Does anyone know where I can get an exploded parts diagram for this?
I just picked one up and I think it's missing some pieces...

I don't know of a diagram, but here's a parts list:

http://22lrconversions.com/ordpg-prts-ar.htm

 

Thanks, I have the parts list already.  I'm surprised there is no exploded diagram easily available.  When I got this, I was told it needed a new firing pin...wanted to compare what I have with the diagram to be sure I don't need anything else.

firing pin, firing pin spring, firing pin retaining pin

Thanks, that seems pretty simple, actually.  Looks like a small roll pin holding it in.
I haven't shot this yet so I don't know if it's extracting properly...  Wondering if I should get an extractor while I'm ordering parts.  (Black Dog sells a kit with both and springs.)  
What should I look for in the extractor as an indicator if it should be replaced too?  
Do the extractors/springs on these wear too?

Extraction may be weak, even with a new kit.

If it is:  http://www.taccom3g.com/EXTREME_EXTRACTOR.html

Or better yet:  http://www.taccom3g.com/22RF_RELIABILITY_KIT.html

I personally would recommend dumping the Ceiner stuff and buy a complete CMMG or even a Taccom bolt assembly. Goodluck

Amen, Brother.....

The Ciener AR-15 22 conversions I've been around typically do a pretty poor job of extracting unfired 22 rimfire cartridges.  When fired the cartridge is pushed out of the chamber after ignition which helps the spent case to be extracted/ejected.  

I guess I'll break the mold, as long as the Ciener works I'd use it.  I have two Parkerized CMMG conversions and a Ciener.  All three run as close to 100% as any rimfire can.  I do keep extra firing pins on hand along with the other parts just in case something fails.   The most common part I've had fail was the Ciener firing pins.

Once I started using RRA NM triggers the firing pins rarely break.  When I'm shooting my AR-15's I can't tell the difference between the Ciener and CMMG bolts as they work the same.

 

I don't advocate tossing Ceiner any business because simply put , he is a absolute dick . His units have some fit and finish problems that usually work themselves out as they are shot and broken in. The CMMG is for all purposes nearly identical .

On most Ceiners I have seen the fireing pin is very roughly finished and I believe this leads to their eventual demise . When installing a new pin polish the thing until it is smooth and slick . When this is done they seem to last much longer. The pin is a relative weak point so anyone with a Atteschen design unit should have a couple in their spare parts pile.

My experience with the conversions has all been with the semi version used on guns without cans . (I believe the full auto versions have some of their own problems and any gun with a can will blow more crud back into the blowback action )

Resist the urge to hose the thing down with oil , I believe this just causes crud to build , I run mostly dry with some silicone or other dry type lube and get great results in general ( other than the present ammo problem)

I'm hearing some bad about John Ciener...I have no experience with him though.  What's the deal with him?  Bad customer support?  Crappy kits?  Is it him personally or his company in general?

I've two of his .22 conversion kits.

An old one, I'm using in a Colt 641 and it has been flawless over many thousands of rounds. And another slightly newer kit that will act up once in a while. I have a new extractor, just have to put it in to make it 100%.

When i got these kits (you know, back before the internet) they were the only game in town if you wanted a FA conversion.

I have personally met and talked to him several times at Knob Creek.

He is a dick.

If you have it, use it. Despite his lack of interpersonalskills, he has made some nice stuff.

 

I'm no fan of John Ciener from all I've heard of him and an effort at communication with his company.

I've got AR conversions from Ciener and CMMG to Spikes, M261, Air Force, DPMS, Colt, original Atchisson. 1911 conversions from Colt, Advantage Arms, Tactical Solutions and a mystery one (Colt markings but Pachmyr design).

The only ones that are breaking are the CMMG SS LH units - poorly welded backing plates.

What we should remember is Ciener popularized the .22 conversion for a wide variety of firearms.

ARs, Mini14s, 1911s, BHPs, Glocks, etc.  

