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Posted: 2/24/2017 4:52:22 AM EDT
Hi everybody!
I just came to the range testing my new 9mm assembled upper,it worked well with 124gn handloads wich i use on my cz to minor P.F so no hot stuff at all (modified by myself uzi mag). I have had 0 issues out of like 100 rounds but brasses came out "burned" because,i think,the action opening before the powder finishes to burn...i used my standard H3 buffer and spring wich came in PWS lower of my 223 rifle(i'm going to use the same lower for both 9mm and 223) and i read about this problem on the web...unfortunately i don't live in the land of freedom and here is very difficult to find one longer and heavier 9mm specific buffer so i'm thinking to take a proper diameter steel round bar,cut to length and add it before the buffer,NOT at the end of the buffer tube like the spikes tactical spacer i saw on the web... I thought that in this way i will add both lenght and weight to my standard carbine buffer and it's easy take it out when using the 223 upper. What do you think about that?Can i damage the lower this way? Thanks! 
EDIT: can i also take a rifle lenght buffer and eventually cut it to proper length needed for 9mm?Or again is it better to leave the original buffer,put on a stiffer spring and a spacer like the spike's tactical? |
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Posted: 2/24/2017 7:36:43 AM EDT
[#1]
Why exactly can't you order a 9mm buffer and have it shipped to a communist state? It's not a weapon or a high cap magazine.
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Posted: 2/24/2017 8:55:17 AM EDT
[#2]
http://heavybuffers.com/9q.html
I use the 8.5 oz buffer in my 9mm SBR AR and it slowed the bolt down to the perfect speed. If I remember correctly the owner is an ARFcomer. |
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Posted: 2/24/2017 9:19:31 AM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Why exactly can't you order a 9mm buffer and have it shipped to a communist state? It's not a weapon or a high cap magazine. ITAR perhaps. |
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Posted: 2/24/2017 10:01:54 AM EDT
[#4]
Quoted:unfortunately i don't live in the land of freedom and here is very difficult to find one longer and heavier 9mm specific buffer so i'm thinking to take a proper diameter steel round bar,cut to length and add it before the buffer,NOT at the end of the buffer tube like the spikes tactical spacer i saw on the web... Would you weld/silver solder it to the buffer? The only thing that jumps out at me is that it might somehow interfere with the operation of the bolt through the buffer tube, but i'm not 100% sure it would. Do you know anyone that has access to a lathe? You could always have an extended buffer made for you out of turned down out of steel round stock, with a pocket at the end for the delrin plastic "bumper." Or, what about making an extension for the bumper out of steel round stock, and having the extension and buffer threaded for a length of threaded rod. You could Lock Tite that in place. Just brainstorming. Let us know what happens. |
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Posted: 2/24/2017 10:05:30 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Why exactly can't you order a 9mm buffer and have it shipped to a communist state? It's not a weapon or a high cap magazine. |
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Posted: 2/24/2017 10:53:31 AM EDT
[#6]
Burned brass is normal. Add a short plastic spacer and call it good.
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Posted: 2/24/2017 12:32:38 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Why exactly can't you order a 9mm buffer and have it shipped to a communist state? It's not a weapon or a high cap magazine. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Why exactly can't you order a 9mm buffer and have it shipped to a communist state? It's not a weapon or a high cap magazine. I could not find any shop there in the US wich ship this item outside...also it may require something like 40 bucks for the shipping. What communist state?I'm italian 
Quoted:
Would you weld/silver solder it to the buffer? The only thing that jumps out at me is that it might somehow interfere with the operation of the bolt through the buffer tube, but i'm not 100% sure it would. Do you know anyone that has access to a lathe? You could always have an extended buffer made for you out of turned down out of steel round stock, with a pocket at the end for the delrin plastic "bumper." Or, what about making an extension for the bumper out of steel round stock, and having the extension and buffer threaded for a length of threaded rod. You could Lock Tite that in place. Just brainstorming. Let us know what happens. No, i tought to leave it separated,not welded and i thought it wasn't a problem but correct me if i'm wrong.Maybe i can find someone with a lathe but i think the buffer will not weight enought since the tungsten is heavier than steel,plus it wouldn't have any moving buffer weights to prevent bolt bouncing when closeing,isn't it a problem? Thanks for reply. |
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Posted: 2/24/2017 12:36:04 PM EDT
[#8]
I read in many posts that when brasses come out like that there is an anticipated opening of the bolt,plus when i shoot i occasionally have had some flames out of the chamber...
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Posted: 2/24/2017 12:53:35 PM EDT
[#9]
What powder? Try a different powder with a different burn rate.
