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Posted: 1/20/2012 9:13:04 AM
Add me to the list of first time build-and-post-a-thank-you
Great thread, thanks so much for taking the time to post such a detailed how-to! My first build went very smoothly, the vise-grip trick worked perfectly. Built my wife a nice lightweight carbine with a Spikes lower and parts kit and a Stag 3H upper.  |
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Posted: 1/24/2012 9:55:44 PM
[Last Edit: 1/24/2012 9:57:32 PM by Hwhiskey82]
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Posted: 2/4/2012 1:08:25 PM
Pure genius. Made one one of these tools out of some scrap 1/4" delrin. No spring chasing... Perfect
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Posted: 2/24/2012 6:23:05 PM
Originally Posted By FALARAK:
Install your own free-float rail system, step by step: LaRue 7.0 step by step: This section specifically relates to installing a LaRue Tactical 7.0 float tube. Thus far, this is one of the finest float tubes on the market. It covers everything you need in a float tube, and is priced right for the quality of manufacturing. A couple points..... it has an indexing (anti-rotation) device that located on the upper receiver, and will not allow the tube to spin. It also is not as "fat" as some of the other tubes, which provides a better grip with rail panels installed. I REALLY like this rail system! As a new addition - LaRue has also added a quick release sling mount near the receiver, compatible with Vltor quick release sling attachments. It also has an anti-rotation device to keep your sling from getting twisted. This guide will cover installing a LaRue 7.0 lightweight carbine float tube, from LaRue Tactical. http://www.kevinholman.com/byor/float/larue/1larue7.jpg Ok, lets cover the necessary tools. What you need: Since this procedure requires removal of the barrel/barrel nut, you will need many of the same tools as listed in the Step by step guide to building a complete upper, above. See the above post... but to sum it up, you will need a good action block, armorers wrench, 1/16" punch, snap ring pliers, moly-grease, and a vise. You will also need a couple punches. You just need a good sized (1/4") soft brass punch and a steel 1/8" punch. (allen wrench and blue loctite supplied with tube!) That’s it for tools! Now here are the step-by-step instructions: 1. Remove the upper from the rifle. Remove the handguards. Remove the muzzle device. Remove the front sight base. Unscrew the factory barrel nut and remove the nut, and delta ring assembly (we wont be needing these)] Is it necessary to remove the muzzle device and FSB? What if you have a pinned/welded muzzle device? Can you install this FF rail (or another one) by removing the barrel from the upper receiver? |
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Chizzle
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Joined: Jun 2007  NC, USA
 Posts: 2636 Feedback: 100% (1) Link To This Post |
Posted: 2/24/2012 9:12:02 PM
I just wanted to stop by and say thank you for the great thread and pictures! Between this thread and the guide I managed to get my lower together, took a little time but I worked slow at it to make sure I didn't miss anything. Very simple by following the pictures and directions.
Here is a picture of what I just finished, now going to wait a few weeks to get an upper-probably going to be a Spike's because that is what my local gun shop carries.  |
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FALARAK
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Joined: May 2001 TX, USA
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Posted: 2/28/2012 11:18:01 AM
Originally Posted By Shqype: Is it necessary to remove the muzzle device and FSB? What if you have a pinned/welded muzzle device? Can you install this FF rail (or another one) by removing the barrel from the upper receiver? In order to install a typical free float rail, yes - because this requires removal of the old barrel nut. If you have a pinned/welded muzzle device - that makes it a big PITA. That's one reason I hate any barrel shorter than 16" due to current law. It limits your options. There are two piece FF railed handguards that can be installed on the existing barrel nut, without removing the FSB and muzzle device. Shop around. |
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Posted: 2/28/2012 12:07:24 PM
Originally Posted By FALARAK:
Originally Posted By Shqype:
Is it necessary to remove the muzzle device and FSB? What if you have a pinned/welded muzzle device? Can you install this FF rail (or another one) by removing the barrel from the upper receiver? In order to install a typical free float rail, yes - because this requires removal of the old barrel nut. If you have a pinned/welded muzzle device - that makes it a big PITA. That's one reason I hate any barrel shorter than 16" due to current law. It limits your options. There are two piece FF railed handguards that can be installed on the existing barrel nut, without removing the FSB and muzzle device. Shop around. Thanks for the reply. Does this apply to something like the Troy Alpha rail as well? And does this mean that you can't install a barrel nut from the other end, ie bypassing the muzzle end? |
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Posted: 3/8/2012 2:34:37 PM
just got mine built this morning. had a bit of an issue with the disconnector spring but once that got squared away, was a quick and painless project. Thanks for the step by steps!
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gjg
Ignore me.....I'm just increasing my post count...
