I decided to start using the AR as my 5.56 platform (0-300 yards) and currently have a LWRC M6IC SPR with a Vortex 1-4x24 for optics and a Geissele 2 stage plus MagPul ACS stock. I have nothing else on the gun except a suppressor, it's also the main reason I am using a piston gun.

Now I am coming primarily from the SCAR platform mainly because of the fact 7.62x51 is getting too expensive to use in the volume I would like and I just don't really like the 16s too much. My main questions are what things do I need to keep track of on the AR platform? Small parts and springs and the like, also how much should I clean? I have been simply cleaning it after every use at this point (about 500 rounds fired each outing so far) not had a problem yet but am unsure if I should be spraying lube in it during use?

My other question is about the precision I should be expecting, accuracy seems really good but the overall group size is prompting me to inquire what is normal so to speak. I am experiencing groups of about 1.5 to 2.3 inches at 100 in a 5 shot group with XM855 and almost 4.5 inches with 62 grain Tula at the same distance, I normally use the steel case stuff due to being able to shoot twice as much for a given amount spent. While I think this is fully acceptable for my intended use it strikes me as kinda lower than it should be when I compare it to my DI ARs and most notably the 16s, is the gun simply ammo sensitive? Haven't bothered to try any match ammo quite yet to be honest.

Finally what parts should I consider upgrading? I was leaning toward a JP buffer spring system and perhaps a NIB coated bolt to go with the carrier. I'm mostly just new to the ARs aside from long range bench rest sort of use, trying to learn about the platform more and especially in more high volume use case.

Steel cased isn't exactly known for its accuracy.  I'd say 1.5" groups at 100 yards with steel cased crap is pretty damn good.  Clean as you would any other semi-auto, probably around the 750 round count.  The beauty of the piston gun is you can push that out further not have to worry as much.  Most of the fouling is going to be restricted to the barrel.  AR parts that eventually go bad are things like buffer springs, firing pins, and extractors.  All of those are cheap.  Ejector springs getting weak isn't unheard of either.

i have the same lwrc but in a 14.7". i found it to be over gassed and am using a vltor A5 with H4 buffer to get the ejection pattern in line with DI stuff, 3 o'clock'ish.

mine has been spuer accurate, more so than my DI chrome lined barrels.

Thanks, the 1.5 inch is off a bench and was the best I could do. Thanks for the cleaning interval, will be nice to be able to go about twice as long. I use EWL or milcom stuff in all my guns and I assume that will be fine here as well.

I'll stock some of those parts as spares then, what is your thoughts on just keeping a second bolt around in one of those Magpul myad grip insert things?


Ejection pattern is the exact same as my NM ARs, right past 3 in a 4 inch pile. I assumed this is okay since it follows the pattern on my DI guns....correct? Heck, I'm not sure if the gas is even user adjustable on this!

The spr is not adjustable, the only part I keep with me is the piston cup spring since to my knowledge that is the only part that has a low round count for replacement at 3-5k. I'm at 4K and mine hasn't gone yet. I do have the spr in 14.7. Great gun and very accurate but my di's are Chrome moly so it's hard to compare accuracy with this barrel.

Nothing. Keep your normal maintenance, cleaning, and lubrication cycle.
Springs, keep an extra piston return spring on hand. Some say replace every 5,000 rounds as a measure of safety but it's not necessary.
Otherwise, all other springs and and moving parts require the same inspection and replacement periods as a DI AR



Depending on the environment factors, there's no need to relube a piston gun every 500 rounds - but there's no harm in doing it either. Because pistons keep the heat and fouling forward of the BCG, it increases the working life of the lubricants versus had they been subjected to the heat cycling and fouling in a DI rifle.



Inherit precision will be no different than a like-for-like DI gun. Ammunition will play a role in your accuracy. Steel case has never been known for it's accuracy and repeatability.
Yes, you may have to play around with a few different ammunition manufacturers to figure out which your rifle likes the best in so much as repeatable precision.

If however, you know you're a good marksmen and you cannot seem to get consistent groups no matter what ammunition you have tried, it could signal a symptom with the barrel or gun and I would call LWRC to have it torn down and inspected.



Upgrading is really a what do you do like and how much do you want to spend sort of thing? If upgrading I want parts that (a) make the rifle more reliable (b) Increase precision (c) decrease recoil.

I don't know if JP would fit all of those constraints, but there's certainly nothing wrong with their buffers.

Without getting into too much chemistry jargon, I would not recommend NiB. NiB is an inferior coating (except for the gold color - the gold color is really cool looking, but it also signifies that the coating properties are lessening. )

NP3 has a host of properties that make it superior as compared to NiB, Chrome, Melonite, etc. .

I am not a super skilled marksman BUT I am quite able for a non-trained person. (gonna fix that really soon though) My groups are on center and very consistent for a given range and ammo 95% of the time.  

I finally just said "screw it" today and went to a 25 yard indoor range to see what the dang thing is doing, http://imgur.com/a/xHwdz the first is a 10 round group shot by my dad to check left/right centering and the 2nd is a 5 shot group by me to see overall accuracy. I pulled shot 2 but I feel like the gun is about 1.1-1.3 MOA now that I finally got it on paper. According to the range finder it was at 25.8 yards exactly. My zero is wrong for my scope (requires 100 yard zero) so I am going to need to change that. If this is the current print then I need to adjust it down to correct to about 1.6 inches low at 25 yards correct?



Much happier now, need to figure out what the gun likes ammo wise at 100+ though.....going to buy the springs and spare parts recommended soon, not going to bother with coating bolt to match the carrier after I did some reading on NP3 vs the other options.

At 25 yards, the groups should be a bit tighter from a LWRC SPR (depending of course on how many rds through the barrel). Try different ammo.  

If your groups are low at 25 yards your zero is for 100 which means, yes, you're going to have to come up 1/4 > 1/2 click on your scope with the understanding that you're hosing your 100 yard zero. They will touch way high of center.

FWIW: If I only have a 25 yard indoor range to zero on, I usually leave a small piece of pink 3M Stick Pad on my scope to remind me that its been zero'd for 25 and not for 100. This way when I get outdoors to a 100+ range, i'm not wasting ammo saying "WTF" as my first shots go high and spending time dialing it back in.

Edit: My earlier comments were on the first photo. I didn't see the second photo. This is what I would expect at 25 yards and would consider to be acceptable from this platform.

Thanks for taking the time to give me some feedback, I only went to the 25 as it was indoor (normally I am outside so I wanted to eliminate all possible variables) and my original sight in was on a tree at ????? yards as I was in the middle of the mountains. I just went to the 25 to see what the gun was doing and if my desired 100 yard zero was even close to where it needed to be.