think the difference is $100+ worth of difference. I don't make $200/hr, so an extra 30 min to tap a grip screw hole was WELL worth the difference in price. And even if you DO pay that extra $100, there's no guarantee that you won't end up with a lower that STILL has some minor issues. It's your money... |
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Posted: 11/5/2009 7:36:28 PM EDT
[#6]
Quoted: Quoted: I'm guessing that the upper is not cut for M4 feedramps since it doesn't say in the description. Anyone with this upper that can give me the real scoop? You are correct. No M4 ramps in the upper. I personally couldn't give two shits about M4 ramps, because they're not necessary. If you want M4 ramps though, the upper ain't got 'em. <snip> I've been looking for a billet upper w/ M4 feedramps for a 6.8 (or larger) build I've had on the drawing board for a while. But I will still probably buy at least one of these! ETA: Very nice review, too, btw! See you went w/ the upper/lower combo... I probably will also. For this price, why not? |
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Posted: 11/5/2009 8:34:11 PM EDT
[#7]
Yeah, I actually had bought the upper with a doublestar lower a few months back, when they were offering them as a package deal. When the lowers came available, I saw it as the perfect opportunity to complete the set. I'm going to be building the upper tomorrow, and will offer a quick write-up and pics of that as well.
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Posted: 11/6/2009 6:13:48 AM EDT
[#8]
Quoted:
Quoted:
From the reviews from owners and the quality issues, sounds like you get what you pay for with these. When a manufacturer doesn't even bother to check simple features like the hole diameters or depth of threads, it makes me wonder what else they may have missed. What else is there TO miss? A lower is a chunk of aluminum with a bunch of holes drilled in very particular places. I agree that their QC probably needs a bit of work, but I don't think the difference is $100+ worth of difference. I don't make $200/hr, so an extra 30 min to tap a grip screw hole was WELL worth the difference in price. And even if you DO pay that extra $100, there's no guarantee that you won't end up with a lower that STILL has some minor issues. It's your money... Looking at the drawing for an upper or lower receiver which you can get here there are tons of features that are very tightly controlled, much tighter than a hole diameter. Locations of features is critical if you understand how to read the drawing and if a machinist can't get the correct size drill or reamer, or is too lazy to bother to check their threads, I wouldn't be so sure that they aren't going to have issues with making sure that they are cutting the part to print. I understand that the receiver is a billet and is a little different than the forged receiver print, but the differences are merely cosmetic for the most part when it comes to machining the receiver correctly I work in Quality Assurance and I work with machined parts every day so I see this type of thing day in and day out. When a part comes in with features that are easily verified ( i.e. holes sizes ) you better take a closer look at the rest of the part because it is very likely that that isn't the only thing wrong with it. These particular receivers may be just fine other than what customers have found so far, but I can almost guarantee if I had their drawing and checked one out I would find more wrong with it other than just threads or hole diameters. The receiver may work okay even with some features out of tolerance, but you are taking your chances on that. I am just giving my opinion from my career experience. 
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Posted: 11/7/2009 2:23:42 PM EDT
[#9]
I picked a few up...Lots of pics. I found the finish to be very nice. The color matched pretty closely with the Mega Forged upper I used although the finish is considerably different. I hand no problems with the LPK install. I noticed some billet excess come through while intalling the Bolt release lever. I also noticed a very tight fit upper and lower the rear takedown lug. Other then that I think we are good to go on these. I have not shot the rifle yet but function check was good to go. No upper to lower slap either.
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Posted: 11/7/2009 3:06:11 PM EDT
[#10]
Sweet, looks like I won the race to get the first matched set built and posted. Finished this baby up along with 4 others last night.
Assembly of the upper went without a single hitch. The upper is completely flawless. Only thing that could be better would be how tightly the dust cover is retained. Easy fix adjusting the retainer detent on the cover, but I don't know if I'll bother. It stays closed, just isn't as positive as it COULD be. Still needs to be cleaned up and given a rubdown, but I'm only home for about 20 min, before I have to go to a build party and help put together some AKs and PSLs... 
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Posted: 11/7/2009 5:24:44 PM EDT
[#11]
^Niiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiice.
