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Scorch05
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Posted: 1/12/2006 12:59:00 AM
One little tip on installing a match trigger, specifically a RRA, when you go to install the hammer push a punch through the hole in the reciever and then latch the hammer over the disconnector before installing the pin. I personally had trouble with the hammer binding and not letting me push the pin through without latching it on the disconnector.
GhostRecon1
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Posted: 1/14/2006 1:22:24 PM
[Last Edit: 1/14/2006 1:23:30 PM by GhostRecon1]
I would like to say Thank You for the incredible instructions. I have been wanting to change out my own barrels and never had the guts to do it until I read your thread.
My only question is:
If my front sight is off to one side,
is it bad to have to losen up the barrel a couple of times to correct it?
Does it do any damage to anything?
is there any counciling for Black Gun adiction...????
FALARAK
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Posted: 1/15/2006 7:48:56 PM

Originally Posted By GhostRecon1:
If my front sight is off to one side, is it bad to have to losen up the barrel a couple of times to correct it?
Does it do any damage to anything?



No problem. It happens, especially canting to the left just a bit when you torque the barrel nut down.

This is listed in the Q&A on the first page:


Q5. "I installed my barrel, but my FSB seems canted in one direction, and in order to zero, I had to move my rear sight all the way to one side, and sometimes it still wont zero because I ran out of windage"

A5. This is a direct quote from Homo_Erectus on the issue:



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This is a very common problem with a very easy fix. It's caused by small differences between the upper receiver notch and barrel pin. And here's how you fix it:

Unscrew the barrel nut. With the barrel in the upper receiver, check the sight alignment by eyeballing it. If it's canted to one side, try and twist the barrel in the upper. If it won't move far enough, then take a jeweler's file and very carefully file the side of the upper receiver notch to open it up until the front sight can sit up straight.

Before reinstalling the barrel nut, you have to tighten up the receiver notch so the barrel won't move around while you're cranking down on the nut. With the barrel in the receiver, take a small hammer and punch and very lightly peen down the loose side of the notch. Careful, tap lightly because it doesn't take much. What you'll see is a slight flattening of the threasd right next to the barrel pin. That's it!

This really easy, and doesn't entail doing anything to the FSB.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------





Ever notice how people on the Left talk about leaving the Country and people on the Right talk about taking the Country back?
Black-Tiger
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Posted: 1/26/2006 10:00:07 PM
Beautiful instructions. Very methodical in scope. A definite read for anyone.
texmex75
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Posted: 2/2/2006 10:52:59 PM
I just completed my first build. Your instructions were easy to follow and right on point. I have never put anything together that went this smooth.

Thanks,
Pete
MarkRSims
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Posted: 2/15/2006 11:05:54 PM
[Last Edit: 2/15/2006 11:06:50 PM by MarkRSims]
Just a quick question, as I'm about to get into this soon. Under "Install your own free-float rail system, step by step:" you remove the front sight base, but it does not show how the front handguard cap is attached or how to remove it. Is it attached to the FSB, or is it just captured in place between the FSB and the barrel?

By the way, What a great post!!! Thanx!!!
FALARAK
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Posted: 2/15/2006 11:27:52 PM

Originally Posted By MarkRSims:
it does not show how the front handguard cap is attached or how to remove it. Is it attached to the FSB, or is it just captured in place between the FSB and the barrel?



The front handguard cap is captured between the FSB and a shoulder in the barrel. Remove the FSB, the handguard cap just slips off behind it.
Ever notice how people on the Left talk about leaving the Country and people on the Right talk about taking the Country back?
OlBoy
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Posted: 2/23/2006 12:54:16 PM
Couldn't done my lower without ya!! Thanks!!
Fast_Ed
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Posted: 2/25/2006 3:05:20 PM
I mixed up the safety detent spring and the bolt stop spring, sent the front takedown pin detent spring and detent flying across the kitchen, and couldn't figure out how to assemble the magazine release. THEN I read this post.

Thanks for all the help. I only wish I wasn't the "do first, read the instructions later" kind of guy. It would save a ton of headaches.

Fast Ed
dabigbozman
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Posted: 2/25/2006 7:15:33 PM
Awesome thread, I just built mine
FALARAK
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Posted: 3/6/2006 6:24:00 PM
Bump - updated to the new style LaRue FF rail tube with sling mount.
Ever notice how people on the Left talk about leaving the Country and people on the Right talk about taking the Country back?
Hk_Kommando
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Posted: 3/7/2006 2:18:38 AM
[Last Edit: 3/10/2006 10:58:59 AM by Hk_Kommando]
One little tip....if you're installing a RRA 2 stage trigger group....INSTALL THE SAFETY FIRST, or you'll end up removing the FCG pins YIPPEE!!!!

