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Posted: 6/13/2012 4:49:57 PM
I understand how important it is to have the threads clean, but should the barrel coating be removed from the threads?
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PursuitSS
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Posted: 6/14/2012 10:35:57 PM
i used a stainless wire brush attachment on a Dremel to knock some of the parkerizing off.
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Posted: 8/21/2012 7:08:55 PM
Will an acetylene torch work for soldering?
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PursuitSS
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Posted: 8/22/2012 9:43:38 AM
Originally Posted By drewQ22:
Will an acetylene torch work for soldering? I used an Oxy-Acetylene torch. My thought is to heat it FAST rather than using something like Mapp and allowing the the heat to migrate. |
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Posted: 8/22/2012 2:35:53 PM
Originally Posted By PursuitSS:
Originally Posted By drewQ22:
Will an acetylene torch work for soldering? I used an Oxy-Acetylene torch. My thought is to heat it FAST rather than using something like Mapp and allowing the the heat to migrate. Yeah. I'm pretty sure the torch I have access to is an oxy- acetylene torch. Just making sure it will get the job done. |
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Posted: 10/17/2012 1:00:58 AM
Quick question for the people that did this. I read one post throughout this whole thread where they just timed the muzzle by hand before soldering. Can it be either hand tightened or torqued a little before heating the solder?
I'm thinking of going this method, since I have acetylene torches, and just want to make sure I do it correctly. Right now my battle comp is like 5 degree from 6 o'clock by just being hand tightened w/ the crush washer it came with. |
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Posted: 10/17/2012 1:06:50 AM
Anyone use the Bernzomatic OX2550? (Fuel and Oxygen tanks), I believe one person did previous.
Tried it on a nut and bolt and it was not working well. Trouble getting my flame right. The oxygen knob shows little change when I turn it until the last little bit then it seems to have an effect. I have used my dad's acetylene torch which seems to be way easier to adjust the flame with. Checked Youtube and found one video but it seems to have an editing cut when the guy sets his flame. No youtube videos on silver soldering a muzzle device that I found. It was suggested that the heat was dissipating to well since I was not using Heat Stop on the bolt. |
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Posted: 10/17/2012 1:23:25 PM
I think I have it figured out now. The controls are really touchy. I had more of a cutting flame but held off just a bit so that would not occur and it heated the test nut and bolt up really quick to melt the silver. Using the silver wire is a pain in the butt, probably why the paste is recommended. How much of the paste do I need on the threads? I got some a HTF local but it doesn't seem like much and seems kind of dry.
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PursuitSS
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Posted: 10/18/2012 9:24:27 PM
[Last Edit: 10/18/2012 9:27:11 PM by PursuitSS]
Double tap
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PursuitSS
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Posted: 10/18/2012 9:26:28 PM
Originally Posted By 007Kevin:
I think I have it figured out now. The controls are really touchy. I had more of a cutting flame but held off just a bit so that would not occur and it heated the test nut and bolt up really quick to melt the silver. Using the silver wire is a pain in the butt, probably why the paste is recommended. How much of the paste do I need on the threads? I got some a HTF local but it doesn't seem like much and seems kind of dry. I use enough paste that when you tighten the flash suppressor it "squirts" out at the shoulder. I then clean ALL of that off and clean any that is showing inside the flash suppressor. I cannot over emphasize to PACK the bore with heat stop to prevent scale from forming. |
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Posted: 10/19/2012 12:15:11 AM
[Last Edit: 10/19/2012 12:15:59 AM by 007Kevin]
Originally Posted By PursuitSS:
Originally Posted By 007Kevin:
I think I have it figured out now. The controls are really touchy. I had more of a cutting flame but held off just a bit so that would not occur and it heated the test nut and bolt up really quick to melt the silver. Using the silver wire is a pain in the butt, probably why the paste is recommended. How much of the paste do I need on the threads? I got some a HTF local but it doesn't seem like much and seems kind of dry. I use enough paste that when you tighten the flash suppressor it "squirts" out at the shoulder. I then clean ALL of that off and clean any that is showing inside the flash suppressor. I cannot over emphasize to PACK the bore with heat stop to prevent scale from forming. I was going to ask about putting stuff in the barrel, thank you for confirming my plan. I worry about putting that much on though and getting stuff in the barrel despite heat stop in the barrel. |
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PursuitSS
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Posted: 10/19/2012 11:43:12 PM
Originally Posted By 007Kevin:
Originally Posted By PursuitSS:
Originally Posted By 007Kevin:
I think I have it figured out now. The controls are really touchy. I had more of a cutting flame but held off just a bit so that would not occur and it heated the test nut and bolt up really quick to melt the silver. Using the silver wire is a pain in the butt, probably why the paste is recommended. How much of the paste do I need on the threads? I got some a HTF local but it doesn't seem like much and seems kind of dry. I use enough paste that when you tighten the flash suppressor it "squirts" out at the shoulder. I then clean ALL of that off and clean any that is showing inside the flash suppressor. I cannot over emphasize to PACK the bore with heat stop to prevent scale from forming. I was going to ask about putting stuff in the barrel, thank you for confirming my plan. I worry about putting that much on though and getting stuff in the barrel despite heat stop in the barrel. To do this correctly "the devil is in the details". Read EVERY POST in this thread! |
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Posted: 10/20/2012 1:24:14 AM
Originally Posted By PursuitSS:
Originally Posted By 007Kevin:
Originally Posted By PursuitSS:
Originally Posted By 007Kevin:
I think I have it figured out now. The controls are really touchy. I had more of a cutting flame but held off just a bit so that would not occur and it heated the test nut and bolt up really quick to melt the silver. Using the silver wire is a pain in the butt, probably why the paste is recommended. How much of the paste do I need on the threads? I got some a HTF local but it doesn't seem like much and seems kind of dry. I use enough paste that when you tighten the flash suppressor it "squirts" out at the shoulder. I then clean ALL of that off and clean any that is showing inside the flash suppressor. I cannot over emphasize to PACK the bore with heat stop to prevent scale from forming. I was going to ask about putting stuff in the barrel, thank you for confirming my plan. I worry about putting that much on though and getting stuff in the barrel despite heat stop in the barrel. To do this correctly "the devil is in the details". Read EVERY POST in this thread! 10-4 |
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Posted: 10/21/2012 10:39:38 PM
I tried this out over the weekend. I kept heating after the solder started to move, but I must've kept going too long...some of the solder turned green and the brake was glowing orange. Oops.
