Don't know if this is the right area to post but I'm getting a spikes stripped lower and a spikes complete  st15 carbine upper. What would the steps be if I would want to re barrel the rifle. Do I need to apply barrel nut grease first and let it sit? Only reason I'm asking is because someone I knew cracked their upper receiver when taking the barrel off. They said because there wasn't any barrel nut grease.

When you install the new barrel you want some anti seize on the barrel nut and then tongue the barrel to specs. Just don't use one with Graphite in it. If your friends receiver cracked pulling the barrel someone over torqued the first one on.

Ok that makes sense. Then he must've been wrong because they keep saying that the reason is because of the lack of barrel nut grease. For removing the barrel do you apply anti seize as well. What is the purpose of Anti seize? Is it the same as barrel nut grease

No as it should be on there. You can use an action block to put the upper in a vice. Geissele makes a reaction rod that goes into the barrel extension instead of applying the pressure to the upper. I guess if the barrel nut didn't break loose(after pulling the gas tube as it will block it) you could try some penetration oil. Really it shouldn't take that much to break loose.

Most use moly grease or Aeroshell for the barrel nut, some use antiseize. Torquing a dry barrel nut is just ignorant.

If it's not on there during assembly then you will not get it there assembled.

Penetrating oil may help?  As suggested.


Use an upper receiver vise block /reaction rod for assy./disassy., along with a barrel nut wrench.

Are you just thinking long term?  If buying a new complete upper, why pull the bbl?


Alot of people damage uppers during assy/disassy due to not using a receiver block/rod and vise.

Your friend fucked up his upper because he used the incorrect tool for supporting the upper while removing the barrel nut, not because there was no grease on the barrel nut threads.

If the upper is supported properly with the correct tool, you can pile on the torque with no ill effects.

I would stop taking AR build advice from your friend, he obviously has no clue what he's doing.

Barrel nut grease and anti seize will perform the same function.  Also, you can't apply any before removing the barrel nut as the threads are covered by the barrel nut.  If you use the correct tools, you shouldn't have any issue removing a barrel nut, grease or no grease.

No you would just need to use the proper barrel nut wrench, breaker bar, and solidly mounted vice to hold your upper receiver assembly for disassembly.

Ideally you want a vice block that stabilizes primarily by interlocking with the cut outs at the breech of the barrel. This will minimize torque transfer and stress to the aluminum receiver. Geissele sells their Reaction Rod as mentioned, and Magpul makes the BEV Block. There are others but those would do the job.

Also consider that you will have to remove the gas tube and gas block so you can slide your existing barrel nut off  and reuse with your new barrel. Do you have a roll-pin punch for the tiny gas tube pin? Figure out if your gas block is pinned or not. A slightly larger solid punch will be needed if it is.

When ready to install the new barrel, grease as you mentioned can (should) be applied to the threads on the outside of the receiver, and barrel nut threads. You only need a very light coat on these surfaces, if there is grease squeezing out when assembling then you need to remove a good amount because you have used way way too much. The purpose for using this grease is to act as an anti-seize applied as a preventative measure to facilitate ease of future disassembly. It is not something that is applied during disassembly such as a penetrating oil would. Aeroshell 33ms is probably what most recommend here and a small amount goes a long way.

I second the Magpul BEV block. I've got one, and for the money they are hard to beat. It has steel teeth that lock into the barrel lugs and also a fitting with an o-ring that you slip the bolt carrier over from the rear (after removing the bolt/firing pin/cam pin). Once you have it in a proper vise it's pretty damn solid. Considering you can pick one up from Primary Arms for $42.99, I'd say it's one of the best options out there. Plus you can flip it over and use it as a lower receiver block for installing triggers, cleaning, etc.

Otherwise, as others have stated, you'll need a barrel nut wrench/armorer's wrench, breaker bar and a little elbow grease. If you have a really over-torqued barrel nut, I guess you could try some penetrating oil. Never needed it, but I assume it would help. Then install the new barrel using Aeroshell grease if you want to do it properly. The last barrel I installed I just used heavy duty bearing grease... but that's just because I didn't have any Aeroshell on hand and was too lazy to go get any. I wouldn't recommend anti-seize unless you're certain it doesn't contain graphite. There is a whole debate revolving around that, because graphite can corrode bare aluminum. Plenty of people use it without issue, but I figure why take the chance.

i always use too much then just wipe off what squeezes out. what's the big deal?

mrgunsngear did a pretty good video on changing barrels. i would just recommend not using a clamshell vise block like he does, use a reaction rod or bev block like others have mentioned. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=55flerrD1jQ

Why would you reccomend against a clamshell block?  I've seen more issues/failures doing barrel nut work with standard reaction rod type devices than I have clamshell blocks.  That's why Geissele came out with the "Super" Reaction Rod which actually supports the upper receiver.

I use a Wheeler clamshell block issue free.

I also use more grease than necessary. The excess wipes off no problem.

i just thought most people were moving away from those these days. could be wrong though. i use the magpul bev block, with the carrier inserted in the rear it somewhat supports receiver.

Last couple of builds I've done included non-standard billet uppers, so my clamshell block was useless.  I picked up a BEV Block for use with the billet uppers, and it works fine.  i also noticed since it engages the barrel extension, it prevents the barrel from slipping/ canting if there's a little space around the index pin.

There is a lengthy thread on the issue of graphite in anti-seize products here somewhere on the forum, but I'll post a synopsis of it.

Anti-seize that has graphite in it will not corrode aluminum.  The anti-seize products that contain it have it in such small amounts and mixed with several other lubricating elements and corrosion inhibitors that this just isn't an issue whatsoever.  This is probably a mistaken concept that has hung on because of issues with pure graphite or products primarily containing graphite that have caused issues in extreme cases.  Most all anti-seize products available to the consumer from auto parts stores, bearing supplies, etc. won't have any issue with aluminum.  Use it with confidence and no concern.

Graphite causes embrittlement, particularly in aluminum and titanium

I will add that the last Spikes upper I disassembled was not fun, the barrel nut was really cranked on tight.  Hopefully you won't have that problem but get the right tools.  Oh I would replace the gas tube for sure.

May want to consider buying a complete new take off Colt 6920 or 6720 upper sans bcg and charging handle that are often found on the EE .  When you think yours is shot out, sell it with full disclosure and you'll likely recoup half or more than what the new/used upper cost if you don't break even, as you have to add in all the costs for the proper tools if you don't own them already.

Spam removed.

Seriously? DID YOU HAVE TO SPAM THIS ALL OVER THE FRIGGIN SITE???

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And I'm sure there are more, including this one. MODS, get him out of here.