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Posted: 2/24/2017 12:58:03 PM EDT
[#10]
I assume you have a collapsible carbine stock w/ the standard short buffer tube, rather than a long fixed stock? |
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Posted: 2/24/2017 1:05:31 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
http://i.imgur.com/To82jkX.jpg OP, your proposed solution isn't going to work unless you put a longer buffer tube on your rifle. If your 9x19mm bolt has a hollow space in the rear, you could fill that w/ steel, lead, brass, or tungsten. I assume you have a collapsible carbine stock w/ the standard short buffer tube, rather than a long fixed stock? |
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Posted: 2/24/2017 2:12:59 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Why would it not work? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
http://i.imgur.com/To82jkX.jpg OP, your proposed solution isn't going to work unless you put a longer buffer tube on your rifle. If your 9x19mm bolt has a hollow space in the rear, you could fill that w/ steel, lead, brass, or tungsten. I assume you have a collapsible carbine stock w/ the standard short buffer tube, rather than a long fixed stock? Why would it not work? |
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Posted: 2/24/2017 2:20:35 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
He's gonna run out of room in the buffer tube, unless he goes to a rifle length tube, if I read his proposal right. OP, stack some coins that are about the right diameter in front of your buffer until your bolt goes back just past far enough to lock back. Measure the height of the stack of coins, that's how long your spacer needs to be. And I'd recommend bronze or tungsten if you can find it. File a couple flats on the sides to match the buffer. |
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Posted: 2/24/2017 2:21:21 PM EDT
[#14]
Josh, you're right. OP, I was wrong.
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Posted: 2/24/2017 6:30:47 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
http://i.imgur.com/To82jkX.jpg I assume you have a collapsible carbine stock w/ the standard short buffer tube, rather than a long fixed stock? Quote HistoryQuoted:
http://i.imgur.com/To82jkX.jpg I assume you have a collapsible carbine stock w/ the standard short buffer tube, rather than a long fixed stock? No space in the rear of the bolt,it's already filled by construction,yes i have a carbine stock and H2 buffer Quoted:
Nah, he's got room. Not much, but a 1" bronze round half an inch long weighs about two ounces. OP, stack some coins that are about the right diameter in front of your buffer until your bolt goes back just past far enough to lock back. Measure the height of the stack of coins, that's how long your spacer needs to be. And I'd recommend bronze or tungsten if you can find it. File a couple flats on the sides to match the buffer. I've just put 7 quarters dollars in the tube because it's all i had at home temporarily, i think it also increase the spring tension,can you confirm?tomorrow i will try it to the range. Could you explain to me the function of those flats in the standard ar buffers?i always asked myself what are for. 
Lastly,today the maker who made me this upper suggested me to leave the standard buffer with a spacer and use one extra power spring they sell...what do you think? Thanks! |
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Posted: 2/24/2017 7:42:37 PM EDT
[#16]
Extra power springs don't do much. To actually delay opening by a significant amount you'd need a spring strong enough to make it near impossible to cock the gun.
The flats let air flow around the buffer as it's moving. Keeps pneumatic pressure from slowing the bolts rearward movement. |
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Posted: 2/24/2017 9:31:19 PM EDT
[#17]
FWIW a 9mm buffer, whether it's carbine or dedicated length, doesn't rattle like a normal H, H2, or H3 buffer. I run a rifle length buffer & tube on one of my 9mm ARs and I just removed the spacer and added two more weights to get it up to 8 oz. and added a rubber washer to eliminate any movement.
I like the idea of cutting down a rifle buffer, if it allows enough room for 4 tungsten weights that should work fine. Or fill it with tungsten powder. |
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Posted: 2/24/2017 9:31:58 PM EDT
[#18]
Just get you a piece of stock and have at it,,
Here a A2 rifle size weighs 12oz, cut from stainless.. use this one in my TASK style M11/9 to slow it way down 
Do similar for CAR buffer, cut to desired length, and cut to desired weight by cutting material from the big slug portion to lose weight |
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Posted: 2/25/2017 12:20:37 AM EDT
[#19]
https://www.brownells.it
How about Brownells Italian website? |
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Posted: 2/25/2017 9:36:33 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Extra power springs don't do much. To actually delay opening by a significant amount you'd need a spring strong enough to make it near impossible to cock the gun. The flats let air flow around the buffer as it's moving. Keeps pneumatic pressure from slowing the bolts rearward movement. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Extra power springs don't do much. To actually delay opening by a significant amount you'd need a spring strong enough to make it near impossible to cock the gun. The flats let air flow around the buffer as it's moving. Keeps pneumatic pressure from slowing the bolts rearward movement. Thanks!I'll keep that in mind if i decide to create my own buffer. Quoted:
FWIW a 9mm buffer, whether it's carbine or dedicated length, doesn't rattle like a normal H, H2, or H3 buffer. I run a rifle length buffer & tube on one of my 9mm ARs and I just removed the spacer and added two more weights to get it up to 8 oz. and added a rubber washer to eliminate any movement. I like the idea of cutting down a rifle buffer, if it allows enough room for 4 tungsten weights that should work fine. Or fill it with tungsten powder. So you are saying that it's good to have no moving parts inside the upper(sorry about my bad english )?
