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Posted: 2/28/2017 11:02:40 AM EDT
[#1]
I don't cheap out on anything. It's all important and needs to be dependable.
Your optic is your rifle, without it, you cannot shoot. So why cheap out and risk the possibility of it failing on you rendering your rifle useless? Optic is the last place to cheap out on. I'd rather see you cheap out on a barrel and use a decent Vortex Optic. It'll be a 2 moa gun, but at least the optic will be trustworthy. |
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Posted: 2/28/2017 11:04:42 AM EDT
[#2]
I don't go cheap on anything... Especially optics.
I would avoid the EOTech and buy an Aimpoint instead. |
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Posted: 2/28/2017 11:06:48 AM EDT
[#3]
The ammo.
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Posted: 2/28/2017 11:29:53 AM EDT
[#4]
I like to use good components, and subscribe to the "cry once" theory.
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Posted: 2/28/2017 11:40:16 AM EDT
[#5]
Cheap optics are usually shit optics. Reality.
Only exception is the red dots from PA, great dots, take a good beating and hold zero. Still range toys, imo. Buy a used Comp M 2 if you want to save money. Or an Aimpoint PRO. Just my opinion. |
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Posted: 2/28/2017 4:15:19 PM EDT
[#6]
$30 Anderson LPKs. Cheap, but good quality. Real roll pins instead of the split ones.
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Posted: 2/28/2017 4:44:17 PM EDT
[#7]
I dont go cheap on anything, I do buy smart though. Things like LPKs are, in my opinion, all mass produced by several companies and then rebranded. Trigger group specifications may change but I do not use stock triggers anyways. No reason to buy a 100 dollar lower parts kit when a 40 dollar one from white oak or PSA is the same.
Bolt groups are another area to buy a good quality at a lower price. No need to spend hundreds more on some coating in my opinion. Make sure the steel is good, the HPT and MPI testing are good, and it will likely be a quality bolt group. Buy stocks used off the EE, normally most have minimal use and you can get what you want for less. |
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Posted: 2/28/2017 6:51:26 PM EDT
[#8]
Don't go 'cheap' as in bad quality on anything. But you can go 'cheap' as in relatively inexpensive good quality parts depending on what you want for the AR. For example, do you need a $200 NiB bolt carrier group? No, it may look good and run smoother, but a good quality mil-spec will run just fine. I just finished an AR that costs me $1068 total including shipping and it came out phenomenal. It is crazy accurate. I'd be more than happy to share my parts list and what I got them for comparison.
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Posted: 2/28/2017 11:21:14 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I dont go cheap on anything, I do buy smart though. Things like LPKs are, in my opinion, all mass produced by several companies and then rebranded. Trigger group specifications may change but I do not use stock triggers anyways. No reason to buy a 100 dollar lower parts kit when a 40 dollar one from white oak or PSA is the same. Bolt groups are another area to buy a good quality at a lower price. No need to spend hundreds more on some coating in my opinion. Make sure the steel is good, the HPT and MPI testing are good, and it will likely be a quality bolt group. Buy stocks used off the EE, normally most have minimal use and you can get what you want for less. +1 to all this. |
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Posted: 3/1/2017 12:08:05 AM EDT
[#10]
You don't have to spend tons of money to get good quality. Take a little time. Grab things while they are on sale. Be realistic about your needs, and you can end up with a very good shooter at a very good price. People often say "Buy once. Cry once." While that is true to some degree when it comes to quality, it is also true that virtually no AR owner stops at purchasing or building just one AR. There will be others. Find the balance that fits your needs and you will not end up spending money you don't have to.
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Posted: 3/1/2017 12:25:44 AM EDT
[#11]
Lower Receiver. $50 lower from PSA and Anderson work fine. I have a couple lowers from Aero Precision I dropped $60 on. They all work fine. I don't really know what a $100 lower does that these ones don't do.
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Posted: 3/1/2017 8:45:39 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Lower Receiver. $50 lower from PSA and Anderson work fine. I have a couple lowers from Aero Precision I dropped $60 on. They all work fine. I don't really know what a $100 lower does that these ones don't do. The expensive lowers have coolness factor. 
