I'm finally biting the bullet and getting a U boat for my pistol. It's a P226R with the stupid proprietary Sig rail. It seems that the general consensus is to get the T B model for metal framed pistols, but then I read about the screws breaking. The light will stay on the pistol unless I'm changing batteries or maybe shooting it at a match without the light. Is the B model the better of the two for my application or should I go with the A?

Also, I called Safariland and they say that my current 6280 (for the 226 with TLR-1 or X300 should fit with the X300U. Does anyone have experience in that arena?

Thanks in advance.

A key point when using a Surefire light on your handgun is do NOT overtighten the screws.

It was my understanding that ALL of the "B" lights are 600 lumen, while the "A" lights were originally 500 lumen, but then the "A" model was changed to also be 600 lumen. 

I have an older "A" (on a p220 combat) and a newer "B" (on an AR-15)...there's also a difference in the mount itself, but I haven't abused either enough to say one is more durable than the other.

This article might help answer your questions.

As for the holsters...I can't say for sure...but if it's Kydex, a little judicious application of the heat gun would soften it up long enough to mold it a bit to make up for any of the small dimensional differences between the 2 models.

Thank you for the information. I had read that article and the author stated that the B model is preferable for metal framed pistols but there were members here in another thread that said that the A model's mounting system is preferable overall.

How have you found the A model to work with the proprietary rails on the Sig Sauer? I saw a video where someone said it requires filing and I'm not really keen on doing that.

I've thrown the "A" back and forth from my p220 Combat to my Glock 20 and back without any modification whatsoever since taking it new out of the box.  

Breaking screws aside, I much prefer the B model. It is easier to remove the light than the A model. While the A model just snaps onto the rail, it can take a lot of struggle to remove it while the B model is much easier.

Also, if there is any variation in the rail, the A model can be either too tight or too lose. I have had both happen. The B model you simply hand tighten to your rail regardless of variations etc.

And, if you will ever mount the X300 to a long gun, the B model is the only way to go IMO.

220 Combat has a 1913 rail.

I'd go with the B on a metal framed gun.  The A, I think, is better suited for plastic.  

I used the B for a year on a MK25 and I broke a screw and a tail cap, but it used pretty hard.

Thank you for the replies. I think I'll go with the B model. I hope that it's a nice step up from my TLR-1. The DG switch is what I really look forward to using.

Samuse, did SF take care of you?

Surefire's CS is pretty good.  I had an older helmet light where the switch crapped out.  Called 'em up, got an RMA#, sent it in...had a brand new one in hand about a week later.

Sorry for the late reply, yes, they did.  Sent me new parts no questions asked.  

The dumb bitch that answers the phone at Surefire now is stupid as fuck.  I don't think she even really knows where she works.  Getting through to anyone there is a royal PITA right now.  They need to fix their shit.

Had the same issue when I broke the screw on my B model.  I wasn't going to sit on hold for an hour, so I finally broke down and just purchased a better quality aftermarket hex head screw.

Haven't broken this one yet and even if I do, I've got 49 more in a bag in my workbench.

Well you are in luck. I ran a 6280 as a duty holster for years. I have 4 M600U lights. I ran a M600U on a Sig P226R in that holster.

First things first. Prefer the A not the B. Fits great. For a tight fit, I used the U plate, adjusted the rail width, then built up the rear flat of the plastic cover between the switches on the X300U with squares of electric tape. I did this so I could still pop it on the front of a rifle picatinny rail, as the handgun light is my backup rifle light.

The X300U in an old regular X300 holster requires you remove the end cap cover for the holster. Newer Safariland holsters for the X300U are longer so the cap/cover fits without interference. I lost those eventually on my older duty holsters anyway so no loss. If tjis is an old holster, its 50/50 if you already lost it. Light bezel still did not protrude. Newer holsters also hold that disk in better.

I also had to do a mod on an STX holster to make a CTC grip fit, but newer holsters may fit the newer front strap activated CTC laser grips.