 |
Posted: 1/20/2011 10:24:41 AM
generally the orifice size won't be correct and it won't give you a hot enough flame
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/20/2011 5:07:06 PM
Does any one have any sliver soider paste left the won't to sell
|
|
|
|
Monkey_Wrench
Florida Hurricane Dodger
Team Member
Joined: Dec 2004  FL, USA
 Posts: 17925 Feedback: 100% (46) Link To This Post |
Posted: 1/20/2011 5:19:01 PM
Interesting. TAG.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/24/2011 4:31:14 PM
OK people, I have read through all 7 pages and very interesting and a LOT of advice.. Would someone with a good camera PLEASE do a Video and then it can me added to this thread or have its own stickie..
Looked on youtube but not able to find one.. A GOOD video would sure answer a LOT of the questions and SHOW how its done and cleaned up.. |
|
|
|
GySgt_D
Wore MARPAT to breakfast
Team Member
Joined: Mar 2001 FL, USA
 
Posts: 939 Feedback: 100% (6) Link To This Post |
Posted: 1/24/2011 4:50:47 PM
I considered making a video, but it would most likely look like a monkey making sweet love to a football...
 |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/24/2011 7:40:25 PM
Originally Posted By GySgt_D:
I considered making a video, but it would most likely look like a monkey making sweet love to a football... I like porn - give it a try... lol Really, someone do this... |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/26/2011 11:17:32 AM
I just did one the other day...I wish I read how you guys wanted a video. It would have been pretty boring though since 5 or so minutes would be nothing but me holding a MAPP gas torch to the comp I attached in order to get it hot enough to melt the silver solder paste. It seems everytime I do one I have to remember that although the comp may be cherry red, the barrel underneath may not be. My first test to see if it had melted revealed a free spinning comp. After another 2 minutues the comp was "fixed" on solid when I went back to reheat. Very easy process...don't over think this guys! Clean your threads(both barrel and comp) very well with brake cleaner, acetone, or whatever you may use before LIGHTLY applying the solder. You don't need so much that it squirts out the back of the comp when you thread it on since it will be wasted and the stuff is EXPENSIVE! After threading it on, make sure to smear your heat paste thick and heavy all over the barrel, at least the first 3-4 inches from the comp. I put it so thick it is literally falling off. After I get done I only have minimul discoloration of about 1/2" from the comp and most of it kind of "disapears" after a couple hundred rounds in one session due to the barrel reheating.
|
|
|
|
PursuitSS
...believe in me, I'm with the High Command.
Team Member
Joined: May 2006 MO, USA
Posts: 2825 Feedback: 100% (14) Link To This Post |
Posted: 1/26/2011 1:19:32 PM
In addition, I apply heat stop paste INSIDE the bore.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/27/2011 8:42:52 PM
I wonder if a large pipe wrench would be considered a common hand tool?
