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LancerV
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Posted: 9/4/2009 11:18:54 PM
Jard Adjustable Trigger Install:
First order a Jard Adjustable AR-15 trigger ($120 from midwayusa with CR Discount, 150 without a CR)
First all the tools and equipment you will need to install your trigger. Total time should take around 30-45mins

    • Punch
    • Hammer
    • Hex Key Set
    • Flat Head Screw Driver
    • Blue Loctite (Comes with trigger in package)
    • Flat Head screwdriver
    • Some sort of degreaser (Brake cleaner, gun scrubber etc)
    • Qtips
    • Some sort of grease, i use weapon shield grease


Step one:
First disconnect the upper from the lower and make sure there is no magazine in the rifle and the weapon is unloaded.

Step Two:


    • Using the flat head screwdriver remove the pistol grip (Take if off slowly and dont lose the detnet and spring, i put them in the box that the trigger came with)
    • Remove safety selector
    • Now take your punch and hammer and punch out your trigger pin and your hammer pin
    • Set the old hammer and trigger aiside as you wont need any of these parts


Step Three:
Once you get your pistol grip off and the old trigger out. Lay everytthing out with your new trigger
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/LancerV/DSCN0639.jpg

Step Four:
Take off all the screws on the new trigger, and degrease them. The silver pin that holds in the disconnector and spring Should be 3 of them
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/LancerV/DSCN0641.jpg


Step Five:

After you have degreased all your screws use the blue loctite (it wont cure before you get done as it takes around 30mins to install), and grease and grease the parts shown. And reinstall all screws, make the two outside screws flush with the bottom of the trigger
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/LancerV/DSCN0644.jpg
Grease the hole on the bottom as it will hold the trigger spring in place
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/LancerV/DSCN0645.jpg
Install all the screws and dissconector
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/LancerV/DSCN0647.jpg
Step Six:

Take your sear engagement screw and put it where the old pistol grip screw went. Let it protrude out as much as you can. It may get really hard to screw in once past a certain point as the threading stops. But you can just force it in as, it keeps it in tighter, and nothing else is ever going to go that far in
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/LancerV/DSCN0648.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/LancerV/DSCN0649.jpg

Step Seven:
Install the trigger in your lower receiver, and the hammer, see if the hammer cocks back and grease it according
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/LancerV/DSCN0650.jpg

Step Eight:
If you put the sear engagement screw in far enough the hammer shouldnt cock back, keep backing out the sear engagement screw until the hammer will cock back. After this rotate the sear engagement screw out one more full turn
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/LancerV/DSCN0654.jpg

Step Nine:
Remove the hammer using the punch and hammer, and adjust the first screw nearest towards the magwell. This will adjust the overtravel. This part takes the longest, keep backing it out tell it wont cock back anymore. Once this happens take out about half a turn and reinstall hammer should cock back just fine. You want the bottom of the hammer to just be traveling past the trigger
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/LancerV/DSCN0655.jpg

Step Ten:
Next is the disconnector screw this is the screw in the middle, tighten it all the way down at first. And try to move the hammer down, the hammer should just barley catch it where it will have enough force to come back up from the disconnector, if it looks like its going to catch it alot keep backing out the screw tell it looks like it barley catches. Once it looks ok push the hammer down and it should catch it and come back up. If it gets stuck you will have to take out the hammer, and back it out some more
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/LancerV/DSCN0658.jpg

Step 11:
The last screw is for the safety it lets you adjust how much travel you have in your trigger with the safety on, Jard says there should be none, but ive never got to that point wheres there none with still being able to put the safety selector in. You keep backing it out until you cant put the safety selector in and than you just go down 1/8 of turn and put in the safety lever. Dry Fire to make sure it works.

Step Twelve Last Step:
Put the dentent and than the spring in, and the pistol grip. And grab the modified pistol grip screw and blue loctite it. It should look like this
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/LancerV/DSCN0661.jpg
Also grease up everything
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/LancerV/DSCN0660-1.jpg






And a 10pull trigger average
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/LancerV/DSCN0662.jpg
And video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XHcctzDfZJk
bowslngr
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Posted: 9/5/2009 7:13:56 AM
Great post! –– Thanks. Sure wish I had this to refer to the first time I put one of these in.
Paintballer
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Posted: 9/5/2009 10:59:30 AM
I have got one in my AR15, it is the best trigger I have ever used.
Russ4777
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Posted: 9/6/2009 2:03:27 PM
Nice post. An additional bit of information.......

Both my friend and I have had problems with the adjustable Jard doubling during very light trigger pull and no on-purpose follow-through. Be prepared to have to increase the disco engagement to delay reset to the sear on trigger release. I also made some Delrin bushings to go on either side of the trigger on the trigger pin to keep it centered in the lower and reduce lateral play of the trigger. This isn't necessary, just an added touch.
1st Cav Div, B 5/7
Vietnam/Cambodia
1970
LancerV
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Posted: 9/6/2009 2:09:43 PM

Originally Posted By Russ4777:
Nice post. An additional bit of information.......

Both my friend and I have had problems with the adjustable Jard doubling during very light trigger pull and no on-purpose follow-through. Be prepared to have to increase the disco engagement to delay reset to the sear on trigger release. I also made some Delrin bushings to go on either side of the trigger on the trigger pin to keep it centered in the lower and reduce lateral play of the trigger. This isn't necessary, just an added touch.
You sure it was doubling and not the recoil of the rifle causing it? This is esp true if your use to the takeup method when firing

LancerV
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Posted: 9/6/2009 2:11:10 PM
With light triggers ive learned its best to hold down the trigger, until you want your next shoot.
BlahBlah
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Posted: 9/6/2009 11:05:45 PM
I just did my third Jard adjustable trigger today. This tutorial is the best I've seen. It covers everything, and does it in good detail!
texjames
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Posted: 9/7/2009 8:26:05 AM
Originally Posted By BlahBlah:
I just did my third Jard adjustable trigger today. This tutorial is the best I've seen. It covers everything, and does it in good detail!


Agree good stuff...but he needs to stop chewing his finger nails!
JeffCsr
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Posted: 9/11/2009 9:22:52 AM
I'm thinking on getting the #3 Jard... This Tutorial makes it look very appealing. Question on the disco setting, is this a wear point? Having it barely catch will that wear down the disconnector tip over time? Why is too much disconnector contact unwanted?
LancerV
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Posted: 9/11/2009 7:48:07 PM
Too much and it wont disconnect, too litle and it wont connect and could double on you. And it could cause some wear but i just keep it greased up and dont worry about it to much
Originally Posted By JeffCsr:
I'm thinking on getting the #3 Jard... This Tutorial makes it look very appealing. Question on the disco setting, is this a wear point? Having it barely catch will that wear down the disconnector tip over time? Why is too much disconnector contact unwanted?