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Posted: 7/24/2016 5:56:51 PM EDT
[#1]
I prefer Brown or Silver Bear if I'm going to shoot steel.
Wolf is not a manufacturer, it's a importer/brand. Wolf used to be Tula. Not sure who it is now. |
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Posted: 7/24/2016 6:56:19 PM EDT
[#2]
Everything steel labeled wolf has always done well in my ARs. Some lowers with lighter hammer springs don't like the primers, causing FTFs, but that's been my only rare problem.
Silver and brown bear get stuck in the chambers after about a mag. Stuck enough to require a cleaning rod and disassembly. Accuracy wise, both are about the same. In order of my preference: Wolf, herters, colored bear. |
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Posted: 7/24/2016 7:00:03 PM EDT
[#3]
Is there any difference from the different wolf labels? Poly performance vs military classic?
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Posted: 7/24/2016 7:05:17 PM EDT
[#4]
Yes, the newer Wolf is made by Barnaul which is better than the old maker, Tula (TCW). Tula and Barnaul also sell their ammo under their own brands.
Herters at Cabelas is Tula. I've shot cases of all of them they work well enough for me. I think the polyformance is Barnaul but not 100% on that. |
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Posted: 7/24/2016 7:21:39 PM EDT
[#5]
Jeeeeez.
The OP is simply wanting to know if there is any difference between the Wolf Performance, Poly Performance and military classic. Sorry, Doc, but I do not know the answer to that. |
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Posted: 7/24/2016 8:04:53 PM EDT
[#6]
OP, the various different Wolf labels are made by different plants by different companies, but they should be made to pretty much the same standards.
Hope that helps. |
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Posted: 7/25/2016 12:53:19 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Silver and brown bear get stuck in the chambers after about a mag. Stuck enough to require a cleaning rod and disassembly. Guess it depends on rifle/chamber/barrel? I go 500 to 1000 rounds between cleanings with Brown and Silver bear with no issues. I did have some early FTF issues but quickly fixed that when I discovered my hammer spring was weak and replaced with new. |
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Posted: 7/25/2016 9:31:45 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Yes, the newer Wolf is made by Barnaul which is better than the old maker, Tula (TCW). Tula and Barnaul also sell their ammo under their own brands. Is there a way to tell the difference between Wolf by Barnaul and Wolf by Tula just by looking at the rounds (or pulling the bullets)? If so, how? HighSpeedSteel |
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Posted: 7/25/2016 9:48:26 AM EDT
[#9]
The prices of 556/223 cases are so relatively close now, that it almost doesnt make sense to buy and shoot steel.
-$230/k steel vs $330-350 bulk brass. -much fewer problems cycling -better accuracy -can use at indoor ranges -less likley to set the desert on fire with bi-trans-metal bullets -you can resell your brass for 3-5cents each to reloaders in EE. |
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Posted: 7/25/2016 10:09:36 AM EDT
[#10]
Quoted:
Can somebody tell me if there is a difference between regular wolf performance ammo, military classic, and the poly performance? Seem to be roughly the same price where I am looking but I don't know if 1 is better than the other. I have never had wolf before mainly shoot brass but I have shot plenty of Walmart Tula and Herters from cabelas. But I hear if you are going to shoot steel case, wolf is the best option. Anyone have some insight? From Wolf's own website: http://www.wolfammo.com/steel-casing.html Military classic and polyformance look like they are loaded hotter than regular wolf, and are made in Russia as opposed to Ukraine. |
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Posted: 7/25/2016 12:45:27 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Is there a way to tell the difference between Wolf by Barnaul and Wolf by Tula just by looking at the rounds (or pulling the bullets)? If so, how? HighSpeedSteel Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Yes, the newer Wolf is made by Barnaul which is better than the old maker, Tula (TCW). Tula and Barnaul also sell their ammo under their own brands. Is there a way to tell the difference between Wolf by Barnaul and Wolf by Tula just by looking at the rounds (or pulling the bullets)? If so, how? HighSpeedSteel Not that I know of. Far as I know Wolf uses cases with their head stamp regardless of manufacturer, unlike for instance Herters brand which inside the box is still Tula headstamps. SGammo usually lists who made each lot of wolf steel case. http://www.sgammo.com/product/223-556mm-ammo/500-round-case-223-rem-55-grain-hollow-point-wolf-wpa-steel-case-ammo-made-ba |