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/4/2011 3:32:27 AM
Originally Posted By Dawg180:
Originally Posted By Easy_E:
There is another way to pin it on without a welder. A local gunsmith showed me this . Drill a hole through the flash hider and in to the barrel slightly. Pull the hider back off and tap the hole with threads. Reinstall the flash hider with the threaded hole lined up with the hole in the barrel. Take a extra long set screw with loctite and thread it into the hole. It should bottom out in the hole and leave the head above the surface. Now grind off the head and shape to the hider. If your careful you only need to touch up the round shiny spot. That is not legal. This is exactly how ADCO perm attaches a muzzle device. Except they don't drill into the barrel. They just tighten the screw down onto the barrel threads and grind it off. |
|
|
|
FloridaCreekIndian
Vae Victis
Team Member
Joined: Apr 2004 FL, USA
Posts: 8210 Feedback: 100% (431) Link To This Post |
Posted: 2/9/2011 3:25:08 AM
Originally Posted By 79rallysport:
Originally Posted By Dawg180:
Originally Posted By Easy_E:
There is another way to pin it on without a welder. A local gunsmith showed me this . Drill a hole through the flash hider and in to the barrel slightly. Pull the hider back off and tap the hole with threads. Reinstall the flash hider with the threaded hole lined up with the hole in the barrel. Take a extra long set screw with loctite and thread it into the hole. It should bottom out in the hole and leave the head above the surface. Now grind off the head and shape to the hider. If your careful you only need to touch up the round shiny spot. That is not legal. This is exactly how ADCO perm attaches a muzzle device. Except they don't drill into the barrel. They just tighten the screw down onto the barrel threads and grind it off. Every pin job I have seen from Adco looks like it has been welded over and then refinished and not just screwed into a drilled and tapped hole. |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/16/2011 7:20:14 AM
Originally Posted By FloridaCreekIndian:
Originally Posted By 79rallysport:
Originally Posted By Dawg180:
Originally Posted By Easy_E:
There is another way to pin it on without a welder. A local gunsmith showed me this . Drill a hole through the flash hider and in to the barrel slightly. Pull the hider back off and tap the hole with threads. Reinstall the flash hider with the threaded hole lined up with the hole in the barrel. Take a extra long set screw with loctite and thread it into the hole. It should bottom out in the hole and leave the head above the surface. Now grind off the head and shape to the hider. If your careful you only need to touch up the round shiny spot. That is not legal. This is exactly how ADCO perm attaches a muzzle device. Except they don't drill into the barrel. They just tighten the screw down onto the barrel threads and grind it off. Every pin job I have seen from Adco looks like it has been welded over and then refinished and not just screwed into a drilled and tapped hole. Can you post a pic? |
|
|
|
GutWrench
LMT User
Team Member
Joined: Oct 2005 LA, USA
Posts: 1276 Feedback: 100% (3) Link To This Post |
Posted: 5/23/2011 8:11:20 PM
Is this the torch I want to use for this? Linkage to Lowes.com
|
|
|
Easy_E
With A Pocket Full Of Shells
Team Member
Joined: Aug 2005 MI, USA
Posts: 3241 Feedback: 100% (81) Link To This Post |
Posted: 5/23/2011 9:56:47 PM
Originally Posted By 79rallysport:
Originally Posted By FloridaCreekIndian:
Originally Posted By 79rallysport:
Originally Posted By Dawg180:
Originally Posted By Easy_E:
There is another way to pin it on without a welder. A local gunsmith showed me this . Drill a hole through the flash hider and in to the barrel slightly. Pull the hider back off and tap the hole with threads. Reinstall the flash hider with the threaded hole lined up with the hole in the barrel. Take a extra long set screw with loctite and thread it into the hole. It should bottom out in the hole and leave the head above the surface. Now grind off the head and shape to the hider. If your careful you only need to touch up the round shiny spot. That is not legal. This is exactly how ADCO perm attaches a muzzle device. Except they don't drill into the barrel. They just tighten the screw down onto the barrel threads and grind it off. Every pin job I have seen from Adco looks like it has been welded over and then refinished and not just screwed into a drilled and tapped hole. Can you post a pic? There is a pic back in this post showing this method . Please post a picture of this I've been taking heat for this for almost three years. ( no pund intended  ) |
|
|
WayneG
I just threw your stinkin' palm tree overboard!
Team Member
Joined: Sep 2004 VA, USA
Posts: 2458 Feedback: 100% (26) Link To This Post |
Posted: 5/24/2011 3:56:57 PM
That will work. I tend to use the Oxy/Mapp rig, but that's only because I'm used to it, many find it a bit of overkill and a PIA to use. I prefer the kits that have the 4 foot hose, you'll find it's easier to work around the FH with that rig then the entire bottle. |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/5/2011 8:54:09 PM
Anyone know of any deals on 14.5" M4 profile barrels so I can give this a shot?
