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Page AR-15 » Lights and Lasers
AR Sponsor: bravocompany
Posted: 1/23/2016 5:58:49 PM EDT
I made threads before and I understand the concept. I am trying to find the best range to zero my dbal a3 for nv. When I zero at 25 yards the laser is high going out further and very high at 100 yards. That made me lower the laser so at close distances it is really low compared to what it was and it is bascially at the top of the chevron on my acog at 100 yards. I drew a picture to explain. This is t the right way to people who use the special targets for a 50 yard zero.  I did this to be able to hit larger targets close and to not have a huge hold under at 100.

The dbal sits 4.5 cm high and 2.1 cm right to my barrel.  

I had it zeroed at 50 where the poi for the laser was 4.5 up and 2.1 right (cm). Now it's low. Anyone else do the same?






Link Posted: 1/23/2016 10:06:09 PM EDT
[#1]
If you have an A3, you have it really easy. Do you have a day optic with a 100 or 200 yard zero?

Point day optic at target 100 yards away. Adjust laser to POA. Done.

Zeroing at closer ranges should only be done to get you close for a confirmation zero at distance. The A3 eliminates that because you can simply adjust the visible laser to your day optic where the POI is at a given distance and call it a day. Additionally the further out you zero the less horizontal dispersion you will have due to the laser offset.
Link Posted: 1/24/2016 2:39:53 PM EDT
[#2]
I zero my lasers so they run parallel to my optic.  Hold overs are always the same as my day optic that way, less the difference in laser offset.

I measure how far away my doide is from the center of the optic, both left and right.

So......if my diode is 26mm to the right of the center of my T-1, and 20 mm below it, I aim my rifle at an object 50m away.  I adjust my laser so that it is 26mm to the right of that point, and 20mm below it.

If you do it right, you can now take it out to 100m, and it will miraculously be 26mm to the right, and 20mm below.

So, aside from that 26/20 offset, my holds are always the same at ANY distance.

Clear as mud?
Link Posted: 1/24/2016 4:10:42 PM EDT
[#3]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I zero my lasers so they run parallel to my optic.  Hold overs are always the same as my day optic that way, less the difference in laser offset.

I measure how far away my doide is from the center of the optic, both left and right.

So......if my diode is 26mm to the right of the center of my T-1, and 20 mm below it, I aim my rifle at an object 50m away.  I adjust my laser so that it is 26mm to the right of that point, and 20mm below it.

If you do it right, you can now take it out to 100m, and it will miraculously be 26mm to the right, and 20mm below.

So, aside from that 26/20 offset, my holds are always the same at ANY distance.

Clear as mud?
View Quote

Link Posted: 1/24/2016 5:19:16 PM EDT
[#4]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I zero my lasers so they run parallel to my optic.  Hold overs are always the same as my day optic that way, less the difference in laser offset.

I measure how far away my doide is from the center of the optic, both left and right.

So......if my diode is 26mm to the right of the center of my T-1, and 20 mm below it, I aim my rifle at an object 50m away.  I adjust my laser so that it is 26mm to the right of that point, and 20mm below it.

If you do it right, you can now take it out to 100m, and it will miraculously be 26mm to the right, and 20mm below.

So, aside from that 26/20 offset, my holds are always the same at ANY distance.

Clear as mud?
View Quote



We're saying the same thing. At 25m I am at the tip of the lollipop plus offset to the right. At 100 I am at the tip of the chevron plus offset right which is small bc of the distance. But at something further like 300, the laser is super high on the optic. Effective range isn't much past 100 w lasers and nv so it's not a big deal but I don't get it. And I lowered it 6 clicks at 25m.
Link Posted: 1/24/2016 8:40:41 PM EDT
[#5]
Nevermind.
Link Posted: 1/24/2016 10:30:35 PM EDT
[#6]
Nobody wants the simple answer, Peekaboo.
Link Posted: 1/25/2016 12:38:32 AM EDT
[#7]
If the visible laser is not vertically in line with the bore then there will only be one intersection point where laser meets path of bullet as you adjust for windage.  Your elevation should remain constant at any distance.

Should be able to adjust windage without effecting elevation.

Link Posted: 1/25/2016 12:31:57 PM EDT
[#8]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
If the visible laser is not vertically in line with the bore then there will only be one intersection point where laser meets path of bullet as you adjust for windage.  Your elevation should remain constant at any distance.

Should be able to adjust windage without effecting elevation.

View Quote



Windage is good.  Its always offset by the amount of the laser/bore.

Elevation isn't constant at any distance because of bullet drop and hold overs.  So I am trying to find the right "range" to set it at.  NV shooting or laser is 150 yard MAX and more like <75 yard effective.  So if I am 2" lower than I should be at 10 yards, that's ok.  The target is bigger at 10 than 75.  I am just trying to find the happy medium.  I was zeroing at 25 yards with the laser POA being the same offset as it is at the barrel.  But I started tinkering.
Link Posted: 1/25/2016 3:21:16 PM EDT
[#9]
Your question was answered in my first reply.

Zero it at the distance you plan on using it and anything closer will be within margin of error for NV.

For example, if you zero the laser at 200 yards you will be <5" off elevation from 0-200 both above and below the target.  I use a 100m zero so that I know my POI is always going to be 2" below the dot from the muzzle to around 180 yards and the hold over increases with distance. This really isn't voodoo witchcraft requiring elaborate drawings and long winded posts on a forum unless you want it to be.

Zeroing at 25 yards should only be done to get you on paper for a confirmation zero at real distances. doing a "26mm this and 20mm that" is great theoretical jargon but in actual practice your dot is going to be too big to make a 20mm adjustment at 200m anyway.

Quoted:
Nobody wants the simple answer, Peekaboo.
View Quote


No kidding. Why help people when they don't want it?
Link Posted: 1/26/2016 12:29:38 AM EDT
[#10]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:



Windage is good.  Its always offset by the amount of the laser/bore.

Elevation isn't constant at any distance because of bullet drop and hold overs.  So I am trying to find the right "range" to set it at.  NV shooting or laser is 150 yard MAX and more like <75 yard effective.  So if I am 2" lower than I should be at 10 yards, that's ok.  The target is bigger at 10 than 75.  I am just trying to find the happy medium.  I was zeroing at 25 yards with the laser POA being the same offset as it is at the barrel.  But I started tinkering.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
If the visible laser is not vertically in line with the bore then there will only be one intersection point where laser meets path of bullet as you adjust for windage.  Your elevation should remain constant at any distance.

Should be able to adjust windage without effecting elevation.




Windage is good.  Its always offset by the amount of the laser/bore.

Elevation isn't constant at any distance because of bullet drop and hold overs.  So I am trying to find the right "range" to set it at.  NV shooting or laser is 150 yard MAX and more like <75 yard effective.  So if I am 2" lower than I should be at 10 yards, that's ok.  The target is bigger at 10 than 75.  I am just trying to find the happy medium.  I was zeroing at 25 yards with the laser POA being the same offset as it is at the barrel.  But I started tinkering.


I meant the elevation of the laser beam is constant...not referring to bullet drop.
Page AR-15 » Lights and Lasers
AR Sponsor: bravocompany
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