I wish I'd have known that.....


Thanks for the info! I had lego kits when I was a kid that were harder than the AR with your tutorial!!!!

studio253
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Posted: 3/8/2006 2:33:27 AM
Thank you for the great information!!
Warmaster
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Posted: 3/8/2006 1:43:09 PM
Ditto that. Thanks for all the info. Great DIY.
Thanks
Bret
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Posted: 3/8/2006 11:47:39 PM
Thanks for the great instructions. I thought that changing a barrel was beyond my abilities, but it turns out that it's not.

If your new barrel comes with the delta ring, spring, and snap-ring already installed, then you don't need to purchase snap ring pliers and can skip step 8. I had purchased the snap ring pliers before I figured this out, but I ended up needing them to work on my kitchen sink. I guess that sometimes things just have a way of working out.
cyclops55
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Posted: 3/16/2006 1:10:44 PM
Thanks for the Good Instructions. Own several ARs, but I built my first lower with your help. Put in an ambi safety with no problem too. Like to see some Lefty and Ambi options. Thanks again!
NAVYRETIRED1
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Posted: 3/17/2006 1:38:27 AM
GOOD STUFF, I LIKE I LIKE IT. YOU'VE DONE A WONDERFUL SERIES. VERY MUCH. SORRY ABOUT THE CAPS NEED NEW KEY BOARD
desertvet762
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Posted: 3/19/2006 5:00:30 PM
THis is the exact intel I have been looking for!!!
JackBurton
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Posted: 3/19/2006 6:28:48 PM
AWESOME!
Where's the torque wrench come in?
"Its like I told my last wife, I never drive faster than I can see. Besides, its all in the reflexes."
FALARAK
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Posted: 3/19/2006 6:32:55 PM
[Last Edit: 3/19/2006 6:36:33 PM by FALARAK]

Originally Posted By JackBurton:
AWESOME!
Where's the torque wrench come in?



On the first page:


Common Q&A:

Q2. What about the toquing three times, to 80ft/lbs like the TM says?

A2. While using a torque wrench is never a bad idea, it is not required. Snug it up, a few times if it feels rough, then line up with next gas tube hole.... sometime this will take a lot of force, sometimes just a little. If you arent sure, or nervous, go to the local auto parts store and borrow a torque wrench for ft. pounds.



The benefit of the torque wrench is just to make sure you are at the minimum spec, before checking your gas tube alignment. I just get it good and snug, then check. It has to go to the next gas tube notch. Sometimes this will mean just a little bit more, and sometime, if you have a long way to go, it will be very tight to get there, often beyond the max torque. Since you HAVE to get it alinged, overtorquing is not really an issue. The biggest problem is.... if people are overtorquing to begin with.... say they apply 50lbs, then check. If it would have lined up perfectly at 40 lbs, they should have stopped.

Since my elbow "clicks" at 30lbs, I dont need one.
FREE 1GUNRUNNER!
JackBurton
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Posted: 3/19/2006 7:39:39 PM
If anyone will print this up for me, I'll pay you ten bucks plus shipping. My printer can't handle it!
"Its like I told my last wife, I never drive faster than I can see. Besides, its all in the reflexes."
RedSixRomeo
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Posted: 3/21/2006 1:35:35 AM
Hi,

Faralak, thanks to this step-bystep I'm almost complete with my Lower build. I've run into a small problem though. The Bolt Catch Spring seems to have gotten stuck in the Bolt Catch Plunger hole and I can't get it out. The Hole is in Spec because the Plunger comes out freely but the Spring is jammed in there. Any tips or ideas on how to get it out? With the Spring stuck in there it basically renders my Bolt Catch useless since there is no rebound in the Bolt Catch. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

RSR
RedSixRomeo
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Posted: 3/21/2006 3:19:34 AM
Thanks for your Help !!! This was my 1st Build ever with absolutely no experience and it went fairly smoothly, I just got 2 springs mixed up but got it corrected and now I'm squared away !! Thanks, I appreciate your Step-by-Step Guide !!!
JackBurton
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Posted: 3/21/2006 9:44:48 PM
Do you guys think a 6" vise is overkill? I can take it back and switch it for a 4" but it'll have to be done tomorrow...help!
"Its like I told my last wife, I never drive faster than I can see. Besides, its all in the reflexes."
FALARAK
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Posted: 3/21/2006 10:43:07 PM

Originally Posted By JackBurton:
Do you guys think a 6" vise is overkill? I can take it back and switch it for a 4" but it'll have to be done tomorrow...help!



All you *need* is a 4" vise to get a grip on the action block.... but speaking as an individual who has broken a cast iron vise, I am a firm believer your vise can never be too big.
FREE 1GUNRUNNER!
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