Quoted:
Just get you a piece of stock and have at it,, Here a A2 rifle size weighs 12oz, cut from stainless.. use this one in my TASK style M11/9 to slow it way down Do similar for CAR buffer, cut to desired length, and cut to desired weight by cutting material from the big slug portion to lose weight If i can find someone who can do this it will be probably the best way!Do you know where to find that rubber piece placed on the tip of the buffer?Thanks! |
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Posted: 2/25/2017 9:37:05 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
https://www.brownells.it How about Brownells Italian website? They just have a Colt 9mm and a RRA 9mm buffers in backorder and from what i've read on the web they weight just 5.5 ounces which is not enough i think. In the past i used to buy from brownells usa that has an enormous stock but since the italian site was created they don't ship here anymore... Today i've shot other 60-70 rounds with the 7 quarters installed in the buffer tube but nothing changed about the burned brasses,excluding this problem the upper runs perfectly with 2 homemade uzi magazine,it has only one cons...it's a real ammo eater!
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Posted: 2/25/2017 1:38:57 PM EDT
[#22]
I have heard of people pouring molten lead (Pb) into a standard buffer.
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Posted: 2/25/2017 6:07:54 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thanks!I'll keep that in mind if i decide to create my own buffer. If i can find someone who can do this it will be probably the best way! Do you know where to find that rubber piece placed on the tip of the buffer? Thanks! I stole it off one of them 2.9oz CAR buffer,, end is bored to push fit the bumper, and cross drill for roll pin to retain bumper, same as any other |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 3:04:54 AM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I have heard of people pouring molten lead (Pb) into a standard buffer. Quote HistoryQuoted:
I have heard of people pouring molten lead (Pb) into a standard buffer. Mmm...i think i can do it but since tungsten is heavier than lead i don't think it will be enough. Quoted:
I stole it off one of them 2.9oz CAR buffer,, end is bored to push fit the bumper, and cross drill for roll pin to retain bumper, same as any other Ok,thanks! |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 3:15:47 AM EDT
[#25]
Today,to start doing something with what i have at home i took 12 quarters and placed them on the face of the buffer...so i added something like 2 ounces and properly reduced the space,if it works i will add the piece of brass bar.
EDIT: will be a bronze or copper bar good as well?Thank you. |
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Posted: 2/28/2017 8:34:29 AM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Here is 7oz of A2 rifle buffer via machined brass dowel.. That's beautiful!But if i cut it to proper length for 9mm with carbine buffer i think it will lose a lot of weight. |
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Posted: 2/28/2017 10:47:20 AM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That's beautiful!But if i cut it to proper length for 9mm with carbine buffer i think it will lose a lot of weight. A stock rifle buffer usually has three weights (like a carbine buffer) and a lightweight hollow spacer that's about as long as two steel or tungsten weights. So ditch the spacer, which weighs almost nothing, cut to length then fill up with tungsten buffers. And FWIW tungsten has a greater density than lead or brass, and at $7 a pop it's the cheapest & heaviest metal out there. So if you're trying to load up a cut down A2 buffer that's your best bet. Amazon also sells tungsten powder but I'd rather not have that stuff leak into my rifle. |
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Posted: 2/28/2017 11:19:48 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
And FWIW tungsten has a greater density than lead or brass, and at $7 a pop it's the cheapest & heaviest metal out there. |
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Posted: 3/1/2017 9:02:14 AM EDT
[#30]
Yesterday i went to the range again and tried with about 3 ounces added with about 13 quarters coins to the buffer face but cases still came out "burned"(is this the right word?)...
Since my carbine buffer is about 4.5 ounces+3=7,5ounces,should i build/buy a 10-12 ounces buffer?Btw,a local gun shop offered me a KWP 8 ounces buffer for about 43 euros... |
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Posted: 3/8/2017 3:49:32 AM EDT
[#31]
Hello,
these are the resulting cases with 8oz buffer weight,i found someone with a lathe that can do a heavier buffer and i think i will calculate it to be 10-12 oz. Btw,what kind of bullet do you use in 1:10 twist barrel?I tried at 50m and 124gn(copper plated and colored 0.355) looks like shotgun pattern,with 145gn(colored .355) i had a much better accuracy,something like 3-4 inches groups,i've just ordered some 160gn bullets(copper plated .356) to try out,i expect the best accuracy with it. Thanks. http://imgur.com/a/mVGJS http://imgur.com/a/afGpa http://imgur.com/a/tGIjo |
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Posted: 3/8/2017 9:14:56 AM EDT
[#32]
Depending on your load, 124 grn will be starting out supersonic, and may drop subsonic by 50 m. 147s start out subsonic & stay that way. That may account for your grouping @ 50m. @ 25, the 124s should group fine.
