I am asking here because I can't get a reply from AA ......... I'm a new owner of an 11" basic upper. My question is 2 parts.  The front handguard retainer cap is very loose, like the gas block isn't back far enough.  So I guess thats not a question, I know enough to know it shouldn't be like that. Second question on the bottom of the gas block there are 2 set screws (the screws are in there) and when looking from the side there are 2 holes and they go through the barrel also. These holes look like they should have pins driven into them to help hold the gas block (just like on a standard A2 front sight) but the holes are just open?  And now that I'm looking at it I can see the holes in the block don't line up right with the holes in the barrel.  This confirms that the block isn't back as far as it should be.

So was wondering if anyone out there has an AA Basic upper and could take a look at theirs and let me know if they have pins in their blocks or just open holes.  


thanks for your time
GM

FYI = this isn't a bash AA thing, these issues are easily fixable

my AA upper (purchased as a complete upper) has the cross-pins installed, and although threaded for set-screws, the set-screws are removed..

I was afraid of that.  You wouldn't know what size pins they are would you?  And are they tapered?

thanks for the help

Odd. AA usually used set screws for their conversion kits. Pins for the OEM builds.
Cap shouldn't be lose.
Reach out to Cody in this sub-forum or Aro.
[email protected]
http://www.ar15.com/member/user.html?id=154241
Either will get you squared away or answer your questions with more clarity.
AA stands behind their products 100%.

pins are 1/8" dia, solid, and not tapered.  i don't recall if they were 3/4" or 7/8" length.  i thought about replacing mine with HD roll pins, thinking easier to remove for maintenance.  the original solid pins are a MONSTER BEAR to get out, i swear, SUPER-tight fit, like, a whole lot of swearing to get them out.  took me hours.  part of the difficulty is, it's difficult to jig it up to really withstand sledge hammer walloping, that, coupled with getting the fingers wacked.  gotta hold that punch perfectly perpendicular and really lay into it.  i cringe reminiscing about it.

i should just sign my name as Bubba.

Totally different animal...but the SF308 AA complete rifle I bought last year has the block held on by front and back cross pins and front and back set screws coming up from the bottom.

Sorry for dumb question put what's a HD roll pin?

heavy duty.  extra strength.  a little bit thicker construction, still same external diameter.  i was looking at the coiled spring pins.  i guess i shoulda just spelled out "extra strength".  sorry.

McMaster-Carr coiled spring pins

ETA: i just measured mine, .875" length.

Thanks for the info!!

Coiled spring pins (the type in your link) are actually weaker in shear than standard slotted spring pins.

A 420 stainless steel MS39086 heavy duty coiled spring pin 1/8 inch in diameter is rated at 2000 pounds.

A 420 stainless steel MS16562 standard tubular slotted spring pin 1/8 inch diameter is rated to 2100 pounds.

And, to install solid pin you really should use a arbor press, not a hammer.

soooooooo what kind of pin should i use on this ??

EDIT:   Never mind, I don't have a press to put in solid pins so I will go with the standard tubular slotted spring pin.

thanks for all the input

Please contact me at [email protected] asap

Cody
Adams Arms
Customer Service Manager

Cool .... just did

and me, now i feel pretty stupid.  kinda regret ever having mentioned my busted thumbs saga, but also, hope i never ever have to remove an Adams Arms pinned gas block ever ever again.  and i won't be using coil pins, and there's probably good reason for Adams Arms using solid pins.  and they are on there Rock Solid.  if, when the Zombie Apocalypse, or Armageddon ever arrives, you can count on the Adams Arms pinned piston gas block to be solid.  Thank you Cody.

and i don't have an arbor press.  i did think of how to use my hydraulic press instead of a hammer, but i couldn't figure out how to jig the darn thing with what i have laying around.  otherwise i would've.

but on the other hand, thanks to this threads contributors and the Al Gore Information Super Highway, i'm a lot smarter and wiser than i was yesterday.  which ain't sayin' much, i'll be the first to admit.

so, actually, thanks.

respectfully submitted,
Bubba

The most shocking thing about this post is that you "can't get a reply from AA". There is no company in the firearms industry that is easier to get an instant reply from than AA. Any email I have ever sent them has been answered in minutes. And any warranty repairs are just about as quick. AA has the BEST CS in the firearms industry. Cody in particular is the best CS person in the industry period!

Okay ....

As you can see from the thread AA has now contacted me. I sent emails through their website and tried calling for a few days before I came on this forum to get some advice. It's not a big deal, I was just gonna fix it myself. It appears they are going to have me send it back for service. So it's all good. Didn't come on here to bash AA, I have no reason to.