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Posted: 3/1/2017 11:14:55 AM EDT
[#13]
As a LEO and armorer, I don't cut corners anywhere on my builds. Every gun I own is built for hard duty use.
Now if you are talking about strictly a range/plinking gun, there are lots of areas that you can save some money. |
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Posted: 3/1/2017 9:05:57 PM EDT
[#14]
I'm primarily a range shooter, but the two builds I have done have not been cheap. Neither are the rifles I bought already assembled. I may need them for something more serious than the range one day, and I don't want to have to say "Shit, I wish I hadn't bought that cheap part that just failed when I need it most." More expensive stuff will fail, too. It just has less of a chance of early failure.
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Posted: 3/1/2017 10:41:27 PM EDT
[#15]
I have AR's from Armalite and LWRC, but my personal builds are Spikes and Anderson lowers. One thing about AR's and the accompanying components, there's lots of competition in the market. You look and search for bargains for known high, or at least decent, parts. For example, that little Bushnell TRS-25 the OP linked can be had for $69 on sale not too infrequently instead of the $100 listed...plus you look for free shipping and no tax deals on the internet. I see lots of similar deals on identical quality components all the time.
During the last year I built two AR pistols in 10.5" and 11.5" as true "vehicle guns". And by that I mean real vehicle guns that are U-locked into the floor but provide quick access. I live in Texas where one used to be able to keep a rifle in the gun rack in the window of your pickup. I don't trust that anymore...LOL! Even though I have these AR's highly secured, I didn't want to have a lot of money in these guns in case they were stolen. There's also the case of rough, dirty treatment, where they're secured. I went cheap with Anderson lowers, PSA LPK's, PSA sub-$100 nitride barrels, Guntec handguards, AIM nitride BCG's, reasonably priced red dots, etc. These guns are reliable and durable. One can buy wisely and do your own work and save money. I like my more expensive guns and enjoy them. Still, you don't have to spend a fortune to get a good AR. That, after all, is one of the beauties of the platform. |
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Posted: 3/1/2017 10:45:33 PM EDT
[#16]
I have a cheap bipod, but that's about it. It doesn't live on any of my rifles so I didn't want to spend the money. I just use it for bench shooting once in a while. Never cheap out on optics. If you are ready to spend $200 just wait and spend $400. I bought an Aimpoint CompM4s off the EE for a great price that I used on my last build.
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Posted: 3/2/2017 12:44:31 AM EDT
[#17]
Used furniture, used mounts, muzzle devices, accessories or light usage items.
It amazes me the deals that you can get on good things the minute the urge to "upgrade" or update strikes. |
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Posted: 3/3/2017 4:30:51 PM EDT
[#18]
To each their own- but I'm shocked as to what some people spend on free float hand guards. I'm not saying the high dollar ones are worth it, some of them are works of art.
I rather spend the money on the barrel or optic. |
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Posted: 3/3/2017 9:10:14 PM EDT
[#19]
cmcque I would love to see your parts list for comparison. I am helping a budding build one now and it has been A LONG TIME since I have gotten this in depth with an AR type gun. If you are still up for sharing that it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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Posted: 3/8/2017 6:35:07 PM EDT
[#20]
Everything! I love the cheap shit.........As you may have guessed my rifle is a PTAC.............and it works just fine thank you very much.
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Posted: 3/10/2017 1:24:51 AM EDT
[#21]
I bought a ruger ar556, and the first three things I changed were the pistolgrip, the rear sight and just bought a 50dollar quad rail. I can still see my targets with irons, so I'm not looking for any optics. I'm not a Tinkerer so I bought a compleated rifle. I am thinking about a compleated lower an buy a nice upper.
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Posted: 3/11/2017 11:59:56 AM EDT
[#22]
There are some things you buy once, cry once. Optics is one of those. That $100 optic might work fine for a little, but then you'll be replacing it once the made in China label falls in your lap.
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Posted: 3/14/2017 1:46:25 PM EDT
[#23]
I go cheap twice a year... XMAS deals and 4th of july deals. Other than that I still buy the upper end of parts. I just find great deals and buy two or three things at a time. I have what the wife refers to now as an AR room... Its nice I can go in there and probably walk out with close to 5-8 new guns depending on how I set it up. I have a lot of iron sites and red dots from upgrading to other stuff on my other guns as well.
