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Posted: 2/1/2015 1:45:36 AM EDT
[#1]
Quoted:
I have a CMMG bolt installed in a .22 dedicated AR and the bolt pulls back and seems to lock back, not returning forward. I tried using the bolt catch but it doesn't seem to do anything. Any ideas on what I'm doing wrong? How new is it? Was it just assembled? I have had this happen before. In my case it was some interference between parts. It took some minor adjustments (with a file) to get everything back where it should be. What have you looked at so far? Did you open up the action and see if the problem was the bolt dragging on the hammer or on some other part. If you remove the bolt and rails do they work freely when out of the upper. Have you tried another charging handle. (had one of those sticking up he action on one rifle) Lots of little things, but you might want to provide more details and a list of what you have tried so far. Good luck with it...been there, done that myself. |
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Posted: 2/1/2015 3:17:07 AM EDT
[#2]
Ok, let me say this after playing with it a little more.
The bolt does work as normal when using the charging handle unless I pull the charging handle too far back and THEN it gets stuck. Do I just have to baby it so this doesnt happen? I'd really prefer for it to not need to be babied and can pull back the charging handle with no worries. |
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Posted: 2/1/2015 9:43:24 AM EDT
[#3]
Are you using a notched hammer, rimfire bolts can hang up on the hammer. You might be able to see wear marks directly below the firing pin on the rear bottom of the rimfire bolt. The rails the bolt slides on might be out of allignment, either bent or a poor weld job at the rear of the conversion which butts up next to the buffer. Do you see any place the conversion is contacting the inside of the upper receiver? Does the charging handle have any clearance issues with the top of the bolt where they mate?
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Posted: 2/2/2015 12:42:27 AM EDT
[#4]
Pull your bolt out next time it locks up and look at the guide rod and spring on the top. Get a photo if possible.
MAHA |
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Posted: 2/3/2015 12:13:07 AM EDT
[#5]
There is a known issue with CMMG and some springs binding up at full compression. Adding a bevel to the back of the spring sleeve on the bolt prevents the fully-compressed spring from getting bound up inside it, or slipping an o-ring onto the guide rod to prevent it from getting all the way back.
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Posted: 2/4/2015 4:33:32 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Are you using a notched hammer, rimfire bolts can hang up on the hammer. You might be able to see wear marks directly below the firing pin on the rear bottom of the rimfire bolt. The rails the bolt slides on might be out of allignment, either bent or a poor weld job at the rear of the conversion which butts up next to the buffer. Do you see any place the conversion is contacting the inside of the upper receiver? Does the charging handle have any clearance issues with the top of the bolt where they mate? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Are you using a notched hammer, rimfire bolts can hang up on the hammer. You might be able to see wear marks directly below the firing pin on the rear bottom of the rimfire bolt. The rails the bolt slides on might be out of allignment, either bent or a poor weld job at the rear of the conversion which butts up next to the buffer. Do you see any place the conversion is contacting the inside of the upper receiver? Does the charging handle have any clearance issues with the top of the bolt where they mate? It is a rounded hammer, NOT a notched one. Quoted:
Pull your bolt out next time it locks up and look at the guide rod and spring on the top. Get a photo if possible. MAHA Once I push out the rear takedown pin and open it up, the bolt seems to release and close correctly. So I can't really get a pic of the bolt when it's stuck open? I did add the Taccom upgraded reliability spring, but it seems to be installed and works properly when the bolt is out of the upper receiver. Quoted:
There is a known issue with CMMG and some springs binding up at full compression. Adding a bevel to the back of the spring sleeve on the bolt prevents the fully-compressed spring from getting bound up inside it, or slipping an o-ring onto the guide rod to prevent it from getting all the way back. I'm honestly lost on this & doubt I would be able to machine anything as I don't have any tools to do the beveling. Any other thoughts or ideas? |
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Posted: 2/4/2015 11:21:37 AM EDT
[#7]
Technically not indented as a fix for you issue, but I wonder if a taccom buffer tube plug that pushes the BCG slightly forward would fix the issue. I've heard the cheap alternative is foam ear plug stuffed between the buffer and BCG for the same effect.