His stuff worked and in the ARs could, with the FA parts, run full auto which none of the other conversions (Colt, M261, Air Force) could.  The original Atchisson, which Ciener modified, was supposedly made in a FA version but I've never seen one or heard if they worked well or not.  I have a original SA Atchisson and have never been able get it to even fit in any of my uppers.

That said - I think the best game in town is the current CMMG units.  They've done the most work on the conversions of late.

YMMV

I need to do this before I wear mine out.  I really like the plated/stainless version I have seen. Backpage, here I come......

the weak point on the ciener kit that I have, over 15yrs old, many many thousand rounds fired, was the factory firing pin.
 the notch for the roll pin is a 90degree cut, and taken together with build up of crud in the return spring recess in the bolt (which turns the spring into a solid mass) allows the weakness in the 90degree cut to break, over time. I made a FP spring from a AR15 firing pin, copied from someone here, and it works great. and it still works great. I"d made 2, and eventually sold the second one to someone else. took about 30min to make, with a file, drill, and some patience.
 

Well, after reading a lot on how some of these kits tend to jam or simply not fire...rather than just getting the firing pin, I ordered the taccom3g.com 22RF Reliability Kit.

Let us know how it runs after you get the stuff.

Try shooting it without the reliability parts - this will give you a base line for how much the new parts help.

If it's a kit that's been used little or new - all the kits require a little bit of break-in before they run consistently.

YMMV

U.S. patent no. 4,169,329

 

Thanks for the diagrams, that's what I was looking for.

On my kit, in addition to the broken firing pin, it seemed that the recoil spring was not pushing the bolt far enough forward so it was tight to the chamber adapter (the part which holds the bullet).  There was about 1/16" of slop.  Maybe the forward action of the hammer hitting the firing pin would have taken care of this...but I wanted to order all the parts I think I'll need in one shot rather than screwing around for weeks... The reliability kit I ordered included a replacement recoil spring and their "pressure plug" which seems like it would address this looseness.

Follow up -- the Taccom3g 22RF Reliability Kit so far seems great.  The recoil spring is longer than the original, so it took out the "slop" in my old kit and tightened up the bolt/adapter interface.  Enhanced firing pin and replacement extractor went in w/o a problem.  Plan to fire it this weekend.  

I have 2 Ceiner kits.  One magazine feeds great, the other one has almost constant failure to eject.  How can I fix this?

Clean the mag by taking off the baseplate . Brand new mags tend to have grit and rough spots . A scotch brite pad will do wonders in buffing off any rough spots . I silicone or other dry lube over any type of oil on magazines

First compare the feed lips of the "good" and "bad" magazines . if the bad magazine has the lips bent the top round can be to high.
With a metal ceiner type mag you can gently bend the lips to get a loaded height of top round about the same. Very slight adjustments will have
a big affect so proceed carefully. This is usually caused by dropping the mag.

Stick the different magazines in the gun and look into the ejection port and note the height of the magazine lips.
Not the loaded round but the magazine lip itself. This height is not just the magazine lip but is partly how the magazine catch grabs the cutout in the side of the mag.

It is likely that the "bad" magazine is sitting too high and the lips are dragging on the bolt , if this is the case a couple of file strokes across the top of the mag lips with a flat file can sometimes do wonders . Once again a slight change will have a big affect so go at this slowly.

Bend or file on a magazine with careful hands , too much change is as likely to mess things up worse as fix problems. Not a guarantee fix but you have a mag that doesn't work well so what do you have to lose ?

A Ceiner mag is fairly fragile and care should be taken not to drop them . when dropped set them aside for testing before mixing them into the other mags.

+1 - good advice.  

On some of my mags - Ciener, BDM and CMMG - just a little (real little) touch with a file on the left feed lip to reduce height worked wonders for ejection problems.  

Sometimes - depending on the mag or the mag catch - the left feed lip contacts the empty before the actual ejector and causes failures to eject and/or jammed empties.

YMMV

Make sure your firing pin moves freely, when you reassemble.