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Posted: 3/15/2017 12:13:52 AM EDT
[#24]
Lowers. Anderson's work just fine for me.
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Posted: 3/30/2017 8:12:47 AM EDT
[#25]
I have found that cheap justs costs more in the long run. Whether parts fail or you just see the light and realize that your deal was for shit parts.
Buy right the first time. I have a couple boxes of cheap shit. Can't give it away. 
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Posted: 3/31/2017 5:51:20 PM EDT
[#26]
I put on a Strike Industries extended charging handle latch because at $9 I thought it was a real value and after 1K rounds I still think the same. The Strike LPK for spares at $49 surprised me at the quality of the parts in it and I changed out my milspec selector for the selector in it because it looks to be better made.
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Posted: 4/1/2017 4:16:35 PM EDT
[#27]
There is a difference between cheap and budget...cheap is junk and budget is reasonably priced decent quality.
I go budget on most of what I buy, not super high end anything, its just not worth it. Vortex or Primary Arms optics (nothing wrong with an ACOG if you have the coin), PSA parts kits and bolts, Aero receiver sets, FN and ARP barrels, Magpul furniture, etc...all quality but not top tier priced. |
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Posted: 4/2/2017 2:11:25 AM EDT
[#28]
It depends on what the build is for, but generally you can go cheap on:
1. Muzzle device 2. Gas block 3. Gas tube 4. Lower receiver 5. LPK 6. Grip 7. Buffer tube 8. Buffer / spring 9. Stock 10. Handguard 11. Iron sights 12. Mags (milspec are dirt cheap) 13. Upper receiver And still have a decent rifle. Barrels and BCGs and optics (if you use optics at all) are areas where I personally wouldn't go cheap unless the gun is just a plinker. Then it's all fair game. |
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Posted: 4/2/2017 2:13:36 PM EDT
[#29]
If you go cheap just buy a cheaper AR and move on. However, if you choose good products and settle for the best you can afford, you will never be unhappy with your choices. Build it like your life depends upon it.
kwg |
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Posted: 4/3/2017 9:47:43 AM EDT
[#30]
I cheap out and buy quality used parts on the EE and try to utilize sales and .mil discount for everything else. Its not buying cheap parts but buying good parts at a cheaper price.
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Posted: 4/3/2017 8:01:18 PM EDT
[#31]
For a build on a budget, I would focus your money on the barrel, BCG and optics. Maybe on a nice trigger if that appeals to you. The lower/upper, mostly they are all the same if you're buying from reputable manufacturers. In fact, last I checked, Spikes and Noveske lowers are both made by the same people. If time isn't a huge issue, you can assemble a really nice AR for a great price by waiting on sales and watching the EE. Services like slickguns.com can be really helpful for finding deals. You can scoop up top of the line NiB BCGs for less than a standard BCG during a sale (example a $200 WMD M16 NiB for $140-$150 shipped, $240 Giessele SSA/etc. triggers for $170). PSA recently had a sale for a Giessele SSA-E w/ 10 Magpul Pmags for $240. Sell those 10 Pmags on the EE for $100 and you have a Giessele SSA for $140, which is a smoking deal. Also, if you're buying from a larger supply house like Brownells, be sure to google "Brownells promo codes" and see what is available (actually, it is a good idea to do that for all the sites you plan to purchase from). Don't try to buy from all one place, especially since a lot of sites offer free shipping. You'd be amazed at the quality deals you can find if you look hard enough.
So, just because you're building on a budget doesn't mean you have to settle for "cheap" parts. It just takes a little patience and some research. |
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Posted: 4/15/2017 10:25:43 AM EDT
[#32]
The lower. Anderson lower was $52 otd from lgs. Was half expecting it to be out of spec or have some sort of problems. Was pleasantly surprised.
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Posted: 4/15/2017 5:10:32 PM EDT
[#33]
Cheap parts, Centurion C4 rail from EE, Magpul STR from EE, Colt SOCOM barrel from EE (new in package), and Arms 40L from EE.