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Joined: Aug 2006 TX, USA
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Posted: 3/8/2012 11:02:20 PM
[Last Edit: 3/8/2012 11:05:28 PM by gjg]
Originally Posted By Shqype: Originally Posted By FALARAK: Originally Posted By Shqype: Is it necessary to remove the muzzle device and FSB? What if you have a pinned/welded muzzle device? Can you install this FF rail (or another one) by removing the barrel from the upper receiver? In order to install a typical free float rail, yes - because this requires removal of the old barrel nut. If you have a pinned/welded muzzle device - that makes it a big PITA. That's one reason I hate any barrel shorter than 16" due to current law. It limits your options. There are two piece FF railed handguards that can be installed on the existing barrel nut, without removing the FSB and muzzle device. Shop around. Thanks for the reply. Does this apply to something like the Troy Alpha rail as well? And does this mean that you can't install a barrel nut from the other end, ie bypassing the muzzle end? the barrel nut must go on from the muzzle end and before a FSB or gas block is installed. the alpha must do the same, after the low profile gas block and tube are installed but it does utilize the original barrel nut which does not have to be removed if your adding the alpha to an existing setup. it is not hard....i just built my first upper and it is so simple it hurts. |
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Posted: 4/3/2012 9:10:04 PM
Originally Posted By babob:
Originally Posted By sch40:
I have a question about torquing any of these parts. I have a barrel/castle/armorer's wrench, and I have a torque wrench. Am I missing something? Do you use them together, like put the square ratcheting lug of the torque wrench in the armourers wrench? Wouldn't that throw off the torque scale? Any info would be helpful. Thanks, sch40 I'm not a physics expert but I didn't see a problem connecting the torque wrench and armourers tool to make sure of the final torque. (see pic below ) When I did my first install, the one item that I was unclear on was what the hell did everyone mean by "snug it up" two to three times and then line up the next gas tube holes. It became obvious when I went to tighten the barrel nut and there was NO way the gas tube holes we're going to align without loosening and "snugging it up again". Make sure to clean the threads and then apply a small amout of Moly grease before doing the snug up procedure. I'd also like to add that when doing the "snug it" procedure it's a good idea to check the torque but I'm pretty sure it will be tight enough. Minimum torque is 31 ftlb. You'll get that and then some when doing the procedure and aligning the next gas tube holes. I checked mine with the torque wrench and it clicked right away. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v639/babob/LaRue70003.jpg Hope this helps.  There is some fancy math involved to get the correct torque but to make things simple keep the TQW and AT 90 degrees out. |
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Posted: 4/16/2012 2:29:34 PM
hi everyone. I have a 16" carbine length AR15 set up with the Magpul Handguard. Lately I've been wanting to change out the handguard to something metal. I have saw a few carbine drop in quad rail but I think they're a bit too short for me. My AR has the A2 FSP so I don't know what route to go as I have no tool to properly remove the barrel. Thought about going to a gun smith but they charge too much for that job. Saw the stuff about cutting off the FSP but that still requires to take the barrel off. Is there an easier way to change from the drop in handguard system to a free float?
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Trumptone
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Posted: 4/16/2012 2:55:58 PM
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Posted: 4/16/2012 3:56:25 PM
May be I wasn't clear enough. I don't want a carbine lenght handguard anymore. I like something a bit longer than 7" because it doesn't give me much room. May be like 9"-10". I know if I can get it convert it to a free float that would be no problem since I can just put in a low profile gas block. Time to befriend a gunsmith lol. |
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GoGop
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Posted: 4/18/2012 9:14:41 PM
[Last Edit: 9/13/2012 5:27:20 PM by GoGop]
I just built my first lower, which is also my first AR pistol, and there's no way I would have attempted it without your instructions. I still had trouble with a couple things, like how the hammer and trigger springs go in, but I looked in my Bushmaster and got it that way. Then I found the directions, in the safety check link after you're finished.
 Thanks for posting this; I'd have had no clue without it.   Edit: I finished my pistol a while back, but only recently got a bag to carry it (using a suggestion from someone else).  Here's the bag I got. It's a tennis racquet bag, that cost me $15 at Walmart.     http://www.walmart.com/ip/Wilson-Racquet-Tennis-Bag/13032442 |
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drobs
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Posted: 4/21/2012 3:34:01 PM
Only took me about 3 or 4 years but I finally assembled the the lower for this gun today.
Learned something assembling the lower. Have handled cheap feeling AR's like Olympic Plinkers way back when. Always noticed that the selector levers were loose causing the gun to feel cheap. In building this I trial fitted the selector lever and used the wrong spring. I used a take down detent spring which resulted in a sloppy selector. Realize what I did and replaced it with the correct spring. The correct spring solves that wobbly lever issue. Thanks again for the step by step guide! |
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Posted: 5/9/2012 4:43:20 PM
This thread has been an incredible source of knowledge in helping with my first build.
Kudos to the OP for a very imformative tutorial. |
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Posted: 6/3/2012 9:21:43 PM
Thanks so much for the great information. This is my first build and it's going great. Thanks again. Mike
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Posted: 6/5/2012 8:19:40 PM
Thank you for all the information, and knowledge!!! This is extremely helpful with my first build!
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Posted: 6/27/2012 6:49:41 PM
This guide helped me out so much! I'm so glad for this walk through thanks a million. I built my first ar and will post pics of the lower later thanks again!
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Posted: 6/27/2012 8:54:37 PM
[Last Edit: 6/27/2012 8:57:43 PM by Chrismang85]
Here is the picture with a DSA lower and DSA parts kit =) love it! Thanks again
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Posted: 8/3/2012 5:35:33 PM
Oh this is exactly what I am looking for!! This forum is the best!! So glad I found it!!
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Posted: 9/13/2012 10:28:27 AM
wow, thanks for this thread!
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Posted: 10/18/2012 5:23:18 PM
First lower assembled. |
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Posted: 11/5/2012 8:26:16 AM
Great thread!! Just finished printing the whole dang thing out to put in a binder.
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FALARAK
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Posted: 11/5/2012 8:30:56 AM
Originally Posted By Trueweltall:
http://s10.postimage.org/njqkyhzu1/DSCN0939.jpg First lower assembled. Excellent choice on a rifle stock - I really like that one. |
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