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PursuitSS
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Posted: 10/22/2012 8:40:28 PM
There heat indicating "crayons" available that are pretty accurate. What would be best is a infrared heat sensor gun.
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Posted: 10/23/2012 1:09:53 PM
@PursuitSS
When you're heating the thread area, do you rotate the barrel to evenly apply heat everyone? Or is it safe to assume that it all heatsoaks and the solder will flow good on all sides of the threads? |
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PursuitSS
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Posted: 10/23/2012 8:39:29 PM
Originally Posted By Luxferro:
@PursuitSS When you're heating the thread area, do you rotate the barrel to evenly apply heat everyone? Or is it safe to assume that it all heatsoaks and the solder will flow good on all sides of the threads? Actually I place the barrel in a vise and move the torch around the flash suppressor heating it evenly. |
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Posted: 12/13/2012 9:59:22 AM
I've used my propane/oxygen cutting torch to silver solder my brakes on. Never any issues and I use some old silver solder that is in ribbon form.
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Posted: 1/3/2013 6:27:02 AM
Luckily my uncle is a HVAC tech and has acetylene torches and big solder sticks for this kind of thing lol
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Posted: 1/14/2013 6:52:30 PM
ok i know everyone says to use oxy acetylene but would a propane torch get the job done?
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RickFinsta
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Posted: 1/26/2013 7:32:49 PM
I saw this question asked earlier in the thread, but it was never answered:
Does anyone else have a reference to the ATF specifically requiring 56% Silver Solder (someone made this claim in this thread)? I can find no reference to anythin other than >1000*F in the federal register or the CFRs and otherguiding documents. I have a 45% that melts at well over 1200*F, and want to make sure it's okay before I use it. |
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Posted: 1/27/2013 8:52:56 AM
Has anyone ever seen a video of this process?
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PursuitSS
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Posted: 1/27/2013 4:38:42 PM
Originally Posted By RickFinsta:
I saw this question asked earlier in the thread, but it was never answered: Does anyone else have a reference to the ATF specifically requiring 56% Silver Solder (someone made this claim in this thread)? I can find no reference to anythin other than >1000*F in the federal register or the CFRs and otherguiding documents. I have a 45% that melts at well over 1200*F, and want to make sure it's okay before I use it. i don't think that is a requirement of the rule. 1100 degrees is a requirement, no less! |
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RickFinsta
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Posted: 1/29/2013 9:37:15 AM
That's my reading as well, I just wanted to be sure no one had seen a guiding document to the contrary. I'll use the 1200*F+ 45% Safety-Silv or a solder-in-paste.
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RickFinsta
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Posted: 2/6/2013 8:38:03 PM
[Last Edit: 2/6/2013 8:38:32 PM by RickFinsta]
You know what this thread needs? MOAR P1CZ!!
Okay, so I grabbed my buddy's old Bushy barrel, a few peel washers, and a cruddy old A2 FH, and did my practice run. 
Babytown frolics. I used 56% paste rather than using the 45% Safety-Silv wire I've got, and turned the barrel as I heated it to get it nice and even. I tried to break it loose after cooling, and my benchtop (to which my vise is mounted) was moving, but not the flash hider. I'm going to be doing this with a YHM QD mount in the next few days, which will require disassembly of the spring pack and retention collar prior to brazing. I'll post up pics when I'm done, unless I screw up my brand new DD CHF barrel, in which case I'll be crying and drinking heavily (as opposed to a normal weekend that features less crying). ETA - how do you guys clean the heat sink material out of the barrel? Mine rocked up something awful. |
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