Top quality parts for a steal. Could have bought cheap stuff, no, not on my rifle. |
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Posted: 4/19/2017 9:29:14 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Lowers. Anderson's work just fine for me. The guts, like lower parts kits, trigger groups, bolts and bolt carriers, are where you need to make sure the quality is there. With optics you generally do get what you pay for. There are huge differences in optical quality and reliability that are usually price-point sensitive. Having said that, the TRS-25 from Bushnell is a proven little red dot that serves well on a plinking rifle. It is not duty grade. It has a lot of tint. It has short battery life. But, it works and is rugged enough for casual use. It is not an Aimpoint micro, MRO, RMR or my favorite, Leupold Deltapoint Pro. But, the TRS-25 I ran for several years on an AR and now on a .22LR has held up well. OP, if you get the TRS-25 be sure you get that riser to get it to the proper height on an AR. |
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Posted: 5/2/2017 1:08:37 AM EDT
[#35]
Not cheap quality but cheap on price. Anderson and PSA lowers can be found for $50, PSA lower build kit with MOE gear $130. Aim or PSA BCG $99. Bushnell red dot $99 better is Vortex $199. Complete PSA uppers from $199 to $350, AR Stoner $250 Delton a bit more. Wait for sales and look for stuff on the EE.
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Posted: 5/5/2017 9:32:43 PM EDT
[#36]
Someone else said it above but cheap and inexpensive aren't the same thing. That said, the item I always go inexpensive on is magazines which may sound dumb. However, when I can get USGI mag's for $6 or $7 a piece then that is a good reason to not spend more.
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Posted: 5/6/2017 8:43:23 AM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The guts, like lower parts kits, trigger groups, bolts and bolt carriers, are where you need to make sure the quality is there. |
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Posted: 5/6/2017 10:35:39 AM EDT
[#38]
As my dad used to say. Buy the best, fuck the rest.
All kidding aside. The stuff put out by PSA is usually good to go. If I were you. I would buy good iron sights in tell you can buy a quality optic. Once you buy this AR and shoot the day lights out of it. Then you will have a better idea of what you really want. |
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Posted: 6/8/2017 11:43:10 AM EDT
[#39]
If I go cheap on anything, it'll be the LPK. In the past I've used PSA blem LPKS, and I'm looking at Anderson for my newest. Otherwise I'll do my best to save up and buy the best I can afford, or find it on the EE for a bit less. I'd rather buy once/ cry once.
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Posted: 6/9/2017 2:00:27 PM EDT
[#40]
it depends on what you mean by "cheap". Do I buy the lowest piece of crap possible for some stuff? No, but I DO use frugality in my builds.
1. lowers... as long as you're not OCD about perfect finish and rollmarks, there's nothing wrong with a PSA, Anderson or Aero lower. It's just a hunk of aluminum and as long as they're in specs I'm happy. Just don't buy polymer lowers :( 2. LPKS or Lower build kits. I don't see the reason to spend $400 for a BCM lower. a solid PSA lower build kit or white oak armament LPKS is nothing to sneer at. 3. Flash hider. You don't NEED a $100 compensator or flash hider that gives your barrel a BJ...if you want an A2 flashhider that's under $15 ... fine. nothing wrong with it. 4. BCG... while i don't agree on buying a super cheap BCG.. be SMART about what BCG you get. you don't need a $200 BCG that's covered in liquid snot taken from a polar bear in Alaska or anything. A good mil spec BCG from Toolcraft, PSA Premium or the like will do just fine (Toolcraft BCG's from WCarmory are a hidden secret in the AR world. Fantastic bolts for about $100 shipped) 5. Charging handle. sure a BCM charging handle is cool, but a $12 mil spec one from Wise arms will do you just as well and be perfectly functional. Optics are one thing I would NOT skimp on. Again, if you're just having fun with your gun, a good vortex for $150-$200 is great, and you don't need to spend $400-$700 on an aimpoint if you don't want to. However, buying some pos airsoft red dot will do no one any favors. |
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Posted: 6/9/2017 7:01:34 PM EDT
[#41]
Quoted:
First build here. Looking over pricing of everything and doing probably too much research before I buy anything. So I'm wondering... are there certain parts that you think "ok it really doesn't make much of a difference" for when it comes to price? For example, I'm looking at Optics. Here's one for $100, that was originally close to $200. https://www.wingtactical.com/firearm-accessories/optics-sights/bushnell-trs-25-hi-rise-ar-optics/. Then here's another that's $540 https://www.wingtactical.com/firearm-accessories/optics-sights/eotech-exps2-0-holographic-weapon-sight/. To me, I'd rather spend more on a barrel and would rather get cheaper optics, but am I wrong? Are there certain things that you just consider MUST be high quality? Let me say this the Bushnell stuff is good for "RANGE USE". If you want something inexpensive that is good for everything look at BURIS or Vortex that would be my suggestion.(Two Best quality companies at lower cost IMO.) |
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Posted: 6/9/2017 9:03:53 PM EDT
[#42]
Training ammo.
