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Page AR-15 » Rimfire and Pistol Calibers
AR Sponsor: bravocompany
Posted: 9/27/2016 3:43:32 PM EDT
I have been in contact with QC10 and they are very helpful.   I'm asking here for more ideas.    

I'd really like the LRBHO to work and I'm willing to put effort into making it work.  I don't want to abandon LRBHO without trying.  

I have a DDLES lower with the upgraded kit from QC10.  I have installed it correctly, QC10 verified that over the phone.   This is a Glock style lower.  

I am using a JP bolt (gen 2) and their silent spring (gen 1) .  These are the only components that I have changed.  

With an empty magazine the bolt locks back 100% of the time, when charged.  
When firing, and holding the bolt hold, it locks back 100% of the time.

I've tried it with no quarters in the buffer tube and with one quarter.  I can't get 2 quarters in there.

The barrel is a Faxon 10.5 inch barrel.   I have a tri lug adapter on it, but I don't shoot it suppressed.  Just have the option.  

No issues with feeding or extracting.  It's very accurate.  A joy to shoot.  

I have not tried Wolff springs in my magazines.   Mainly because I can not find 33 round Wolff springs.  


Link Posted: 9/27/2016 4:01:12 PM EDT
[#1]
Maybe try a weaker spring on the bolt holt open lever, since it works when you are holding it?
Link Posted: 9/27/2016 7:46:39 PM EDT
[#2]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Maybe try a weaker spring on the bolt holt open lever, since it works when you are holding it?
View Quote


I'm using the updated QC10 spring.  I think toilet paper has more spring.  
Link Posted: 9/27/2016 10:41:43 PM EDT
[#3]
Link Posted: 9/27/2016 11:31:44 PM EDT
[#4]
I have a qc10 lower that only holds open on ETS mags which is kind of a crap out as I have many glock Oem mags.  Qc10 sent me a new spring for the bolt catch and has been fairly helpful, but I've pretty much given up until I decide to make the 2 hour trek south and let them mess with it themselves.
Link Posted: 9/28/2016 12:54:28 PM EDT
[#5]
Thanks.  

I absolutely will get pictures up.  

I am using all OEM Glock magazines.   I bought a 3 pack of Wolff enhanced springs and I'll get them installed soon.  The springs are for the standard capacity Glock 17 magazines.  Not the 33 round magazines.
Link Posted: 9/28/2016 11:08:16 PM EDT
[#6]





Link Posted: 9/29/2016 12:08:29 AM EDT
[#7]
Has anyone tried an NFA upper on the QC 10 lower yet?  The NFA LRBHO route through the upper seems more robust.
Link Posted: 9/29/2016 9:20:00 AM EDT
[#8]
looks like a lot of lever arm that needs to be moved by the spring force on the magazine follower... if you remove the follower and insert a mag body, does the tab that contacts the follower contact the mag body itself... that is, does the tab move through the maximum distance it can when the follower is contacted?  if not, can it be adjusted to do so without a lot of problem?
Link Posted: 9/29/2016 1:23:17 PM EDT
[#9]
I haven't put in an empty mag body yet to test that.

If an empty mag is in and the bolt hold open arm is "up" and pressure will drop the arm and it won't spring back.  All my mags are OEM Glock.
Link Posted: 9/30/2016 7:01:03 AM EDT
[#10]
That bolt catch has a terrible mechanical disadvantage to overcome the bolt lock spring.  I would remove my bolt latch polish it smooth and fit it for snag free operation and then clip a couple of coils off the bolt lock spring.
Link Posted: 9/30/2016 8:29:53 PM EDT
[#11]
Link Posted: 10/1/2016 5:24:18 AM EDT
[#12]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


They supply a significantly weaker spring for the bolt catch.....

Have you tried bending the flat portion of the actuator up? I had to do that on several of the ones I have. Just stretching the mag spring can get it to work in many instances. I have some el cheapo Korean mags that lock bak and run in a subgun great....
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Quoted:
Quoted:
That bolt catch has a terrible mechanical disadvantage to overcome the bolt lock spring.  I would remove my bolt latch polish it smooth and fit it for snag free operation and then clip a couple of coils off the bolt lock spring.


They supply a significantly weaker spring for the bolt catch.....

Have you tried bending the flat portion of the actuator up? I had to do that on several of the ones I have. Just stretching the mag spring can get it to work in many instances. I have some el cheapo Korean mags that lock bak and run in a subgun great....


I haven't tried anything yet.  Ask first before fucking it up!

I have new Wolff springs for my 17 mags.  I'll try them.
I'll stretch out the 33 round mag springs.  As opposed to buying Wolff springs.  
A slight bend in the flat portion of the actuator?   I'm thinking that's the long portion.  The part of the bar that does NOT interact with the mag or the bolt catch.  Correct?
Link Posted: 10/2/2016 12:27:43 PM EDT
[#13]


Greetings,

I couldn't be sure from your photos, but please check this: There is a tiny washer that needs to go to the outside of the hold open lever; ie; between the lever and the inner lower receiver. It looks like you may have it on the other side of the lever. Also not sure if this can cause you problems or not, but give it a check. I was able to get my (same) lower LRBHO working perfectly when using the updated parts set. Good luck!

PS..........let me know if that makes sense; if not, I can try to get a photo of my lower showing the washer.
Regards, Jim
Link Posted: 10/2/2016 4:34:15 PM EDT
[#14]
Link Posted: 10/2/2016 6:03:05 PM EDT
[#15]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


No...I bend the portion that slips under the mag catch up slightly.