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Posted: 11/7/2009 9:29:50 PM EDT
[#12]
You talked me into trying an upper/lower set. Just placed the order. The new barrel ordered from DEZ needed a home anyway. All the parts are ready to go so I can build it as soon as it arrives. Will report later.
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Posted: 11/7/2009 9:48:34 PM EDT
[#13]
Quoted:
Also, the Logo or lack of, on the mag side is not very appealing
I actually like the idea of not having a horse or a bat or anything on the receiver. I have one of the TNW piston kits. It works fine. I may have to pick up a billet lower at that price. I imagine they are trying to break into the market. David Plain sounds great. Tired of animals on AR's. That snake on Bushy lowers just looks dorky. 
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Posted: 11/8/2009 8:57:56 AM EDT
[#14]
That's it......you guy's convinced me to quit observing in the AR forums and finally build one......actually 2. Yep, I pried open my extremely tight wallet and ordered 2 lowers.
I hope my first build isn't as hard as that frick'n Star Wars Lego set I got for my son! haha |
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Posted: 11/8/2009 9:47:51 AM EDT
[#15]
The TNW is OK. I had a very very low serial number and it had that problem with the fit of the safety. I fixed that without any drama. My mag release was tight, again a little fiddling and its now working fine. I put a Double Start upper on it and they matched so well it was surprising. Still, I have their billet upper receiver so I will have to go ahead and complete the build just for fun. Now this leaves me with an extra RRA lower and upper set....what to do......ummmmm.......looks like yet another AR in my future. I just don't know which to build! Decisions, decisions......
I have a 9mm, a dedicated .22, "several" .223 from varmint to M-4 carbine, mid-length, light weight, HBAR...ummmmm.....this will require some thought. Maybe I will pick up one of their piston kits and build a piston upper for a Christmas present for myself. Or, an SBR.......... |
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Posted: 11/8/2009 7:01:10 PM EDT
[#16]
Going to go buy some powder tomorrow, and load up a few rounds to put through this badboy.
I'll let you guys know if it explodes due to the shallow tapping of the grip screw hole. 
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Posted: 11/10/2009 5:32:47 AM EDT
[#17]
may have been brought up but anyone know if the BAD is functional on these uppers?
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Posted: 11/10/2009 5:37:47 AM EDT
[#18]
Quoted:
may have been brought up but anyone know if the BAD is functional on these uppers? No idea. Always seemed like a silly piece of hardware to me, so I've never tried one. I've always found other stuff I was more interested in putting $30 toward. If somebody wants to send me one, I'll bolt it on and test it, and then send it back, but I don't plan on ever owning one... |
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Posted: 11/10/2009 10:25:55 AM EDT
[#19]
Quoted:
may have been brought up but anyone know if the BAD is functional on these uppers? I have both a magpul and a Phase 5 tactical EBR. From what I have seen the Magpul does not work on Billet Lowers due the bent section. The Phase 5 does work.. i use the Phase 5 on my POF lower and the Magpul on standard forged. |
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Posted: 11/10/2009 7:00:17 PM EDT
[#20]
Quoted:
Maybe I will pick up one of their piston kits and build a piston upper for a Christmas present for myself. Or, an SBR.......... TWOFER!!!       
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Posted: 11/13/2009 6:40:34 AM EDT
[#21]
i just got my lower, first thing i noticed was the grip screw is not threaded the full length of the hole. I think ill just try and get a shorter screw but i am picking up a lpk this weekend and ill see how it goes together.
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Posted: 11/13/2009 2:59:35 PM EDT
[#22]
Just get a 1/4"x28 tap, and tap it deeper. Aluminum taps VERY easily, and you'll be able to use the proper length of screw...
My lower had the same issue, and was easily resolved with just a few turns of the tap. |
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Posted: 11/13/2009 3:04:31 PM EDT
[#23]
Quoted: Just get a 1/4"x28 tap, and tap it deeper. Aluminum taps VERY easily, and you'll be able to use the proper length of screw... My lower had the same issue, and was easily resolved with just a few turns of the tap. And use kerosene as tapping fluid if you don't have any Tap Magic handy. |
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Posted: 11/13/2009 3:12:45 PM EDT
[#24]
Transmission fluid, motor oil, WD-40, Marvel Mystery Oil, Dish Soap, CLP... I've used 'em all.
