I have one last Lower Receiver to coat and Im tired of waiting on US Anodizers to accept parts.  This 177 project has been waiting just over a year now.  Everything else is here and awaiting assembly.

I have both colors of grey in bottle form as I have an airbrush I use.  I've done some smaller parts but have never taken on a part this large.  

Can I get some feedback on who out there has done larger parts, such as an upper, lower, barrel, etc with good results?  I'm most interested in making sure I get a tough hardened cure on it.  If all its going to do is chip off with every bump, then it's not worth it.

PS- I'm knowledgable on prep, airbrush use etc.  Just wondering if there are any tricks, tips....that may help me out.  One such tip I thought I read is that its a good idea to heat the piece up prior to spraying it and then baking it slowly on low heat for a cure?

Any proven advise is welcome.

Thanks

~Mark

I wouldn't use it on a retro. When applied, it feels like a glossy finish, that I used on my pinewood derby cars back then. It doesn't have the same feel/ look of anodized or Norrels. It also applies very heavily and has a thicker coating. If I were you, I would just wait for the better options. When I did a lower in the oven, I'm pretty sure it fudged that oven up for ever. I used an extra toaster oven that I had... I might have applied too many layers, though. I did 3-4, because it didn't cover the entire lower as I would've liked. Parts in the magwell have a thin coating of Aluma hyde, but have worn away a lot more. I recently touched it up a week ago, because the coating chipped away in a lot of places after 6 months of its' original spray.

Thanks endermend.  How did you apply, spray can?  With the airbrush I have a lot of control and can get the finish quite flat. I also can thin it to my liking and do thin coats with the airbrush.

+1 on the glossy.  Used it on a 870 receiver and the "high" gloss finish in combo with oil made the gun shine and slick.  Good luck

I use it often with great success, every part that I paint I put in the oven on low heat for 3 hours and it cures nicely. I wouldn't go as far as to say it is better than cerakote, but I have had good success

Edit: I have not used the grey, but I do use Fde, black, green.. and mine don't turn out glossy

I used the rattle can. Unlike other reviews, the nozzle didn't clog up on me, and I used it for months inbetween. I would defenately use an airbrush, but if you're going though all that work... minus well use norrels. It's proven to match with Nodak, and be non gloss..
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As you can tell, it's pretty damn glossy for being on a gun. Please excuse the Commie Stock, but the coating is thick... I had to use a mallet to get the stock/ grip on. It has made me use a punch to get the pins out. When the Alluma hyde peels, it starts to pull of a bunch of its' surroundings with it. For example the pistol grip area, under the stock is all bare aluminum because it all flaked in one piece.
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Near the take down pin, where the upper lug goes in... that's what one coat of the rattle can looks like, and you kinda have to build it up.

You can also see the texture the rattle can produces.

Weird, I was told to put it in on low heat for 4-5 hours. I did that and let it sit in a dry area for a week, and mines came out still shinny and a little tacky. This is the same for my other alluma hyded parts.

I've used black and grey Alumahyde on receivers. It was okay, but Norrells is much, much better. The abrasion resistance is better, the application is easier, it is harder, and even when both are thinned, it is much thinner. I use matte Alumahyde on furniture to good effect, but there is no comparison when it comes to receivers. Another telling occurrence is that when I wanted to remove it, baked on Alumahyde comes off with and Walmart paint remover. Norrells is all but impossible to remove. The only stripper I've found that removes Norrells is Dad's, and even that is difficult.

OK Im disappointed that Aluma Hyde has those flaws.  I have Light & Dark Grey cans and it wasnt cheap but it seems Norrells wins.  My upper has already been anodized by US Anodizers.  What color does Victor and crew use?  I see Light Grey Flat, Grey Flat, and Greyish-Black Flat.  

Thanks everyone I appreciate the above comments.  I'll save the Aluma Hyde for smaller parts I guess.

PS~ Wheres the cheapest place to buy Norrells?

Consider having HKILLER anodize it for you. His anodizing matches Nodak's almost exactly. I had him recently do an upper and lower for me and turn around time from when I sent it to had it back in hand was a few days shy of 4 weeks. Would've been a week less if it hadn't been for a severe storm causing flooding around and knocking out power at his shop. If I remember correctly it was $65 for anodizing per receiver and $10 to bead blast a receiver. He also has an FFL so complete lowers can be sent to him.

I have talked to Sergio and have decided against using his service right now.  He still has too much of the green hue and it wont match my upper that's already been finished.  He says he'll have things on track in a few months.  

Maybe I'll just wait.

Fair enough. I understand that want for a matching upper and lower. I went with a Bracemam 80% lower and a Brownell's A1 upper. Sanded off the NDS forge code and had Sergio bead blast the upper and anodized the upper and lower at the same time. Mainly went that route for the upper because I just couldn't wait for NDS to get uppers back in stock. I was actually surprised how closely Sergio's anodizing matched a piece of a colt crushed lower I have hanging around. I'm looking forward to him setting up his new tank for just XM grey as my next build is going to be an XM177E2. As soon as I get my backordered barrel from Brownells and I can finish my A1 build I get to start all over. Waiting for my Form 1 will be the worst part.

I'm disappointed with the FDE Brownell's..looks drab OD almost
Thinking of trying AERVOE next