Is it just a nice creation, or an 'official' model?

The one I am interested in is the rifle in the middle, the picture was originally posted by UXB in 2005.

@UXB

Thanks

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That would be a 607. It's an official model not just something that was made up.

Awesome, thanks!  

2005?  Wow, doesn't seem that long ago.

It has evolved since then and has a correct receiver.

Yup, one of UXB'S 607'S. I think there was another thread where he corrected the lower by making it a partial fence one. There's a lot of info on the website I've posted down below.
RetroBlackRifle

Nice...

Thanks everyone!

Your in luck, lots of support here. There's a member who has a Facebook account and makes the stock, you'll need a partial fence lower, which you could make or order one from Nodak Spud. An 80% lower which you have finish off could engraved by another member called a Braceman. The hand guard is cut down, you'll need the ring which is custom made by a couple of different members on here. John Thomas does just about anything you would need. The worst part of the build is waiting on the Form 1 approval, cause it has to be an SBR with a 10.5" barrel. Without that it's not even worth the trouble. Just won't look the same. Good luck.

I agree about John Thomas. He reworked my upper assembly on my 607 and did a great job. Installed a new barrel (cut, re-threaded, and modified the gas port), smoothed out the FSB, and re-shaped the muzzle of the moderator. BTW, the barrel on a 607 is 10", not 10.5".

Colt Model 607

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you lose that half inch off the barrel?
that drove me crazy on mine.

Braceman did all my work.

Who makes the rear triangle handguard cap?
Is there a write up on how to cut the handguards?

Thanks for the info, but there is not a thing available right now from NDS, unless I just don't know the right people or something.  Looks like I will have to run a 607 upper clone for now on just a normal plain jane SBR lower.

BP,

Get an 80% lower to braceman for reprofiling as an XM lower and engraving, then send it to HKILLER for anodizing. Once you get it back, THEN do the milling of the fire control pocket. After that, use Aluminum Black or another substance to cover the insides of the fire control area. Guys SBR 80& lowers all the time. You just have to wait for the go ahead to mate the halves together.

Nodak is back ordered?!

I know - shocker!

It says backorder or not available on virtually every item they sell.  Everyone has said pick up the NDS lower in this thread.  So... what is the joke?  

I do appreciate the helpful comments.

I guess I can use it on one of my other "normal" SBR lowers in the mean time.  This makes sense, thanks!

I guess I will bump this question.  The hand guards don't look that difficult; but that rear collapsible sock- wow!

Order and get in the backorder line.

I dont think they've had retro lowers "in stock" since pre-Obama.

The other option is to buy used in the EE or GB for instant gratification and pay twice as much.

The solution is to contact John Thomas for the upper, Braceman for the 80% lower. There is another member who I can't recall makes a pretty good 607 stock. He has a FB account. You'll need an A1 grip, you could also ask John Thomas about the correct period, lower parts. Some have dimples, not necessary but a nice touch. It helps if you have the correct tools for assembling an upper, if not it might actually be cheaper to have it built vs you buying tools and building it. 

Appreciate all the help.  I was not aware that NDS is always so backlogged, never visited the site before, it was just weird how there were so many neat things listed- and nothing for sale

However, I was contacted by a helpful member with a lower available.  But I think I am going to try the 80% route...

Now to hunt deals on retro parts.  It will be like fishing, never know when they will bite or what you will catch, but the hunt is the fun part.  

To be honest, that was sent to a well-known vendor here on ARFcom to have chopped to 10.0", threaded, and gas port opened up to proper size.

It came back as a 10.5" barrel.  

Thanks to John Thomas, it was corrected. Attached File

Talk about barrels driving you nuts. Mine was 10", but it was a .750 barrel. It drove me crazy even though it was just that small area below the FSB. I finally took it apart and used the barrel for a MK 18 build...where I happened to get a Crane marked lower from none other than uxb.

Member heatnbeat makes rear cut 607 end caps, he also made me a front cut end cap for my LaFrance inspired build.  

Also as stated Braceman for lower reprofiling/engraving and John for upper work

^thank you for that info, hopefully it helps OP too!

