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CT, USA
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Posted: 10/7/2005 12:05:30 AM EDT
[#1]
what is "CLP" ?
thanks! |
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Posted: 10/7/2005 8:16:20 AM EDT
[#2]
The only Cleaner/Lubricant/Protectant that should be used on the AR15/M16 family of rifles. It is documented in the technical manuals, listed at the top of this thread. Breakfree CLP is a popular brand of CLP and available anywhere gun cleaning supplies are sold. |
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CT, USA
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Posted: 10/7/2005 3:25:00 PM EDT
[#3]
Thanks FALARAK It's been so long since someone posted to this topic I was'nt sure you would respond.
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Posted: 10/10/2005 2:10:15 PM EDT
[#4]
tag
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Posted: 10/10/2005 2:50:55 PM EDT
[#5]
tg
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Posted: 10/10/2005 3:56:26 PM EDT
[Last Edit: FALARAK]
[#6]
For those who didn't read it on page 1 of this thread.....
There is no need to tag this post. It is tacked at the top of the Build It Yourself forums, and always will be there. It will fall out of your "My Active Topics" quickly so tagging it just adds noise to the thread.  If there is a problem with the pictures or anything with the post - please email me - keep the thread to technical discussion, to cut out the noise. |
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CT, USA
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Posted: 10/10/2005 5:32:35 PM EDT
[#7]
hey, can I ask another maybe dumb question? What do you mean by "tag"?
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LA, USA
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Posted: 10/10/2005 10:18:15 PM EDT
[#8]
Although I haven't ordered a single part for my build yet due to continuing research, I have a question:
I have read this post and all other info I could find here about assembling my own upper, but I do not see instructions on assembling the actual receiver (charging handle, bolt carrier etc). Is this just too idiot-proof to talk about or was it left out because it is not recommended to assemble this yourself? Brian |
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Posted: 10/11/2005 12:47:13 AM EDT
[#9]
An A3 flat-top upper is pretty damn simple. An A2 rear sight assembly can be a little tricky, but no more than assembling a lower. I have had several requests to post this how-to.... but to be honest, I always buy my upper receivers complete... because you really dont save a dime by ordering these stripped. I have been meaning to order a stripped A2 adn A3 upper to post this.... but just never get around to it. If someone wants to send me their parts, I will assemble them for free and use them for the guide. |
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LA, USA
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Posted: 10/11/2005 12:53:57 AM EDT
[#10]
Thanks for the info! I might take you up on that assembly for the how-to. If I ever make up my mind on what I want, that is 
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Posted: 10/20/2005 7:40:18 PM EDT
[#11]
tag
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Posted: 10/24/2005 6:24:41 PM EDT
[#12]
I keep seeing the "How do I mark the safe/fire on my lower?" come up and thought I would add some info on how to do this. I'm not suggesting that one method is better than any of the others. I personally use the lacquer-stiks and have no experience with the other methods. YMMV.
Typically safe is marked white and fire red on "military" weapons that have them marked at all. HK being the typical example. Here are some methods that can be used to do this. Make sure you clean and degrease the safe/fire grooves thoughly before making any treatment on the marking for best adhesion and best results. 1. Crayons/Grease pencils. This done by rubbing the crayon/grease pencil across the cuts in the lower until they are filled flush with surface. I have seen mention of using Blue Wonder Armadillo as a protectant over this treatment. Make sure you rub the filling in well with a clean cloth and remove any surface film around the markings for the cleanest look. Apparently Crayola crayons are the best since they are proofed and heat tested while brand x is not. 2. Testors model paint. I mention testors since its readily available and used by a number people. Using a tooth pick or pointed artist brush fill the marking with paint. This may require more than one coat depending upon the desired results and your skill. Clean up can be done with a clean cloth and solvent after paint is throughly dry. 3. Lacquer-stiks. These are available from Brownells and come in red, white, gold, silver and black. You can obtain them elsewhere I'm sure. I mention Brownells because I know they have them and keep them in stock. Once you have removed the dried crust they resemble a soft crayon and are used the same as in method 1. The lacquer-stiks differ from crayon/grease pencil as it hardens and becomes permanent. |
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NC, USA
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Posted: 11/6/2005 3:42:53 PM EDT
[#13]
Where are the pictures? They're not showing up again.
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AR, USA
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Posted: 11/21/2005 7:26:07 AM EDT
[#14]
+1 |
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VA, USA
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Posted: 11/24/2005 10:27:42 AM EDT
[#15]
AWESOME work ! Best instructions I have found anywhere on the net. I've been debating buying a Bushmaster, or getting a Stag Arms reciever and building my own a little at a time. Just seems like fun.
