If so, how did you do it?

We used to have a regular member here named quib who did this once and I'm thinking I want to try it.

What I'd like to do, I'm not sure is possible.  I'd like to try to mount this magppul cantilever rail:

https://www.magpul.com/products/m-lok-cantilever-rail-light-mount-polymer

To my double heats on my M4gery.  Although they don't really have double heat shields.  Just on top and bottom.  

The reason for not wanting the magpul handguard is it's a couple of ounces heavier.  Well, 1.6 to be exact.  So I'd be saving weight to mount it directly.  I do have a FSB rail but I was trying to eliminate that.  



It might be a dumb idea, but I thought I'd throw it out there if anyone has done this.

Ergo makes rails that bolt through the vent holes

I've been able to mount Magpul rail sections to standard handgaurds before. May need a little modification to get it just right, but it's cheap and effective

Thanks guys.

Hoplophile.  The issue with those is that you then have to find some kind of an offset mount, if you don't want to mount it on the very bottom.  Which I don't.   Would be good fora  VFG though, or something like that.

A dremel..some rails...A little JB Weld....and your imagination....

I took a standard hand guard and drilled through the metal heat shield.  Then attached a magpul rail section with m-lock style screws to it.

In mid nineties I had M4 look a like with colt grips and a rail bolted over the bottom cooling holes with a forward grip. The grip was so early there was no name on it. I still have the grip and rail. I use the grip.

Magpul makes standard (non-M-Lok) polymer rail sections for USGI handguards.  They attach through the vent holes.  You may have to remove one of the aluminum shields to make enough room for the backing plate inside.  They come in several lengths.

As stated above you will still need an offset light mount to attach to the rail section, so you might not save much weight.

Here is what mine looked like with the shortest polymer section at the front before I switched to a Daniel Defense Omega 7.0 rail (which is the same weight as the plastic handguards, BTW).

I've always like the viking tactics offset mount...


Here's another option to consider:  http://www.impactweaponscomponents.com/product/tmc-1-light-mount-n-slot/

Lots of good ideas.  I think I could save an ounce if I figured out how to do the MLOK thing with a rail section, like someone mentioned.  I'm not sure if I can get as good of a placement as with the FSB mount.  It does put the light in a very good spot for my thumb to hit.  

I think it might be fine the way it is and I'm splitting hairs with the ounces.  But sometimes an ounce really does feel like a pound.  LOL.   I don't remember if I mentioned it, but it's an HBAR and it's pretty front heavy.  Right now I got it at 7 pounds 1.5 ounces unloaded and it's a pretty handy weight.  That's with the Inforce APL on it.  

I do have an extra pair of handgaurds I may still try to fabricate something, just to see.  But I'm not sure if there is a much better placement.  I think it might be doable to put it at 1 or 2 oclock on a rail and hit the button with my ring finger or pinky on my support hand. But it obviously would put the light a little further back and some say don't do that for the barrel shading.....  I never really notice the barrel shading, until I actually look for it.  LOL.  

You might try B-Squares "Tri-Rail mount". I think Command Accessories Arms (CAA) makes something similar.
 I know GG&G makes rails that attach through the holes in the handguard, but I think something like the tri-rail is a closer fit for your needs as described.

Impact weapons mount is the best