I don't go cheap on anything else. |
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Posted: 6/9/2017 9:38:17 PM EDT
[#43]
right now is a good time to get into ARS you can get RRA LPKs with the 2stage NM trigger for$129
PSA lowers for under $100 a new bolt & 60 round drum for $130 , and nice lightweight, MLOK PSA uppers for $350 those will make you a damn good rifle. CHEAPis a very relative term. ARE YOU LEARNING TO SHOOT or trying to look cool 
I am a budget minded person, this is a hobby NOT A LIFESTYLE FOR ME. I have 5 ars two have no rails no slings, no optics. I will go cheap on lower receivers- I LIKE bushmaster blems I bought for$85 I will go "cheap" on triggers " as I use RRA NM/ varmit 2 stage triggers that cost under $90, but in my opinion are equal to the giselle at$240. THE RRA NM is a great trigger. 
you do not need a special charging handle. All my ARs have aBCM gun fightert CH but a milspec CH does the job same with safeties, unless you are a lefty no ambi stuff is needed. you only need a few mags to start you off. One 20 round mag is mandatory , for bench shooting I think 7 30's is a good number as a goal. you do not need a light laser or sling at all even for a beginner you need ammo a few mags a sandbag and a think blanket to lay on, if you want to shoot prone and not get filthy If you decide you want lights,lasers, slings,or fancy furniture go to the EE and use the search to find it cheap. also sell stuff you don't need on the EE I would even go as far to say that primary arrns makes a reddot that is a great optic I got mine for$90 off the EE ,as of today I'm liking it better than my aimpoint T1 also bought of theEE If you want rails go with magpul MOE forearm then attach the rails as and where you want this will be both cheaper & lighter. my 5 ars all have MOE+ grips except my precision rifle that has a houge grip. that should be a good start for you. |
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Posted: 6/9/2017 9:44:26 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I don't go cheap on anything... Especially optics. I would avoid the EOTech and buy an Aimpoint instead. to be honest ,the original eotech problem only happened if you zeroed in Alaska In Feb then jumped into Iraq in July but L3 should not have lied or tried to cover it up. |
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Posted: 6/9/2017 10:21:24 PM EDT
[#45]
lying about items issued to the mil and then covering it up is total crap. I got the full refund for me EXPS2-0 and never looked back.
At any rate, ya really only NEED one great optic. The rest (e.g. your non-SHTF long guns)? nothing wrong with running primary arms or whatever. Budget optics are actually pretty good these days. If you're independently wealthy and you want to run Nightforce and Trijicon on EVERY gun you own, knock yourself out. I presume the author isn't rich, which is why they are asking questions like this. |
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Posted: 6/9/2017 11:18:36 PM EDT
[#46]
Furniture. Maybe muzzle device but that's it.
Everything else is critical imo. |
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Posted: 6/16/2017 10:10:09 PM EDT
[#47]
I go cheap on a lot of items, but optics isn't one.
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Posted: 6/17/2017 7:45:22 AM EDT
[#48]
None...
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Posted: 6/17/2017 8:47:35 PM EDT
[#49]
Optics, never, lower parts never, barrel and everything else never UNLESS it is strictly a range gun designed to work on a KD range punching holes in paper and NEVER intended for anything else. IMHO obviously but when lives are at stake never compromise.
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