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OH, USA
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Posted: 11/26/2005 1:15:21 AM EDT
[#16]
FALARACK, hello. thanks for all the info. as soon as i get the funds, i am going to install a firsh ff rail and a flip up front sight. this will be my first modifying job. if you got any tips,tricks,pics,words of wisdom, i would appreciate it.
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GA, USA
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Posted: 11/28/2005 8:39:22 PM EDT
[#17]
Just odered a Chip Mccormick drop in trigger (2 stage flat trigger). Never used one, but I hear good things. Any thoughts?
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Posted: 12/7/2005 12:37:26 PM EDT
[#18]
I have seen (can't find the pic) an assembly tool which appears to be a block that goes inside the UPPER receiver and is retained with two pins. Bottom goes into a vise. I don't know if this is a barrel assembly tool or not; saw it in an M.S.T.N. photo but cannot find it.
Is this a barrel assembly tool? |
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Posted: 12/7/2005 1:01:44 PM EDT
[#19]
www.dsgarms.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=340 That is a different type of action block.... made by DPMS. I dont own this style... dont really see the point. Probably required if you use a non-standard upper receiver (like DPMS makes) |
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Posted: 12/7/2005 1:35:56 PM EDT
[#20]
I wondered about it because someone (you) had to modify your receiver block in order to install a LaRue forend (not enough clearance up front). This would seem to solve the problem of taking the dremel out...;) I will try it and see. Very very helpful and useful thread, btw - thank you. |
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MO, USA
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Posted: 12/7/2005 1:43:42 PM EDT
[Last Edit: HRSGRUNNER]
[#21]
I bought the DPMS "CLAW" from PK last week at a show. I've heard both good and bad about it, just like everything. I haven't had the op to use it yet, still waiting on a price drop on a CMMG barrel! The first one he tried to sell me was deformed like it had been dropped so I'm kind of courious to it's durability.
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Posted: 12/7/2005 1:46:35 PM EDT
[#22]
What have you heard that's bad about it? I have a gunshow old USGI combo wrench; while it is the correct tool to remove the 3-prong flash suppressor I have, it is decidedly not the correct tool to use to remove a c. 1964 Colt barrel that's tight tight tight. I think I'm getting the SEI wrench; Brownell's, here we come! |
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KY, USA
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Posted: 12/9/2005 10:06:41 AM EDT
[#23]
Thanks for the info on building the lower. The instructions are clear and easy to follow. This is the best firearms "DIY" post on the net. It took me about 20 minutes to put my LPK into a pistol lower. Thanks again, GREAT JOB!
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MT, USA
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Posted: 12/30/2005 7:46:49 PM EDT
[#24]
How much would something like that cost? |
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VA, USA
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Posted: 1/1/2006 10:00:40 AM EDT
[#25]
I completed my first lower assembly following these instructions. It came out great. I am 3/4 finished with my AR15. I am working on the upper right now. I am waiting for my bolt carrier assembly and forward assist. I assume they are just as easy to install as the lower parts were.
Brent |
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KS, USA
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Posted: 1/12/2006 12:59:00 AM EDT
[#26]
One little tip on installing a match trigger, specifically a RRA, when you go to install the hammer push a punch through the hole in the reciever and then latch the hammer over the disconnector before installing the pin. I personally had trouble with the hammer binding and not letting me push the pin through without latching it on the disconnector.
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Posted: 1/14/2006 1:22:24 PM EDT
[Last Edit: GhostRecon1]
[#27]
I would like to say Thank You for the incredible instructions. I have been wanting to change out my own barrels and never had the guts to do it until I read your thread.
My only question is: If my front sight is off to one side, is it bad to have to losen up the barrel a couple of times to correct it? Does it do any damage to anything? |
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Posted: 1/15/2006 7:48:56 PM EDT
[#28]
No problem. It happens, especially canting to the left just a bit when you torque the barrel nut down. This is listed in the Q&A on the first page:
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FL, USA
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Posted: 1/26/2006 10:00:07 PM EDT
[#29]
Beautiful instructions. Very methodical in scope. A definite read for anyone.
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USA
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Posted: 2/2/2006 10:52:59 PM EDT
[#30]
I just completed my first build. Your instructions were easy to follow and right on point. I have never put anything together that went this smooth.
Thanks, Pete |
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IA, USA
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Posted: 2/15/2006 11:05:54 PM EDT
[Last Edit: MarkRSims]
[#31]
Just a quick question, as I'm about to get into this soon. Under "Install your own free-float rail system, step by step:" you remove the front sight base, but it does not show how the front handguard cap is attached or how to remove it. Is it attached to the FSB, or is it just captured in place between the FSB and the barrel?