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Posted: 2/4/2015 2:15:02 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Technically not indented as a fix for you issue, but I wonder if a taccom buffer tube plug that pushes the BCG slightly forward would fix the issue. I've heard the cheap alternative is foam ear plug stuffed between the buffer and BCG for the same effect. I have one of those installed also. |
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Posted: 2/5/2015 4:44:22 PM EDT
[#9]
I removed the upper and held the bolt in place and charged the handle multiple times with no issues what so ever.
I think the bolt is being pulled back and getting hung up on the buffer retaining pin and since these CMMG .22 bolts don't seem to have the relieve cut in the bottom like normal bolts do to slide back and forth, it's getting stuck. I have a tacticalsprings.com carbine spring & the Taccom buffer plug, but no actual buffer. - Could this be the issue? If not the buffer, what else could be making the bolt pull back far enough to get caught up like this & what would the fix be? Thanks. |
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Posted: 2/5/2015 6:26:43 PM EDT
[#10]
On my CMMG dedicated upper the rear of the back plate butts up against the top of the lower receiver above the buffer tube when the upper and lower are pinned together. I've heard of conversion bolts to have enough play which can cause a few problems. This is the main purpose of the pressure plug but I haven't used the carbine spring you mentioned. The easiest thing to do is get a buffer, put it ahead of the buffer spring. Then try cycling the bolt with and without the pressure plug, it's possible the pressure plug is not effective without a buffer ahead of the buffer spring. All my lowes and uppers fit snug as do my conversion bolts when assembled.
If the conversion bolt slides freely without binding outside of the rifle then it has to be moving or hitting something when installed. |
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Posted: 2/5/2015 6:29:44 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I have a tacticalsprings.com carbine spring & the Taccom buffer plug, but no actual buffer. - Could this be the issue? That would be my vote. Throw in a cheapo carbine buffer for the space it takes up - doubt your recoil spring is actually doing anything but slopping around loose in there. If you don't have a buffer, you could do the quarters in the tube to add some space and see if that fixes things. Richard |
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Posted: 2/5/2015 7:00:51 PM EDT
[#12]
Don't you think the Taccom pressure plugs acts as the buffer? I figured it would have had enough resistance, but still seems to be depressing too much and getting caught up on the buffer pin.
So I would want to run both the buffer AND the pressure plug together? |
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Posted: 2/5/2015 8:22:08 PM EDT
[#13]
Yes. I've seen guys run 2 Pressure Plugs.
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Posted: 2/5/2015 9:44:12 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Don't you think the Taccom pressure plugs acts as the buffer? No, I thought the Taccom pressure plug works WITH the buffer - but in truth my AR-22 has a stock carbine spring and buffer and no plug, so I'm certainly not an authority. I set mine up that way in part so the lower is a legit .223 as-is with just an upper swap. Richard |
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Posted: 2/6/2015 7:12:55 PM EDT
[#15]
Have you asked CCMG directly or in their section over in the Industry Forum? They try to be helpful and usually are.
Best of luck. |
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Posted: 2/6/2015 9:52:21 PM EDT
[#16]
On one of my 22 AR pistol builds the bolt was dragging on the mag lip. Spray paint the bottom of the bolt, cycle a few times and see where your bolt is dragging.
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Posted: 2/16/2015 6:03:47 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Have you asked CCMG directly or in their section over in the Industry Forum? They try to be helpful and usually are. Best of luck. Still having issues so I posted over on CMMG's website in hopes they can help me get it fixed - dying to shoot this thing! 
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Posted: 2/16/2015 8:01:36 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Still having issues so I posted over on CMMG's website in hopes they can help me get it fixed - dying to shoot this thing! Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Have you asked CCMG directly or in their section over in the Industry Forum? They try to be helpful and usually are. Best of luck. Still having issues so I posted over on CMMG's website in hopes they can help me get it fixed - dying to shoot this thing! Did you ever determine what the bolt was rubbing on? |
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Posted: 2/16/2015 11:26:14 PM EDT
[#19]
the bolt isn't rubbing on anything, the rear part is getting stuck on the buffer retaining pin I think, but I don't understand why.
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Posted: 2/16/2015 11:44:29 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
the bolt isn't rubbing on anything, the rear part is getting stuck on the buffer retaining pin I think, but I don't understand why. Did you put in a buffer to test? |
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Posted: 2/17/2015 12:42:41 AM EDT
[#21]
Yes, still getting caught up on the rear. Maybe I need to run 2 pressure plugs like someone else mentioned they/or a friend did?