Any chance someone can post a photo of a 607 done with the cheap plastic handguards for comparison to a chopped a1?

https://www.facebook.com/607stock/

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This is the model that always reels them in. Hook line and sinker!

Another diseased soul enters the abyss of RBRD.

This may sound like a dumb question but what do you call that upper receiver?  Is it a 607 receiver or a1 or ?  I have one on my first Bushmaster and just want to know the correct terminology if I ever need it.

http://www.retroblackrifle.com/

Try this website.

Not sure which upper you are referring to since there are multiple in this thread.

Look around at that site and it will help you determine which upper.

Yeah, but I hate photobucket.  @my65pan made an excellent thread here on how to make a 607 stock, but %$#@photobucket*&^% went full retard and lost all the pictures

I have found a few pictures of the 607 guts, but I was hoping for a drawing or dimensions/prints

The Colt Model 607 was built using both a Standard Slickside Upper (Model 604 type) and a
Standard Forward Assist Upper (Model 603/XM16E1 type).

The stock is easy now days. You just have to throw cash at it. live4nov sells very nice stocks.

The lower should be a partial fence so that's a bit of a bugger and more money. You can get an 80% reprofiled (Might as well get it engraved while your at it.) then milled out and anodized.

The barrel is next hardest because no one sells a 10" light weight barrel so if you buy a 10.5" you have to have it circumcised.

Handguards are pretty easy. You just need a rear cap. JHud makes them like the originals but I am happy with the kind like Primary Arms used to make.

I have a slick 604 upper on the one I am slowly getting together.




All this to say you really don't need drawings. Just money. Lot's of money.

I hear ya'.

Still curious as to how the actual mechanism works and what materials they used.  The stock material seems easy enough, just cut down an actual stock.  But the metal on the re-productions looks like they are using machined from flat stock parts.  I wonder if the originals used castings or forgings?  I located some pictures posted by another ARF member, and the more I study them, the more curious I become.

i haven't read one response to this thread because of OP's avatar... keep posting OP

Thanks.  I looked at this thread 3 times and said that my upper was the same until looking on your link and finally see that the uppers discussed don't have the shell deflectors.  My upper has sights like the A1, dust cover and shell deflector.  Thanks again for the link.  lots of interesting info there.

I believe that the original plates and levers were cast. I have thought about casting some made from molds of parts I have machined, but haven't yet. One big issue with this is the varying tolerances off stock bodies. They can vary up to 1/4 inch easily in width.

I have never handled an original, but have poured over original pics for hours, as have others taround these parts. I have also never seen real internals, and all the pics besides the patent drawings are just silhouettes or out of focus. A few folks have been fortunate enough to handle and measure outside dimensions of real stocks and parts and they can be found on the internet.  

I was fortunate enough to be able to handle a demil lower and learned a little about them there.  IMHO no matter how much google fu you pull out you will always have questions until you handle a real one. 

At the end of the day, with first hand experience creating and evaluating many working designs of this stock of my own making and others, along with live fire and destructive testing, I still say while it is the coolest thing ever... it is a flawed design from the beginning that can only be minimally improved with design changes. this is the reason it was so short lived along with economy and difficulty of manufacturing and installation. 

-Matt
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Thanks!  

Indeed.  OP who is that in your avatar?

Moderately retro pic for attention:
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I bet it's a casting couch screen shot lol. It's a matching pic for his name. She wants a big Polska! Lol. And for the tech forum requirement here is a retro pic.

I ordered a NDS A1 upper from Brownells- last month.  

I called on day 10, and asked what was up.  They said there is nothing they can do until it has been 11 days.  *sigh*  Guess I get to call back Monday.

Never had any issues with them before, but I am not digging their new shipping method.  I guess I have been spoiled by Amazon and Midway LOL.

My 80% are in, now I need to decide if I pick up a CNC router or send them off.  I have a bunch of form 1 cans approved, but no way to engrave them and have stalled on the project, so maybe it would be best to go with a router?  I dunno.  There is some good work being done by ARF members, but I need to have lots of other stuff done so I would get use out of the tool.  Decisions decisions...

And it is Angela White.

@A_Friendly_Manatee

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Keep the following thread in mind about Brownells 'NDS' A1 Uppers: https://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_123/712978_WE-DO-NOT-MAKE-THE-UPPERS-OR-LOWERS-FOR-BROWNELLS.html

That looked like an entertaining thread.

