Jard Adjustable Trigger Install:


First order a Jard Adjustable AR-15 trigger ($120 from midwayusa with CR Discount, 150 without a CR)



First all the tools and equipment you will need to install your trigger. Total time should take around 30-45mins

• 
  Punch


• 
  Hammer


• 
  Hex Key Set


• 
  Flat Head Screw Driver


• 
  Blue Loctite (Comes with trigger in package)


• 
  Flat Head screwdriver


• 
  Some sort of degreaser (Brake cleaner, gun scrubber etc)


• 
  Qtips


• 
  Some sort of grease, i use weapon shield grease

Step one:



First disconnect the upper from the lower and make sure there is no magazine in the rifle and the weapon is unloaded.







Step Two:

• 
  Using the flat head screwdriver remove the pistol grip (Take if off
  slowly and dont lose the detnet and spring, i put them in the box that
  the trigger came with)


• 
  
  Remove safety selector


• 
  
  Now take your punch and hammer and punch out your trigger pin and your hammer pin


• 
  
  Set the old hammer and trigger aiside as you wont need any of these parts

Step Three:



Once you get your pistol grip off and the old trigger out. Lay everytthing out with your new trigger





http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/LancerV/DSCN0639.jpg
Step Four:


Take off all the screws on the new trigger, and degrease them. The
silver pin that holds in the disconnector and spring Should be 3 of them





http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/LancerV/DSCN0641.jpg




Step Five:


After you have degreased all your screws use the blue loctite (it wont
cure before you get done as it takes around 30mins to install), and
grease and grease the parts shown. And reinstall all screws, make the
two outside screws flush with the bottom of the trigger





http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/LancerV/DSCN0644.jpg



Grease the hole on the bottom as it will hold the trigger spring in place





http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/LancerV/DSCN0645.jpg



Install all the screws and dissconector





http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/LancerV/DSCN0647.jpg



Step Six:






Take your sear engagement screw and put it where the old pistol grip
screw went. Let it protrude out as much as you can. It may get really
hard to screw in once past a certain point as the threading stops. But
you can just force it in as, it keeps it in tighter, and nothing else
is ever going to go that far in





http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/LancerV/DSCN0648.jpg





http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/LancerV/DSCN0649.jpg
Step Seven:



Install the trigger in your lower receiver, and the hammer, see if the hammer cocks back and grease it according





http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/LancerV/DSCN0650.jpg
Step Eight:


If you put the sear engagement screw in far enough the hammer shouldnt
cock back, keep backing out the sear engagement screw until the hammer
will cock back. After this rotate the sear engagement screw out one
more full turn





http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/LancerV/DSCN0654.jpg
Step Nine:


Remove the hammer using the punch and hammer, and adjust the first
screw nearest towards the magwell. This will adjust the overtravel.
This part takes the longest, keep backing it out tell it wont cock back
anymore. Once this happens take out about half a turn and reinstall
hammer should cock back just fine. You want the bottom of the hammer to
just be traveling past the trigger





http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/LancerV/DSCN0655.jpg
Step Ten:


Next is the disconnector screw this is the screw in the middle, tighten
it all the way down at first. And try to move the hammer down, the
hammer should just barley catch it where it will have enough force to
come back up from the disconnector, if it looks like its going to catch
it alot keep backing out the screw tell it looks like it barley
catches. Once it looks ok push the hammer down and it should catch it
and come back up. If it gets stuck you will have to take out the
hammer, and back it out some more





http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/LancerV/DSCN0658.jpg
Step 11:


The last screw is for the safety it lets you adjust how much travel you
have in your trigger with the safety on, Jard says there should be
none, but ive never got to that point wheres there none with still
being able to put the safety selector in. You keep backing it out until
you cant put the safety selector in and than you just go down 1/8 of
turn and put in the safety lever. Dry Fire to make sure it works.
Step Twelve Last Step:


Put the dentent and than the spring in, and the pistol grip. And grab
the modified pistol grip screw and blue loctite it. It should look like
this





http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/LancerV/DSCN0661.jpg



Also grease up everything





http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/LancerV/DSCN0660-1.jpg
And a 10pull trigger average





http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/LancerV/DSCN0662.jpg



And video



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XHcctzDfZJk
 

Great post! –– Thanks.  Sure wish I had this to refer to the first time I put one of these in.

I have got one in my AR15, it is the best trigger I have ever used.

Nice post.  An additional bit of information.......

Both my friend and I have had problems with the adjustable Jard doubling during very light trigger pull and no on-purpose follow-through.  Be prepared to have to increase the disco engagement to delay reset to the sear on trigger release.  I also made some Delrin bushings to go on either side of the trigger on the trigger pin to keep it centered in the lower and reduce lateral play of the trigger.  This isn't necessary,  just an added touch.

You sure it was doubling and not the recoil of the rifle causing it? This is esp true if your use to the takeup method when firing





 

With light triggers ive learned its best to hold down the trigger, until you want your next shoot.

I just did my third Jard adjustable trigger today. This tutorial is the best I've seen. It covers everything, and does it in good detail!

Agree good stuff...but he needs to stop chewing his finger nails!

I'm thinking on getting the #3 Jard...   This Tutorial makes it look very appealing.   Question on the disco setting, is this a wear point?  Having it barely catch will that wear down the disconnector tip over time?  Why is too much disconnector contact unwanted?

Too much and it wont disconnect, too litle and it wont connect and could double on you. And it could cause some wear but i just keep it greased up and dont worry about it to much