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Posted: 2/17/2015 2:44:09 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Yes, still getting caught up on the rear. Maybe I need to run 2 pressure plugs like someone else mentioned they/or a friend did? Or get a new cmmg locking chamber adapter, which will prevent the conversion frame from moving at all. If yours still has the full circle back, it's probably of too old a design to just let you drop on the locking conversion http://www.cmmginc.com/product_p/22ba477.htm, but they sell the complete chamber adapter, too. |
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Posted: 2/17/2015 9:27:29 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Or get a new cmmg locking chamber adapter, which will prevent the conversion frame from moving at all. If yours still has the full circle back, it's probably of too old a design to just let you drop on the locking conversion http://www.cmmginc.com/product_p/22ba477.htm, but they sell the complete chamber adapter, too. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Yes, still getting caught up on the rear. Maybe I need to run 2 pressure plugs like someone else mentioned they/or a friend did? Or get a new cmmg locking chamber adapter, which will prevent the conversion frame from moving at all. If yours still has the full circle back, it's probably of too old a design to just let you drop on the locking conversion http://www.cmmginc.com/product_p/22ba477.htm, but they sell the complete chamber adapter, too. I'm not sure what model I have, how do I tell? I need to look at the rear of the bolt to see the shape? It was purchased within the last year and the bottom part of the bolt carrier has a flat bottom? I have the CMMG barrel & bolt kit, so I'm not sure if I could add that locking conversion to their full kit? |
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Posted: 2/18/2015 12:21:57 AM EDT
[#24]
I might know the issue.......not 100% sure.....
you might be binding up between the head of the recoil rod and inner dia of the recoil rod.....the spring may have worked its way over the head. Pretty easy to see.....check to see if the spring is up against the head of the rod.....or up against the backer plate that welded on the rail. IF that is the case......there is a pretty easy fix!! Tim |
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Posted: 2/18/2015 4:10:03 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'm not sure what model I have, how do I tell? I need to look at the rear of the bolt to see the shape? It was purchased within the last year and the bottom part of the bolt carrier has a flat bottom? I have the CMMG barrel & bolt kit, so I'm not sure if I could add that locking conversion to their full kit? Post pics and we can tell you. If you have a dedicated 22 barrel, then that locking chamber adapter will not apply, and the frame moving shouldn't be an issue. So.... pics. As I mentioned in my very first response to this thread, and TACCOM3G has chimed in, your kit might be binding up on the spring at full counterbattery. So.... pics |
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Posted: 2/18/2015 10:47:28 PM EDT
[#26]
Ok so after more inspection I've realized it was the Better-Mag adapter that seemed to be locking things up.
When I took the upper off the lower and held the bolt in place with my thumb, the bolt would work perfect. I thought it was getting held up on the buffer retainer pin, but it seems to be the Better-Mag because when I removed that the bolt works flawlessly. Well 99% of the time, every once in a while if I pull back hard/far enough I can still get the bolt stuck, but closes easily if I tap the side of the receiver so I bet once I oil the bolt up this won't happen. Thoughts on what exactly the bolt would get locked up on with the Better-Mag? |
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Posted: 2/21/2015 1:04:34 PM EDT
[#27]
Bump
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Posted: 2/24/2015 6:17:24 PM EDT
[#28]
bump
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Posted: 2/24/2015 10:08:57 PM EDT
[#29]
Pics would help. Hard to help you with out seeing what is going on.
MAHA |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 3:25:01 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Ok so after more inspection I've realized it was the Better-Mag adapter that seemed to be locking things up. When I took the upper off the lower and held the bolt in place with my thumb, the bolt would work perfect. I thought it was getting held up on the buffer retainer pin, but it seems to be the Better-Mag because when I removed that the bolt works flawlessly. Well 99% of the time, every once in a while if I pull back hard/far enough I can still get the bolt stuck, but closes easily if I tap the side of the receiver so I bet once I oil the bolt up this won't happen. Thoughts on what exactly the bolt would get locked up on with the Better-Mag? Do you have the bolt hold open feature installed correctly? |
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