|
|
|
|
Sessrumnir
omnia mutantur, nihil interit
Team Member
Joined: Sep 2009 UT, USA
Posts: 422 Feedback: 100% (1) Link To This Post |
Posted: 6/6/2011 12:28:39 PM
Originally Posted By hoggunner: OK people, I have read through all 7 pages and very interesting and a LOT of advice.. Would someone with a good camera PLEASE do a Video and then it can me added to this thread or have its own stickie.. Looked on youtube but not able to find one.. A GOOD video would sure answer a LOT of the questions and SHOW how its done and cleaned up.. You send me an upper and muzzle device and I'll do it. I have access to a 1080p camcorder. :) Can I keep the upper too? |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/13/2011 6:02:47 PM
Two things:
Has anyone tried as the heat sink immersing the barrel in a bucket of water as the heat sink with only the flashhider and some change sticking out? Has some have done suppressor mounts - what about extended firing with a suppressor and remelting the solder? Suppressors get hot but I have never seen any documented internal temp measurements. 1100 is pretty damn hot............ |
|
|
|
SheepDog1979
Come N' Get Em...
Team Member
Joined: Feb 2010 MN, USA
Posts: 221 Feedback: 0% (0) Link To This Post |
Posted: 6/23/2011 8:47:34 PM
Can you use mapp gas to heat up the muzzle break enough to get a good solder? Thanks SD79
|
|
|
WayneG
I just threw your stinkin' palm tree overboard!
Team Member
Joined: Sep 2004 VA, USA
Posts: 2481 Feedback: 100% (26) Link To This Post |
Posted: 6/24/2011 6:16:22 PM
Originally Posted By PraesulPresul1: Water is good if you want to change the temper of the metal, otherwise there are much better heat sinks to use. Seriously, the Heat Stop paste or equivalent products were made just for the purpose of protecting metal against heat. That's what you should use.Two things: Has anyone tried as the heat sink immersing the barrel in a bucket of water as the heat sink with only the flashhider and some change sticking out? Has some have done suppressor mounts - what about extended firing with a suppressor and remelting the solder? Suppressors get hot but I have never seen any documented internal temp measurements. 1100 is pretty damn hot............ Can't speak about suppressor mounts, but I don't think you're going to get temps that high or you would probably see some deformation in the suppressor itself. I'm not an expert on this, though, so I'll let more experienced folks comment. |
|
|
WayneG
I just threw your stinkin' palm tree overboard!
Team Member
Joined: Sep 2004 VA, USA
Posts: 2482 Feedback: 100% (26) Link To This Post |
Posted: 6/24/2011 6:16:57 PM
[Last Edit: 6/24/2011 6:21:46 PM by WayneG]
Originally Posted By SheepDog1979: Yes. MAPP torch runs at 5300 °F.Can you use mapp gas to heat up the muzzle break enough to get a good solder? Thanks SD79 |
|
|
SheepDog1979
Come N' Get Em...
Team Member
Joined: Feb 2010 MN, USA
Posts: 225 Feedback: 0% (0) Link To This Post |
Posted: 6/24/2011 7:11:00 PM
Originally Posted By WayneG:
Originally Posted By SheepDog1979:
Yes. MAPP torch runs at 5300 °F.
Can you use mapp gas to heat up the muzzle break enough to get a good solder? Thanks SD79 I have an issue, my crush washer that came with my BC 1.5 doesn't allow it to be timed correctly on the barrel. It touches the crush washer about a quarter turn past my desired timed position. That means that I have to either back it off an had like .010 gap between the washer and barrel/BC, or try and crank it 3/4 turn around the barrel to get it to be properly timed. I got it snug and tried to turn it some more but, decided to put a torque wrench on it while I was doing it and set the wrench to 30 ft/lbs and it barely moved before hitting my torque setting. Any suggestions as to what I could do? I am going to be silver soldering it this weekend.. Thanks SD79 |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/24/2011 7:49:28 PM
Originally Posted By SheepDog1979:
Originally Posted By WayneG:
Originally Posted By SheepDog1979:
Yes. MAPP torch runs at 5300 °F.