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Posted: 7/25/2016 5:37:40 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Guess it depends on rifle/chamber/barrel? I go 500 to 1000 rounds between cleanings with Brown and Silver bear with no issues. I did have some early FTF issues but quickly fixed that when I discovered my hammer spring was weak and replaced with new. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Silver and brown bear get stuck in the chambers after about a mag. Stuck enough to require a cleaning rod and disassembly. Guess it depends on rifle/chamber/barrel? I go 500 to 1000 rounds between cleanings with Brown and Silver bear with no issues. I did have some early FTF issues but quickly fixed that when I discovered my hammer spring was weak and replaced with new. It also depends on how (or IF) you clean your barrel. Steel doesn't seal the chamber as well as brass, so gunk can build up. That can cause cases to stick. So keeping your chamber really clean will prevent sticking almost all of the time. |
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Posted: 7/25/2016 8:24:35 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The prices of 556/223 cases are so relatively close now, that it almost doesnt make sense to buy and shoot steel. -$230/k steel vs $330-350 bulk brass. -much fewer problems cycling -better accuracy -can use at indoor ranges -less likley to set the desert on fire with bi-trans-metal bullets -you can resell your brass for 3-5cents each to reloaders in EE. Funny you say that. We started a fire on Sunday from shooting Wolf. We were shooting rifle steel plates, then moved over to pistol. It took the fire about 5 mins before it started turning to smoke. It was about 1ft by 1ft. this was Houston in the blazing heat. Definitely wait around after shooting to make sure fires don't start. That being said, I still choose steel cased over brass cased. I have not had issues at all in the thousands of rounds I have shot. Accuracy is about 2-3moa which is fine for what I do. I mainly shoot outdoors. I'd rather shoot and not worry about picking up hundreds of casings. If you shoot steel cased, be sure to opt for a strong barrel material like melonited 4150 to help your barrel last. |
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Posted: 7/28/2016 3:09:26 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The prices of 556/223 cases are so relatively close now, that it almost doesnt make sense to buy and shoot steel. -$230/k steel vs $330-350 bulk brass. -much fewer problems cycling -better accuracy -can use at indoor ranges -less likley to set the desert on fire with bi-trans-metal bullets -you can resell your brass for 3-5cents each to reloaders in EE. All I can say is that I don't consider a 50% price bump from steel to brass to be 'relatively close'. I buy steel and brass. Each range trip I shoot steel until I start having the same problem as the OP, and then switch to brass. |
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Posted: 7/28/2016 4:18:22 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The prices of 556/223 cases are so relatively close now, that it almost doesnt make sense to buy and shoot steel. -$230/k steel vs $330-350 bulk brass. if100/k is no big deal you don't shoot enough -much fewer problems cycling wrong -better accuracy reload so n/a -can use at indoor ranges no care -less likley to set the desert on fire with bi-trans-metal bullets no care -you can resell your brass for 3-5cents each to reloaders in EE. waste time picking up brass relatively close= 30-50% 
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Posted: 7/28/2016 4:21:08 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
All I can say is that I don't consider a 50% price bump from steel to brass to be 'relatively close'. I buy steel and brass. Each range trip I shoot steel until I start having the same problem as the OP, and then switch to brass. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
The prices of 556/223 cases are so relatively close now, that it almost doesnt make sense to buy and shoot steel. -$230/k steel vs $330-350 bulk brass. -much fewer problems cycling -better accuracy -can use at indoor ranges -less likley to set the desert on fire with bi-trans-metal bullets -you can resell your brass for 3-5cents each to reloaders in EE. All I can say is that I don't consider a 50% price bump from steel to brass to be 'relatively close'. I buy steel and brass. Each range trip I shoot steel until I start having the same problem as the OP, and then switch to brass. That's fine. For the costs associated with time off, gas, and range fees, that $.10 per shot difference is small fries for the benefits of what I highlighted above in red. |
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Posted: 7/28/2016 4:31:52 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
relatively close= 30-50% If none of those limitations apply to you then why did you even respond? |
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