Did you mean I will have to re-do the anodizing since it is the wrong color or?

At this point it is a race to see who will be first, Brownells with their super slo mo shipping, or NDS with the perpetual backorder

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Yes...10" barrel but you need to allow 5/8" more for threading the barrel for the moderator. From what I understand, 10" barrel measures from the chamber to where the barrel meets the moderator. At 10", the barrel will clear the FSB just barely with no threading for the moderator. Cutting it to 10" means you will be short.

Thanks for the tip on the barrel length.  I have a donor barrel lined up, I just need to turn the gas block journal from ¾ down to .625 to match the new FSB and pin them on.  I will go ahead and contour/cut/thread/crown to the proper length and profile at this time.  Or keep buying barrel blanks until I get this right  I am shooting for the 607 with the 3 prong, I can always form 1 a moderator down the road.

But that leads to my next dumb question.

Sitting on this pile of parts, I am curious and am having trouble locating answers to this question so I can keep moving.  How do you form 1 an 80% lower WITH reproduction engravings/etchings/roll marks?  I really want to start the wait process sooner rather than later, so I have plenty of time to work on the lowers, engraving/anodizing/machining etc.

I have had form 1’s kicked back for some crazy reasons, (model number all of a sudden not satisfactory, while it was acceptable on a previous approved form 1 for instance) so I am trying to avoid that and give them exactly what they need and want.

I am ASSuming that box 4a will contain "Big Polska, Anytown, Anystate"?  since I am making/creating the 80% lower into a firearm- this is how my form 1 suppressors are filled out- or is it left blank since 80% is technically a hunk of aluminum and not a firearm yet?  

Next, 4b would be SBR, and 4g would be my own made up serial number.

But what about 4d, the model?  Does this get left blank ("N/A") since it is an 80%?  Or do you specify AR-15 since the reproduction markings have “Colt AR-15” in them?  Or would it be “MOD.07”, “MOD.07A”, or “GX-5857”, again, since the reproduction markings will reproduce this on the lower?

(and dumb question- what model would be more appropriate for the 10” barrel and 3 prong flash hider instead of the moderator?)

And that leads us to box 4h.  Obviously, “"Big Polska, Anytown, Anystate"?  has to be listed here, and can be engraved at any easily visible location, such as inside the bottom lip of the mag well funnel or in the trigger guard radius so it is inconspicuous.  But do I need to list ALL the reproduction engravings here as well?  That is my biggest hang up.  I can see the ATF getting wound up when I have “COLT AR-15” with "COLT MANUFACTURING" listed in this box instead of box 4a LOL

Those of you that created a 607 on an 80%, how did you complete your boxes?

I appreciate all the responses and answers!

BP. PM me if you want. I have info you seek.

PM sent, thanks

Stoner25 helped unravel the 80% mystery, but I wish to respect his privacy regarding his experiences with the topic, and will not post any information he provided until I get the okay from him, or if he wishes to share any knowledge in this thread that is great as well.

I am just glad I can move forward!  



I have been all over "Live4NOV"'s 607 facebook page; wow, does he do great work.  I am still up in the air on the stock.  I might try messing around with one first.  

I also found the answer to the gx-5857 vs. MOD 07 and 07A model question after doing a few google searches and looking back through the retro black rifle page and ARF posts, I will post a screen shot of a post by a "captrichardson" that seems to indicate I need to engrave 07 for the 10" with the 3 prong.

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Now, the crappy part. I have a good year wait on the NFA paperwork.  I will enjoy tinkering on this project as well as my shorty A5 over the coming winter.  I appreciate all the help the members of this forum have provided.  Also a big thanks to UXB for originally posting that sexy rifle picture that started all this

When it is done, I will return with pics, thanks again!

i just got my reply for my 607 SBR application.
after 11 months they say i have to start over from square one, fingerprints, picture, LEO sign off, everything but the $200 fee.
why?
they say I didn't use the  latest version of the Form 1.(on the submitted form it says 6-30-16, the ones the sent say 6-30-19)
redo.
watch out for that.

it's tempting to sell out and move on.