Aluminum is VERY easy to tap. I've even gotten away without using ANY sort of cutting lube; but I don't necessarily recommend it. |
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Posted: 11/13/2009 3:25:07 PM EDT
[#25]
Quoted: Transmission fluid, motor oil, WD-40, Marvel Mystery Oil, Dish Soap, CLP... I've used 'em all. Aluminum is VERY easy to tap. I've even gotten away without using ANY sort of cutting lube; but I don't necessarily recommend it. I definately wouldn't try tapping anodized aluminum without fluid. The ano is way harder than the aluminum under it and it really, really sucks to snap a tap in an $80 part. |
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Posted: 11/13/2009 4:34:42 PM EDT
[#26]
I use whatever I have handy. Hell, spit works fine. The important thing is to back it out and clear the chips every 1/2 to 3/4 turn or so. Better lube = longer before you gotta back out. Just feel the tap and don't force it.
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Posted: 11/13/2009 4:37:42 PM EDT
[#27]
That's why I said I wouldn't recommend it. But I HAVE done it in the past. I've got a LOT of experience in using taps, so I've got the patience and skill to pull it off.
But yeah, again, I don't recommend it. Kerosene seems like a silly product to use, as compared to readily available oil products that will do a much better job––almost as silly as dish soap.
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Posted: 11/13/2009 4:45:05 PM EDT
[#28]
OK, I can see where this thread is going, "Spit vs. Astroglide, let your wife/GF be the judge." Back to the guns.
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Posted: 11/15/2009 5:01:14 PM EDT
[#29]
Im in for 2 sets
Ill report how it goes also 
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Posted: 11/17/2009 7:09:27 PM EDT
[#30]
 Well, my 2 TNW lowers came in today. Only one problem I'm traveling on business until Friday! Now I have to wait....... some more.... Dang it.
Any ideas on who has the best price on a couple of LPK's I'm going to stay with the econo theme. |
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Posted: 11/18/2009 10:12:06 AM EDT
[#31]
I got 4 yesterday and built one up they seem to be a very good buy. I did have to use a short grip screw.
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Posted: 11/18/2009 10:59:13 AM EDT
[#32]
Alphagunner,
Other then the shallow threads on the pistol grip screw, did you have to tweak anything else? I'm picking two up tomorrow and since it's my first build I'm a little anxious. By the way, that's a great avatar, That RTAK II is a huge knife! |
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Posted: 11/18/2009 3:01:12 PM EDT
[#33]
I built my first with a RRA kit and everything went smooth. I just built another with a CMT kit and the bolt catch buffer detent was too big so I swapped it with another lower's detent I had and all was well. I wish I would have got more
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Posted: 11/19/2009 2:39:18 PM EDT
[#34]
I picked up my 2 receivers, they look great! A rich, even, matte black color. Crisp machining, The Rock River LPK dropped right in without any fit problems. I have one regret.......I didn't order more.
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Posted: 11/19/2009 3:05:14 PM EDT
[#35]
I picked up a lower today....good quality, from what I can tell-no expert. This will be my FIRST experience building an AR ever, so hopefully everything comes together smoothly. I was planning on using a Del-ton kit.
Richard |
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Posted: 11/21/2009 1:36:49 PM EDT
[#36]
I received a few of the TNW billet lowers and was truly impressed. The finish was perfect and it went together great. The upper and lower fit together with no gaps or wobble. This is a high end receiver at a can't pass up price.
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Posted: 11/21/2009 3:50:29 PM EDT
[#37]
No it is not. EDM is slower and more expensive.
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Posted: 11/21/2009 3:53:38 PM EDT
[#38]
Quoted:
No it is not. EDM is slower and more expensive. How's that? Who are you talking to there?
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Posted: 11/21/2009 4:11:41 PM EDT
[#39]
It takes about 30min to wire EDM a magwell. The magwell is about 7 inches for linear distance and 21 sq/in for the EDM for cut. If you expect 28 to 42 sq/in speed range (depending on your machine and your tolerance for breaking wire) you are looking at about 30min cut time. Also the Wire EDM machine cost 100K to 200K.