Just noticed the JP spring and bolt....due to the significantly lower weight of the JP bolt, I believe the compensate with a more robust spring rate......while it works on a standard Colt 9mm set up...the QC10 Glock hold open being as sensitive as it is.... the increased bolt velocity caused by the lighter bolt and heavier spring could be just outrunning the QC10 catch. If you have a standard 9mm bolt ....or about an 8 ounce buffer and standard carbine spring you can run with the JP bolt, give it a try........can't hurt.
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
That bolt catch has a terrible mechanical disadvantage to overcome the bolt lock spring.  I would remove my bolt latch polish it smooth and fit it for snag free operation and then clip a couple of coils off the bolt lock spring.


They supply a significantly weaker spring for the bolt catch.....

Have you tried bending the flat portion of the actuator up? I had to do that on several of the ones I have. Just stretching the mag spring can get it to work in many instances. I have some el cheapo Korean mags that lock bak and run in a subgun great....


I haven't tried anything yet.  Ask first before fucking it up!

I have new Wolff springs for my 17 mags.  I'll try them.
I'll stretch out the 33 round mag springs.  As opposed to buying Wolff springs.  
A slight bend in the flat portion of the actuator?   I'm thinking that's the long portion.  The part of the bar that does NOT interact with the mag or the bolt catch.  Correct?


No...I bend the portion that slips under the mag catch up slightly.

Just noticed the JP spring and bolt....due to the significantly lower weight of the JP bolt, I believe the compensate with a more robust spring rate......while it works on a standard Colt 9mm set up...the QC10 Glock hold open being as sensitive as it is.... the increased bolt velocity caused by the lighter bolt and heavier spring could be just outrunning the QC10 catch. If you have a standard 9mm bolt ....or about an 8 ounce buffer and standard carbine spring you can run with the JP bolt, give it a try........can't hurt.


Thanks.  If thats the case then I'll just replace the JP bolt and spring.  I really like the spring part of the equation, once that is gone, then the bolt means nothing to me.

So before I do that, think I should go with a stronger bolt catch spring?
Link Posted: 10/3/2016 12:06:01 PM EDT
[#16]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I have a qc10 lower that only holds open on ETS mags which is kind of a crap out as I have many glock Oem mags.  Qc10 sent me a new spring for the bolt catch and has been fairly helpful, but I've pretty much given up until I decide to make the 2 hour trek south and let them mess with it themselves.
View Quote


My QC10 glock lower LRBO wouldnt work with any of my factory glock mags...........I bought 4 new glock 17 magazines.........and 3 of them work perfectly, I then replaced the springs in  3 magazines i had with Wolf extra power magazine springs.........and they all work too................
Link Posted: 10/3/2016 4:12:32 PM EDT
[#17]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Greetings,

I couldn't be sure from your photos, but please check this: There is a tiny washer that needs to go to the outside of the hold open lever; ie; between the lever and the inner lower receiver. It looks like you may have it on the other side of the lever. Also not sure if this can cause you problems or not, but give it a check. I was able to get my (same) lower LRBHO working perfectly when using the updated parts set. Good luck!

PS..........let me know if that makes sense; if not, I can try to get a photo of my lower showing the washer.
Regards, Jim
View Quote


Thanks.  That was one of the original trouble shooting questions from QC10.   Its properly installed.
Link Posted: 10/5/2016 2:21:44 PM EDT
[#18]
I run the Wolff springs in my glock and korean mags, lrbho works everytime.
Link Posted: 10/7/2016 9:33:38 PM EDT
[#19]
Link Posted: 10/11/2016 7:32:20 PM EDT
[#20]
I took the JP components out of the Glock lower and put them in my Colt lower.  

The Colt runs perfect and now the Glock runs perfect.

The JP system (bolt and silent spring) was not good for this Glock style lower, DDLES flavor.  Thats the final.

Thanks for the help.
Link Posted: 10/11/2016 7:54:12 PM EDT
[#21]


Greetings,

Congrats on finding a solution. Curious; what where the specific components that came out of the Colt that are now in the Glock?

Regards, Jim


Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I took the JP components out of the Glock lower and put them in my Colt lower.  

The Colt runs perfect and now the Glock runs perfect.

The JP system (bolt and silent spring) was not good for this Glock style lower, DDLES flavor.  Thats the final.

Thanks for the help.
View Quote

Link Posted: 10/11/2016 8:57:06 PM EDT
[#22]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Greetings,

Congrats on finding a solution. Curious; what where the specific components that came out of the Colt that are now in the Glock?

Regards, Jim



View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Greetings,

Congrats on finding a solution. Curious; what where the specific components that came out of the Colt that are now in the Glock?

Regards, Jim


Quoted:
I took the JP components out of the Glock lower and put them in my Colt lower.  

The Colt runs perfect and now the Glock runs perfect.

The JP system (bolt and silent spring) was not good for this Glock style lower, DDLES flavor.  Thats the final.

Thanks for the help.



Jim, specifically:

1.  The JP silent spring in 9mm (first gen)
2.  JP 9mm bolt (second gen)
3.  buffer detent and spring (technically I used a new detent and spring).

The JP silent spring doesn't require a detent, so I had to install one in the Glock pattern lower so it would accept a traditional buffer and spring.  The detent doesn't really hurt anything, just makes it a royal PITA to remove the silent spring.

The JP bolt / spring combination is so smooth.  Too bad it didn't work out in this build.

Edit:  The Sprinco Red spring and Spikes 9mm buffer are in the Glock now.
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