This is interesting. Anyone tried it?

The pressure switch attaches nicely at the 12 o'clock position on my Magpul SL handguard with cantilever mount utilizing the included 3m double sided adhesive and zip ties.


BCM with Arisaka inline mount, pressure switch sitting in provided rail grabber mount at 12 o'clock.

Someone on another forum has already killed on in a similar location as yours. I am curious to see how your light holds up. On the flip side, I dug a little, and know people running them right there on SBR's since before you could buy one publicly, and they've lived fine. Keep us posted!

KMR handguard correct? I have the same rail, any issues mounting with the Arisaka inline mount?

Debating between this mount and the Noveske keymod mount that I already have on my MPX

Fresh out of the charger a lithium ion is 4.2 volts. The circuits are not so sensitive that the 1.2v difference is something to worry about. Plus, a 14500 is a small cell. even 325 lumens ansi requires an amp or so to make, and sucking an amp off a small lithium ion chops its voltage down fairly quickly.

Yes, KMR. No issues mounting whatsoever.

ETA the Arisaka inline mount brings the light very close and tight to the rail. It works great with unobtrusive front sights, like the Magpul Pros I run. I'm not sure if there'd be enough clearance for Troys or Magpul MBUS.

I'll keep you posted on how it holds up. It's on my duty rig, a Colt LE6933, so it gets beat up quite a bit. The SL handguard has a nice, flat surface for mounting the pressure pad at 12 o'clock via the 3m double sided sticky tape. I threaded the zip ties through the holes on the side of the handguard. My only concern is that 3m tape is like cement once it adheres, which is a good thing in my case since it's exactly where I want it. Just FYI for guys that constantly move their shit around.

May be an issue for me then, currently I just have some MBUS on the rifle. No biggie if there is some interference, I aint scared to use a dremel

The irony of everyone that cries about "made in China" yet they're complaining while using a computer or smart phone that has many components made in China. And I really hope they don't own any Norinco weapons, especially AKs.

Made in muuurrica doesn't mean crap, I've had my American made Surefire G2 Nitrolon I got in Iraq years ago that shorted out in the first 10 minutes I was using it! Surefire CS was good though and I mailed it back and got it repaired and sent back to me in Iraq in about a month. I still have the same light today but it has a upgraded LED bezel, made in China. I had a X300 mounted on my Springfield MC Operator that had the inner bezel lens crack, Surefire CS fixed that but I ended up selling it later because I just prefer the Streamlight TLR-1HL over it. I've used the TLR-1 series for years, and I love them, especially the lower price. I've had one TLR-1S battery cover crack and a TLR-2 red laser stop working but Streamlight CS is excellent as well, they sent me a new battery cover and they fixed that TLR-2 and returned it back quickly. I sold those as well when Streamlight came out with their HL series, much better. And don't get me started on Surefire's 60 round mag, unreliable American made trash right there!

I purchased a Fenix PD35 as a new work and EDC light and for the money it is one badass bright light, very impressed with it. I still need to test it mounted on my ARs but I'm sure it will handle it as well.

I use a Fenix UC35 daily as my backup light at work. Same thing as the PD35, but rechargeable. They are impressive for the money.

ETA, I have noticed both of my Streamlight RM2s flicker under recoil. It doesn't affect performance, just curious if others have experienced this. It can be replicated by turning the light on against a white wall, and tapping the buttstock.

Yeah I already like the Fenix better than my G2s I have and plan to get a second one. The only con so far is my PD35 has a less than 1" diameter in the middle of its body so my Vltor Scout SMQ-OCG mounts won't work with it, so I would have to spend extra to get  the E Series which will fit less than 1" diameter lights.

Never had any of my TLR-1s flicker under under recoil so I don't know about that. Call or email Streamlight CS, I'm sure they can help you out.

Posted in error

Mine does this.

I also unfortunately killed mine. Put in a fresh quality cr123, light works fine for a day. A day later it's dead and the light gently pulses. Back to streamlight it goes

Very pleased with my RM-1.

So.. has anyone actually used a 14500 Li-Ion in this light?

Just an update to this:

SL replaced my light with no questions asked and the new one has no battery bounce under recoil and has performed great. Very happy with it.

Sorry to bring up an older thread, but I got mine in and it flickers when I drop the bolt pretty easily.

Streamlight said it shouldn't and to get Amazon to replace it, I'm just a little disappointed because even my cheap Primary Arms light doesn't do that.

I'd rather buy something from China than the freaking Germans.  Plus so much stuff we use on a daily basis is from China.   I can understand people wanting to buy American though.  Totally.   But sometimes American stuff is needlessly expensive.

But having said all that.  I have a streamlight protac AA handheld.  And it is not working very well.  The bulb sometimes gets really dim and it's like erratic.  It was after I wrapped some tape around it and mounted it to my carbine with a 1" ring.  But I didn't think I was doing anything all that bad to it.  Now it's like, now you see me now you don't and it's irritating.  So.....  you get what you pay for may apply here.  I might try to return it.  IDK.  Not sure if I should feel responsible because of tightening a ring down on the body of it.  It doesn't look out of round or crimped or anything like that.

well I just killed mine on the first trip to the range. one mag suppressed and dead hope number two doesn't suck as much as the first one

Been very happy with my RM-1 so far.  Not seeing any flicker.

I did end up putting mine in a Thorntail Scout mount (it fits perfectly) to move it more forward, because I want to keep the A2 FSB and the short, light, Daniel Defense Omega rail.

Talked to streamlight this morning they were very helpful. Guy was like so what adress am I shipping your new light to(I like that) he then asked if I would ship back the dead one so they could look at it. Like it was optional...other places could learn from streamlight how customers should be treated when they have a real issue...thanks

That's good to hear about their CS.

Amazon sent me a second light but it still flickers when I chamber a round. So off to streamlight it goes.

2 of my Pro Tacs did that. 1 HL and one HL3.  It's unfortunate since Streamlight can clearly make the TLR series tough enough to handle recoil.  

I've since switched all my lights to Elzetta Bones

It's just the way they design it. It's not a structural weak point so much as it is a cheap or expedient way of designing it that allows for flicker, but it's not going to die because of it. Just be annoying. The Rail Mount series is a great example of "you get what you pay for". $100 is a decent amount, and you get a decent light, but it's not outstanding except for the cost.