Can you use mapp gas to heat up the muzzle break enough to get a good solder? Thanks SD79 I have an issue, my crush washer that came with my BC 1.5 doesn't allow it to be timed correctly on the barrel. It touches the crush washer about a quarter turn past my desired timed position. That means that I have to either back it off an had like .010 gap between the washer and barrel/BC, or try and crank it 3/4 turn around the barrel to get it to be properly timed. I got it snug and tried to turn it some more but, decided to put a torque wrench on it while I was doing it and set the wrench to 30 ft/lbs and it barely moved before hitting my torque setting. Any suggestions as to what I could do? I am going to be silver soldering it this weekend.. Thanks SD79 You probably should use a peel washer instead. I recently isntalled a BC 1.5 on my MRP barrel and I used a peel washer insted of the supplied crush washer. |
|
|
|
SheepDog1979
Come N' Get Em...
Team Member
Joined: Feb 2010 MN, USA
Posts: 226 Feedback: 0% (0) Link To This Post |
Posted: 6/24/2011 8:21:12 PM
Originally Posted By INTrooper4255:
Originally Posted By SheepDog1979:
Originally Posted By WayneG:
Originally Posted By SheepDog1979:
Yes. MAPP torch runs at 5300 °F.
Can you use mapp gas to heat up the muzzle break enough to get a good solder? Thanks SD79 I have an issue, my crush washer that came with my BC 1.5 doesn't allow it to be timed correctly on the barrel. It touches the crush washer about a quarter turn past my desired timed position. That means that I have to either back it off an had like .010 gap between the washer and barrel/BC, or try and crank it 3/4 turn around the barrel to get it to be properly timed. I got it snug and tried to turn it some more but, decided to put a torque wrench on it while I was doing it and set the wrench to 30 ft/lbs and it barely moved before hitting my torque setting. Any suggestions as to what I could do? I am going to be silver soldering it this weekend.. Thanks SD79 You probably should use a peel washer instead. I recently isntalled a BC 1.5 on my MRP barrel and I used a peel washer insted of the supplied crush washer. Thanks for the response.. Is it possible to use both the peel washer and the crush washer? I basically need to add .010 - .015 to allow it to be timed correctly. Are the peel washers the same thickness as the crush washer? I know I can peel them down but, it either needs to be larger or I need to use two. SD79 |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/24/2011 9:07:52 PM
Originally Posted By SheepDog1979:
Originally Posted By INTrooper4255:
Originally Posted By SheepDog1979:
Originally Posted By WayneG:
Originally Posted By SheepDog1979:
Yes. MAPP torch runs at 5300 °F.
Can you use mapp gas to heat up the muzzle break enough to get a good solder? Thanks SD79 I have an issue, my crush washer that came with my BC 1.5 doesn't allow it to be timed correctly on the barrel. It touches the crush washer about a quarter turn past my desired timed position. That means that I have to either back it off an had like .010 gap between the washer and barrel/BC, or try and crank it 3/4 turn around the barrel to get it to be properly timed. I got it snug and tried to turn it some more but, decided to put a torque wrench on it while I was doing it and set the wrench to 30 ft/lbs and it barely moved before hitting my torque setting. Any suggestions as to what I could do? I am going to be silver soldering it this weekend.. Thanks SD79 You probably should use a peel washer instead. I recently isntalled a BC 1.5 on my MRP barrel and I used a peel washer insted of the supplied crush washer. Thanks for the response.. Is it possible to use both the peel washer and the crush washer? I basically need to add .010 - .015 to allow it to be timed correctly. Are the peel washers the same thickness as the crush washer? I know I can peel them down but, it either needs to be larger or I need to use two. SD79 You won't need them both, use just the peel. It just varies on how much you'll need to peel, sometimes it doesn't take much. I've done about 3 of them with peel washers and I think that it gives a much cleaner look. |
|
|