But a magwell can be CNC cut in 7 to 15 minutes depending on the max RPM of the machine. And this on a machine that costs 25K to 65K. |
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Posted: 11/21/2009 4:22:37 PM EDT
[#40]
You can't mill magwell. Period.
It has to be either EDMed or broached. There's a very good reason that companies use EDM. The market drives the methods, so it's OBVIOUSLY more efficient to EDM than to Broach, or nobody would be doing it. |
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Posted: 11/22/2009 11:18:25 AM EDT
[#41]
You can and it is not good. Unfortunately, some manufactures do just that.
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Posted: 11/22/2009 5:13:45 PM EDT
[#42]
Show me a manufacturer who is able to CNC mill a mag well to spec, and I'll eat my hat.
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Posted: 11/22/2009 6:06:18 PM EDT
[#43]
I recieved my 2 lowers and 2 uppers today.
The lowers where very nice and a bushmaster LPK went right in along with a rock river colapsable stock. I didnt work on either upper.They seemed to fit VERY tight to the lowers ,too tight almost. The only complaint I have so far is the uppers are purple,not black with a purple tinge.Im talkin PURPLE! Very nice otherwise The color dosent bother me. A big THANKS to Kwrangin for pointing these out. Im considering them a great buy
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Posted: 11/22/2009 6:08:16 PM EDT
[#44]
Quoted:
Show me a manufacturer who is able to CNC mill a mag well to spec, and I'll eat my hat. TKS Engineering lowers are milled and I have heard there are others, but I have never bought them so I can’t verify it. I own a TKS and wish I didn’t. Anyways your question is a trick question. Mil-spec states the magwell must be broached, so milled and wire EDM magwells are not per mil-spec. Also I should point out that broaching would have to be faster then wire EDM but I have never ran a broaching machine or run a production line that had one. But knowing how they work it can’t take 30 minutes to pull a broach through a lower. So I think you are really making an erroneous assumption by saying Wire EDM is more efficient then broaching. A broaching machine costs 40K to 60K and a broach is 4K to 12K. whereas a wire EDM is 100K to 200K. The numbers just don’t support your statement. |
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Posted: 11/22/2009 7:08:08 PM EDT
[#45]
The market supports my statement. Do you really think all the major manufacturers are using EDMs just for shits and giggles? NO! They're doing it because it's more efficient for them, and it provides cleaner corners.
You can't mill a mag well square. End of story. |
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Posted: 11/22/2009 10:05:47 PM EDT
[#46]
OK
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Posted: 11/23/2009 2:07:44 PM EDT
[#47]
Picked my lower and upper this afternoon. They fit together snug, not too tight, not too loose. The lower is more matte finish while the upper is more satin. Taking some getting used to the angular look. The machining looks nice and crisp.
Now, what to build? Thinking a heavy barrel because the unit is heavier than a standard forged upper/lower. I already am building a lightweight on an RRA lower right now. |
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Posted: 11/26/2009 10:40:54 AM EDT
[#48]
Hi,
After reading about these I drove over to CenterFire as they are about 20 miles from me. The one I picked up doesn't look like the ones you have pictured, this one they say is forged of 7075. This will be my first build and I do like the looks of it, nice smooth, but the coating is a little thin on mine as on the edges when it hit against another frame it knocked off the coating. But that is ok, this is going to be something to toss in the back and shoot groundhogs, crows, etc. I will let you all know after I find a LRG and get it put in how everything fits. Greg |
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Posted: 11/26/2009 12:43:33 PM EDT
[#49]
Quoted:
Hi, After reading about these I drove over to CenterFire as they are about 20 miles from me. The one I picked up doesn't look like the ones you have pictured, this one they say is forged of 7075. This will be my first build and I do like the looks of it, nice smooth, but the coating is a little thin on mine as on the edges when it hit against another frame it knocked off the coating. But that is ok, this is going to be something to toss in the back and shoot groundhogs, crows, etc. I will let you all know after I find a LRG and get it put in how everything fits. Greg did u get the forged or the billet |
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Posted: 11/26/2009 4:20:08 PM EDT
[#50]
The one I picked up was the forged, part #ARLOWER, they were out of the other one. I talked to them about the other one, and they said it was from someone different, not TNW.
Greg |
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