By the way, What a great post!!! Thanx!!! |
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Posted: 2/15/2006 11:27:52 PM EDT
[#32]
The front handguard cap is captured between the FSB and a shoulder in the barrel. Remove the FSB, the handguard cap just slips off behind it. |
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Posted: 2/23/2006 12:54:16 PM EDT
[#33]
Couldn't done my lower without ya!! Thanks!!
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WI, USA
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Posted: 2/25/2006 3:05:20 PM EDT
[#34]
I mixed up the safety detent spring and the bolt stop spring, sent the front takedown pin detent spring and detent flying across the kitchen, and couldn't figure out how to assemble the magazine release. THEN I read this post.
Thanks for all the help. I only wish I wasn't the "do first, read the instructions later" kind of guy. It would save a ton of headaches. Fast Ed |
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OR, USA
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Posted: 2/25/2006 7:15:33 PM EDT
[#35]
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Posted: 3/6/2006 6:24:00 PM EDT
[#36]
Bump - updated to the new style LaRue FF rail tube with sling mount.
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MI, USA
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Posted: 3/7/2006 2:18:38 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Hk_Kommando]
[#37]
One little tip....if you're installing a RRA 2 stage trigger group....INSTALL THE SAFETY FIRST, or you'll end up removing the FCG pins YIPPEE!!!!
I wish I'd have known that..... Thanks for the info! I had lego kits when I was a kid that were harder than the AR with your tutorial!!!! |
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RI, USA
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Posted: 3/8/2006 2:33:27 AM EDT
[#38]
Thank you for the great information!!
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CA, USA
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Posted: 3/8/2006 1:43:09 PM EDT
[#39]
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USA
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Posted: 3/8/2006 11:47:39 PM EDT
[#40]
Thanks for the great instructions. I thought that changing a barrel was beyond my abilities, but it turns out that it's not.
If your new barrel comes with the delta ring, spring, and snap-ring already installed, then you don't need to purchase snap ring pliers and can skip step 8. I had purchased the snap ring pliers before I figured this out, but I ended up needing them to work on my kitchen sink. I guess that sometimes things just have a way of working out.
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TX, USA
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Posted: 3/16/2006 1:10:44 PM EDT
[#41]
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MO, USA
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Posted: 3/17/2006 1:38:27 AM EDT
[#42]
GOOD STUFF, I LIKE I LIKE IT. YOU'VE DONE A WONDERFUL SERIES. VERY MUCH. SORRY ABOUT THE CAPS NEED NEW KEY BOARD
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MI, USA
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Posted: 3/19/2006 5:00:30 PM EDT
[#43]
 THis is the exact intel I have been looking for!!!
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Posted: 3/19/2006 6:28:48 PM EDT
[#44]
AWESOME!
Where's the torque wrench come in? |
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Posted: 3/19/2006 6:32:55 PM EDT
[Last Edit: FALARAK]
[#45]
On the first page:
The benefit of the torque wrench is just to make sure you are at the minimum spec, before checking your gas tube alignment. I just get it good and snug, then check. It has to go to the next gas tube notch. Sometimes this will mean just a little bit more, and sometime, if you have a long way to go, it will be very tight to get there, often beyond the max torque. Since you HAVE to get it alinged, overtorquing is not really an issue. The biggest problem is.... if people are overtorquing to begin with.... say they apply 50lbs, then check. If it would have lined up perfectly at 40 lbs, they should have stopped. Since my elbow "clicks" at 30lbs, I dont need one. 
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Posted: 3/19/2006 7:39:39 PM EDT
[#46]
If anyone will print this up for me, I'll pay you ten bucks plus shipping. My printer can't handle it!
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USA
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Posted: 3/21/2006 1:35:35 AM EDT
[#47]
Hi,
Faralak, thanks to this step-bystep I'm almost complete with my Lower build. I've run into a small problem though. The Bolt Catch Spring seems to have gotten stuck in the Bolt Catch Plunger hole and I can't get it out. The Hole is in Spec because the Plunger comes out freely but the Spring is jammed in there. Any tips or ideas on how to get it out? With the Spring stuck in there it basically renders my Bolt Catch useless since there is no rebound in the Bolt Catch. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. RSR |
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USA
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Posted: 3/21/2006 3:19:34 AM EDT
[#48]
Thanks for your Help !!! This was my 1st Build ever with absolutely no experience and it went fairly smoothly, I just got 2 springs mixed up but got it corrected and now I'm squared away !! Thanks, I appreciate your Step-by-Step Guide !!!
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Posted: 3/21/2006 9:44:48 PM EDT
[#49]
Do you guys think a 6" vise is overkill? I can take it back and switch it for a 4" but it'll have to be done tomorrow...help!
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Posted: 3/21/2006 10:43:07 PM EDT
[#50]
All you *need* is a 4" vise to get a grip on the action block.... but speaking as an individual who has broken a cast iron vise, I am a firm believer your vise can never be too big.
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