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Posted: 3/8/2017 9:35:20 AM EDT
[#33]
Quoted:
Depending on your load, 124 grn will be starting out supersonic, and may drop subsonic by 50 m. 147s start out subsonic & stay that way. That may account for your grouping @ 50m. @ 25, the 124s should group fine. I usually load with 4gn of fiocchi frex green powder,wich is like N320 in burning speed,to be at minor PF in pistol with 124gn lead/colored with OAL=1.141"...according to the load data this is the minimum load,should i increase?Also at 25m i didn't get groups smaller than 2 inches but it was standing so probably it was the shooter...i also have some FMJ 124gn at home and i'm thinking to try them out...measuring with the caliper they are .353-.354 diameter,is it normal for FMJ? Thanks. |
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Posted: 3/8/2017 10:07:53 AM EDT
[#34]
Maybe your rifle has a preference for .356 or larger sized bullets (mine does). If so you may also want to check your loaded plated bullets. With normal 9mm dies there is a tendency that relatively soft bullets (like plated and lead) get actually crimped by the case. I once pulled the bullets from some reloads and found that the base of the bullets had actually been crimped by the case to about .353. With a somewhat adapted reloading method I can get 123grs LOS plated bullets to group quite nicely
(These are 1" diamonds by the way)
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Posted: 3/8/2017 10:30:22 AM EDT
[#35]
Quoted:
Maybe your rifle has a preference for .356 or larger sized bullets (mine does). If so you may also want to check your loaded plated bullets. With normal 9mm dies there is a tendency that relatively soft bullets (like plated and lead) get actually crimped by the case. I once pulled the bullets from some reloads and found that the base of the bullets had actually been crimped by the case to about .353. With a somewhat adapted reloading method I can get 123grs LOS plated bullets to group quite nicely (These are 1" diamonds by the way)http://i1344.photobucket.com/albums/p653/roegbainder1/20161025_50m_5schoten_zpsvigo4x8z.jpgBeautiful group!I will check for the crimp you are talking about but i'm pretty sure it's not my case!About the bullet diameter preferences i asked to a friend of mine for a .357 lead bullet to push inside the barrel and measure the inside diameter.Also,i always asked myself if it's safe to shoot .357 diameter bullet in 9mm. Thank you! |
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Posted: 3/8/2017 10:54:25 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Hello,
these are the resulting cases with 8oz buffer weight,i found someone with a lathe that can do a heavier buffer and i think i will calculate it to be 10-12 oz. Btw,what kind of bullet do you use in 1:10 twist barrel?I tried at 50m and 124gn(copper plated and colored 0.355) looks like shotgun pattern,with 145gn(colored .355) i had a much better accuracy,something like 3-4 inches groups,i've just ordered some 160gn bullets(copper plated .356) to try out,i expect the best accuracy with it. Thanks. http://imgur.com/a/mVGJS http://imgur.com/a/afGpa http://imgur.com/a/tGIjo 
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Posted: 3/9/2017 1:19:12 AM EDT
[#37]
Looks good (common) to me.
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Posted: 3/9/2017 4:05:44 AM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Looks good (common) to me. Ok,probably it was just me...in pistols i have never seen discolored cases
I slugged the barrel with a .357WC lead bullet and,measuring with the caliper,the bore seems to be .356 so i think i'll go for .356 bullets,i've also tested my CZ SP01 Shadow barrel and it's .356 bore also,the only difference is that groves on the 9mm upper seems to be thicker than the CZ. |
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Posted: 3/9/2017 4:15:59 AM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Looks good (common) to me. Ok,probably it was just me...in pistols i have never seen discolored cases
I slugged the barrel with a .357WC lead bullet and,measuring with the caliper,the bore seems to be .356 so i think i'll go for .356 bullets,i've also tested my CZ SP01 Shadow barrel and it's .356 bore also,the only difference is that groves on the 9mm upper seems to be thicker than the CZ. |
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Posted: 3/10/2017 6:46:16 AM EDT
[#40]
If you have the chance you might want to try a different powder for reloading. Mine has a clear preference for slow powder (e.g. vectan SP2 or 3N38). Never could get faster powder loads to group well (at least not well enough for my taste
)
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Posted: 3/10/2017 10:36:40 AM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If you have the chance you might want to try a different powder for reloading. Mine has a clear preference for slow powder (e.g. vectan SP2 or 3N38). Never could get faster powder loads to group well (at least not well enough for my taste )Can i ask you what brand is your barrel?Mine is a Faxon. Thanks. |
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Posted: 3/10/2017 11:14:14 AM EDT
[#42]
Frankly I have no idea
 . It's part of a complete Sabre Defence upper and I think they made their own barrels but I'm not sure about that.
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