Hi all,

Looking to get away from C123A batteries and go with a common AA for all my lights. Any suggestions on weapon lights?

Here are a couple I found:

1) SureFire M Series Scout Light, LED WeaponLights with TIR Lens and Tumbscrew Mount. Priced at $208 with just a momentary tail cap switch seems like a good option. Still, price is a factor.

2) Streamlight ProTac Rail Mount 1 Weapon Light with Remote Switch with 1 AA and 1 CR123A Battery Aluminum Black. Priced at $105 it's more budget minded. I like the fact it can use either 123s or AA batteries, with lesser output with the AA of course.

Anyone use either of these or have any other AA weapon light opinions?

Thanks!

HC

There is a separate current thread right here now about the Streamlight RM-1 and RM-2.  I have an RM-1 and like it alot.  I did upgrade it with a Thorntail Scout mount to move it more forward.  It's a nice, solid, well thought out weapon light.  My tapeswitch is on the top rail for ambi access.

For a weapons light I would go with the SureFire AA Scout. A couple of things to think about your not going to get the run time or output compared to a CR123A. Also unless you run lithium AA you have a higher probability of battery leakage with alkaline batteries with the cells stored in the light.

Completely agree about not running alkaline AA batteries in anything you plan to keep.  They will leak.  Run lithium.  Yes, AA's don't have the same output or run as long, but they are a viable alternative, especially for indoor HD use.

Thanks M,

Could you please point me to the RM-1 / RM-2 thread you mentioned? The only reference I found on the site was >>THIS<<

Excellent reminder. Thanks.

The only reason ordinary AAs would be ever be used would be SHTF.

Just back out to the general page for this subforum, Lights and Lasers, and scroll down.  There are at least three active threads going on right now in the first 20 threads involving the Streamlight Pro Tac RM tactical lights.

https://www.ar15.com/forums/f_3/20_Lights-and-Lasers.html

Ahh, I see it now. I was looking for RM-1 and glossing over Rail Mount 1.

Thanks!

Another vote for the RM1. I have several and so far they've all been 100%. Run CR123's while you have them, switch to AA's when you have to.

Tomac

I just picked up an RM-1, seems like a nice light.  I like the compact size and fuel flexibility.

Good luck?

I avoided CR123 batteries for for flashlights for the longest time.  Finally gave up, several years ago, when I finally had to concede that if I wanted both light and runtime I'd have to give in.  When it came to WMLs I didn't even try to fight it.  Both my current WMLs use CR123s and so will at least one of my optics.  All my newer flashlights use them.  Even the single 18650 light can use two CR123s if I want.

Whatever you do, don't use alkaleaks.  I use either Energizer primary lithiums or a good rechargeable, such as Eneloop.  I've just about got the last of the alkaleaks cycled out of the house, cars, etc., now, and good riddance.

Battery technology won't let you stick with AA. Since Li Ion is taking over everything you must accept it an embrace it. Half of everything out there has a lithium ion proprietary battery nowdays.

I have Enelopps in AA and AAA. I have lithium AA for storage. I have 123 cells, 2032 cells, 18650 cells, 16650 cells, and a ton of proprietary cells.The energy density and voltage of AA is just not good enough and will continue to fall behind. I love AA because my Eneloop last essentially for unlimited recharges, but everything is requiring more power now and in the future.

I don't limit myself to AA like some Y2K pepper from the last century and I don't think you should either. Active headsets take AAA cells now and work longer than AA variants that are discontinued. AA lights have reduced brightness and run time. 123 have the same issue vs Lithium Ion. I found for the weight of a AA headlamp (Zebralight ) and a necessary spare AA Eneloop, I could do an 18650 headlamp with one battery and get more brightness and more run time for the same weight. My AA headlamps became obsolete for outdoor use and relegated to center console or in house use.

AA everything is a bad idea IMO. You either end up using expensive lithium primaries or have heavy NiMh batteries with limited capacity and low voltage. A radio is another example of where AA cells offer far less range and life vs a lithium ion pack. It just makes little sense to limit yourself for no really good reason. Technology is moving forward, don't get left behind because you are afraid.

Thanks for the comments and opinions everyone.

Anyone else wanna chime in? All opinions welcome

I have two of these but I think they aren't made any more.

Thanks for the comment. I certainly understand your contempt for AA batteries when the C123 is plentiful. I think getting entirely away from C123 isn't likely. However, in the case of the Streamlight ProTac Rail Mount 1 Weapon Light that's "dual fuel" and can use EITHER AA or C123, doesn't that increase the battery supply? Isn't it a pretty good compromise?

The limiting factor again is run time and output. For indoor youd be ok but bring it outside and you regret not being able to run dual CR123A. In a very dark outdoor enviroment youd want a minimum of 200 lumen output

This is new to me (don't know how long they've been out), but so far I like it: http://grabagun.com/coltlt-cltsepms4002aa-microtac-400-lgt.html

I, too, prefer AA's as my WML's are the only things using CR123's and being able to go to AA's-only simplifies my logistics.
What I really like is the integral/reversible offset mount that allows easy switch access w/my support-side thumb w/o contortions or using a tapeswitch (using AA's is just icing on the cake for me).
This 'Colt' WML uses 2xAA's for 400 lumens, twice the output of the Surefire M600 AA and is considerably less expensive.
It's heavier than I would prefer but I don't find it excessive. I'm hoping for a couple of night shoots sometime soon so I can put it through its paces.

Tomac

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Wow! 400 is pretty dang good output.

Tomac, to be clear the above pictured rifle is yours? (BTW, Very nice!) Can you give some more details on the light's function and capability? Is the switch at the back a toggle? In the pics on the website it looks like a trigger almost.

Find a light that can use 18650. Longer run time, rechargeable 300-500 cycles. Will save money in the end. You can find 4pk of 3400mah panosonic NCR 18650s on Amazon for $30. 

In the 3yrs I've started using 18650s, I haven't had to toss any... Get yourself a nice charger and batts with good cells (Samsung, Panasonic, sony).

Yes, that's my rifle after some experimentation as to the best location (for me) for the WML. I found using the Magpul cantilever rail better positioned the switch for me than a std rail (YMMV) and adds just enough space between the WML & the hand guard that I can switch to 1xAA if needbe w/o the bezel jammed up against the hand guard.

What kind of details do you want? The light is very modular; you can reverse the mount and/or put the battery extension in front of or behind the mount. It will run on either 2xAA's or 1xAA (reduced output) if you remove the battery extension. Runtime w/2xAA's is supposedly 1hr.
There are dual O-rings at every threading.
The more I use the switch, the more I like it; it takes firm pressure to momentary-on and deliberate effort to constant-on. I have no worries about accidental activation.
I wish it was a little lighter (appx 8oz) but I can live w/that. My biggest complaint is that weird remote jack setup. As mounted in the picture above, I had to unscrew the switch unit appx 1/3 turn counter-clockwise to fit my hand guard on the right (shouldn't be any problems if mounted on the left).
The switch is a std momentary/constant-on clicky, it looks trigger-like in the photo because of the remote jack extension (see below).

HTH, let me know if you have more questions.

Tomac

Attached File

The single CR123A in the Rail Mount 1 is 350 lumens, well over your 200 lumen minimum.